Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. JHerm23 JHerm23 joined the community
  3. kriswinner started following Tonneau Covers
  4. kriswinner
    Can you post pictures of this cover? I have the cover from Downey Products specifically designed for the Comanche. Love the way it looks, but it needs to be unsnapped whenever you need to access the inside of the bed. There's also a rear cross bar that needs to be removed at times. A folding cover that looks similar would be an improvement.
  5. EvilMJ started following 4.0 with 4.2 rods and crank
  6. Today
  7. Pete M
    good find! I'll move the whole thing over and merge this with it
  8. rylee144
    Good eye!
  9. fiatslug87 started following WTB - SWB Bed Rails, 1JTMW6416HT067314 and Street Comanche #7
  10. fiatslug87

    1JTMW6416HT067314

    fiatslug87 posted a topic in 1987

    Street Comanche #7, dead and gone but parts live on with @Strokermjcomanche
  11. fiatslug87
    Just so we can keep track. 1JTMW6416HT067314
  12. Shharks
    https://www.tonnopro.com/just/tonno-pro-42-304-tonno-fold-tri-fold-soft-tonneau-cover
  13. Shharks
    I have this one over ten years now.. Love it https://www.tonnopro.com/just/tonno-pro-42-304-tonno-fold-tri-fold-soft-tonneau-cover
  14. fiatslug87
    Just an FYI, those do not seem to be the same as the OP's picture (OEM rails), they sit up much higher and do not have the "cut-outs" in the supports.
  15. Shharks
    Had this one for 10 plus years, tir fold, no drilling holes, Fits great! https://www.tonnopro.com/just/tonno-pro-42-304-tonno-fold-tri-fold-soft-tonneau-cover
  16. eaglescout526
    When I pulled the pump, there was some fluid still left in it. I turned it by hand and it was tough, but it also had sludge in the bottom of the reservoir so that could be the culprit like SoCal and I were talking.
  17. rylee144
    Take a left into that culdasac and it's down on the right
  18. derf
    You mention that you want an AX-15 and that you may possibly take out the Peugeot after it's in once you find one. You just can't find one for sale at a reasonable price right now, correct? The direction I would go would be to wait and do the swap later. Keep saving up cash, a little at a time, until you have the budget to buy the AX15 you want and do it right. In the mean time, put the Peugeot up for sale and get as much as you can for it to fund the AX15 budget. That requires some patience but in the end it'll be worth it. I've done more than one "hey this is a cheaper route but not really what I want" swaps in various projects. It never ended up being what I wanted and I ended up throwing a bunch of money away trying to make it right or scrapping it entirely and starting over. Or both. The Peugeot would work and scratch the itch for now. But you'll keep itching to do the AX15 swap. And it'll bug you until you get it done. If it was just a "I want a manual, don't care which" itch, the Peugeot would be fine for a stock or near stock build for driving around and not abusing. But since you say you want the AX15 long term, that's what I'd hold out for.
  19. rylee144
    Looking at those cars that might be the only one that runs. Money talks tho
  20. rylee144
    It's near washington national golf course. Here is a screen shot of the intersection to google. It's just east. It's the red truck in front of the house . I did the street view looks like a shorty. Google maps is creepy haha
  21. AZJeff
    Most PS pumps are incredibly simple devices inside. They have a series of vanes attached to a central hub that are spring loaded to rub against the outside of a cylindrical cavity. The vanes are often made out of some sort of plastic-y material, so they don't wear the inside of the cavity. The vanes will drag when dry, but when the pump is filled with some sort of oil (PS fluid or ATF), the drag will drop down, but will never be totally zero. (You cannot spin the shaft and expect it to continue to spin more than a quarter of a turn after letting go.) Put some PS fluild in the pump, and see if it's any easier to turn.
  22. OldManComanche
    THERE ARE PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD WHO CAN TEAR UP A BOWLING BALL WITH THEIR BARE HANDS. If this is you, then I would avoid the BA 10/5. Drain the oil in the BA and look to see if there is a bunch of "sparkles" in the oil (chewed up bearings/gears). If it looks good, then it's your time/money, so do what ever you want to. GOOD LUCK
  23. PFCLeist
