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Found 7 results

  1. I have a new alternator to put into my mj - as soon as the weather warms up a bit. But I need a bit of insight into how the alternator hooks up to the wiring. This could be a stupid question, but here goes: The wiring diagram shows three wires connecting to the alternator. Looks like they go to battery, ignition, and instrument cluster. My jeep only has two wires actually connected at the alternator, battery and (I assume) ignition (since it will start) There is a third wire, but it is not connected to anything at the moment. I have not yet begun to explore the intricacies of the electrical system on this project, so I'll leave that for now. So my question relates to the non-battery wires. My new alternator is internally regulated and has connections for "field" and "stator" (along with the main battery connection). Which one would the instruments hook into? Since there does not seem to be electrical connectivity, when at rest, between the battery terminal and either the stator or field connection, how does the ignition switch get power? Do I hook the switch wire directly to the battery connection?
  2. In adding a decent winch to my beast, I'm looking for advice about my charging system. 1) is there any easy way to tell which alternator (I understand that there were different models with different outputs) is in my truck? 2) What is the largest battery anyone has shoehorned into the normal location? 3) Any recommended battery? 4) If a second battery is added, where does one put it? (Just trying to consider all my options) 5) in wiring the winch, is it preferable to runa ground direct to the battery, is is it ok to ground to the frame? Thanks in advance for any assistance
  3. So I'm trying to find out why my truck keeps dying. I jumped it off, let the vehicles run for several minutes, took the jumper cables off, and it runs for about a minute, then dies. I also noticed its idling weird. it will idle high, then get really low, then sound like someone is tapping the gas pedal. It will die soon after that. The alternator is brand new, I tried 3 different batteries (can't find my multimeter at the moment to make sure they are good, they are all about 5 years old). So I think I have it narrowed down to the battery, or a connection to the alternator. In the morning I am going to find my multimeter, and recheck the alternator connections. Am I missing something else that it could be? Would a bad battery make it idle like that?
  4. 1986 jeep comanche 4X4 2.4l engine my alternator light was on for months. one day i went to start it, nothing. i changed the alternator and motor craft solenoid. my husband had undone the negative cable from the solenoid to the battery. after i installed the alternator and solenoid i had not known my husband unplugged the negative cable (he did it when i was getting the parts), after i installed all the new equipment i turned on the light switch for the headlights and turned the key... nothing. i went to go check the cables and saw the negative to the solenoid unhooked, i hooked it up and tried again. still no start and no lights. i took the battery to the store to have it charged. i was told it was discharged. took it back and hooked everything back up. still no lights and no start. checked the starter by jumping it. the engine turned over yet would not stay on. i still have nothing when i turn the key and no brake lights or headlights? what is wrong and how can i fix it?
  5. If you're anything like me, you just got back from the junkyard with a fresh batch of 136A upgrade alternators ready to kill in the mud. You just took them off the Dodge trucks because they're plentiful and right on top so they're easy to get. But in your haste, you grabbed the wrong alternator and your new one has a quick connect plug instead of the usual ring terminals. This isn't a problem. As long as you grabbed a quick connect pigtail, you're fine. If not, you can go back or try the dealer or ebay. I found one with a quick search for $17 - #RPT-52010. This is really easy wiring. They didn't even change half of it. Connect the green wire to the green wire, which goes to the PCM, and connect the other wire (colors may vary) to what you found next to the green wire. If your factory harness has a ground wire, ground it. Piece of cake. If it's your first time with the bigger alternator, you will need to introduce your grinder to your alternator bracket, upgrade your alternator V+ output wire, and you're golden. You don't need to grind a lot, it's not a big deal. Here's some diagrams and a photo of some alternators to grab some attention. Dodge 136A Alternators Typical stock wiring Dodge ALT plug
  6. I have a 1989 4.0 and ever since I owned the truck my alternator quits more than it should. I bought it with 32000 miles and had my first alternator professionally re-built at around 38000 miles. Then it went again at 63000 miles and had it re-built again. Now at 71000 I am getting a very weak voltage signal. Sometimes at random incidences the voltage gauge will spike up to ~13 like it is charging like normal but will then go back down to ~10 after a short amount of time. It mostly stays at around ~10 volts now. Why does this alternator die so often? or is this normal....? To fix this issue I am thinking of getting an alternator from ac/delco or a stronger built one that puts out 100 amps.
  7. Just tonight I noticed a humming or buzzing sound coming from the alternator, engine off and key out. Unplugging the alt makes the noise go away. I have done some preliminary research and have heard something about an 'exciter' wire, what ever that is. Or something has been left on in the cab, which there isnt. ftpiercecracker
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