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Found 99 results

  1. Hello everyone! I'm new here. I'm an owner of a 88 Jeep Comanche Pioneer with 73k miles. I inherited this vehicle from my late father who spent a lot of time getting the vehicle roadworthy again. I'm a little mechanically inclined, so I'm working on it bit by bit and learning as I go, since I've received this vehicle, I've replaced the leaking fuel injectors with better ones, I think avoiding a fire while driving it is a priority lol. My next thing to do is replacing the clutch master cylinder since I realized it's leaking on the fuse box! Luckily the damage wasn't to bad, I just cleaned it and changed 2 damaged fuses, works just fine now. I will be posting my progress with repairs over time. More pictures to come soon!
  2. Driveway Ornament To Daily Driver A really quite long build thread by Minuit The Beginning: March-November 2012 Why hello there, viewer! If you're reading this for the first time, I think I should probably explain some things first. This build is now entering its fifth sixth year. It started shortly before I turned 16 years old, and I had absolutely no prior mechanical experience, so keep this in mind when reading the first few pages. I can say with absolute certainty that some of the things you see early on in this build were not properly done and should not be used as an example of how to do things! However, I have not edited any of this after posting it other than to remove blatantly wrong information. In the early stages of this build, I am teaching myself how to work on automobiles, and I am doing many of the things you see in the thread for the very first time. This truck was built on April 17, 1991, rolled off the line at Toledo at 12:55 PM, and was purchased new by my grandparents on November 22, 1991 at Underhill Motors in Dickson, TN. In late 2003, its fuel pump failed and the truck was not driven until I took ownership of the truck in 2012. It had not been moved from the spot it was sitting in since it was first parked there in 2003. If you want an exact date, I guess you could say that this build officially began on March 10, 2012 when the fuel pump was first purchased, or April 29, 2012 when the truck was first started and moved under its own power and fuel supply. I take this build very seriously. Every decision I make is carefully thought out. There will be no cutting of fenders, bed bobbing, or 35" tires in this thread. In an attempt to keep at least a fraction of the truck's history intact, I have a few rules that I follow very strictly: 1. No permanent modifications are allowed. The truck must be able to be returned to its completely original form with bolt-on parts only. The only permanent modification (that isn't a repair) to the truck's structure that is allowed is drilling holes that are pre-punched at the factory. Factory options that are added must be done in a way that's indistinguishable from stock to an observer. The specifics might not be stock, but it damn well better look stock. 2. If at all possible, parts should be correct for a 1991 model year truck. Exceptions are allowed if a later model part is clearly superior (for example, 1997+ door limiting straps that prevent damage to the door hinges) If reasonable, the original parts from the truck should be kept. 3. At no time is this truck to be driven off-road without a very, very good reason. I have other vehicles to abuse. 4. Aftermarket customizations are not allowed. Wheels, radios, etc. are to be OEM parts only. If there's a specific goal to this project, it's to create the best, most pure example of a street driven Jeep Comanche I possibly can. Even almost 5 years after starting, that goalpost is a very long way away. Thanks very much for reading, and I hope you enjoy watching this truck's transformation from an algae covered, forgottten driveway ornament to being my dependable daily driver. - Minuit 15 year old me didn't have very good photography skills. This is where this whole adventure began. April 29, 2012 It moved under its own power for the first time in 9 years an hour before this pic was taken. After replacing the fuel pump, the truck started immediately without smoke or hesitation. At this point it had a deep knocking sound coming from the rear of the engine. Although a number of mechanics identified it as a rod knock, it was coming from loose torque converter bolts! Tip: If you are experiencing a loud knocking sound and have an automatic transmission, check first for loose torque converter bolts and/or a cracked flexplate. Tip: A common theme in this thread will be this: Always verify the source of the problem yourself. Eliminate easy solutions first before jumping to the worst possible situation. Not much work happened for a few months, but I did start