    Not bad, I'm looking into buying a 3d printer myself. It'd be nice to just "make" any small part I need. I've seen them as high as $10K. $180 is the cheapest I've heard of, and it appears to do the job pretty well.
  24. Ls2xjcomanche
    Depends on the neighborhood lol... it’s worth a shot, thanks!
  25. Minuit
    Very nice work. As a side note: for 1991 and newer radios, the top and bottom covers have to come off before the faceplate can come off, but other than that the process is similar. I'll be honest: I very rarely see capacitors cause serious issues with these radios. I measure every capacitor that I remove from these radios, and almost all of them still meet their capacitance and series resistance specs even after 30 years - they generally used very high quality capacitors in these radios. The corrosion on top would raise alarm bells for me too, though. If I were working on this radio for a customer, I'd probably want to at least remove the capacitors that show corrosion around the top and measure them with my LCR meter - but at that point, you're halfway to replacing them anyway. On the very similar RX-170, those three capacitors are part of the audio amplifier circuit. A bad cap there may cause audio problems. The 1988 radios are extremely well made and can be taken completely apart without de-soldering anything, but the downside of that is that there's a ton of connectors. It may be a good idea to unplug all of the various connectors, spray the contacts with contact cleaner, and plug them back in. Also, the solder joints can be trouble, but it's not as much of a problem on '88 models as it is on the others. As a side note: on certain models of these radios you'll see brown stuff around the capacitors. That did not leak out of the capacitor; that's glue. Still good to get rid of it, because it can turn corrosive. Anyone who's worked on Japanese-made audio equipment from the 70s and 80s will no doubt be pretty familiar with the "brown death glue" - this is the same stuff.
  26. SoCalManche
    Yeah, dumb question on my part. I took the belt off and spun my current PS pump, and it spins freely. The "new" one has some friction unfortunately.
  27. rokinn
    The top end Fram is supposedly decent but it's doubtful the shop put one of those on. You can pick up a Napa Gold one (what I would do) when you get the volvo cap there. I suggest taking your truck to a car wash and cleaning out the engine bay. The closer the better so your engine isn't too hot or let it cool for a bit before. Use the spray that comes out of the nozzle without pulling the trigger for the top side. The bottom you can use the full pressure. It will be a lot easier to track your oil leaks that way. I do this periodically with no problems. The one on the drivers side looks to be dripping off of the power steering hose. You can try tightening the hoses, or it could be coming from the cap. Just keep it full. The other side could be the oil pressure sender, the distributor, iirc there is a seal for the oil filter housing, or it could be the rear main seal as well. Or all of the above, as it was with mine. Leave the rear main for last. Could be a leak coming from the oil filler cap also. They all tend to migrate to the back. The oil leaks don't appear to be huge however so can wait also so I wouldn't worry. Check your oil level regularly when on the road. Take some power steering fluid with you also. Good to have another Comanche owner check things out with you. If you come through Loveland, CO give a holler.
  28. Dzimm
    Yes as Money_Pits said, it is called a Derecho. It's straight line winds that get really powerful. They were recorded up to around 100mph sustained in many places and some areas saw higher than that. An F1 tornado is in the range of 73-112mph In some areas speeds were real darn close to F2 tornado speeds. Literally looked like a hurricane, but came quick and unexpectedly like a tornado. We knew rain was coming but had no warning otherwise, sunny skies and within 2mins it was at full force, the whole thing lasted 45-60mins.
  29. 1989commanche
    I ordered this one. Came in today. Looks like it has never been used. I’ll try it out this weekend if I can get around to it. I’m just hoping I have the right cartridge to get readings.
  30. rylee144
    Not sure how you feel about knocking on a door but i saw a comanche yesterday that appeared to be just sitting. It has a set of bed rails on it. Not sure if it's a short or long bed. Coudnt tell from the highway. It's in Auburn. Let me know if you want the address
  31. jazzyjeeper
    Cool! Will dm you with my contact info.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...