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Showing results for tags 'TRANSMISSION'.
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Hello everyone, unfortunately I have to make this post about a transmission problem. It’s a 1992 with a manual 5 speed. I’m pretty sure it’s the AX-15 and not the Peugeot one but there’s so many other Comanche and Cherokee parts from other years on that thing that I’m not too sure about it. It started when I was on the highway. I sped up to pass someone in the right lane and I start to hear this gradual but sudden whining noise. it didn’t feel any different, except for a little more vibration than usual coming out of the shift knob. So I get off the highway and come to a stop to try out the gears. Reverse, first, and second are all fine, but when you shift into third fourth and fifth you get this nasty vibrating noise. It only happens when you accelerate, and it gets more high pitched when you shift up gears. Like I said it still drives exactly the same, no power loss or anything like that. So if anyone knows anything about it please let me know. I don’t know if or when something bad is going to happen, but I’m guessing it’s a when. -
Looking for a little bit of direction here. I'm in the middle of my ls swap and my next hurdle is shifter linkage. I'm aware of floor shifters, and I'm not against that, but then I would be changing out steering columns to delete the shifter handle. I'm interested if anyone here has come up with any solutions for making the stock column shifter work- part numbers of longer shifter cable (or make model of donor), I could do a lot with pictures of your cable and routing. looking for some direction mainly. Thanks
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So my jeep has been making a weird knocking noise inbetween the tranny & motor. I have read it could be cracked flex plate or loose flex plate bolts. Bolts were tight and I couldn’t really tell if my flex plate was cracked or not so I went ahead and pulled the tranny. Gonna go ahead and change the flex plate (if I got the right one). Any other ideas on why my transmission is making noise? It has also been shifting a very high rpm even after I changed the TPS. Below is the new flex plate and old. Could someone also tell me if it’s the right one?
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Looking to buy an AX15 transmission, bell housing and np231 transfer case with proper spline. The more I can get to do this swap, the better. I have an AW4 I pulled out of my truck that was working okay if you might be looking for one. Thanks for looking.
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Hey guys, I got a problem on my hands with my 1989 MJ 4.0 2WD with the BA10/5 transmission. To start at the first of my problems, my clutch pedal started to feel soggy. I checked the fluid level and it was low, so I topped it off. A week or so later it was soggy again and low so I topped it off again. Doing this over and over I decided to check the master cylinder. It didnt look like it was leaking too bad but it was a little bit, so I changed that out and bled it. After I bled it, it felt great, but then after only driving it around the block it went soggy to zero pressure and then there was fluid leaking between the dust pan and tranny. So I figured it was the slave cylinder all along. I then dropped the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, while I was in there I replaced the clutch and pressure plate as well. Now with everything back together and after bleeding the clutch I get good pressure, but when I start the engine and try to put it in gear it will not allow me to at all, and the clutch pressure starts to slowly fade away. After shutting the engine off it seems like the clutch pressure gradually builds up again. I then bled it again and then pushed in the clutch while I’m gear and had another person try moving the truck. It will not budge. I can hear the clutch moving a little bit by repeatedly pressing the clutch with the engine off. I tried bleeding it several other times and still the same issue occurs. The tranny shifts perfectly while the engine is off and it has fresh fluid. I am stumped on this one guys... as of this moment I am going to try leaving the reservoir cap off over night while the clutch is pressed all the way down to see if any air in the system can work it’s way out. I would really appreciate any of your guys help as I am trying to get this going as soon as possible. Thanks.
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I have an 87 Comanche automatic. It’s not a 4x4, but it was given to me as a gift. I had an issue with a transmission line that came disconnected, and was wondering if this is something that happens often.
