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About DirtyComanche

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    Obsessive Comanche Disorder

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    BC, Canada

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  1. DirtyComanche


    Depends what you're doing. Everyday driving I prefer a manual... Assuming you have some torque to back it up and a decent FI system and some weight to the flywheel that will let you lug it down. Mild 4x4ing I also prefer the manual, along with running snow or mud. More technical stuff and I prefer the auto as it decreases the workload significantly. Stop/go traffic, towing, hauling, I prefer an auto. Obviously modern autos with manual control and decent engine braking also help for that. I'll admit my diesel Dodge with the exhaust brake and 5spd was fun, more so than the auto version, but compared with a more modern diesel (Duramax) or high power gasser the fun does not make up for the pain in the @$$/leg. And I've only ever driving a column shift manual once... Fun, but not sure I'd want to do it all the time. There was a reason the kits to convert them to floor shift were popular. Also the column shift versus floor/console auto thing is dependent on usage and how the gates are set up. I'm pretty tempted to buy a Winters shifter for my XJ because I hate how it works so much.
  2. Get a new/used one. They're typically in the $10-20 range from the wrecker...
  3. There is somewhat universal tailgate handle locks out there, which could be something to look into. It would be great to be able to lock the tailgate with it. Half the reason I leave the topper/canopy on my MJ is so I can lock stuff back there, as it effectively jams the tailgate when locked. I hate it otherwise.
  4. The crossmember holes are in the same place. It's just the drop that's different. Or at least it's close enough that it should work. Mine has an AX-5 crossmember.
  5. I'd try a new set of motor mounts. They're cheap. Just put them in loose and try to get everything lined up. Did you buy a new trans mount too? Make sure it's in the right way, and the holes do have some play so leave it loose too until you get everything started.
  6. One of the local equipment dealers sells aircooled Ricardo diesels. I've debated it.
  7. If they wave I'll wave back. Unless angry grill, otherwise it doesn't matter what they're driving as long as it's a Jeep or modded 4x4. I don't really care for waving at soccer moms, but at the same time I don't really have anything to lose.
  8. Yeah, that's an airbag column and steering wheel. So parts robbed from a 96 XJ? I'd say I have concerns about the quality of the work done to the truck just from that single picture.
  9. If it's from a wrecker that doesn't totally care, I'd just cut the hoses. Easier that fighting with them. Buying used hoses is like buying used underwear anyways, so most wreckers will not care at all if you snip them. If they're real seized in there you will probably round them (even with flare wrenches) before getting them out anyways. Steering shaft attaches the same way, take the clamp bolt out and spread it with a screwdriver if needed. Maybe take a pickle fork for extra mangling action on the drag link end. The pitman arm normally goes with the box when a wrecker sells it.
  10. It's almost identical to the other crossmembers but they dropped the middle of it by about an inch.
  11. Good point on the studs for the crossmember. I looked right at it and didn't register that it is a stud and that they were studs from the factory. Tip for OP to remove it, spin two nuts part way down on it and tighten the nuts gorilla tight to each other, but do not tighten them against the uniframe. If you have them tight enough against each other you should be able to put a wrench on one of the locked together nuts and turn the stud out. Worst case the studs will strip or break rather than coming out, and you can carefully trim the stud off with a die grinder, angle grinder, dremel, hacksaw, etc. There's a decent chance that with the studs out of the way the crossmember will more or less just go where it wants to. That other hole may have a broken bolt in it, or it might just be dirt... Worst case you do not need to put a bolt in it, as the XJ did not have them. Personally I'd fix it, but I know lots of trucks don't have them. Also good point on the 2wd shafts with the rubber isolator in them. They are throwaway and not recommended to be cut down.
  12. Your crossmember is NOT 4-6" too far back. Currently it is about 1" too far back. With the AX-15, AW4, and NV3550 it goes in the back two sets of threaded holes in the uniframe. You can see the forward holes for the rear set of holes in this picture. My personal guess is that you have a few things not quite right and it's caused enough of a stackup of tolerances to get you here. My first bet is you have the transmission mount (the rubber part) on backwards. Yes, it goes one way, it's got a slope to it and it goes with the high part forwards. From there I bet you have the mount plate not pushed as far forwards as it should be where it bolts to the bottom of the tranny, there is some slop in these holes. Also, I believe you have the wrong crossmember, it looks like the original BA one, you can get away with using it but it isn't quite right as it pushes the transmission higher, you may have contact issues. You may need to loosen all mount related hardware, and even the motor mount bolts slightly, in order to push everything forwards a bit. The hole for the shifter was addressed before. It is in a different place and shape in that floor cover plate depending on transmission. I would look for the right one or hog the hole out. Well, honestly I'd hog the hole out, but I've got some fabrication experience. As to you front driveshaft, I have no idea what you got it from. There is a bunch of different lengths based on configuration, I forget which are longest. They also have a slip yoke so they will telescope. Using the wrong crossmember won't help this as the output is higher. What pilot bearing did you find that would fit? AFAIK there is no pilot bearing that is the correct dimensions to do what you're doing. There is a bushing, but bushing =/= bearing.
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