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need a replacement computer... now a question about hdd drivers and Win7
Pete M replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
the toshiba should not have an os on it. (my seagate from the old laptop did and was causing some early confusion, but that is no longer in the picture). -
I use this on all mechanical cables. Doesn't gum up, lasts forever, and easy to apply into the sheath with the needle. Great stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Drislide-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Liquid-oz/dp/B001F2Y25G
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With all the old Chevy pick-ups I've owned, I used a light coating of bearing grease. It stays in place and holds up to heat. In those cases, I would disconnect the speedo cable from both ends, pull the cable out and shoot a copious amount of brake cleaner down the cable sheath to clean it out. (put the lower end of the cable into a bucket or something to catch the mess) Then I would dab bearing grease in the palm of my hand as if I was going to pack a bearing, and drag the cable through. Again, a LIGHT coating the length of the cable, then put everything back together. Of course, I always made a mess doing this but it works on old chevys. Are my redneck roots showing?
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After thinking my brake issues were fixed I continued driving the truck to work over the last couple weeks and still had some strange things happening. The rotors ended up being warped from the brakes locking up after the first round of brake work. Well at first it only seemed to be affecting braking so I knew I needed new brakes but not necessarily immediately. But the first time I drove it to work I started to get a really bad shimmy in the front end about 10 mins into my drive that would either go away on its own, or go away after I pulled over and took off again. I figured the shimmy had to be due to the warped brakes so I ordered new rotors/hubs, pads, calipers, bearings and seals, and soft lines for the front. When the parts arrived I got the work done over last weekend. Started by tearing everything apart and found the drivers side spindle had some wear in it. This will get replaced eventually but it's gonna have to do for now since I had to do way more brake work than I had anticipated. I also found that rotor to be cracked. First step of install was to swap over to the new calipers and hoses. I attached the hose to the caliper while it was on the bench then attached the hose to the truck. Packed the bearings with grease and got them in the hub and tapped the new outer seal into place. After the rotor/hub has greased bearings and rear seal I slid it onto the spindle, put on the new thrust washer, new nut torqued properly thanks to HOrnbrod and his FSM, new nut retainer, and new cotter pin. Replaced dust cover, installed new pads and retainers, and bolted up the calipers. Bled brakes and reinstalled the wheels and all seemed well. Did a long test drive and everything seemed fine until I drove to work a couple days later... 10 mins into my drive I started to lose speed for seemingly no reason. Down shifted to fourth and I was able to accelerate back up to 70mph and shifted back to 5th and had no issues the rest of the drive. This happened every day after 10 mins of driving down the highway. Fast forward to yesterday when I finally had the ah-ha moment. The booster and master the I used were the ones that came in the blue truck when I bought it. I never took the master off the booster because I assumed it was a matched pair from the factory. I was wrong and found the push rod to be too long and not allowing the master to return completely causing brake drag. Since the push rod is recessed inside the booster it's kind of a pain to adjust but with a small socket and long needle nose pliers it can be done. Grip the shaft with the pliers and use the socket on the end of the push rod. After some trial and error I found that 3 threads shorter than what it was at was perfect. I didn't use any special tools, I just pushed the master on and felt for engagement between the master and push rod. The pedal feels so much nicer now and after a trip to work I had no issues. Finally!!
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Also forgot I finally got my wipers working! Went ahead and did the 97 xj arms and a set of beam blades [emoji106] Sent from my LGMS210 using Tapatalk
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swaybar, pros? cons?
ParadiseMJ replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Do you really you have the presence of mind to think, in a split second..."There's a dog that just jumped out in front of me, I shouldn't avoid it, I'll just run it over and hope he doesn't get squashed under a tire...I'll just speed up". Pretty much everyone would swerve to avoid it. Just keep the sway bar, and put discos on it for off road if you must (IMHO). Removing the sway bar has zero positives on the road. -
need a replacement computer... now a question about hdd drivers and Win7
Jeep Driver replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
Are you trying to boot with two hard drives each with its own OS? -
need a replacement computer... now a question about hdd drivers and Win7
Pete M replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
there are a ton of updates! - Today
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89 MJ with NO rust at all! Totally redone with full 2000 conversion, ( power train exterior and interior) pw windows, ac/heat. 6” B lee’s lift with B Lee’s jj joints and complete B Lee’s steering sistem, upgrades steering box with new V8 Durango steering box , 8.8 rear end 4:88 gears with LSD. New 37s and wheels, Raptor lined . Needs front DS and regearing front axle. Looking to sell or trade for camper. Contact me at 615-556-5291 located near Nashville TN. Mostly interested in trading for a camper.
