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Found 107 results

  1. I have almost a complete red/maroon interior and a few other odds and ends for sale. All were removed from my current project 87 Chief. The condition is as expected for 33 years old. I have no idea what this is worth, not looking to make a fortune, just don't want to hold on to things others could use. Feel free to message me with any questions.
  2. I purchased this MJ in October of 2015.. Got it ready for the road and inspection and parked it in November. I will be away from December until April so nothing was being done except lots of comanche club reading! Pictures from the kijiji ad: It's about time to actually start working on the jeep so I will try and keep this build page updated. Mostly with pictures. I live on the Island of Newfoundland, Canada. Saw the ad posting for the Mj in PEI (Prince Edward Island), so that means two ferries and a small road trip to go check it out. Loaded up in a Ford windstar mini van and off I went. Looked at the Jeep, hooked it up to a set of tow dollies, unhooked the rear driveshaft (which to my surprise came off easy) and headed home. Got it home and really sized it up, more rust than I initially thought. So this is going to be a faily big project that I got to "sleep on" all winter. I did however fix the floor rust and few other things that it would need to be inspected and registered. I'm the second owner of this Jeep, I bought it off the original owner who picked it up in '89. Nice older gentleman who said the truck as been sitting in his shop for the past couple years. It only has 155,000kms on it. I was expecting it to have some maintenance needed. I didn't get pictures of the actual nest in the intake box.. One thing I did learn from here is to pull your carpets.. I was kind of nervous about it, seeing as the Jeep came from a Island on the east coast. I shouldn't have been too shocked but I was kind of taken back when I seen the carpet was half the floor Passenger side wasn't as bad Never having done body work before I was kind of discouraged but in the end I think the floor turned out ok. Patch work done and passenger side sealed I did put down some rubber water seal but I'm not too sure if I like it. It doesn't stick as good as I was hoping, but it was colder when I installed it. Looking underneath it was certain rust was going to be my biggest issue with this build I'm planning on a front and rear axle swap, XJ front and the Explorer 8.8 so I'm not too concerned with the axle rust. The frame and body are in overall decent condition. It looks as though the bottom of the doors and the box have been redone before. I did get it inspected, insured and registered before I parked it for the winter. First actual drive.. Can see where the fender meets the door area that it doesn't look factory/lined up properly. It will most likely be cut out for rock rails anyway.
  4. Future cummins overland build. This is the day I got it home, rust free from virginia. Follow me on instagram @mulletman.mj.
  5. https://m.facebook.com/groups/339415879775306?view=permalink&id=1033788690338018&ref=m_notif&notif_t=group_highlights It was easier to upload the photos to Facebook. Nearly complete interior from an 87 Comanche with a few other misc items. Some pieces are in better shape than others. I don't know what these are valued at, all reasonable offers will be entertained.
  6. Looking for a comanche , auto trans and short bed will travel for right one, located at 85040
  7. My 87 MJ project is almost ready for inspection but my reverse lights are not working. I have tried many things for it to work including changing the bulbs, checked the wire for damages, and checked connections from the switch and at the sockets. I am lost. If someone could point me in a direction that would help I would really appreciate it.
