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Found 24 results

  1. Ok guys, what is the best route in dealing with that height proportioning valve on my rear brakes. It nasty it’s rusty and i don’t know that it even works anymore like it should. I have a suspicion that it might be clogged. Does that ever happen? I say that because when I bleed the rear brakes the brake fluid doesn’t gush out but rather spurts out. However when messing with the arm on the valve I got the fluid to bleed out better but still not like it should. Either way I’m doing some brake work back there and it’s time to address this valve. Can it be rebuilt? I know buying a new or used one
  2. Hey guys, If it's needed: 1989 with old Renix 4.0 - stock dana 35 I am trying to do a WJ master cylinder / brake booster swap since the old one was rusted out with a leaky booster. In the process of installing it I accidentally crushed the proportioning valve when putting the lines in so I have to replace it. I have put two new proportioning valves in but it leaks from the same two each time I thought I tightened it down without pushing the line in first so I put another in and clearly that wasn't the issue. I bought an XJ proportioning valve and will not be
  3. While my Comanche was parked over the course of 2 days I almost completely lost my brakes. The rears are worse than the fronts. The fronts will lock up, I'm not sure the rears are working at all. Parking brake also doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas? It must be both rear brakes as it doesn’t pull while braking. The reservoir was low, but not empty and hasn’t lost any fluid since I topped it off. Can’t see any leaks, brake proportional valve is still installed, but is tied up, and is also not leaking. (When I checked initially, it was down, but brake pressure never increased when putting it back u
  4. Hey guys I was instructed by @Pete M to write a new write on swapping disc brakes. This is my first write up and being one of the younger guys on the forum feel free to critic the write up. **You can easily do this swap in a few hours, given you have the tools and are handy.** First things first find your local salvage/junkyard and find a jeep liberty with rear disc brakes. I personally used an 04 liberty. You are going to pull all the good stuff, backing plates, rotors if they are good, calipers (to use as cores for new ones), brakes lines, e-brake components minus the e
  5. Had a caliper hang up on me yesterday so figured it was time to replace both as well as pads/rotors. Was going to use the duralast rebuilt calipers and gold pads/rotors, but does anyone have further recommendations? Also, while I'm doing the job, anything else i should look at maintenance wise/replace?
  6. So I've done a good bit of research and can't seem to find what swapping in a ZJ proportioning valve will look like. My plan is to swap to a '96 booster and MC from a ZJ, swap in a ford 8.8 (rear disc), and use the proportioning valve from the ZJ to delete the factory load sensing valve. Any info on the p-valve fitting sizes and line work that would need to be done would be great! Thanks in advance!
  7. I know there are many threads that explain this procedure but another won't hurt from someone elses experience. So, this weekend I am starting the dual diaphragm conversion on my 1989 MJ. To start off, here are the tools and equipment I have so far: 1996 XJ Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (bought off of JC Whitney) $170 (2) 3/16 diameter bubble flared with 10mm fitting brake lines STANDARD flare tool (rented from auto parts store) (1) 12mm thread 3/16 diameter line, fitting (1) Vacuum Tool (4) 10mm stop or lock nuts (1) Line cutter The four 10mm nuts are for the brake booster.
  8. Hey guys/gals. So i started to build up my 87 Jeep MJ drum brakes and when i was tearing them down a few weeks ago, I noticed there were no parts inside except the driver side wheel cylinder. So I went to my local auto part store and ordered all that i could but am unsure of what all I need. Does anyone have a complete list or could they help me find a few of the levers/struts that go inside of it? I know I'm missing the park brake lever, the strut and spring and the shoe guide plate. Id like to mention it has a dana 35 with the 10inch x 2 1/4in brakes. Thank you in advance!
