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What all came in the lift you got? At that height you'll want: - Longer lower control arms to push the front axle forward and re-align the pumpkin with the t-case. (uppers aren't necessary but recommended) - Longer track bar to re-align the axle side to side. - extended brake lines - sway bar links like you mentioned - check your rear driveline angles and make sure you don't need a shim. I needed a 6* on mine but that was with a different axle as well. - bump stop appropriately to avoid damage It's a good idea to just generally look around under the truck and see what all looks like it would get tight when flexed out. You can also flex it to check clearances and make sure everything is long enough and there isn't contact anywhere. Also I wanted to mention this just to clarify, lift doesn't affect the need to regear. Tire size is what causes the need to regear.
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Lifted my truck 4.5 inches. Wonder what all would be needed or help with the lift. I'm not looking to regear or anything mostly a daily driver and sometimes in the woods. I know I'm needing sway bar links as of rn. Any help is appreciated-Thanks Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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I'm wondering if I need a Tcase Drop or SYE or Both. 1990 4.0 with D35 4.5 Inch Lift & 285 Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
- Today
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The 100$ Ram Charger, plus ferrets
Wiggilez replied to Wiggilez's topic in Your Other Ongoing Projects
as of today the truck is registered and insured, took it for a 70k joyride around town and it seem to be doing fine, also in other news the ferrets seem to be enjoying the cooler weather. -
Fuel gauge will stay at last reading for sure (spent a lot of time trouble shooting that gauge). Not sure about the others, I thought the tach, possibly voltage reset and the others stayed put. Might have time this weekend to work on the old jeep a little, if I do I’ll check how the gauges work. I agree, I don’t think the cluster is getting power, which would be the fuse box or maybe ignition. Our 90s HO XJ did a weird thing where once or twice it’ll run but none of the accessories turn on. Can’t recall if the gauges worked or not when it did this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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That's sad to hear. My thoughts are with the family. I've worn my seatbelt religiously since I started driving and evidenced by my latest forum topic, they certainly work.
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nice, NV3500 or 4500 it is, thanks for the help gents...
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When I was 18 I took a car airborne across an intersection, THROUGH a telephone pole, and then minus the rear axle across the road into the the left side ditch. 6 people in the car including myself, nobody wore their seat belt, no injuries other than a bloody nose. (The car was a different story). I figure I will only ever hit the jackpot once in my life, and that was it. I have been wearing it religiously ever since.
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I got home from an offroad trip, tossed my girlfriend into the camper, unhooked the car hauler and drove south for 9 hours to a little podunk town (pop of 1700) right in the middle of the path of totality. Got there at 2 am, went to bed, woke up at 8 and found myself blocked in. About 20,000 other people had the same idea. Some of those had some seriously high dollar equipment with them, though. Not a cloud in the sky, experienced totality for a bit over two and a half minutes, and it was awesome. April 8, 2024 will be much closer to home, with the edge of totality being 7 miles from my house.
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Sent you a text!
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Thanks for all the tips. I'll run codes and check some things out. I'm used to the YJ where the tank does need to drop out to get to the pump. Thanks for pointing out thats not the case with the MJ. I should have thought before I typed.
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I have one you can have for free, but I'm in Strasburg, OH, 5 hours from you. I can throw in a lwb bedliner also...
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make of it what you will......... http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148610
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You normally don't get a CEL even with codes. Do check the codes first. https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/ FWIW, I think it's ignition. Sync sensor or CPS maybe.........
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Pretty sure the fuel pump was the same for Renix and HO, just everything else back there was different. If your truck is a '91, it has a check engine light. Even if it hasn't been triggered (I.e. illuminated), there could be stored codes. All it takes is rocking the ignition key back and forth to check, don't need a fancy scanner or even to start the engine. Unless of course your CEL was illuminated for so long the bulb burnt out... or someone pulled it... But you may be on the right track with the fuel pump. Mine (in my '91) exhibited similar symptoms very occasionally for a year and like, 10,000 miles, before it started becoming painfully clear the pump was dying. But check codes and try to look at the ballast resistor before you shell out for a new pump. And if you do end up needing a new pump don't get the $#!&ty Delphi one... It doesn't fit in the holder and the adapter kit is garbage... I had no choice but to use one on a roadtrip (took me 1000 miles at no more than 2000rpm before I found any pump) and with some creative hose clamping I made it work... But within two weeks it obviously popped out of the holder cause now I run out of gas just below a half tank.
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you don't necessarily need to drop the tank to pull the pump. access is on the side. I guess it's also possible that the sock is getting clogged from something in the tank.
- Yesterday
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Replace the fuel pump relay and see what happens.
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If I remember correctly, the 84-86 cluster gauges didn't return to zero when the engine is shut off, they stayed where they were. When the ignition was turned on later for a restart, they then moved to display the current reading -- which would be zero for oil pressure and cold (100) for temperature. I don't think you have a gauge problem, I think you have a no power to the cluster problem. Are you getting a reading from the volt meter?
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That generation Ram had NV3500 and 4500's in them, light vs heavy duty. I'd ASSume at least one of them went behind a 318/5.2
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I didn't check codes, but there is no check engine light. Maybe somebody can verify, but I don't believe there will be any codes on an HO without a CEL. Here's how my last 20 minutes went: My son and I gathered up a fuel pressure gauge, and a vacuum gauge, went over to the MJ, popped open the hood, started it, and within the time it took me to walk around to the front, it died. The same exact way it died before, gently. The only thing to note is that just before it died, I heard a fairly audible low hum coming from the transmission area or rearward. Then it would not start. I verified there was no fuel in the fuel rail by attempting to extract it via the pressure test port. I figured for sure this is a fuel pump, or fuel sending unit issue. I fiddled for a minute, tried a couple of starts, then it started right up. I wasted no time getting gauges hooked up. Fuel pressure read 32 PSI with vacuum, 41 PSI without vacuum. Vacuum was 18 in-Hg. These are very similar numbers to those of my last tests, on 2017-06-19, about 200 miles ago. After the engine settled down from being stressed, I let it run for about five minutes. It ran nicely, without issue, the whole time. Towards the end, I stuck my ear near the gas tank, and I swear the fuel pump is whining at a high pitch. It's always whined a bit during operation, but this was subtly different. Higher pitched, a bit louder than what I've been told is normal. So, I'm thinking it's a fuel pump issue. I have an extra fuel pump in the garage that only has about 200 miles of use on it from a 95 YJ. I have to check whether that will work, it's an HO pump. Not sure if it's a fit for the sender, though. Does anybody think I'm barking up the wrong tree? Or should I run more tests before dropping the tank? Thanks.
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X2 on checking for codes. I'd also take a look at the ballast resistor. If it happens bypass it and see what's up.
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ok the gas is at the middle and the oil dosent move its at the low end
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5.2's definitely didn't get ax15's