  8. Personal Introduction: My name is Britton and I am an addict...jk but seriously though haha. Career wise I am a mechanical engineer but I prefer to consider myself a jack of many trades and a master of none. I am constantly tinkering on something, working any number of projects, and tossing ideas around in my head constantly (both a blessing a curse). Anyways, I've been into Jeeps since I could drive and this is officially the 4th Jeep I have owned. 1999 2 door XJ 5 speed, 4.0L, 3.5" lift, 265/75/16 BFG ATs on TJ Rubicon wheels, overhead console, cruise control. She was a street queen and truly hated to see it go. Especially since it was my first car with a lot of memories. 1999 XJ 4 door, 4.5" lift, 33x12.5x15 Federal MTs, doorless mod, bedliner floors and headliner. Nothing special made for the woods but not a true beater and I still took care of it Sold both and bought a stock 2005 TJ/LJ Unlimited 6 speed with 78,000 miles. Installed 2.5" suspension lift, 1.25" body lift, 305/70/17 Goodyear MTR/K on JK Moab wheels. Kept it otherwise stock and clean because I started to venture away from tearing things up off-road and prefer mild trail riding and camping now. Then I stumbled into this project...1989 Jeep Comanche MJ. Drivetrain and dash were swapped but not finished and virtually rust free with 4/5 star floor boards compared to a lot of other Comanches. The back story: December 2018: Me: "Dude look at this Comanche! Its half way converted, you think I should buy it?" Friend: "Do it! You always said you wanted to build one. It'll be fun." It is not fun. Well sometimes it was but never again will I take on a project like this. It might just be the straw that broke the camels back. Still undecided... I have a bad habit of getting started on a task and becoming completely focused on completing it then forgetting to take before and after pictures. I usually remember about halfway through that I should've taken before pictures so I apologize in advance and I'll try to explain each picture/process in detail to give the full picture. As bought condition 12/1/18 (Previous owners shop, but wish it was mine): Build Plans: -Full 2000 XJ swap interior, exterior, and drivetrain -Dual gas tanks ~40+ gallons (TJ gas tank behind axle and Dakota gas tank in stock location) -Metallic silver paint -Ford 8.8 rear axle -4.10 gears -Spring over rear -4.5" Rubicon Express front coils (possible spacer to level out) -Rubicon Express control arm drop brackets -JKS Quick Diconnects -ZJ V8 tie rod and draglink -Ten Factory Dana 30 axle seals -JL Rubicon wheels with 285/75/17 BFG KO3s -1.5" wheel spacer adapters (5x4.5 to 5x5) -Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks -WJ control arms -Raptor Liner or LineX bedliner -Custom bed rack -Custom bed rails Teaser shot of the current status as of 9/29/19: I will be posting a full start to finish timeline/explanation/how-to of the build in the days to come to walk everyone through the long process this has been. So stay tuned for that. As of right now (10/10/19) it is currently my daily driver while the LJ is being worked on. Here is a list of things I still need to do on the MJ to make it "100% finished": -Bedliner (probably Raptor Liner) -Restore tailights (maybe LED bulb swap) -Modify and install overhead console (shorten, graft, LED bulbs, and determining mounting) -Reupholster visors to match new headliner, LED bulbs, and install (matching material was provided with it) -Install tailgate (at sand blasting 10/8/19) -Install Dirtbound Manta Ray rear bumper (ordered on 10/7/19) -Replace clock spring (possible WJ steering wheel swap at the same time) -Mount/Install emergency brakes with 8.8 adapter clevis -Fender flares (Very undecided on this. Napier or Notch or just stock trimmed with rubber edging) -Front bumper (JCR Crusader or Dirtbound Mojave. Really like the thought of a hidden winch front bumper and hope these could be modified for that) -Gear swap to 4.10 (front Dana 30 is 3.55 and rear 8.8 is 4.10 so 2WD until then)
  9. Driveway Ornament To Daily Driver A really quite long build thread by Minuit The Beginning: March-November 2012 Why hello there, viewer! If you're reading this for the first time, I think I should probably explain some things first. This build is now entering its fifth sixth year. It started shortly before I turned 16 years old, and I had absolutely no prior mechanical experience, so keep this in mind when reading the first few pages. I can say with absolute certainty that some of the things you see early on in this build were not properly done and should not be used as an example of how to do things! However, I have not edited any of this after posting it other than to remove blatantly wrong information. In the early stages of this build, I am teaching myself how to work on automobiles, and I am doing many of the things you see in the thread for the very first time. This truck was built on April 17, 1991, rolled off the line at Toledo at 12:55 PM, and was purchased new by my grandparents on November 22, 1991 at Underhill Motors in Dickson, TN. In late 2003, its fuel pump failed and the truck was not driven until I took ownership of the truck in 2012. It had not been moved from the spot it was sitting in since it was first parked there in 2003. If you want an exact date, I guess you could say that this build officially began on March 10, 2012 when the fuel pump was first purchased, or April 29, 2012 when the truck was first started and moved under its own power and fuel supply. I take this build very seriously. Every decision I make is carefully thought out. There will be no cutting of fenders, bed bobbing, or 35" tires in this thread. In an attempt to keep at least a fraction of the truck's history intact, I have a few rules that I follow very strictly: 1. No permanent modifications are allowed. The truck must be able to be returned to its completely original form with bolt-on parts only. The only permanent modification (that isn't a repair) to the truck's structure that is allowed is drilling holes that are pre-punched at the factory. Factory options that are added must be done in a way that's indistinguishable from stock to an observer. The specifics might not be stock, but it damn well better look stock. 2. If at all possible, parts should be correct for a 1991 model year truck. Exceptions are allowed if a later model part is clearly superior (for example, 1997+ door limiting straps that prevent damage to the door hinges) If reasonable, the original parts from the truck should be kept. 3. At no time is this truck to be driven off-road without a very, very good reason. I have other vehicles to abuse. 