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About rustybottoms88

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Off-roading and Agriculture

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  1. Still have most of it. Email me ats seefarms870@hotmail.com
  2. Few more pictures. Also forgot to mention the axles come with one piece axle with seals and block off plate for the d30.
  3. I got a short bed bed for sale with passenger side tail light. Drivers side tail light is busted out. It came off of a 1987 Comanche Sportruck. No rust on the bed. Small dent on lower rocker panel asking $250. I have a tail gate that I would sell too for $150. I have the axles out of the same truck. Front is a Dana 30 and rear is a AMC20 with one piece axles and LSD. Both axles have 4.10 gearing. $400 for the pair. I also have a auto trans out of the truck and a NP231 out of a 87 YJ that will fit behind it. $100 for the Tcase and $75 for the Auto Trans. I can post more pics of the tailgate and axles later. I am located in North Central Arkansas near Pyatt, AR. The more parts you buy the cheaper the prices get! Thanks for looking.
  4. Update! Ok well this happened again: I suspected a fuel pump or something with in that system. It had started acting up on a Friday. It would start and then immediately die. I would restart it and then it would run fine. Saturday morning I was driving down a dirt road and it died several times. I would kick it in neutral and restart it with the key while it was still rolling. It eventually straightens out and I go about my day with out any other problems. I raked hay the rest of the day until Saturday afternoon. When I head towards the house about 2pm I get about 1 mile down the road and truck dies again while going down a hill. It will not restart like it had done in the morning. I pulled over to a vacant parking lot and it would start and die and then eventually it would not fire at all. I got it home and hooked up a fuel gauge to the fuel rail. It showed 7 lbs after cranking the motor over. I bled that off and cranked it again and no pressure built this time. So I checked and refreshed the fuel pump ground behind the drivers side rear taillight and still nothing. I could not hear the pump prime when i turned the key on. I then changed out the CPS with a fairly new spare I had. Still nothing. At about 10pm I came to the conclusion that the fuel pump was dead. Sunday morning I went church and after church I called autozone and the gentlemen on the phone told me they had a fuel pump for my truck. I drove to pick it up. 20 something miles one way. I get back to the house with the new fuel pump. I then drain the gas as best I could from the tank. I had just filled the tank up with fuel Saturday morning.....figures. Then I removed the fuel tank from the truck and fuel pump from the tank. I find that the new fuel pump will not fit on the fuel pump bracket. Maybe it would fit some way but the instructions were missing from the box the fuel pump came in. So I headed back to town, 20 plus miles one way, to exchange the fuel pump for another. Autozone did not have another so I went to Oriellys. They had a spectre brand and it was the proper fit. Problem was I had left my wallet at home.....so back to the house I go and well I made another round trip to town and back home. At this point its 7pm in the evening. I installed the new pump and button everything up. I turn the key on. The fuel pump did not prime. I crank the engine over it now fires up and runs for a second and dies. I check the fuel pressure and it is around 32psi after cranking. The pump is pumping when the engine is cranking but stops after the truck starts. I google my symptom's and find this video by bleeping jeep. https://youtu.be/0M9piFUSDwo I am confident I this is my problem. At this point it is 11:30pm. I go to bed. I wake up in the morning jumper the ballast resistor and it behaves the same. I go to work. I ponder and think. I ask a few questions in a old thread on this sight. I go home and decide to try and jumper the fuel pump relay....something I had not thought of up to this point. The fuel pump runs and I start the truck. It runs. Pete on this sight commented on my question and suggest the relay as well. Tuesday morning I swap the ac relay out for the fuel pump relay and drive it to town and I buy a new relay. Problem solved. The truck is now at 195K miles.
  5. I have the same problem. I like you thought it was the ballast resistor. I bypassed it with a jumper and still same problem. I have plenty of fuel pressure AFTER cranking the engine so I know the pump is running while cranking. However I do not hear the pump prime when i first turn on the key. What else do I need to check in the "run" circuit for the fuel pump? Relay? I have refreshed the fuel pump ground and all of crusiers ground refreshing. I installed new fuel filter and fuel pump as well as throwig on a new CPS. I also replaced injectors and fuel pressure regulator about a year ago. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  6. Its also a good idea to buy premium gas, it has less ethanol and should keep longer especially with the stabil added.
  7. The Spectra Premium radiator will work in either application and has the opening for trans lines and water temp sensor. Part # CU1193. Check out my build thread for details. http://comancheclub.com/topic/44995-ems-mj/page-8
  8. I am at the 192K mile mark on the jeep. I had high hopes in spending some tax return money on the truck but paying the hay bill for my cows and paying for a repair on my diesel truck the money is going fast. I did replace the alternator last week as it finally gave up the ghost. It is one of the few things I had not replaced under the hood. I was driving to work one morning and noticed the amp meter reading 9. SO i pulled back into the house grabbed the other truck and went on my way. Few days later I pulled the alt. Took it to parts store they tested it said it was good. I cleaned all the grounds and power connections and reinstalled the alt. It charged like a new one for a day and then went out again. This time I had it tested and it failed and I bought a new one. Its charging like a champ now. Thats all the news nothing new. I would like to rebuild the NP231 soon and get the 4wd conversion going but we will see. Thanks for watching.
  9. So everything has been going along pretty good. My wife and I had our baby girl on Dec. 11th. After that I had some time off work so I checked the brakes. Front pads were dang near metal to metal and the rear pads were ok except for a rear axle seal leak on the passenger side. I replaced the front pads but ignored the rear axle seal as I hate to put money into the D35 when i have the AMC20 going in.....someday. I know its not safe to have axle seal leak. I also noticed the arm going from the proportioning valve to the axle was missing. I will have to replace that, I kinda have planned on that happening during the axle swap. I jerry rigged the proportioning valve with a zip tie as I ran out of time. In the mean time I been working the ole jeep.
  10. Ended up holding off on this one. We still want a Cherokee but it will be after the New Year before that can happen. Thanks for the help.
  11. OK so I did some reading here on the forum and I decided to do kind of a open/closed cooling hybrid system. My heater diverter valve thing is working fine and my pressure bottle is holding up fine as well so I just bought a raidator for a 1996 Cherokee. This one even has the bung for the fan temp controller sensor thingy. I give credit to Bleeping Jeep on Utube for the help on that through his videos. Here is the part number: and here it is all nestled in to the ole Comanche: The only mods I had to do was to redrill the bolt holes for the tabs that connect the a/c condensor to the radiator. I have a concern about this tranny line rubbing on the chassis tho.....in this picture you can also see the bung for the electric fan temp sensor: I also bought a electric fan for a 1999 Jeep Cherokee with the curved blades to go in the comanche. I think it will be a huge improvement over the crappy one I have in now. I had to track down a pigtail connect for the new fan and I found one today and will install the new fan tonight.
  12. I wish i had more details to tell. It was hot that day but it was not window busting hot and the truck was/is not air tight. I arrived at work went inside and worked until lunch, came out to run errands on my lunch break and found the passenger side window broken out and glass was all the way over into the drivers seat. The truck sits right outside the window of my office so I would of heard some kid throwing rocks and probably would of heard a lawn mower spewing rocks. Plus there was not projectile found in the truck. The window had been replaced probably two years ago. It was replaced with a junkyard window. I work in a town of about 2k people and we are at the end of a dead end street. You guys have any ideas?
  13. I got them from Team Cherokee. They are nice pieces but they are so tight I can not easily roll the window up or down. They are gradually getting better.
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