pizzaman09

Agreed, I replaced my stock linkage with one like above, it allows for much better shifts of the transfer case.

Making some more progress on the power side of the snow blower. We have put together 32kWh of grid storage LiFe cells. There are four identical packs running 16 series and 2 parallel on the cells. We procured an EG4 12000XP off grid inverter to charge the batteries and act as a home backup power supply running off of these batteries. There will be two identical 20hp brushed DC 48 volt motors driving the blower via V-belts.

There is no tow rating that I'm aware of. It would not be legal for me to tow anything with it on the road in PA on the antique plate anyway. I've towed several things with it on private property and it works great at low speeds. First gear is a granny gear so it's super easy to maneuver around.

An outside temperature readout would have been nice.

I went around the block a couple times with the coolant pressure bottle on my Renix 4.0L. The original bottle had a leak at the side hose barb. First bottle from Rock Auto had a pinhole leak at the center tank seam. Second bottle from Rock Auto also had a leak from the center tank seam. Third bottle, a Dorman 603-300 ordered off Amazon didn't leak but the cap didn't hold enough pressure. So I swapped the factory original cap onto it and it now holds pressure perfectly and doesn't overheat.

This is looking amazing. Where did you get a new shifter rubber a dust cap from? That's on my list of need to do.

Check to see if the manifold header bolts are tight where the exhaust and intake bolt to the head. That can cause all sorts of weird idle issues.

I believe you'll need to source one, I saw on a recent post that there are three different versions depending on year.

Based on the license plate number that was registered in PA somewhere around 2017-2018 as it's one series after the PA plate I have on my MJ. That one appears to be crusty but has some nice options. The price seems good considering the options, you are definitely correct it's 2026 and prices are up.

1999 for me, I've owned 4 from that year. 1999 BMW M3 1999 Alpina B12 1999 Jeep Cherokee 1999 Lotus Esprit 1999 Suzuki Carry (This is actually mine)

Awesome place!

I've recently purchased an inductive heater, about $160 from Amazon. It's one of the best tool purchases I've ever made, almost a miracle cure for rusted on hardware. A set of bolt extractors used on the end of an air hammer are also quite useful. This truck is luck to have found you, Daisy is a lucky gal. I'm jealous of your 1991 Eliminator graphics, they are so much cooler than the earlier Eliminator graphics.

Thanks for following up with the solution! Mystery drive line and suspension sounds are the most challenging to solve.

If your good at welding, you could build up a bit of material right under where the bolts hit in the exhaust header and grind and file it to height to match the intake. Or you could machine or file down the intake to match the exhaust.

My parents used to have that issue in their 97 ZJ with the 4.0L. It was primarily caused by a cracked exhaust header that the crack closed up when the exhaust heated up. It also needed a new O2 sensor, which significantly reduced the stumbles even though we never fixed the exhaust header crack.