driving it regularly. I took quite a liking to how it drove and how it looked, even though it still was mangled from a front end collision several years back. I started learning as much about these trucks and how to work on them as possible. Christmas: December 24, 2012 The front end of the truck was damaged by a deer hit sometime in the early 2000s. It looked pretty bad, so new front clip parts were in order. The old front clip. We hammered out the front bumper to flatten it some. It was much worse. The bare header panel. I will eventually need to replace this. It's pretty banged up. Everything unscrews nicely. You remove the grille first, then the side markers, then the headlight buckets. Old and new grilles. You can tell how much color the plastic lost over the years. The new front clip with the old bumper. The new front clip, as it sits today. The shallow wheel caps don't fit over the 2WD wheel bearings. These caps fit perfectly. The valve cover gasket was leaking and the VC itself was losing most of its paint. I copied an idea I'd seen on Jeepforum. I like the look of the stripes a lot better. The old fan shroud had broken in several places and was held together with duct tape. After nearly getting sucked into the fan, I decided it needed to be replaced. There's a big time skip between the first part of this post and the next. At this point I'm 17 years old, and still pretty inexperienced. De-Rustification: May-June 2013 This is where the build thread originally started. The previous chapter was added on later. This chapter will be left unchanged so you can laugh at how naive I was a year and a half ago. Since getting it out from under a tree a year ago, my MJ has been faithfully serving me with very few issues. Even though it's "old", it's kept up with the best in terms of reliability and functionality. Now that school is out now and it's summer, it's time to fix stuff. I figure I have about 11 weeks to get it up and running, better than before. This isn't going to be a complete tear-down and rebuild, but I do certainly plan on going through it meticulously. I'm also trying to keep cost down as money is very tight right now. Here's how it looks today, the second day of teardown. Total cost of restoration: $140 (headliner + sunvisors) The seat before I took it out. It has been covered since the truck was brand new. With some care, it'll be pristine. The one thing all MJ owners dread but will have to eventually come to bear with: the floors. Not bad! From what I can tell, the metal is still sound with no holes. I'm going to get the grinder after this and paint it once I'm done getting the interior apart. As you can see from the first picture, the cowl is covered up with plastic currently because it's leaking water, which is for sure the source of the passenger side rust. The driver's side floorboard is dry, however. I'd say the jute padding is probably ruined. This will probably be a fast-paced build so check back frequently! This truck honestly does not need much to be considered 'restored' so as far as restorations go this is fairly minor. I am a 17 year old unemployed car guy, so that will probably be its own problem. I'm definitely not interested in half-@$$ing this. I'm going to do justice to this truck and fix everything correctly. It may cost more or take more work, but I can deal. Tentative plans for the next month or so: - Renew interior, including new headliner, refreshed seat and interior panels - Repair floorboard rust and plug any water leaks - Replace muffler (it's rattling quite badly) - Repair minor exterior damage (scratches, small dents) - Fix air conditioning (obviously a job for a shop)
  3. I have 4 different jeep model parts for sale. Keep in your mind not everything is for sale u see in pic for example I don't sell engine, transmission, transfer case, drive shafts and few other but just ask on what parts u need or want, i won't bite u! Lol. location in Wayne, WV. 25570 Note: make a offer on every parts I priced. Start with Comanche MJ SOLD $25 + shipping come with both mirrors $100 each 3/4 gauge both are speedo cable Cab vent $25 each or 2 for $40 Radio out of 87 MJ Male and female connector include $100 Both are driver side, little damaged but overall pretty good shape $50 each Silver dash $75 SOLD All for $50 Solid rear window $40 pick up or $40 plus shipping Clock $25 each all been tested and work! $75 pick up only As u see in picture there is stain, but no tear/rip or hole. It have headrest! Now for XJ parts out one is 96 and one is 98 police pkg, there isnt much police pkg parts left. I was told that Police pkg have LSD in Dana 35. Any parts u don't see in picture just ask thanks PM for parts u need and i will give u the price. Driver side taillight $20 + shipping $30 each + shipping HVAC control $30 + shipping $20 + shipping Factory radio $20 + shipping Now for 99 WJ 4.0 parts Radiator $30 + shipping Cluster $50 + shipping More pic of WJ For TJ $20 + shipping Came out 89 XJ TCM $50 + shipping Misc. parts for most model Wheel cap $25 + shipping SOLD- 3.5" lift coil spring I believe it Rusty brand $50 + shipping