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I recently acquired an AX-15 transmission and want to swap out my current BA-10/5 for it. I don't have any donor parts from the original vehicle, so I need to make sure I purchase all the correct components. If I purchase this adapter, I should be able to use the existing x-member and mount, correct? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716007--nv3550--ax15-crossmember-mount-kit-for-jeep-yj-wranglers/ And I know the 4wd shift linkage is different, so I'll need something like this? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/715545--transfer-case-shifter-bracket-jeep-np231/ The X-15 was pulled from a '92 XJ, so I believe I should be ok with the existing hydraulic throwout bearing (I believe '93 and later need the external slave cylinder). I'm placing it in a 1989 MJ, and from what I've read, the later BA-10/5 outputs could be either 21 or 23 spline, so I'm not sure if I need a new input gear for the t-case. Also, is this the correct pilot bearing I would need? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716164--pilot-bearing-750-id-x-1818-od/
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Hello again. So I was finally able to get a moment to put my comanche up on Jack stands and get my first real look at what was going on. I had posted a few questions on here before and got some wonderful feedback and now that I am a little more informed, I want to try again. My name is Ant and I just bought my Comanche! It is an 88 Jeep Comanche Cheif. 4.0l Renix 5 speed 4wd Short bed. (Previously I said it was an 87, but the title says differently) The previous owner bought the truck as a project and never began. The Guy he bought it from apparently stopped driving it because the clutch slave cylinder went bad. Seems likely as there is a new slave cylinder in the cab that came with the truck, and the transmission is half out. Whoever started on it broke the trans line off of the original slave cylinder. No big deal as long as i can get it free from the coupler. So... The starter is removed. The bolts to the engine are removed (and have long since been lost apparently, anyone know where I can buy replacements? The RPM or Speedometer cable that hooks into the trans is removed. The Stick is removed. As far as I can tell, the only thing holding the trans in is the mount attached to the crossmember. Is there anything else I need to look for before attempting removal? Puegeot right? Anybody have a relay diagram? What is this Vacuum line for? It passes into the firewall and it is broken. I'm sorry to bother with all these silly questions. I know the information is out there but it becomes very hard to filter through to find what you need. I am not a mechanic. I am a novice car guy. I have worked on my own jeeps plenty but they have been newer cherokees and I learn as I go. When something breaks, I learn how to fix it. I am good with my hands, I just don't know this particular truck yet. And if I took it apart I would know how to fix it but unfortunately many things are already half apart. The Hanes manuals are so vague because they cover 1984-2001 that they are basically no help. If anybody can recommend a better manual more specifically tailored to this truck, I would greatly appreciate it. Furthermore, I am about 10 miles from Philadelphia. I have been looking to outsource some of this work to other people. For instance, the new ignition cylinder I need put in. Could I do it? Yeah probably, but I would rather save myself the frustration and pay someone to replace it. I am also really trying to get this project moving and don't have as much time as I would like. So If you are looking to make a few extra bucks and wouldn't mind coming out to my house to take on a few of these smaller projects, let me know and maybe we connect. Thanks
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Hey guys, new member here! If this has already been answered somewhere then I apologize, I have not been able to find it! So I’m trying to figure out if the flexplate follows the engine year or the transmission year. I’ve got a ’91 MJ, 4.0, auto, 2wd, column shift, short bed, etc. I recently grenaded a wheel bearing and ruined a spindle, so decided to go ahead and do a 4wheel swap. I bought an almost exact 1990 Comanche but 4x4 and worse body to part out. In doing some research I noticed flexplates are listed by ’87-’90 then ’91-’00. Both seem to have the same specs (164 teeth, 13.83” OD, 12-14 pitch) but have two different part numbers, different weights, and two very different prices. So if I’m using the 1990 transmission/transfer case but keep the 1991 engine, which flexplate do I need to use?? Thank you in advance!
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Ok so I have an 89 jeep comanche 2wd with the 4.0 inline 6 automatic trans. I am thinking of buying this 86 jeep comanche 4wd with Gm 2.8l v6 automatic trans! Will the transfer out of that bolt up to my tans or no!
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Is this a good kit? <AX15 Master Rebuild Kit - Power Torque> Does it include everything I need? Also, any good how-to's or DIY tutorials that y'all know about for a first time rebuilder?
