All Activity

Ohhh. I mean they go on they just don't blink. I'll have to try flipping them around

With your lights not working lol. They more or less go in one way. Because they aren’t like incandescent bulbs they only have a one way negative and positive connection.

I think so? How would I tell what the right way is

The lights do work but they just don't blink. I already did put in a led flasher relay as well.

I mean I’m sure we’d all like to see most of the panels remade, no?

It’s going to the dump in the next week or so if nobody wants it

Did you put the LEDs in the right way?

1987 Jeep Comanche Pioneer pickup. Inline 6 cylinder. 4 wheel drive, short box, non smoker. I am the original owner. Never been abused or off road. Clean title and plates are up to date. Low 150,879 miles. Has some rust, leaks some oil. Excellent interior. Automatic transmission. Runs good and drives fine. Located in West Des Moines, Iowa. Asking $2500.

Contact him through his Facebook Group Big Johnson Jeeps. Where are you located? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't cut anything yet. Just unplugged at the firewall and pulled them out. I don't think I even need the jeep computer for any thing in the cab, correct? So I don't need anything for it. I left everything hooked up in the cab and I just need power to the fuse panel so all of it can work as it did. I'm basically stripping out all the jeep engine wiring and unnecessary stuff out there. I'm hopefully going to have a Holley doing engine management and everything 1990 Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Ha, well, if you didn't cut it already it would be a lot easier! There are a lot of duplicate wire colors on the bulkhead connector and the wire colors change slightly through the years. What year is your Comanche? There is one red or red with a white stripe wire that powers the headlight switch and one green wire that powers the ignition switch (and gives 12v switched power to everything else). Both need to be connected to constant +12v. I think that's just about it for wires going in. There's a dark green wire coming out to energize the starter solenoid and a yellow +12v ignition wire f

When you say the blinkers aren't blinking, do they not come on at all or do they come on but not blink? If it's the latter, you need a new flasher module. Change the other lights back to the known working bulbs, that way you can eliminate if it's the new bulbs or if you accidentally messed up the socket or something.

I would love to see the frame caps that go over the floorboards remade...

Ok, for this LS swap I took out all the engine bay wiring up to the plug at the firewall. Kept all the wiring in the cab for lights, gauges, heater, doors, radio and whatever else. And the fuse panel I just want to know how to get power to the fuse panel to use all that stuff without the stock wiring from battery and starter and relays. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I'd settle for someone remaking the handle.

The best thing to do is eliminate the distro block. Connect the front lines together. Run a line to the rear with an adjustable brake valve. The distro block has small orifices in it which limit front braking.

I know. I used to work for them. My friend's dad invented the original Torsen. Originally called the Dual Drive Differential. They made me a pair for my Nissan Patrol about 40 years ago. My demo vehicle for the diffs was a 76 Cherokee Chief with Quadratrac. I'd like to see a pic because they started using the Torsen name on other diffs as years went by.

All of them aren't working and I did change to a led flasher relay. Also passanger side blinker and drivers marker aren't working

Are you just dealing with the rear blinkers not functioning or all of them? Did you change out your blinkers in the fuse block? I had trouble when switching to led had to buy an electronic flasher to replace the thermal. Led lights won't draw enough current to heat a thermal blinker. What 2 lights up front are not working?

Finished putting led lights in all the way around and now I'm having problems. When I finished the rear I realized Two lights up front aren't on and once again my blinkers aren't blinking. But the brake lights work. I did re do the ground in the taillight maybe I just didn't do it good enough?

Is it bad that I would like to see lenses and a tailgate to see these ridiculous prices just crumble!

So I have a 87 MJ with the factory brake system with rear height sensing valve. I have install a 3" lift in front and to balance the rear I installed Air shocks. I'm going to keep the rear drum brakes. I need to replace the rear brake lines, could I still eliminate this valve and connect the rear lines together and cut the sensing line and install a plug at the block without upsetting the braking system? Mike