  4. I was asked to start a build thread on a 1988 comanche /98 cherokee update. So here goes. I don't find that the swap is very difficult as both trucks are based off the same unibody but with 10 years difference there are subtle changes. The old mj was renix era and used a GM steering column shift included. The xj uses obd2 and floor shift. The hole through the firewall for column will have to be relocated close to brake booster. Measure and holesaw this. Not real big deal. The hvac box is pretty direct. Redrill the lower bolt by fan motor and slightly elongate 2 directly behind motor. The old mj steering column mount just dropped down from firewall. Drill out all spotwelds and toss it. The newer xj mount is a big aluminum piece that also bolts to left kick panel. These will need to be redrilled and the old mj ebrake bracket and studs should be removed also. The mj door strikers will need to be replaced with xj parts. Again some redrilling with careful measurements should do it. I’ve tried to upload pics but it’s super slow. Follow me on IG @88_comanche_chief. They are all there
  5. I’m trying to swap a 1992 XJ gauge cluster out a “country” package, into my 1988 MJ Pioneer. I can’t seem t find a proper wiring diagram for either of the models gauge cluster plugs and need some help. I have to use the XJ clusters plug so I need to splice it into the MJs wiring, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  6. So first, lemme preface this by saying that i have always wanted to build a 97+ converted MJ, in fact i have spent a few years researching the swap and i finally had things lined up to do the swap, including 2001 XJ and an 89 MJ... But life happened and i had to relocated from Florida to Kansas. I had spent several months using a website the searches all of craigslist looking for something interesting to pick up when i came across this. It was 1,000 miles away in New Mexico, made the 26 hour drive in 30. A built Comanche that had been converted to the 99 XJ drivetrain with a 2001 XJ Limited interior. Literally my dream swap. I believe that the 99' is is the best year of the 4.0. So these are the specs the day i bought her: ****Motor**** - Freshly rebuilt 99 4.0 bore over .30 - Bored throttle body - High Volume Melling oil pump - Eddlebrock duel outlet header - High flow intake manifold - Brown Dog motor mounts - IranMan4x4 Brackets ****Drivetrain**** -AX15 5 speed with a new clutch - Np231 transfer case with Chevy HD widechain and gears - 6 pinion planetary ****Suspension**** - 6.5 inch lift - SOA in rear - Spartan lockers - 3.55 gears - 29 spline shafts - Terra Flex high steer - Rubicon Express lower arms - Adjustable Rough Country upper arms - Rubicon Express double sheer track bar - BDS Shocks ****Exterior**** - Loans Metal Products front bumper - Warn 9.5ti winch - 4 LED Pod lights - Bushwacker fender flares ****Interior**** - Interior from a 1999 XJ limited - Heated leather power adjustable seats from a 2001 XJ - Wood grain interior - Correct two window switch installed Some pictures from the day i bought her: Things I have done since having her: - Fox 2.0 shocks up front - Fox 2.0 Steering stabilizer - Rebuilt the winch by replacing the solenoids and cleaning and re-greasing the gears - Reqired the LED lights so they are not a fire hazard and work with the factory fog light switch - Installed a WJ Overland wooden steering wheel with radio controls - Installed IronMan4x4 steering box brace with sector shaft support - IronMan4x4 Steering box bracket / spacer - Rough Country Floor mats - Spooled up some synthetic winch line Here are some pictures of what i have done since having her: And this is what I am currently in the process of doing (I have the parts ready to install): - Installing my OR-Fab bumper and warn M8000-S winch with Rigid LED lights installed on the bumper (from my old 99 XJ) - Creating a new headboard with overhead speakers and the full length XJ limited overhead console - Installing the stock XJ Limited tweeters - Getting the steering wheel radio controls to work with a WJ clock spring Some of my long term plans: - Rear mounted winch - X-Max fender flares - Two tone gloss black and Rhino Line matte black - 4 link suspension - 4.7 stroker - Dana 44 front and rear - Creating a logic board to make my steering wheel radio controls be able to select between front or rear winch, then be able to winch out and in Thank you very much for viewing!! I hope it was worth your time and id love to hear some thoughts and ideas!