4. Aftermarket customizations are not allowed. Wheels, radios, etc. are to be OEM parts only. If there's a specific goal to this project, it's to create the best, most pure example of a street driven Jeep Comanche I possibly can. Even almost 5 years after starting, that goalpost is a very long way away. Thanks very much for reading, and I hope you enjoy watching this truck's transformation from an algae covered, forgottten driveway ornament to being my dependable daily driver. - Minuit 15 year old me didn't have very good photography skills. This is where this whole adventure began. April 29, 2012 It moved under its own power for the first time in 9 years an hour before this pic was taken. After replacing the fuel pump, the truck started immediately without smoke or hesitation. At this point it had a deep knocking sound coming from the rear of the engine. Although a number of mechanics identified it as a rod knock, it was coming from loose torque converter bolts! Tip: If you are experiencing a loud knocking sound and have an automatic transmission, check first for loose torque converter bolts and/or a cracked flexplate. Tip: A common theme in this thread will be this: Always verify the source of the problem yourself. Eliminate easy solutions first before jumping to the worst possible situation. Not much work happened for a few months, but I did start driving it regularly. I took quite a liking to how it drove and how it looked, even though it still was mangled from a front end collision several years back. I started learning as much about these trucks and how to work on them as possible. Christmas: December 24, 2012 The front end of the truck was damaged by a deer hit sometime in the early 2000s. It looked pretty bad, so new front clip parts were in order. The old front clip. We hammered out the front bumper to flatten it some. It was much worse. The bare header panel. I will eventually need to replace this. It's pretty banged up. Everything unscrews nicely. You remove the grille first, then the side markers, then the headlight buckets. Old and new grilles. You can tell how much color the plastic lost over the years. The new front clip with the old bumper. The new front clip, as it sits today. The shallow wheel caps don't fit over the 2WD wheel bearings. These caps fit perfectly. The valve cover gasket was leaking and the VC itself was losing most of its paint. I copied an idea I'd seen on Jeepforum. I like the look of the stripes a lot better. The old fan shroud had broken in several places and was held together with duct tape. After nearly getting sucked into the fan, I decided it needed to be replaced. There's a big time skip between the first part of this post and the next. At this point I'm 17 years old, and still pretty inexperienced. De-Rustification: May-June 2013 This is where the build thread originally started. The previous chapter was added on later. This chapter will be left unchanged so you can laugh at how naive I was a year and a half ago. Since getting it out from under a tree a year ago, my MJ has been faithfully serving me with very few issues. Even though it's "old", it's kept up with the best in terms of reliability and functionality. Now that school is out now and it's summer, it's time to fix stuff. I figure I have about 11 weeks to get it up and running, better than before. This isn't going to be a complete tear-down and rebuild, but I do certainly plan on going through it meticulously. I'm also trying to keep cost down as money is very tight right now. Here's how it looks today, the second day of teardown. Total cost of restoration: $140 (headliner + sunvisors) The seat before I took it out. It has been covered since the truck was brand new. With some care, it'll be pristine. The one thing all MJ owners dread but will have to eventually come to bear with: the floors. Not bad! From what I can tell, the metal is still sound with no holes. I'm going to get the grinder after this and paint it once I'm done getting the interior apart. As you can see from the first picture, the cowl is covered up with plastic currently because it's leaking water, which is for sure the source of the passenger side rust. The driver's side floorboard is dry, however. I'd say the jute padding is probably ruined. This will probably be a fast-paced build so check back frequently! This truck honestly does not need much to be considered 'restored' so as far as restorations go this is fairly minor. I am a 17 year old unemployed car guy, so that will probably be its own problem. I'm definitely not interested in half-@$$ing this. I'm going to do justice to this truck and fix everything correctly. It may cost more or take more work, but I can deal. Tentative plans for the next month or so: - Renew interior, including new headliner, refreshed seat and interior panels - Repair floorboard rust and plug any water leaks - Replace muffler (it's rattling quite badly) - Repair minor exterior damage (scratches, small dents) - Fix air conditioning (obviously a job for a shop)
  10. SOLD ITEMS Cargo light/switch Steering wheel Instrument cluster Rear bumper Tailgate handle Taillights Door/window rubbers The time has come to let someone else benefit from my lack of time. 86 MJ, engine has just gotten back from the machine shop, not built, and every other part is pulled off of the engine.the body is mostly straight, minus the driver door and the fender. Little rust holes in the floor. All 4 wheels, and a steel spare. 4 speed, 2.5 renix tbi. Camper shell. 1000 obo for the whole mess. 300 for engine, 300 for trans. 150 each axle. 150 for t/c. Open to offers. I will sell each and every piece separately or you can be the proud owner of the whole thing. Complete truck, engine had a knock, so I began to rebuild it. Paint is faded. PM with any questions. Willing to negotiate. Open for trades, no title
  11. I am new to the her community and decided to start my first project, a ‘90 MJ. I have spent numerous hours trying to figure out why the driver side taillights are working but the passenger side isn’t. The previous owner butchered up the whole rear lighting harness. So I grabbed one off of another MJ and spliced them together hoping it would fix the issue. It did not change anything. I checked fuses and they are fine. Checked my ground wire on the rear driver side and it’s okay. Any other ideas to look into? Any information helps.
