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Showing results for tags 'Help'.
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Hey guys, about a month ago I bought a 1989 4.0 inline 6 that's 2WD. It sounded and seemed to run well when I test drove it, so I bought it and trailered it home. Once I started driving it around, I noticed the idle sounds worse, like it's stuttering. RPM barely changes, though. It also started to occasionally stall when coming to a stop or accelerating from stopped. I got stuck in road work and every time traffic came to a stop, it'd shut off and I'd have to start it back up. I've done Cruiser's tips 1-5 and so far nothing has made a difference. I did a smoke test in several spots and the only leak I've found so far was at the crankcase breather gasket at the back of the valve cover - I have a new one ordered. I've read that the exhaust manifold commonly breaks at the bottom weld, so I was looking to see if any smoke came out there, but I never saw any. Is there a better way to test this? Also I hear a quiet knocking that doesn't change with RPM, I'm going to get a stethoscope to try and figure out where that's coming from. So far I've replaced: Spark Plugs + Wires Distributor Cap + Rotor ICM + Coil MAP Sensor + its vacuum line Both Vacuum Harnesses O2 Sensor IAC valve Big 7 Wire upgrade I'm pretty new to wrenching and I'd greatly appreciate any help or insight. I love this little truck and hoping to get it to a place I can confidently daily drive it.
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So I plan on doing the 4wd conversion to my 1989 2wd automatic 4.0L MJ. I obviously want the cheapest route and don't mind the work needed. I guess my question is, if i found another xj within the years 87-90 (renix) does everything swap right in? besides the rear driveshaft (I know that would have to be re-sized). I also have an automatic tranny right now and keeping it would be less costly and less work than getting a manual trans but would my ax4 be a good match up for a transfer case? Or would I have to swap the trans from a donor with a 4x4 auto? This is my first big project for me so help would be appreciated! :thumbsup:
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I'm going to assume this is a fuel issue. But it’s like there’s no end to it. The truck cranks and Idles fine. As soon as you get on the road, it skipping, sputtering, and barely get 30mph out of her. First it was a fuel injector. I found I had a dead injector by pulling the wires to each listening for a change in the engine. Ok replaced it, ran great for 2 days. Then same sh*t again. Seems it was a plug, so replaced plugs and wires, again , ran good for 2 days and back to skipping. I found the intake and exhaust manifold bolts were finger tight. Replaced the gasket, And torqued everything down. You guessed it…….2 days. Then another injector, got another 2 days. Anyone else noticed the pattern here? Yea , I’m losing my patience. Fuel ballist resistor or whatever it’s called seemed to have corroded plugs, clipped cleaned and replaced. 2 days again……..over and over. The fuel pump sounds to be working fine. So wtf is going on? Also I replaced the crank sensor and I got a loud whistle almost like it has a turbo on it now. -
I have found literally 0 information about this style of alternator, and can find only a few "upgrade" alternators that range between 300$ and 700$. I will not be able to buy this. Is there anyway to switch from the old style alternator to the new style in order to make replacement easier, and act as an upgrade? (Pic related, Old VS new Style mounting)
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I have a 1988 MJ that according to VIN began life as a 2.5L. It's been swapped with a 1995 4.0L from an XJ. I need help finding the correct Air Conditioning kit to put into this vehicle. Any ideas?
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Hey guys I just bought my first Mj 89 2wd long bed and honestly don’t know what to do or where to get parts. The way I’m thinking is first change the bench seat to bucket seats, then get a lift don’t know if 3 in or 4.5 in works best. And then lastly trying to convert it into a 4x4. I’ll probably do more but those are the main ideas I have now. Any tips or tricks to help me get the process going I would greatly appreciate it. It’s going to be a daily so not looking for anything extreme, just a weekend out on the trails. Thanks
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Good Morning, I need some help with the fixing of my 1988 Jeep Comanche, I have the 4.0, and need to replace the lower bolt hole for the thermostat housing. I'm not sure if the prior owner destroyed it, but now I have to deal with it. I bought some of this steel stick stuff, and applied accordingly, now I need to tap the hole. Is there a way, preferably easy for me to do at my house, to remove the front of the vehicle? Like the radiator and grill. Thanks for your time :)
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So about a week ago my trucks pcv line popped out and got burnt on the manifold. Sigh, but I jerryrigged it together and its held up exceptionally well, until now (I think) So I turned out onto the road and the truck stays in first, cuts my throttle and starts backfiring like crazy, like I had 2 step or something. I quickly pulled off, and turned off the truck. After turning it back on it had no problems, until I got to a stop light, where it just died. I turned it back on and tried to limp it back to school (I was on lunch) and it wanted to die every single stop, it got to the point where I put it in neutral and looked like a dummy revving my truck at a light to keep it on. Well after I made it back, I turned it off, and quickly inspected it. My PCV is still good, everything looks A-OK. I turned it on and it didnt try to die even in gear. I had to go to class which is were I'm at now and I'm at a loss for ideas.