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I have an ax15 out of a 94 cherokee in my 89 4.0 Comanche I am replacing the trans mount but can't find one that fits the trans mount that's in it now from the previous owner (I think it's from a ba10 or something like that) is all cut up so it would fit. Does someone make a mount for an ax15 in a Comanche? Is it something custom I would have to make? What can I do. Thank you. I would post a pic of the old mount but I don't know how.
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ok guys i need some help on deciding how I'm going to proceed with my swap. i have a 87 Jeep Comanche, I6 2wd 5spd stick. i also have a 96 jeep cherokee I6 4x4 Auto trans. I'm wanting to take these 2 and make my Comanche 4x4 with the auto trans, but I'm not quite sure how to do it. I'm doing this because my cherokee rusting out and has a salvage title and on its last leg, the comanche has perfect body and clean title Option one: lots of work, i swap the whole engine transmission t case and ALL the electronics ( harnesses computers dash ect) out of my cherokee into the comanche. this is allot of work and I'm a lil uncomfortable doing that because ive never done it and fear that ill screw it up. the other reason I'm leaning away from this is there is sighs of rigging in the electrical of the charokee before i owned it and i don't want to put bad electrical in, Option two: i take just the Auto trans and tcase and mate them to the engine in the comanche. if i do this i know i need a flex plate that matches my torque converter. But then i have to find some way to wire the auto trans up which i don't know how to do. any tips info or right ups on wiring a auto trans into a Manuel comanche or cherokee? all the help would be much appreciated!!
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A long time ago somebody sent me a link for the metric fittings to use on an AW4 to delete the quick disconnects. They were a metric to AN fitting. That was a laptop or two back in time, so I've lost the link. I think Summit or Jegs sold them. Anyone have any ideas? I hate the quick disconnects with a passion. -
So, stated driving the jeep a bit more. Started to hear knocking, like rod knock. Sucked, cause its a new stroker with less then ~500mi. Some research showed a common mis diagnosis of rod knock turns out to be cracked flex plate. So, I removed inspection plate on the transmission, and used a "snake camera" attached to my cell to look at the plate. And sure enough, there is a fresh crack. From center going to a hole. And some other spider cracks. This good news, as its not the engine. Bad news, though, cause the damn transmission was just installed 3 weeks ago. I always use failure as an opportunity to upgrade. I can't find any performance flex-plates for the Jeep AW4, like billet. Anyone ever see any performance ones? Image Not Found Image Not Found
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Looking to change my 5 speed to an automatic, I'm thinking the AW4 will work. Has anyone swapped these, I know a lot of swaps go from automatic to manual, I've had so many issues with the internal slave that I've decided to go with an automatic. Thanks and love this site!!! -
My name is Eli and I am 15. I bought my first 1987 Comanche base a few months ago. It have a 2.5 4 cyl. engine and 4 speed manual trans. I have already fixed the exhaust on it and changed out the headliner. I really enjoy this truck it is fun to drive and I'm wanting to do a few things to it. I'm wanting to put in a straight 6 engine with a 5 speed manual trans. Replace the dash board/ dash pad with a new one because the one it has now has a huge slit in it. Give it a new paint job, and customize my one light bar/sports rack to put KC lights in the back while still having a box in the bed. These are just a few of the major things I want to do to my truck. If any of you more experienced people out there that can give me a few tips or tricks about this stuff that would be GREATLY appreciated.
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I just purchased my first jeep an well I drove it home guy said no leaks I looked there was none to the naked eye. As soon as I pull in to car port. Low an behold a leak so I crawl under an notice it seems to be coming from where the tranny mates with the motor. Any ideas on how to fix this asap. Since I bought this Lil truck to be my work truck.