  12. So first, lemme preface this by saying that i have always wanted to build a 97+ converted MJ, in fact i have spent a few years researching the swap and i finally had things lined up to do the swap, including 2001 XJ and an 89 MJ... But life happened and i had to relocated from Florida to Kansas. I had spent several months using a website the searches all of craigslist looking for something interesting to pick up when i came across this. It was 1,000 miles away in New Mexico, made the 26 hour drive in 30. A built Comanche that had been converted to the 99 XJ drivetrain with a 2001 XJ Limited interior. Literally my dream swap. I believe that the 99' is is the best year of the 4.0. So these are the specs the day i bought her: ****Motor**** - Freshly rebuilt 99 4.0 bore over .30 - Bored throttle body - High Volume Melling oil pump - Eddlebrock duel outlet header - High flow intake manifold - Brown Dog motor mounts - IranMan4x4 Brackets ****Drivetrain**** -AX15 5 speed with a new clutch - Np231 transfer case with Chevy HD widechain and gears - 6 pinion planetary ****Suspension**** - 6.5 inch lift - SOA in rear - Spartan lockers - 3.55 gears - 29 spline shafts - Terra Flex high steer - Rubicon Express lower arms - Adjustable Rough Country upper arms - Rubicon Express double sheer track bar - BDS Shocks ****Exterior**** - Loans Metal Products front bumper - Warn 9.5ti winch - 4 LED Pod lights - Bushwacker fender flares ****Interior**** - Interior from a 1999 XJ limited - Heated leather power adjustable seats from a 2001 XJ - Wood grain interior - Correct two window switch installed Some pictures from the day i bought her: Things I have done since having her: - Fox 2.0 shocks up front - Fox 2.0 Steering stabilizer - Rebuilt the winch by replacing the solenoids and cleaning and re-greasing the gears - Reqired the LED lights so they are not a fire hazard and work with the factory fog light switch - Installed a WJ Overland wooden steering wheel with radio controls - Installed IronMan4x4 steering box brace with sector shaft support - IronMan4x4 Steering box bracket / spacer - Rough Country Floor mats - Spooled up some synthetic winch line Here are some pictures of what i have done since having her: And this is what I am currently in the process of doing (I have the parts ready to install): - Installing my OR-Fab bumper and warn M8000-S winch with Rigid LED lights installed on the bumper (from my old 99 XJ) - Creating a new headboard with overhead speakers and the full length XJ limited overhead console - Installing the stock XJ Limited tweeters - Getting the steering wheel radio controls to work with a WJ clock spring Some of my long term plans: - Rear mounted winch - X-Max fender flares - Two tone gloss black and Rhino Line matte black - 4 link suspension - 4.7 stroker - Dana 44 front and rear - Creating a logic board to make my steering wheel radio controls be able to select between front or rear winch, then be able to winch out and in Thank you very much for viewing!! I hope it was worth your time and id love to hear some thoughts and ideas!
  13. Hello everyone! I'm new here. I'm an owner of a 88 Jeep Comanche Pioneer with 73k miles. I inherited this vehicle from my late father who spent a lot of time getting the vehicle roadworthy again. I'm a little mechanically inclined, so I'm working on it bit by bit and learning as I go, since I've received this vehicle, I've replaced the leaking fuel injectors with better ones, I think avoiding a fire while driving it is a priority lol. My next thing to do is replacing the clutch master cylinder since I realized it's leaking on the fuse box! Luckily the damage wasn't to bad, I just cleaned it and changed 2 damaged fuses, works just fine now. I will be posting my progress with repairs over time. More pictures to come soon!
