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  2. So my temp sensor on the new MJ is broken. I can pull the sensor apart and it doesn't go above 110 on the gauge. I've been searching around and cannot find the proper sender. Mine seems to be the plug type but I can only find a screw on type for gauges. The plug type only shows up for the idiot light. Attached is a picture from RockAuto. Am I missing something or does my sender indeed have threads even though it appears to be a plug?
  3. Today
  4. FrankTheDog

    Towing

    CJ 5 weighs a lot more than a CJ2. MJ weighs a lot less than a K20. No comparison. I’ve flat towed a lot with to light of vehicle and you have to be very careful.
  5. Siopposition

    Free '89 4.0L, B/A 10, & 231 T/C -- anaheim,ca

    Thank you for the update tho. And I just saw ur m PM too. Sorry bout that Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  6. Siopposition

    Free '89 4.0L, B/A 10, & 231 T/C -- anaheim,ca

    Go for it. I was thinking about it. But between my truck being out of commission until next week and the fact it's a 10 hour round trip drive for me....I'm gunna pass. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  7. jdwillys

    Towing

    Thanks you, very good info. It's my buddy's cj5. There is a Jeep show this Saturday in Yardley PA,( Jeeps at the Farm). His F250 broke down so he can't tow his Jeep. I will tell him we'll grab a dolly. That's the route I will do. The only prior experience I have with flat towing was years ago with my Chevy k20, and my cj2a on the back.
  8. jpdriver1

    Free '89 4.0L, B/A 10, & 231 T/C -- anaheim,ca

    mileage 172,913
  9. Pete M

    Towing

    I've flat towed a handful of times and I just don't like it at all. the towed rig fights the tower far more than any trailer of dolly I've experienced. having said that, I've done it successfully. slow way down before every turn. I mean, like a lot. try not to brake at all during the turn if you can help it. a tow dolly will put some weight on the back of the MJ and some of them have brakes it's my preferred method.
  10. FrankTheDog

    Towing

    If it rains slow down or even better stop because it’ll push the rear of that MJ right around like nothing on a turn. There is no weight in the back of an MJ.
  11. So in an act of hilarious foolishness with almost no planning on any good reason as to why, nearly one week ago to the hour I set out on a mission to collect another MJ. I came home from work, did a full brake job on my ZJ, and around midnight hit the highway for a seven hour drive. It took me just over eight, but there was a nap in there somewhere. Then I ate breakfast, reassembled the exhaust on the ZJ not once but twice, then drove through 100°F heat with no a/c another couple hours, winched the MJ onto the trailer, and hit the highway headed homewards with way more weight than I should've been pulling. But we made it over the continental divide and the ZJ doesn't seem any the worse for it. So here it is, '91 SWB, 2.5L ax5 2wd. Bench seats, no a/c, nothing fancy at all except a silly aftermarket stereo and speakers. Fortunately I still have the old ones out of my other MJ (and door panels!) to replace them. ZJ was riding a bit low... I knew it was extra weight but I went with the trailer instead of the dolly because of the surge brakes, and I definitely put them to the task. After having it home almost a week I finally got it registered today (PO has no idea what a vin is or how to copy it into a bill of sale) and drove it to work and back. The brakes are sketchy, the horn doesn't work, and the radiator is tragically corroded. Also there's zero coolant in the system from what I can tell. It died twice on me on the way back, I'm thinking because of overheating. The gauge cluster was swapped from idiot lights and I don't think the senders got changed, so no coolant temp until the gauge pegs, the truck starts running rough, then shuts down. None of the classic boiling over symptoms when there's no coolant. But the PO did say it was parked because of an overheating problem, But I've got a new radiator, water pump, tstat, etc sitting at Napa for me to pick up tomorrow, so once that's in we'll go from there. It also looks like the temp and oil pressure senders interchange with the 4.0 so I've got those in the horde somewhere. I'll get that in and go from there. It's a bit of a hard start, too, and the power steering screeches like a banshee, so I'll give it a full set of ignition parts as well, and probably ignore the power steering beyond checking levels, cause it works great. And I'm gonna have to investigate the brakes, the LSV and linkage are still present, although flipped over-centre, so that's likely part of it. But the failure light is on so that warrants investigation.
  12. WahooSteeler

    Radiator

    Dvitha, tons of good info here, following this thread closely. So in your first post you said you like to use "3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of". So does this mean you kept them as a closed system instead of converting to open, being that all of your trucks are pre-HO? If so, what is your opinion on staying closed vs changing over to open? I also found the Evans waterless coolant info very interesting. Being that XJ/MJ's are known to run hot, wouldn't this make sense for most people to do being that your experience is extremely positive? The higher cost of the coolant would seem to end up more than paying for itself by lasting 10yrs with fewer hose replacements, not to mention less potential breakdown costs. Thoughts?
  13. gogmorgo

    Towing

    I just pulled an MJ on a trailer (~5500lbs) 300 miles over and along the continental divide with my ZJ. 4.0/Ax-15, 3.55's. I could've used deeper gears or more power on the hills, but on the flat it wasn't too bad. Ive also dollied an '01 Jimmy behind my MJ for about the same distance you're headed, stock brakes, and it did okay too. I'm not the biggest fan of the flat-tow myself, but it's a thing that works. I'm assuming your CJ will be set up properly for flat towing.
  14. jdwillys