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'89 Renix 2wd Comanche with 4.0 6cyl and Aisin AX-15 manual 5 speed MFI 242 What advice can y'all offer on replacing/repairing the exhaust manifold on a 89' renix comanche? I haven't torn it all apart yet, but I'd like to be readied for the worst if it winds up as more than the perfunctory gasket replacement we're most familiar with. Exhaust fumes were noticed emanating from underneath the hood when parking my vehicle directly after 15 minutes of highway driving in heavy rain. I heard no distinct, loud, or obscene sound, but upon parking the smell of fumes was noticed as immediately as the now visible tendrils of fumes escaping on the driver's side from the crevice a closed hood rests inside. The vehicle was promptly parked awaiting its trial so as to prevent damage to my catalytic converter, the rest of the exhaust, system, vapor canister, EGR, system or throttle body. The replacement parts seem either too cheaply made, probably won't bolt on squarely, could need serious modification to correctly fit, and may require parts, such as a drill and tap; or they're strictly for a 91' + MJ/XJ though I'm in no way opposed to using the existing replacement gasket options. I'm experiencing hellacious blow-by and will be replacing the valve cover gasket and following Cruiser54's valve cover mod most likely tomorrow. As a side query what solution has worked for you replacing the air intake? -
Hi All, This is my first ever post on this forum or any forum for that matter. I have an 87 Comanche 4.0 pioneer that has a bad ticking noise. It has been doing this noise for the last 6 months I've owned the truck. I've run thicker weight oils, various additives and they did little to help. The noise is strange in that it is intermittent and only seems to get bad after the engine is fully warm. Did the rear main seal two months ago and didn't notice any metal debris in pan. It doesn't get noticably audible until oil pressure is under 40. Seems to be worse at idle(or just easier to hear) or when coming to a red light after driving at higher speeds. I have had two people listen to it and one believed it was most likely a bad lifter. The other seemed to think it was a possible exhaust issue. I believe that I do have some exhaust leak, but I don't think it could be the cause of metalic click noise. I am leaning toward it being the lifters, but I also know these engines can develop piston slap. Before I get into any fixes is there anything that can be done to help determine if the tick is a lifter, piston, or possible exhaust? What do you guys think it sounds like? I have attached a short clip of the engine ticking when fully warm. Thanks for any advice you may have. VID_20190522_091052028~3.mp4 -
I'm looking to stop the heat coming off my floor in my MJ, I want it so that theres a layer of good reliable insulation, and then some vinyl/rubber material on top instead of carpet. Does anyone have any good suggestions? Not too worried about stopping sound, just heat. -
I'm looking for a replacement rear drive shaft for my 1988 MJ Long Bed. Looking for on that is 48.5 inches. U joint broke and dented old shaft when it fell off. I'm in Phoenix, AZ. Anyone know where I could find one?
