ghetdjc320

Good info! I used marine grease on all the bushings and mine are respectably fast as well

So does the XJ unit fit the same or what are the differences. Will need to replace my HO unit soon

I haven’t created a list yet but suppose I will start soon. I’m finishing up some switch bezels this week and the. Slammed at work for a month or two. After that I’m planning to focus on these projects. I have one non-ac panel like that one. I’m planning on having a core exchange. I’d pay for the old core that you can send me once you receive your new one. That we we don’t hold up shipping forever but I can keep rebuilding these.

well, I’ll start off by saying that I am pretty used to towing big loads. The springs are stock 4x4 springs. Trailer didn’t have brakes. For steering, right now I run ZJ linkage with a psc box and pump. No issues at all with steering or driveability other than needing to give myself lots of room to stop.

In regards to the brakes, you will need significantly more pressure to drive rear disks. Despite assumptions to the contrary, stock drums actually have more stopping power than stock disks. However, there are many other reasons to swap. Self adjusting, easier maintenance and better performance (cooling and self cleaning) are at the top of my list. Plus a parking brake that works in both directions. The load sensing valve may work in a pinch if you lengthen the rod to sit higher than normal when level. I deleted mine along with the distribution block a long time ago. Ran all new lines, rea

Just finished tcase install and all issues have been solved. While I had it out I blasted and degreased the tranny tunnel and gave it a nice coat of dominion sure seal liner. Took it for a test drive and it’s working great. No noise, no leaks and super smooth. On to the next project (rebuild ebrake assembly)

Just finished the tcase refurb. Lots of cleanup but I wanted everything clean under there. Going to let the sealant cure overnight then cleanup the tranny tunnel and crossmember before reinstalling everything. Took plenty of time to clean and inspect the entire case. To remove the problematic bearing, a strong precision screwdriver did the trick to start folding in one side. See pics for details:

Just grab one from rock auto

I am slightly tempted here. Would love to go manual at some point

Every project is a can of worms on a 30 year old truck but I’ve been taking my time and getting everything working as it should. Doing a rear disk swap and revamping all the rear brake lines, axle lines, vent etc. Had to remove the truss to get things down just right.

Would you happen to have the small screw hole covers for the a pillar and b pillar trim? Also looking for the trim piece that goes where the seat belt goes through the b pillar.

Just wanted to update this thread and post up some of the custom versions that have been completed so far. Lots of different versions requested and produced so far. All have the oem glow through and are multi-layered like the originals.

Let me know! I’d be happy to grab them

It’s best to keep the bolt in right side up so at the very least gravity keeps it from falling out. Make sure to use lock washers under the nylock nut also.

Wheel spacers are safer at this point than shaving that bolt. The misalignment spacers on the top of your knuckles under the heim could also be a bit shorter.