    Towing

    Thank you
  15. Wounded_Fighter

    Suspension replacement

    Images from the post.
  16. Eagle

    Suspension replacement

    The link won't open for me, but I don't think JK springs or shocks fit an MJ.
  17. Found a set for JK 2011 for dirt cheap. Wondering if it might be a good swap for the tired 30 yr old suspension on my truck. Its shocks and springs only 50$. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/520557975067534/ I remember seeing at one point someone saying JK would be a good swap but can't locate the post in my history or searches, can anyone confirm or correct me?
  18. Pete M

    Budget DIY 3.5" Lift

    I believe the chevy shackles lift about an inch or so. can't remember their actual measurement. they are a good match for a 2" puck lift up front since MJs usually have some rake in them.
  19. Jeep Driver

    Towing

    Yes your truck is more than adequate. Just make sure your tow bar is flat or the CJ ain't gonna be happy.
  20. jdwillys

    Towing

    I might be towing a cj5 golden eagle,304ci. It has a tow bar. Or would it be better using a dolly? But the real question is, should I not do it at all?? My truck is a short bed, 4.0, ax15, 4x4, 3.73 gears, Dana 44, dual diaphram booster, 35" tires. Front suspension, brakes, steering are new. One hour drive up, then back mostly flat driving. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
  21. GreasemonkeySC

    Picking up a new hobby I've always wanted to learn!

    About 15yrs ago we had a welding related accident at work. The kid that was suppose to be doing the fab work was a moron! He had been doing allot of small jobs all evening, and had cutting slag all over the floor, accompanied by drops from making small cuts. He was busy welding a vertical filler of about 1\2in, and since he sucked at it, there was hot weld dropping off into the floor. The previous job he did had resulted in a half empty can of spray paint that he left on the welding table. As he was welding, he knocked the can off the table, it landed on a sharp piece of slag that punctured the can, and the dripping weld ignited the paint. It shook the entire building, and have him 3rd degree burns to everything that was exposed.
  22. dvitha

    Radiator

    the 210 sensor used is the 8932001846 sensor that is connected on left side of radiator. The switch will come on at 210 and shut off at 195 it is default sensor. the other sensor is a hayden 3651 that can control 2 fans and you can adjust temp when you want it to come on. the hayden will be hooked up to One of these, that is made for switch or temp sender Aluminum Shroud we made in shop & Triple 7" Fans is what we use. we bought 3 of these of course we used the 3 row core all metal we use these , but not their 2 fans. If you are going to use the newer radiator with the old renix style bottle you will need a high pressure cap so that you will not blow fluid. you would need something like a 21 to 25 psi cap so that the bottle can be used. The bottle cap is 15 to 18 psi. So it would blow before your cap would on radiator On one of out trucks we also did the evans waterless coolant, very expensive, however does not need changed for 10 years or more. The pressure on the system way less of normal water used coolant, which means your hoses will last much longer. It also has a much higher boiling point at 375°F and freezing point of -34° F. So far we been happy, only 1 fan ever comes on, and the max psi has only reach 1 psi ever. Even with a/c on the 1 fan cools it below 200 all the time in the 110 texas heat.
  23. yellaheep

    Colorado: Stuff.....

    Door handles sold to DesertRat and dkenitz pending funds. Jeep letters sold to Pancho975
  24. DirtyComanche

    Budget DIY 3.5" Lift

    Will Chevy 2" drop shackles actually give you 3" of lift? I thought it would be less, 2" or maybe 2.5". Which puts you at 1"-1.5" of lift on a 4wd. Those RE coils will likely come out a little high, more like 4" on a 4wd. I have them matched with a SOA using 2wd leaf springs! Buy the Bilstein shocks for the front. Measure whatever you do in the rear and buy a Bilstein that fits. With that much lift you can either do things wrong or right. Right would be a long arms, track bar and bracket, aftermarket steering, longer brake lines, etc. Wrong would be to do anything less. I have RE adjustable upper control arms and fixed lowers, and I really regret not just buying or building long arms. I have YJ brake lines and a Dakota line for the rear. And I've got an aftermarket track bar (RC I think) that's a piece of junk and I flipped the tie rod (plus used the late model XJ drag link and ZJ tie rod). Again, that could be better.
  25. Brett486

    Budget DIY 3.5" Lift

    Oh and the kicker, I have a classic car show I'm entered in Sept 8th, so I have to get this done asap.
  26. Hey fellas, I've searched the forums and can't find any answers. I'm building my own lift kit based on a suggestion from a guy on "All Things Jeep Comanche" on facebook and I've come to a standstill. Here's what I've got for it so far. RE RE1300 3.5" Coil Springs for the front. I'm keeping the stock 2WD leaf pack in the back and putting on Chevy 2" drop shackles, which should net me 3" lift in the back. My question is which shocks should I get? It will primarily be my DD and maybe some light off-road use, until I do a 4WD conversion. Eventually... Also would y'all suggest any other suspension components for the front to avoid death wobble or steering problems? (Stabilizer, pitman arm, adjustable track bar) Attached are the shocks I've been looking at. TIA.
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