  14. I have 4 different jeep model parts for sale. Keep in your mind not everything is for sale u see in pic for example I don't sell engine, transmission, transfer case, drive shafts and few other but just ask on what parts u need or want, i won't bite u! Lol. location in Wayne, WV. 25570 Note: make a offer on every parts I priced. Start with Comanche MJ SOLD $25 + shipping come with both mirrors $100 each 3/4 gauge both are speedo cable Cab vent $25 each or 2 for $40 Radio out of 87 MJ Male and female connector include $100 Both are driver side, little damaged but overall pretty good shape $50 each 1-SOLD 1-Available Silver dash $75 SOLD All for $50 SOLD Solid rear window $40 pick up or $40 plus shipping Clock $25 each all been tested and work! $75 pick up only As u see in picture there is stain, but no tear/rip or hole. It have headrest! Now for XJ parts out one is 96 and one is 98 police pkg, there isnt much police pkg parts left. I was told that Police pkg have LSD in Dana 35. Any parts u don't see in picture just ask thanks PM for parts u need and i will give u the price. Driver side taillight $20 + shipping $30 each + shipping HVAC control $30 + shipping $20 + shipping Factory radio $20 + shipping Now for 99 WJ 4.0 parts Radiator $30 + shipping Cluster $50 + shipping More pic of WJ For TJ $20 + shipping Came out 89 XJ TCM $50 + shipping Misc. parts for most model Wheel cap $25 + shipping SOLD- 3.5" lift coil spring I believe it Rusty brand $50 + shipping
  15. 1989 Jeep Comanche 4.0L in-line 6, Manual 4wd, rear axle d35 3.08 Located in Wisconsin Still drives but for now only in 4wd Exterior: purple, Interior: Dark red w/ bench, Floor shift
  16. I was asked to start a build thread on a 1988 comanche /98 cherokee update. So here goes. I don't find that the swap is very difficult as both trucks are based off the same unibody but with 10 years difference there are subtle changes. The old mj was renix era and used a GM steering column shift included. The xj uses obd2 and floor shift. The hole through the firewall for column will have to be relocated close to brake booster. Measure and holesaw this. Not real big deal. The hvac box is pretty direct. Redrill the lower bolt by fan motor and slightly elongate 2 directly behind motor. The old mj steering column mount just dropped down from firewall. Drill out all spotwelds and toss it. The newer xj mount is a big aluminum piece that also bolts to left kick panel. These will need to be redrilled and the old mj ebrake bracket and studs should be removed also. The mj door strikers will need to be replaced with xj parts. Again some redrilling with careful measurements should do it. I’ve tried to upload pics but it’s super slow. Follow me on IG @88_comanche_chief. They are all there
  17. I’m trying to swap a 1992 XJ gauge cluster out a “country” package, into my 1988 MJ Pioneer. I can’t seem t find a proper wiring diagram for either of the models gauge cluster plugs and need some help. I have to use the XJ clusters plug so I need to splice it into the MJs wiring, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  18. Hey everyone my name is tyler, I am new to the forums and am in the process of building up my 1990 jeep comanche 4x4. This is my second comanche and I'm building it as a daily driver that will get me through the harsh canadian winters and see some moderate 4x4ing as well as shuttling mountain bikes where ever i ride.
  19. Finally joined the Comanche club a couple months ago. This is a 1988 4.0 5-speed 4x4 with 180k on the odo. Exactly, what I had been searching for... a shortbed, 4wd, manual with a 4.0. Currently, I am wrestling with some electrical gremlins and goblins. Learning Renix has been interesting, to say the least. Not on the road just yet but, once I am finished sorting out the wiring it should be good to go.
  20. Looking for a drivers side switch panel for windows and locks for a MJ/two door Cherokee part #55002135. Updated and Edited 9/8/2018: I purchase the seal from Dzimm and I am still looking to see if anyone is willing to sell the driver's side window and door lock switch panel to me.
  21. Looking to trade my bucket seats from my 89 MJ for a bench seat. Located in Western New York. Willing to buy as well but would like to trade even if possible. We can trade center consoles as well so both match the new seats. I drive a stick but it should still work for an automatic.
