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Lantresor

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  1. Will do, thanks again! I'm hoping the battery was just a dud, but I'll be back if it happens again lol.
  2. Nothing from the relays or solenoid. Still clicking, but doesn't do it when battery is hooked up until after I start it, maybe it is just heat related, I can't think of anything else.
  3. Yeah I have a cheapo aftermarket stereo that was already installed when I bought the truck, no sub or amp or anything extra. Thanks a bunch, I'll test out holding the relays and solenoid in the morning and make an update
  4. Could it have gotten hot enough to make noise running only for 3ish seconds? Not being a smart-@$$, I'm an idiot and legitimately don't know. Each time it's been a total cold start and only ran for long enough to turn over
  5. Over the span of about 10 minutes they got less and less frequent, and slightly more quiet until it seems to have stopped or my hearing isn't good enough to pick it up anymore
  6. Replaced the battery, it started right up. Shut it down, unplugged and removed battery, click still happening. I'm at a loss
  7. Hey guys, So my Comanche (1989 - 4.0 - Automatic - 2WD - Short Bed) sat for about 2 weeks after I took it out for a mil training event. Just for some background info: before I left for the trip, I replaced the starter and wired in a new turn signal bulb connector since the original was semi-melted and didn't work consistently. Now, when I went to start it, the battery was dead. I have a HALO power bank that can jump car batteries, so I attempted that to see if it'd get it going, but it'd turn over and then die after like 3 seconds. I'm going to trickle charge the battery and see if it'll turn over later, but my main concern was that it was making a clicking noise for a couple minutes after trying. It clicked while completely off with the key removed. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. I took a couple videos trying to move my camera around and see if it got louder, but it didn't really help much. I am assuming this is related to what killed the battery, since it was doing it while completely shut off. Any ideas? P.S. sorry about the sniffling in the videos lol 649217382_ComancheClicking01(1).mp4 320167470_ComancheClicking02(1).mp4
  8. Jammed the wire in there like suggested and it went in about 2-3 inches so I think I'm good to just send another bolt. Hopefully... lol Definitely going to tighten them all again once I have that bolt in. Thanks a bunch guys!
  9. I wouldn't have thought of that lol. I'll poke one in in the morning, excellent idea. I looked at a diagram and it does look like it's supposed to be a stud
  10. Man that's a terrifying thought. I tried to jam my phone in there and get some pictures of it since I can't get a good look myself. It doesn't look, to me, like it's broken in there. What do you think? Couldn't get a great angle still...
  11. You called it haha, I am missing the bottom back bolt too. Thanks!
  12. Thank you, I'll do that next today! I checked the top ones, they were tight and all accounted for. Haven't checked the bottom half yet, but I'll do that today and re-snug them all just in case.
  13. Hey guys, about a month ago I bought a 1989 4.0 inline 6 that's 2WD. It sounded and seemed to run well when I test drove it, so I bought it and trailered it home. Once I started driving it around, I noticed the idle sounds worse, like it's stuttering. RPM barely changes, though. It also started to occasionally stall when coming to a stop or accelerating from stopped. I got stuck in road work and every time traffic came to a stop, it'd shut off and I'd have to start it back up. I've done Cruiser's tips 1-5 and so far nothing has made a difference. I did a smoke test in several spots and the only leak I've found so far was at the crankcase breather gasket at the back of the valve cover - I have a new one ordered. I've read that the exhaust manifold commonly breaks at the bottom weld, so I was looking to see if any smoke came out there, but I never saw any. Is there a better way to test this? Also I hear a quiet knocking that doesn't change with RPM, I'm going to get a stethoscope to try and figure out where that's coming from. So far I've replaced: Spark Plugs + Wires Distributor Cap + Rotor ICM + Coil MAP Sensor + its vacuum line Both Vacuum Harnesses O2 Sensor IAC valve Big 7 Wire upgrade I'm pretty new to wrenching and I'd greatly appreciate any help or insight. I love this little truck and hoping to get it to a place I can confidently daily drive it.
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