  7. Hey everyone my name is tyler, I am new to the forums and am in the process of building up my 1990 jeep comanche 4x4. This is my second comanche and I'm building it as a daily driver that will get me through the harsh canadian winters and see some moderate 4x4ing as well as shuttling mountain bikes where ever i ride.
  8. Finally joined the Comanche club a couple months ago. This is a 1988 4.0 5-speed 4x4 with 180k on the odo. Exactly, what I had been searching for... a shortbed, 4wd, manual with a 4.0. Currently, I am wrestling with some electrical gremlins and goblins. Learning Renix has been interesting, to say the least. Not on the road just yet but, once I am finished sorting out the wiring it should be good to go.
  9. Looking for a drivers side switch panel for windows and locks for a MJ/two door Cherokee part #55002135. Updated and Edited 9/8/2018: I purchase the seal from Dzimm and I am still looking to see if anyone is willing to sell the driver's side window and door lock switch panel to me.
  10. Looking to trade my bucket seats from my 89 MJ for a bench seat. Located in Western New York. Willing to buy as well but would like to trade even if possible. We can trade center consoles as well so both match the new seats. I drive a stick but it should still work for an automatic.
  11. Hello Everyone!!! I am officially new to the site, but have been browsing for quite some time as this is the best source of information for my new jeep project. I few months back I was lucky enough to pick up an 88 MJ in good shape. it has the 2.5L, so it is kind of a dog but I'm not trying to race anyone or do any rock crawling at the moment. However, I am in the process of installing a 4.5 Rusty's long arm kit, and ran into an issue late into the project last night; I set the lower arms to right specializations (35 3/8" eye to eye only about 3 full rotations of the joint) and mounted them from the cross-member to the axle, but the axle seems too far forward. After calling it a night I have been doing some research; and I know my geometry on the front axle is all jacked up currently, but could my lower arms be too long? I am pretty sure my manual transmission is an AX5 (since it is the 2.5L), but I recall that the trans cross-member is in different locations of about 2" between the AX15 and the Peugeot(87-89???). The only years that Rusty's notes a difference is 87-89 due to the Peugeot mounting a couple inches forward, but does the AX5 and the AX15 mount at the same location? Thanks!
  12. Saw this 91 Comanche for sale near me and I'm pretty tempted to buy it. Seems a little high and the rust/odo (estimates at 67k) worries me, but seems like a pretty nice rig otherwise and 4x4s go for a premium up here. Price has dropped to $6500 with room to barter. What do you all think? http://jeepcomancheforsale.com/1991-pioneer-ax15np231d44-anchorage-ak/
  13. I have a 1989 comanche eliminator. Inline 6, 4x4, AX15, 3 inch lift. Been driving fine. Just bought it a couple weeks ago. Has a bit of high idle. Leaks here and there. Smallest amount of coolant in oil but it does have 268k miles. Gonna do the head gasket and such soon. I drove it and parked it, no problem. Blinkers stopped working but was going to look in to that. Been following Cruiser54's tips for sprucing up grounds, adding some, etc. Will keep doing them as i go. The next morning after i parked it in my swamp of a driveway, it wouldnt start. Normally i turn the key and the pump primes, its loud. I can hear it while driving but it seemed fine. Definitely noticeable. This time, no prime. So being before work i didnt do much besides bang on the tank and switch the relays around, nothing. After work, i checked ballist resistor, 1.1 ohms, bypassed anyways to no avail. The relay was swapped around with all the rest so that rules out the relay. I checked for power at pump, i get 6 volts off of the plug for pump with key in on position. I'm thinking that's kinda low. I also get 6 volts if i hook up the wire (bypassed ballist resistor) to my meter and ground it on body. So I'm sure its getting to the pump but maybe not enough? I also did Cruiser54's tip of adding a independent ground on the pumps harness just to be sure as well as clean ground behind taillight housing. I have power on pin 30 of relay and switched ignition power on pin i believe 85 (trying to remember what pins are what). I tried jumping power to the pump and that didn't work. I also removed the pump (before i added the extra ground point to it) and hooked it to the battery for a split second, and it did run. So I'm positive the pump itself is okay. Right now I'm working on tracing wires and connections and sprucing up plugs, etc. I tried looking around other forums, etc for ideas but I'm not sure at this point. Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  14. I know there are many threads that explain this procedure but another won't hurt from someone elses experience. So, this weekend I am starting the dual diaphragm conversion on my 1989 MJ. To start off, here are the tools and equipment I have so far: 1996 XJ Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (bought off of JC Whitney) $170 (2) 3/16 diameter bubble flared with 10mm fitting brake lines STANDARD flare tool (rented from auto parts store) (1) 12mm thread 3/16 diameter line, fitting (1) Vacuum Tool (4) 10mm stop or lock nuts (1) Line cutter The four 10mm nuts are for the brake booster. The other two bolts on the other side can use the nuts off of the stock MJ booster. I chose to buy the bubble flare lines because the 1996 MC takes bubble flare ends and not double flared. The MJ distribution valve body DOES take double flare though. So, I am going to have to flare one end of each line using the standard flare tool. Also, one of the ports on the 1996 MC takes a 12mm fitting which I will have to slide on the line before flaring again. 1996 XJ brake booster 1996 XJ master cylinder currently being bench bled using vacuum tool Vacuum tool This tool made the bleeding process a little easier. There are many ways to do it. Putting each of the hoses from both fittings into the bottle and pushing the rod in, will have the same effect. I did both methods just to be sure. That is where I am at right now. Tomorrow I will start the upgrade!! :wrench: Also there will be lots of more pictures! :clapping: :thumbsup:
  15. So here it begins, I've always wanted an MJ and when I saw these 2 for $600 couldn't pass them up! They are in ruff shape but they run! one is for parts (no papers) and the other is going to get a makeover...already started this weekend by doing the open cooling conversion, new valve cover gasket and Vent modifications on cover, replaced ALL the vacuum lines and started the newer body conversion on the front end! Keep the MJ's on the road!
  16. Does anyone know if there is a write up on how to swap the newer +97 XJ front doors on to a MJ? I would like to know how involved it is before I go Buy the doors. Thanks
  17. I have a 1991 4.0ho eliminator and plan on tackling an engine rebuild next month. I'm going to drop the pan, again...(I replaced the rear main seal last winter) and need a new head gasket anyway. While I'm in there I'd like to replace the rings as shes burning more oil than I'd like. Is there a "tool of the trade way" to determine what size rings to get? I'd obviously like to get them in advance but I head rumors that back in the early 90's Jeep wasn't the most consistent with their assembly process. I do not want to get the wrong ring size. Also, does anyone have any leads on a good brand to buy?
  18. What fuse controls my 1987 MJ license plate lights? No juice to the bulbs? Everything else (electrical) seems fine. Where I'm from, anything electrical amok after dark is a law enforcement magnet. Cheers, SGTSnacks
  19. Guys, I'm an AutoCAD design engineer and have been looking for CAD Blocks for my '87 MJ 4.0 shortbed. Does anyone have any 2-D CAD templates or know anywhere I can find any? I found a Grand Cherokee, a Patriot and a Wrangler but no 'Manche. Thanks for your help. SouthernBone
  20. I purchased this MJ in October of 2015.. Got it ready for the road and inspection and parked it in November. I will be away from December until April so nothing was being done except lots of comanche club reading! Pictures from the kijiji ad: It's about time to actually start working on the jeep so I will try and keep this build page updated. Mostly with pictures. I live on the Island of Newfoundland, Canada. Saw the ad posting for the Mj in PEI (Prince Edward Island), so that means two ferries and a small road trip to go check it out. Loaded up in a Ford windstar mini van and off I went. Looked at the Jeep, hooked it up to a set of tow dollies, unhooked the rear driveshaft (which to my surprise came off easy) and headed home. Got it home and really sized it up, more rust than I initially thought. So this is going to be a faily big project that I got to "sleep on" all winter. I did however fix the floor rust and few other things that it would need to be inspected and registered. I'm the second owner of this Jeep, I bought it off the original owner who picked it up in '89. Nice older gentleman who said the truck as been sitting in his shop for the past couple years. It only has 155,000kms on it. I was expecting it to have some maintenance needed. I didn't get pictures of the actual nest in the intake box.. One thing I did learn from here is to pull your carpets.. I was