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need a replacement computer... now a question about hdd drivers and Win7
Pete M replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
working on that now. on a side note, while jumping through HP's hoops, I found a menu that actual acknowledges the drive's 500 gig size! -
A sway bar (actually, it's an ANTI-sway bar) reduces body roll when cornering. As a general rule, whichever end of the vehicle you add roll resistance to tends to push out on cornering. Thus, if you increase the diameter of the front bar, expect a slight increase in understeer ... which you will experience only if you are at the limits of traction. Adding a rear bar, such as Hornbrod has done, counteracts the front understeer to give you more balanced cornering. Go too stiff on the rear bar and you get oversteer (the rear tends to break loose in cornering before the front). Personally, I prefer a suspension that provides slight oversteer at maximum cornering Gs. I also prefer a vehicle that stays as flat as possible, so I'm all in favor of the 28mm bar, and then perhaps a rear bar as a supplement. For off-road, you need the ability to disconnect the anti-sway bar(s), because they limit suspension travel in off-camber situations.
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need a replacement computer... now a question about hdd drivers and Win7
Dzimm replied to Pete M's topic in The Pub
Don't use windows to update it, use HPs website and download it from there. I don't think I've ever had windows able to update a driver and always had to pull it from the manufacturer website. -
swaybar, pros? cons?
youngfred replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
... The Mopar. youngfred -
Weld on steering box stiffener/OEM spacer replacement
krustyballer16 replied to MancheKid86's topic in Vendors
I'm currently making frame stiffeners and kinda making this same thing. I'd suggest to you to have these wrap under the bottom side of the frame rail too The frame cracks a lot right there. When I was designing my stiffeners I covered a lot of this area... Another thing I'd suggest, that I'll do, is make the steering box holes, where the spacers go, as big as the outside diameter of the tube. So you don't hsve to center the tube over the bolt hole, it's already centered when you drop the tube in the plate. And price isnt too bad. I'd see if they fit in some kind of flat rate box. Shipping across the border might suck. I know it does for me. Maybe find out generic shipping cost and add that and round up in your price. Easier than figuring everybodys shipping. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk -
swaybar, pros? cons?
HOrnbrod replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Which 28mm bar did you get? The Mopar 28mm bar or an aftermarket, like an Addco? The Addco was way too stiff and rigid up front for me, but the Mopar 28mm was perfect. It's much more flexible. -
Cherokee vs Comanche Blower Motor
Cali Cruse replied to Cali Cruse's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Oh I'm a big fan of the Corvair, the size, the location of the engine, everything about it was exotic in nature. I mean look at Porsche 911, Boxter or mid engined sports cars from other manufacturers. Happy to see Corvette going mid-engined by 2020 MY. -
So substitute "neighbor's child" for "neighbor's dog." Are you going to speed up, or swerve? That sway bar was put on the vehicle for a reason, and when you lift the vehicle it becomes more important, not less. Get some longer links.
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Perhaps I did not choose the correct terms. The studs on the tcase are in the same position on whether it came from a MJ/XJ/YJ. The "clocking difference" is the location of the holes drilled on the backing plate of the trans. These hole locations will cause the tcase to clock differently. (Lots of youtube videos on drilling new holes to align the tcase between models.) If the PO pulled the trans from a YJ and didn't drill new holes, this will cause the clocking diff I was bringing up. As Minuit brought up, the PO prob cut the floor to access the upper bolts.
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It'll feel better. Not necessarily in a straight line, but you should notice a reduction in body roll on turns. The standard 24mm is perfectly adequate to make the truck not be scary, but the 28mm is just better.
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swaybar, pros? cons?
youngfred replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
... So, on the other hand, what can I expect, with highway driving from the 28mm(thicker-than-stock) sway bar that I installed, up front? youngfred -
swaybar, pros? cons?
zomeizter replied to Wounded_Fighter's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
No sway bar on-road driving=extremely interesting and exiting way to get to point B...if you make it to point B. -
I installed a brand new speedo cable. It bounces like crazy. I have heard to add lube into the cable. Does anybody know if it matters what type? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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My speedo bounced from 0-40mph, beyond that it was good. I swapped out my cable, set the gear, made no difference. Others have reported the bouncing too, I've yet to read that a new cable solved the problem. Could be the gear, could be the cable, could be the speedo itself.
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Last H.O. fuel sender sold.
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Well I have a little maintenance to do tomorrow. I’ll post some photography. Thanks all, trying to avoid any speeding tickets