  22. Hello Everyone!!! I am officially new to the site, but have been browsing for quite some time as this is the best source of information for my new jeep project. I few months back I was lucky enough to pick up an 88 MJ in good shape. it has the 2.5L, so it is kind of a dog but I'm not trying to race anyone or do any rock crawling at the moment. However, I am in the process of installing a 4.5 Rusty's long arm kit, and ran into an issue late into the project last night; I set the lower arms to right specializations (35 3/8" eye to eye only about 3 full rotations of the joint) and mounted them from the cross-member to the axle, but the axle seems too far forward. After calling it a night I have been doing some research; and I know my geometry on the front axle is all jacked up currently, but could my lower arms be too long? I am pretty sure my manual transmission is an AX5 (since it is the 2.5L), but I recall that the trans cross-member is in different locations of about 2" between the AX15 and the Peugeot(87-89???). The only years that Rusty's notes a difference is 87-89 due to the Peugeot mounting a couple inches forward, but does the AX5 and the AX15 mount at the same location? Thanks!
  23. Saw this 91 Comanche for sale near me and I'm pretty tempted to buy it. Seems a little high and the rust/odo (estimates at 67k) worries me, but seems like a pretty nice rig otherwise and 4x4s go for a premium up here. Price has dropped to $6500 with room to barter. What do you all think? http://jeepcomancheforsale.com/1991-pioneer-ax15np231d44-anchorage-ak/
  24. I have a 1989 comanche eliminator. Inline 6, 4x4, AX15, 3 inch lift. Been driving fine. Just bought it a couple weeks ago. Has a bit of high idle. Leaks here and there. Smallest amount of coolant in oil but it does have 268k miles. Gonna do the head gasket and such soon. I drove it and parked it, no problem. Blinkers stopped working but was going to look in to that. Been following Cruiser54's tips for sprucing up grounds, adding some, etc. Will keep doing them as i go. The next morning after i parked it in my swamp of a driveway, it wouldnt start. Normally i turn the key and the pump primes, its loud. I can hear it while driving but it seemed fine. Definitely noticeable. This time, no prime. So being before work i didnt do much besides bang on the tank and switch the relays around, nothing. After work, i checked ballist resistor, 1.1 ohms, bypassed anyways to no avail. The relay was swapped around with all the rest so that rules out the relay. I checked for power at pump, i get 6 volts off of the plug for pump with key in on position. I'm thinking that's kinda low. I also get 6 volts if i hook up the wire (bypassed ballist resistor) to my meter and ground it on body. So I'm sure its getting to the pump but maybe not enough? I also did Cruiser54's tip of adding a independent ground on the pumps harness just to be sure as well as clean ground behind taillight housing. I have power on pin 30 of relay and switched ignition power on pin i believe 85 (trying to remember what pins are what). I tried jumping power to the pump and that didn't work. I also removed the pump (before i added the extra ground point to it) and hooked it to the battery for a split second, and it did run. So I'm positive the pump itself is okay. Right now I'm working on tracing wires and connections and sprucing up plugs, etc. I tried looking around other forums, etc for ideas but I'm not sure at this point. Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  25. I know there are many threads that explain this procedure but another won't hurt from someone elses experience. So, this weekend I am starting the dual diaphragm conversion on my 1989 MJ. To start off, here are the tools and equipment I have so far: 1996 XJ Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (bought off of JC Whitney) $170 (2) 3/16 diameter bubble flared with 10mm fitting brake lines STANDARD flare tool (rented from auto parts store) (1) 12mm thread 3/16 diameter line, fitting (1) Vacuum Tool (4) 10mm stop or lock nuts (1) Line cutter The four 10mm nuts are for the brake booster. The other two bolts on the other side can use the nuts off of the stock MJ booster. I chose to buy the bubble flare lines because the 1996 MC takes bubble flare ends and not double flared. The MJ distribution valve body DOES take double flare though. So, I am going to have to flare one end of each line using the standard flare tool. Also, one of the ports on the 1996 MC takes a 12mm fitting which I will have to slide on the line before flaring again. 1996 XJ brake booster 1996 XJ master cylinder currently being bench bled using vacuum tool Vacuum tool This tool made the bleeding process a little easier. There are many ways to do it. Putting each of the hoses from both fittings into the bottle and pushing the rod in, will have the same effect. I did both methods just to be sure. That is where I am at right now. Tomorrow I will start the upgrade!! :wrench: Also there will be lots of more pictures! :clapping: :thumbsup:
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