kind of nervous about it, seeing as the Jeep came from a Island on the east coast. I shouldn't have been too shocked but I was kind of taken back when I seen the carpet was half the floor Passenger side wasn't as bad Never having done body work before I was kind of discouraged but in the end I think the floor turned out ok. Patch work done and passenger side sealed I did put down some rubber water seal but I'm not too sure if I like it. It doesn't stick as good as I was hoping, but it was colder when I installed it. Looking underneath it was certain rust was going to be my biggest issue with this build I'm planning on a front and rear axle swap, XJ front and the Explorer 8.8 so I'm not too concerned with the axle rust. The frame and body are in overall decent condition. It looks as though the bottom of the doors and the box have been redone before. I did get it inspected, insured and registered before I parked it for the winter. First actual drive.. Can see where the fender meets the door area that it doesn't look factory/lined up properly. It will most likely be cut out for rock rails anyway.
  21. I will finish up the sanding on the body and put on the black doors from the XJ and then I will no longer be able to work on the truck. I started the project in 2015 and then left home for two years, now that I'm home and don't have my own transportation I need to get a car quick to start school. If you search for the "Hawaii Jeeps" you should see most of my build process with this truck. The XJ had 118,000 miles on it, the MJ had 130,000 miles on it. As of right now, it is an empty shell with half of the 2000 XJ body panels on it (I will put the doors on as soon as the new lock pins come in the mail). I am currently sanding down the paint on the comanche panels that was done by the previous owner. I won't paint it since that will allow the buyer to paint it whatever color you would like. I found all the primer, base coat, and clear coat needed here in town priced at $350-$600 depending on the color of the base. I was planning to paint it Silverstone (Late model Cherokee Grey) or Mystic Gold Metallic, (a factory Tacoma color). I have all the Agate interior from the XJ including seats, which are all in great shape. The driver seat has a spot that was rubbed down in the fabric on the left side. I also have brand new extra padded carpet that is charcoal/dark grey colored. I have speakers, wiring, and a small amp for the sound system, (the speakers are brand new Kenwoods). Also I have a role of tint (I believe it's 5%). The original MJ interior panels can be painted Agate to match the XJ vinyl. I bagged up the nuts and bolts for the whole truck and wrote where they went with sharpie. The drive train: 2000 XJ 4.0 litre l6. I have new moog motor mounts, transmission mount, Felpro rear main seal, and Felpro engine gasket set. The transmission is automatic, the transfer case is a Np231 with advance adapters slip yoke eliminator installed professionally. The biggest things that are left on the to-do list include: Fabricate new seat mounts for XJ seats Fabricate or find firewall mounts for gas and brake pedals and get new pedals New front axle (there is only a 2wd axle with no differential in front) Gas tank modifications + fuel pump New paint job If you have any questions or if I left out any important details just let me know. I have a lot invested in the truck and I am asking $3,200 for the whole project. I don't think I can finish it but I would really like to see someone else make it happen. Here are pictures as of now:
  22. Hello again. So I was finally able to get a moment to put my comanche up on Jack stands and get my first real look at what was going on. I had posted a few questions on here before and got some wonderful feedback and now that I am a little more informed, I want to try again. My name is Ant and I just bought my Comanche! It is an 88 Jeep Comanche Cheif. 4.0l Renix 5 speed 4wd Short bed. (Previously I said it was an 87, but the title says differently) The previous owner bought the truck as a project and never began. The Guy he bought it from apparently stopped driving it because the clutch slave cylinder went bad. Seems likely as there is a new slave cylinder in the cab that came with the truck, and the transmission is half out. Whoever started on it broke the trans line off of the original slave cylinder. No big deal as long as i can get it free from the coupler. So... The starter is removed. The bolts to the engine are removed (and have long since been lost apparently, anyone know where I can buy replacements? The RPM or Speedometer cable that hooks into the trans is removed. The Stick is removed. As far as I can tell, the only thing holding the trans in is the