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Under the hood, your mostly looking to add a heat barrier and some sound absorptions doesn’t hurt. For that purpose, the factory fiberglass liner was great. It could be slightly improved upon but most aftermarket products will take a lot of work to fit all the contours and provide the same level of coverage. So even though there may be a superior product, I don’t believe you will necessarily get superior coverage.

There are a variety of dryers available some with the port and some without. Vintage air or jeep air both carry a simple inline T adapter for your sensor. You just need to verify what the thread size is. The lower condenser-to-dryer hose is a high pressure line. Possibly called the “discharge” line.

4.56 gears would be my vote. I run 4.56 with metric 33’s that run almost a perfect actual 33” diameter.

Once you go LS, you won’t go back

Well, I guess just to add to the conversation, after having built many a 4.0 and stroker variations thereof, an LS swap is my go to and I don’t look back. That being said, the best bang for buck was a stock 4.0 bored .060, with an edelbrock head, decked down for an .038 quench and about 10.75:1 compression ratio. That engine build was a few grand but less than my other strokers. With 4.56, my aw4 and 33’s, It performed admirably. But still no where close to a true LS swap. I’d like to try forced induction as well on a 4.0 as it would be a good candidate. But ultimately, it’s a tractor engine with a terribly outdated design. I don’t mean to disparage it to much but realistically, you don’t really notice an extra 40hp on a 4.0 given the power band. And you can sink a ton of money into them with very little to show for it. Even at 300hp, still feels like an anemic boat anchor. Forced induction, gears, or an engine swap would be my go to. And gears would by far be the most cost effective of the three.

9” and HP44?

I don’t think I’ve ever seen an HO XJ/MJ without ac. That being said, the engineers who designed these harnesses had a propensity towards over complication of wire routing. The actual circuit connections are quite simple. Once you have the ac hvac control deck and wiring connector, splicing in what you need shouldn’t be a problem. Basically you get an AC select signal (don’t recall if it’s ground or 12v + but it comes from the ac control deck) that goes to the ecu. The ecu then sends out an ac request signal that goes through the AC pressure sensor. The ecu then has a compressor trigger output that will go to the ground terminal of a 20a relay to kick in the compressor. Ultimately, you could bypass some of the computer controls of the AC but you will loose some features such as idle kick, and provisions to turn off the compressor with different engine parameters such as wide open throttle and engine overheating conditions or whatever logic the ecu is programmed with for ac control.

Do you hear a “click” sound when you press the power button?

The shallow depth speakers are not bad at all. Lots or oems used them. They tend to be a bit limited on excursion but that’s not universally applicable. BMW tends to run 4” door speakers and sail panel tweeters. But their speaker placement is normally much higher up on the door than our trucks. The higher placement is very good for stereo imaging and has the added benefit of getting the tweeter and woofer closer together in a 2 way component setup. For the Comanche, the knee panel tweeters were a decent attempt at getting the tweeter and woofer closer together but the aiming is quite bad. A properly designed coaxial speaker such as a Morel integra is a great fit in the stock door locations as they properly recess the tweeter to get it in the acoustic center of the woofer. Provides a nice wide stereo “sweet spot” with a single source driver. 97+ corvettes also have a neat subwoofer module in the door which could be an interesting retrofit candidate depending on depth. As a side note, a speaker’s impedance doesn’t determine how loud it gets — that comes down to its sensitivity. One clean watt of power usually lands somewhere around 85–95 dB depending on the speaker. Doubling the wattage doesn’t double the volume, and even “1000 watts” is usually just a quick peak at a narrow frequency for a split second. It still won’t come close to doubling the SPL compared to a solid 200‑watt amp. A lot of manufacturer specs lean pretty hard on marketing, so the numbers can be misleading. Honestly, a good speaker with 5 clean watts behind it can sound surprisingly great.

Neat part! Now we just need a full length version

Interesting find. I didn’t know there were other oe applications that could work. I went with a borgeson shaft that has the collapsible portion

I’d suspect you may need a new synchro hub/sleeve and it may be wise to replace firs gear and reverse. There is also an updated 5th gear kit. You have the option to just buy a new or rebuilt ax15 which may be the easier bet. The ax15 is a fun but tedious rebuild process

I’d go LS. Modern and efficient. I’ve done many gen 1 and 2 GM engines too and like the platform. But I’m done with carburetors, distributors and any version of throttle body injection. Plus I do look at the resale value of what I build. 350 swaps tend to be bottom dollar in the world of v8 swaps. It’s nice to have a matching numbers engine for certain clean restos. But when you’re already engine swapping, go for the most well supported platform imo

I’ve been toying with the idea of more power Trying to decide between some nice heads/cam/tune package and keep it N/A or going with the Edelbrock C5 supercharger system. The existing heads and cam are good candidates for supercharging though I may upgrade the retainers to titanium for some weight savings. NA I should be able to get around 425-450 whp but supercharged opens up even greater gains. Kinda on the fence as I like the idea of a clean smooth stock idle I can get with a supercharger but then again, the bolt on simplicity of heads cam is also appealing. If I went heads cam I have a good combo in mind that would keep a fairly smooth idle and solid midrange torque gains. Transmission should be good for around 500lbft of torque but I’m sure something would be the fuse if I get serious traction

I’ll definitely echo the above regarding por15. Get it everywhere you can on the back side of joints. For the back window, that one can be a genuine pain. It could just be that you have some seal failures (it’s urethaned in place). But, the cab corner seams near the bottom corners of the window are also terrible leak spots. On my last MJ I had to cutout and repair the seam with new metal due to hidden rust. You may be able to get away with some por15 there as well. But the source tends to be the corners of the window frame in the cab. The factory seam sealer shrinks and leaves open gaps where water finds its way into those pinch seams. Pulling the rear window is a good idea. Personally, I’d have it professionally removed then replaced since the trim can be difficult to remove intact.