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Just bought my second manche three weeks ago to replace the rusted out death trap that was my first. When I bought it I had one symptom of transmission issues. After using reverse I would shift into first and apparently would not seat entirely because as I began to let the clutch out there would be a jarring thud and the trans would kick out of gear. As I have been driving it a few more symptoms have appeared. The first gear thud became increasingly more frequent, it would grind a LOT trying to get it into reverse. I bought and filled up the trans with 75w-90 lucas oil, it took a bottle and change. I don't seem any change for the better. Now sometimes (I believe after highway driving) it is very difficult if not impossible to get into gears. You can hold it half way into gear and try to rpm match but it would still require a fair amount of pressure, though there is no grinding when it does engage. I just pulled into the lot for my office, had to stop on the very steep incline up to the lot, struggled to get it into gear, pulled over the hump, had to two point it into a space and after coming to a stop after the first point could not get it into any gear, reverse or otherwise. I bought fluid for the clutch a few days ago but turns out it was full and when you remove the lid and pump the clutch there are no bubbles (as someone suggested in a different jeep forum) What is recommended? I don't have a lot of money right now and the 5 speed in my 2.5l works great. sould I just swap them till I can get a new trans? is it something simple and stupid I am overlooking? if I do drop the tranny to fix or replace the internal slave cylinder is there a conversion to external slave? I have been reading a lot but I am in dire straights now Thanks guys 90' pioneer 4.0 with the ax-15 internal slave '88 2.5l with the aw-5? donnor truck
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Did a search but nothing came up... I've really only worked on or owned long enough to know 2.5l 86s (4x4 ax4/ax5) before I got myself an 87 4.0l. automatic 4x4...... Now I am totally lost. I noticed the rear driveshaft on my 86s is almost twice as thick as the 87's. What othe differnces are there between them? We found one of three vacuum lines that seem to go to the t-body/intake-manifold via a U shaped hard plastic hose isnt connected to anything and I don't know whats missing here as it is definitely sucking (and hissing). The other lines are attached. Does anyone have a list of what lines/components are supposed to be attached to the t-body vacuums? I followed one larger white hose from the junction clip that is just infront of the tbody to the airbox and engine, the other is a smaller black hose that snakes under the air box - brake booster? Which gauge cluster is supposed to be in an 87? The blue or the black/red? Its obvious someone swapped them at one point since the odometer is meddled with and the temp/oil dials don't work. Also the scratches from the tinsnips used to cut out the gear selector panel are obvious. Good effort though. Some genious removed the CAT - is it necessary for function? I am e-test exempt and have no intentions of driving to california. What is the function of the transmission button on the dash that says power/comfort? -
How the heck do i remove the top two torx bolts on the top of the transmission?! I want to leave the engine in. i have read on a couple different post that they are E12? I don't think a socket wrench will fit between the firewall and back of the engine. I already have the cross member out and the trans and TC on a tranny jack.
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Hi guys, I'm new to this forum so sorry if this has already been covered/asked elsewhere in these forums, but I'm still kinda learning how to navigate. But anyways I've got a 1992 4x4 cherokee loredo, and am in the market looking for a comanche, and I've came across quite a few comanches, but they are all pre-1991 and was wondering what would need to be done (modifications, fabrications, etc) and how hard it would be to swap in EVERYTHING from the cherokee (wiring, harnesses, transmission, t-case, H.O. motor) into the comanche?
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Hey guys, its been quite a while since ive been on here but I'm ready to step up the motor in my 91 Comanche with an AMC 304 and was wondering if i can get any pointers and tips? I have an AMC 304 from a 76 CJ 7. I plan on using an AW4 behind it and an NP231. As far as room in the engine bay, i know it should fit. Ive seen a few people talk about flex plate problems as well as starter problems. Does anybody have any advice on what to do or what these problems may be? I also heard motor mounts are an issue but could be fixed. Let me know of any tips or a link to a write up from someone in the same boat as i am, thanks in advance, Gavin
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Hey guys I really need a manual 5 speed tranny quick and if anyone else has the small triangular vent windows with the locks lmk. Willing to pay good for both items. I'm located in central Florida but don't mind driving to wherever the parts are even if it means heading up a couple states.
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I have a short bed with 5.5inch lift on 38s atm I have a drives haft from a long bed I know the splines match but will the length fit?