  9. I could use some help. I did the WJ brake booster upgrade, but I had a leak at the back of the distribution block. Fluid was coming up out of the top of the rear fitting. Pulled everything out again, took a new set of lines to my mechanic--thinking maybe my lack of experience in making double flares was the problem--and put everything back in. Today I went out to bleed the brakes and finish the job when I noticed that fluid was already coming out of the rear fitting again, without ever having depressed the brake pedal. The line is new again and the brake line fitting is new again. Coul
  10. I recently finished doing an 8.8 SOA swap in my 1991 Jeep comanche Pioneer 4.0 manual. I need to do something about the brakes because they are seriously lacking in stopping power. Currently all I have done is eliminated the rear proportioning valve. I am going to swap in a 95/96 XJ brake booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve. My question is seeing that the 8.8 has disc brakes do I need to find a brake booster, master cylinder and prop valve from a donor vehicle that also has disk brakes or will a donor with drums work? What would be the best set up to keep the rears from lock
  11. I have a 1988 jeep comanche and i can't get the air out of the brake lines i put new ones on and i get brake fluid out of the lines but no air but the peddle is still soft and their are no leaks what do i do
  12. I noticed a few days ago my brake lights have not been working for some reason. But I have taillights or running lights (whichever you prefer) and they are nice and bright. I have been over the sockets in the back before I had inspection a 6 months ago and cleaned them all up to make sure I was getting good connections. they worked really nice up until a few days ago. I only know they stopped working because I always check to make sure they work when I'm driving down the road. not sure why I do that but you never know what weird stuff happens in a Comanche. Anyway hopefully someone can point m
  13. Hi Guys, I'm sure that there's already a post for this, but I couldn't find it.. But Anyways, I've seen pictures, and home made diagrams on how to delete it, but no detailed write ups, or pics.. :???: Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
  14. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true
  15. I have a 1989 Jeep Comanche without ABS. It was originally 2-wheel drive, but I began the conversion process by swapping in a front axle from a 1993 Jeep Cherokee with ABS. After that was put and the system bled we went to test it and found we were without brakes. The pedal went to the floor. It could be pumped up without leaking down, but after it was let off for a few seconds, it would again push straight to the floor. We found the proportioning valve was stuck, so it was replaced along with the weak, old master cylinder. The height-sensing system in the back was eliminated by running
  16. Hello, I have an 1988 jeep Comanche Eliminator used as a daily driver with an overheating brake problem. I just replaced the front disc with slotted rotors and new pads and also replaced the rear drum shoes to. The brakes work good until you go down hills. When going down hills I can start to feel the brakes fade and then the brake peddle goes to the floor with the truck slowly coming to a stop and I have to pull over because I have no brakes. Even when I pump the brakes that doesn't help ether. I don't ride my brakes and usually use engine braking. I was wondering if my master cyli
  17. Large list of parts for the MJ. Heavy on brake parts but lot s of other stuff too. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1181821&m=wc&l=en&html=true
  18. I have a dana 35 rear end right now and i am currently redoing all my brake lines after this past winter the negative 30 days were cold enough to burst my brake line. i figure since I'm going through all this work i might aswell convert my rear brake drums to disk brakes. I know some of the grand cherokees later came with rear disk brakes i just want to know what all do i need to grab from the grand cherokee at a junk yard to convert them I'll end up buying brand new calipers and rotors and pads from the store but i still need all the mounting hardware. any suggestions or advice from anyone wh
  19. hey guys i am looking at getting a 3 in rough country lift for my comanche and i wanted to know if i should buy extended brake lines bc i want to replace them anyway. does anyone have a preference of whom they get it from and or what size. thanks brady
  21. OK - I know this horse was turned into glue long ago, but I just want to be sure: On the MJ distribution block, the port you plug to eliminate the rear height sensing valve is the one on the nose of the block, right? and the one on the bottom front is to be plumbed directly into the lines from the rear axle? So many threads have come and gone ion this, and many pictures have been removed. There is no 'clear' picture of the entire system (as did exist some time ago). Thanks!
  22. So I was attempting to do a simple brake job on a 2009 town and country for a friend and I could not believe how hard the back brakes were. The issue I was having was not being able to push the piston back in the caliper. I tried a C-clamp, prying it, loosening the bleeder screw then trying both again. Nothing. That piston was not moving. I was scratching my head on this one. So I thought Id do a little research.... Comes to find out that modern technology has changed a few things. The back brakes are disc brakes on this van but for a safety feature when the hydraulic system fails, the mechani
  23. I searched through 3 pages of stuff and didnt really find out what I exactly needed to know. I got a brake booster and master cylinder from a buddy that was parting out a 99 XJ. What all is entailed to swap it with the old crap in my 89?
  24. Problem: Brake lights do not work.Need help diagnosing the problem so I can pass vehicle inspection. There may be a few electrical problems, but the critical issue at hand is the brake lights. Truck: 1987 2.5l, AX4 2WD. Symptoms:1) Running lights work. Therefore I assume the ground is good? 2) Turn signals work. They are s..l..o..w.. when the lights are on, normal speed when the lights are off. 3) Turn signal dash lights: When the running lights are on, both signal (little green arrows) are "on" even though the signal is not activated. When the running lights are turned off
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