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Hey everyone! Today I had quite the extravaganza! on my way to work today I had to stop at a stoplight on a very steep hill, when I went to take off I heard a loud pop in the rear end but didn't think much of it as I thought it was something shifting around in the bed, then I noticed that every time I let off the gas I heard and odd whine in the rear end, once I got to the job site I notice that their was some fluid on the front of the Dif where the driveshaft goes into it, again didn't think too much of it as I'm at work and have other things todo, on my way to the audio shop after work I grabbed some gear fluid and filled up the quite empty Dif, then proceeded to head over the hill to get my radio installed, the whole time over the hill every time I let off the gas and tried to decelerate or coast I heard this god awful whine grind sound from the rear end and it kinda vibrated, since I was on a small 2 lane road I had no decision but to drive on and just keep going faster and hope for hills to slow down, we got into San Jose and stopped at McDonalds to grab a quick burger, and as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot their was this loud clank and I had no power and could hear the driveshaft whipping around so I threw it in nuetral at a green light hopped out and tried to push but it seemed like the front axle was still in park so I hopped under to take a look and I saw that the driveshaft had slipped out of the diff with a spindle on it...... not sure if thats normal in any situation..... so I put it back in the diff and threw the truck in 4L and crawled it to the closest street where I found out my whole diff would rotate about 7 inches up and down past center when in gear and reverse so limped it to an auto zone 2 miles away and tightened the 8 19mm bolts on the U clamps holding the axle to the frame, it helped a lot with the rotation but maybe I needed to torque them more as I'm still hearing the awful sound from my rear end when I let off the gas and try to coast, does a driveshaft come off past the last U joint and with a spindle in any situation!? I think I'm screwed and need todo an axle swap this weekend ill update with pictures in the morning when I take a better look at everything but could anyone have an idea of WTH is going on here other than a blown diff.................... -
Let me preface this with some backstory, I picked up an '86 i4, 2wd MJ for $400. It's rough, missing the bed, exhaust is all but gone, floorboards are shot, etc. I have no sentiment towards this Jeep, so I have no problem cutting it up to make this work. Furthermore, I have an opportunity to pickup an ENTIRE power-train (read: motor, trans, xfer) out of a 1980 K10 for FREE + shipping/gas to drive and get it. Were it not for these facts, I would not be even considering this project. Now that that's out of the way... As someone who has never swapped a motor before, what are some things I may not even think to research? How much cutting and firewall massaging am I looking forward to? Will it fit in my engine bay? (I think this is the short '86 that won't fit a 4.0). What are my options for motor/trans mounts? I'm sure there is a lot that goes into this that I haven't even considered, Who has pointers? And yes, I've used the search feature of not just this forum, but Google as well - I've bookmarked dozens of pages for this project.
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So I need some help. I'm helping my Grandson build his first MJ. We found a almost perfect 2WD minor rust ran great some standard issues like Steering column falling apart. We found a MJ 4x4 donor and did a 2wd to 4x4 swap and fixed the steering column. Now we have no power to the Fuel Pump. I know the Pump is good cause I can hot wire it. Ran a continuity check all the way back to the resistor block and the wiring is fine. also checked the relay and it seems fine. When we turn the key everything works but the fuel pump, If I hot wire the pump the truck runs. I can't figure out what we would have done that is not telling the relay to send power to the pump. I know and checked the connector and switch block on top of the steering column I haven't removed it yet cause everything works but the pump when we turn on the key. any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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I am a 14 year old that owns a mostly rust free 1989 Comanche short bed 4x4 5 speed 4.0. I would like to put a lift in it, but I have a limited budget. What do you recommend?
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I was told by somebody at a gas station that a Ford Ranger sport bed would fit on the short box Comanche. Could any one confirm that? I haven't seen anything about it in my searches. My bed is pretty rotted up on the sides. Should I look for a ranger bed or repair the sides? I don't have a big budget by any means. Lol. It needs the outer walls above the wheels and the inner wheel well on one side, maybe both. I was thinking for a repair that pop riveting or welding sheet metal bent/cut to shape on both sides would work nice. After cutting the rot out of course, and make them the same on both sides so it doesn't look absolutely terrible. Any thoughts?
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hi guys my name is Justen, i have a 1988 jeep comanche 4wd that doesnt have the original motor. i aint afraid to get dirty and tear it apart if i have to. the jeeps motor was swapped out in a day by the guy i bought it from it has a 2003 jeep wrangler 4 cylinder motor in it with an allison transmission, it wants to turn over but i can't get it to start at first it was the positive connectors that were loose i tighten back in and it works i had to jump the battery to get the motor to wanna turn over. i need someone with experience on what to do, i was thinking of finding another 03 wrangler and taking the motor out and just replacing the motor with that one would that be easier? any advice would help me, thank you.
