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  2. Just bought it and it needs frame repair!!!

    Thanks for that man! That explanation helps a lot. Would the repair pieces be welded in flush, or overlap the frame? I am one of the worst welders you will ever meet, but luckily there's a guy in town who's a wizard at it. I'll give him a shout tomorrow with those details and see how much he'll charge me. The funny thing is the other side looks dang near perfect, and I can't find a spot of rust anywhere else on the "frame". But like you said, that doesn't mean it's not there.
  3. Np207 swap

    Shoot!! Awesome!! I'm gonna make em an offer on the drivetrain and hope for the best!! Thank you Pete and Eagle so much!! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  4. Today
  5. Just bought it and it needs frame repair!!!

    That's been gone for a long time. Check the other side. It's probably similar. Even if it doesn't look it. I'd take the bed off, drop the tank, pull the rear axle, pull the brake lines off the inside of the frame, then do some exploratory cutting on the bottom portion of the frame to see how far the rot extends. Make sure the spring hanger is still solid, or it will need to be replaced too. As a repair I would template the whole frame rail that is affected in cardboard, being sure to extend 2" past any area deemed to be rotted. Remove all rotted metal, clean to bare all exposed metal within the repair area and a couple inches past it. I'd cut the repair pieces out of 1/8" flat bar, ending the repairs in a point. I would weld it on with 3/8" plug welds pitched 1" from the edge of the repair on a 2" pitch, and then depending how I felt I would weld the entire perimeter or do 1" stitches. The bottom would also have to be welded in, which I would definitely do as a continuous weld to the two side pieces. Use weld through zinc primer on all surfaces that are to be covered over. If you need it to not look like it was repaired, I would do similar, but I would go 4" past the damaged area and plug weld it with a staggered pitch and do the exact same repair on the other side (if it needs it or not). I could take an example picture of other repaired/reinforced areas I guess. This gives a reasonable idea of acceptable standard practice while welding to the uniframe, even if it is a ZJ/WJ reference. It's not totally right, I believe Kraqa will admit that if you corner him on it now, but there's nothing in there that won't work.
  6. My Jeep named: RUNS

    if it wasn't for the Texas plate i'd guessed you were Canadian
  7. Just bought it and it needs frame repair!!!

    One more.
  8. Just bought it and it needs frame repair!!!

    Here's another view of it.
  9. Hello everyone. I've been looking for a Comanche for years and finally jumped on one this last weekend. Though I thought I gave it a thorough inspection, I messed up. I either completely missed the frame damage/rot, or did it myself hauling it back 4 hours on a tow dolly. There's a hole in the bottom of the frame right in front of the driver's side leaf spring mount. Looks as if the mount is pushing up through that hole, but it's hard to tell. What do you guys think? Will this be easy enough to repair? If so, what are your suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  10. 1986 Comanche 4.0/5speed/4wd/LB - Queens NY

    Still available.
  11. carpet

    Just installed carpet last week. I must say it takes some time. The carpet is oversized and had to be trimmed at least a few inches around all edges. I bought carpet with the mass backing. It’s not really shape friendly shall I say. I had a buddy with a heat gun but the carpet I feel was still too thick to make any difference. All I can say is patience. I’m probably about 80% ok with the outcome.
  12. youngfred's 91 Eliminator

    Yeah that cleaned up very well! Nice truck, great find! Congrats!
  13. Np207 swap

    No, it says more than that. A 207 or a 231 would not have a "Hi Lock" and a "Low Lock" plus another position. That "4WD" position is UNlocked 4WD, which means all-wheel drive. That looks a lot like a 242 shift gate, and that's not surprising in a Laredo. Grab it.
  14. Np207 swap

    Thank you for the response sir! It just says 4wd but hard to tell with the glare lol Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  15. Np207 swap

    the 207 is an 86 and earlier thing (or really early 87 but rare). what's the green lettering in the middle of the shifter? between hi-lock and N. because it looks like that's a 242 t-case (with all-wheel drive) shifter gate.
  16. what size clutch

    I don't understand the question. any autoparts store should be able to look it up for ya. Here's Autozone's version: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-disc-plate/brute-power-clutch-disc-plate/329628_12536_0
  17. Np207 swap

    Okay all, I'm going to give this a go on here since it doesn't seem as if it should be in the tech forum... I came across an 87 jeep xj Laredo in the local junkyard (which I was actually extremely surprised to come across) and originally just needed a few small things but when I asked about the 44 rear axle, guy said 250-300 for the axle then the next day or so when I went back after the lien had finished I asked how much for the whole thing and he said he woyld do the whole jeep for 300..... This had me thinking that for the price I could 4x4 swap the mj, part out the rest, and maybe break somewhat close to even. Although after inquiring on FB and people mainly suggesting to get a np231 instead I figured I would ask here since I always get awesome and useful answers and responses. If it IS the np207, would this be still a good idea to swap in? Both are 87s and actually really like the idea of staying the same year. I wouldn't be wheeling the truck really just an occasional trail ride but mainly dd in snow and recovery once I move to Colorado. Can anyone provide some input/advice/ideas please?? Any info/help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks all! Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
  18. Yesterday
  19. youngfred's 91 Eliminator

    ... I am glad that I did not, just-put-gas-in-it. The fuel tank had toxic things, floating about. Dark, shiny, smellly, hack-saw!!! I got rid of it and got a new one. Here it is, already in: *I'm going back in, because the vacuum hoses require di-rection/attention. youngfred
  20. carpet

    I am installing new carpet in the truck and am having issues with molding the carpet at the edges. I have tried a heat gun but its not doing too good. I have also heard of steaming the carpet? Has anyone tried this? If so tips would be great or wear to rent one. I have searched the web and youtube but have come up short. Thanks as always.
  21. EGR Valve ???

    well i have to hook up the charcoal canister to something so i guess i will do it like this run vacuum line from here: to here: then i got to figure out how to get a timing tab on the motor so i can set the timing right with a light-gun and of course see it it still over heats or if the new head gaskets fixed the problem
  22. NP 231 difference

    Read this it talks about the no neutral......it is easily modified by grinding the shift plate https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np231/
  23. NP 231 difference

    It applies vacuum to the 'motor' on the CAD actuator. And yeah, to a vacuum switch to turn on the 4wd indicator light. You can just leave it unplugged if you don't have CAD. No idea about the comment that it doesn't have a true neutral, AFAIK all 231 cases use the same shift cam and have a neutral position, but I could be wrong since it isn't something I've ever needed.
  24. NP 231 difference

    Thought all the vacuum port did was light up the dash? So the port actually does something more then that?
  25. NP 231 difference

    Wranglers still used vacuum switches until 1996 so this must be a YJ case. It doesn’t have a true neutral in it so if your MJ still use the vacuum system then you can use that, however if yours don’t, don’t bother buying it.
  26. Project "Hosehead" 1988 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 LWB

    Working on some photos now...
  27. Poly Transmission mounts

    $80 plus $13.60 shipping
  28. Poly Transmission mounts

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