mount attached to the crossmember. Is there anything else I need to look for before attempting removal? Puegeot right? Anybody have a relay diagram? What is this Vacuum line for? It passes into the firewall and it is broken. I'm sorry to bother with all these silly questions. I know the information is out there but it becomes very hard to filter through to find what you need. I am not a mechanic. I am a novice car guy. I have worked on my own jeeps plenty but they have been newer cherokees and I learn as I go. When something breaks, I learn how to fix it. I am good with my hands, I just don't know this particular truck yet. And if I took it apart I would know how to fix it but unfortunately many things are already half apart. The Hanes manuals are so vague because they cover 1984-2001 that they are basically no help. If anybody can recommend a better manual more specifically tailored to this truck, I would greatly appreciate it. Furthermore, I am about 10 miles from Philadelphia. I have been looking to outsource some of this work to other people. For instance, the new ignition cylinder I need put in. Could I do it? Yeah probably, but I would rather save myself the frustration and pay someone to replace it. I am also really trying to get this project moving and don't have as much time as I would like. So If you are looking to make a few extra bucks and wouldn't mind coming out to my house to take on a few of these smaller projects, let me know and maybe we connect. Thanks
  23. Hello fellow MJ lovers, My name is Ant and I just bought my Comanche! I have wanted this truck since I was 13 and now as a 24 year old I finally have it. It is an 87 Jeep Comanche Cheif. 4.0l Renix 5 speed 4wd Short bed. I just bought it and I am super excited to start working on it but I am left with some questions. First and foremost, the driveshaft is disconnected as the previous owner started to put in a clutch slave cylinder. I am hoping you guys can help me ot. I have owned 2 cherokees in the past that I have done all my own work on but I have 0 experience with the transmission. First Question: What should I know before attempting to remove the transmission? I have seen a write-up or two on the process but since it is half way apart, what should i look for before removing anything? I don't want to attempt removing the trans until i know that I fully understand the removal and installation process. Second Question: While the trans is out, I figure I may as well have the clutch replaced. This is not a task i want to perform myself, having never done it and not having the proper tools. If i pay someone to install a clutch into the already removed transmission, what should I know before attempting to reinstall the transmission? Sorry for the Newbie questions but I really want to get her back on the road and I have limited resources available to me. I am sure I will have more questions down the road, and I thank you for your help!
  24. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the the bored renix throttle body from http://www.strokedjeep.com and if so what luck they had and any real benefit? Thanks
  25. Swampy

    Fresh meat

    Hey guys, remember that feeling of being a freshman on the first day of highschool? Haha that's me right now. My name is Gabriel, I am from south Florida. I want to thank the admins for approving my membership request. This is like my introductory post, I got my Comanche on July 28th and I have been researching, building, and putting together ever since then. The way I got my manche is interesting, I had a 2003 Yamaha big bear 400 4x4 that I had built up (and I dearly miss) I decided to trade my atv with a guy for 2 jeeps. A 1988 jeep Cherokee pioneer 4x4, and a 1988 Jeep Comanche 2wd. I agreed to the trade and I guess you can I say I came out losing.... in a way. The Cherokee did not run when I got it, was told it would need a new battery. Got a battery and the Cherokee would not start and it has a rod knock. the comanche has holes in the driver side floor board, no taillights, and the transmission needs a new slave cylinder. I b****ed and complained for about 2 days. I decided to make the best of what I have and that's why I am here, my 1988 Jeep Comanche. So pretty much what I have is a 1988 jeep Comanche 2wd shortbed 4spd 2.5l, I believe its a base model pick up. My plan is to build the manche into a do it all kind of rig. Daily Driver, weekend warrior, expedition rig, you name it. I hope to utilize the knowledge here to help me get the build done. I will start a build thread in the next couple of days, and update it as I go. Hopefully it turns out great. Sorry for the long a** introduction guys, talk to ya soon
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