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So last July I bought a house and as an incentive he was going to include his broken down 89 Comanche.(I was going to buy it regardless but I like small trucks always like the 4.0) Anyways what I got is a 89 2WD 4.0 Manual truck. I would like to get it up and running first and then maybe do a 4WD conversion and keep it a stick. I might do a slight 2-4 inch raise seeing as it'll be a trail/dump runner so need to keep it street legal. I have a little automotive experience but not much in the ways of axels/transmissions and such. I did it get where I can drive it. Had to replace bad starter and bad and wrong battery (probably what fried the starter). So it cranks every time now. I do have an issue on occasion with the transmission not wanting to go into gear opinions? Also I have a brake issue they work but the pedal is pretty much at the firewall and it isn't the quickest response. I tried bleeding them but no air bubbles and passenger front has a stripped bleeder screw that I will have to deal with as well. The brake fluid has not dropped so I don't think there is a leak but again not sure. Also runs a bit hot after shut off I heard this is common and only real way to fix is to convert to open system (already replaced tank, pump, and thermostat, helped a lot) Any help would be greatly appreciated also I will post pictures and video of it running as soon as I get home.
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Hey everyone! I'm new to this website and found it while looking for advice on fixing up my new(old) 1987 Comanche(if this isn't the right forum to put these questions on i'm sorry i didn't know :???: ), the previous owner hadn't run it in 6 years, and it spent the last 3 of those outside. it has minimal surface rust but the body was spray painted a vomity green, i plan on changing this in the future but at the moment its not important. my first goal is to get it street legal, the brakes and tires are being changed and i would like to clean out the entire engine bay as well as change all the fluids if i have the time. what i was wondering is if any of you guys think i should check anything else for possible safety hazards or any tips/tricks that could help when dealing with a Comanche, or any project car tips in general (This would be my first one and i'm very excited) also, how would you guys go about cleaning an oily and greasy engine bay/firewall without damaging any other components p.s. the Comanche runs, but a little poorly, hopefully refilling fluids and cleaning/replacing hoses will fix it any help or advice you could give would be great, Thanks a lot
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Recently acquired a 2004 chevy trailblazer it has 4.20L inline 6, locking rear end (g80), 4L60-E, and stock transfer case. It was t-boned passenger side impact,side runs and drives straight. What I am curious has anyone swapped these components(any or all) into their jeep comanche or cherokee and what were the problems that they encountered. I would definitely like to put the locking g80 rear end under the manche for sure, also the trailblazer's rear end is a coil sprung 5 link, which could be a huge upgrade. Swapping whole drive train would be most ideal, as the i6 is rated around 275 for both torque and horsepower. Thank you guys in advance for anything you might have to say to help or direct me to help. -
I've been looking to get a lift for my 1990 mj the only options I've seen is rough country rro and runic one express. Ive been thinking about the 4.5" rough country because I don't really wanna go spring over axle mainly because I don't have a good welder but I'm very disappointed with the lofts because they don't come with new leaf springs and the 4.5 rough country doesn't come with a track bar or drop pitman arm or quick disconnects. What are you guys running. Any good lift kits out there that you can't find easy? I have hers people using hell creek but I can't find a kit for the mj when I go to there website it just shows 1/2, 3/4 ton trucks or s10 any advice for a good lift would help me out a lot. Thank you
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I just picked up a 2wd 88 eliminator and id like to do a 4x4 conversion. What all will i need to do to accomplish this task? I believe all i will need will be a front axle trans and matching t-case all linage involved a bell housing and a front driveshaft. Now this is my plan: I'd like to do a Dana 30 with 4:10 gear ratio, a bell housing from a late 93+ Cherokee with the external slave, an AX15 trans with matching NP231 t-case 23 spline, a new center console to account for the 4x4 shifter lever, and a custom front driveshaft. Now am i able to keep my original rear axle or will i have to swap that as well, And if i can keep it how can i change it to make it work with the 4:10 gear ratio i'm seeking? Let me know if i'm missing or forgetting anything. I'm also looking to give it a 3"-4.5" lift. With that lift what size tire would you recommend? I'm thinking of running 35's. :driving:
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I need the longest one of the three. Despite my best efforts I manage to put it in the wrong hole and broke it trying to get it out. Shipping on 72687.
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I noticed a few days ago my brake lights have not been working for some reason. But I have taillights or running lights (whichever you prefer) and they are nice and bright. I have been over the sockets in the back before I had inspection a 6 months ago and cleaned them all up to make sure I was getting good connections. they worked really nice up until a few days ago. I only know they stopped working because I always check to make sure they work when I'm driving down the road. not sure why I do that but you never know what weird stuff happens in a Comanche. Anyway hopefully someone can point me in the right direction please. Thanks!
