thedadbodrod

So, odd turn of events. Before going any further with trying to figure out what was stopping flow to the FR lines, I decided to try and bleed it one more time. Lo and behold, it worked. I followed the MJ bleeding procedure with good results. As per the usual with these stock brakes, it's still garbage, but it's better than before. Doesn't pull to the left when I brake anymore either, so that's a relief. Garbage with a new bag. I find absolutely no security knowing that the problem I had was and still is a mystery, seeing are brakes are pretty important in Southern CA. BUT HEY it's back on the road after 4 months, various repairs, over 2 gallons of brake fluid, approximately 12 cans of brake cleaner, and 19 bug bites.

That's a good observation, luckily I did a double take when starting this whole brake rebuild and made sure the calipers are where they should be. It's looking like the wilwood prop valve is the best bet so I'll do some digging to find those posts and how-tos, depending on how the next few hours goes. Pictures would be appreciated.

Seems like that's the consensus, therefore, it's not the distro valve. Gonna tinker with it this weekend with all of the new info and I'll update you all.

To test flow through the new soft line and caliper, I disconnected the soft line from the hard line, put a reverse bleeder onto the soft line, opened the bleeder valve and pumped fluid through the soft line and caliper with no problem. Therefore the problem lies somewhere between the end of the FR hardline and MC. Looks like the next step is taking it apart and cleaning 🤟

I tested both the caliper and the soft line and got flow through both. Considering that it's just the one side that's obstructed, it seems like I should try to clean out that solid line and/or that port on the distribution block. I'll give that a run as well

Circled in red is the 'pin,' I've read the word a dozen times today but can't remember what it is. Circled in white is that little recess of the pin that I cannot see when I remove the break light connector. In the next few days I'll give that bleeding procedure a shot and see if that frees up the front right line. If there's dirt in my lines then I got a score to settle. With God.

Soft line and caliper have flow through them, and fluid was coming out of the front right when I had started bleeding, but cut off at some point and won't resume. I think it's the prop valve because of that little "pin" inside not showing the indentation that prevents the brake light circuit from being completed, if you're aware of what I'm talking about.

Alright folks, where do I buy a new/refurbished/used stock proportioning valve (or distribution block according to some, but I'm unsure)? I've been trying to bleed my brakes for 2 days now but my front right will not bleed, albeit by gravity, vacuum, reverse bleeding, the works. I've read in a number of places that the little "pin" in the proportioning valve has done it's thing where, when bleeding, it decides to cut off flow. Trouble is, I can't get the "pin" to go back to resting position. I tried manually pushing the pin after removing the brake light sensor gizmo on the prop valve, but that didn't work. Tried bleeding in different orders, that didn't work. Tried slamming the brakes with the engine running and not running. ETC. I tried everything but couldn't get that line to open up. Where can i find a replacement? If not replacement, what easy mod can I do to keep as much stock as possible? Base model 88 short bed - 4.0L 4wd automatic 75k miles -General notes: years of squishy brakes premature locking of rear tires when stopping general pull to one direction when braking ^^^ new repairs include all plastic lines, calipers, pads and master cylinder are new no mods 29inch tires no lift no pinches or clogs in rubber or solid line, from caliper to prop valve desire to keep as much stock as possible but willing to lightly mod to have a running jeep that stops for once Questions, recommendations, links to other posts, all are welcome.