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ghetdjc320

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    Arkansas
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    Semper Paratus 🫡

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Obsessive Comanche Disorder

Obsessive Comanche Disorder (9/11)

  1. If It's the blank, those were normally just a thin plastic bezel that was attached to the larger gauge cluster bezel. You can also get 3d printed aftermarket ones that will just have a couple of carling style rocker switch holes. Or you can grab the switch holder from any 96- XJ or MJ that had the actual switch holder there. Somewhere, I have buckets of them lol.
  2. I’m thinking something like this could be made to work: https://vwispwest.com/retaining-clip-arm-rest-for-quarter-panel-311867289/
  3. Are you trying to get it back to stock or keep a 4” lift?
  4. I think we all know that there are only a handful of manufacturers and I’m not saying that a quality product cannot be had from China as we all know it can. However, back to the original question, any info on Axiom? @golddigger, any information or experience with them? As for timken or SKF, they still are oe design. The question is whether there is a truly superior engineered product available (which Axiom claims to be). Something that can stand up to heavier tires and less wheel offset which tends to kill oe style units. I’ve bought many a Timken bearing over the years but the last two sets I purchased did not last at all and started to become noisy within a few thousand miles. One on my MJ with 33’s and one set on my TJ with 30” tires. Keep in mind that I run the 99.5+ style unit bearings for the slightly different offset and longer lug studs. In the TJ world, these are the Timken units that seem to be having higher than anecdotal failure rates recently, and the timing is suspiciously close to when production moved. Of course, there also appear to be counterfeit Timkens floating around. I haven’t had any premature failures with SKF so far. But again, the question here is Axiom
  5. Anyone ever heard of this company? Supposedly upgraded internals but not very specific. Timken appears to be all outsourced now. SKF has been my go to but I’d be all for a truly upgraded unit if there is such a thing
  6. I think a lot of members don’t even realize the Epic section exists. DIY section suffers from a similar fate.
  7. You’re in Epic tech so it definitely qualifies . This section of the forum doesn’t get much traffic but it really does have some fantastic builds and info. It’s awesome that you have some really out of the box designs and fabrication that can be referenced in the years to come. Keep posting here, even if it doesn’t get many replies, it will have a good home
  8. What year are the new buckets from?
  9. I had them vector traced. Will try to dig up the file and post it
  10. That’s a clean looking bumper!
  11. I’m curious what issue you are currently experiencing? I run catch cans on high performance marine engines but that is simply because such engines have more blow by than most along with intercoolers that would loose efficiency if coated in oil. But in a 4.0, unless the vent system on you valve cover isn’t working properly (which is a serious possibility), I’ve almost never seen a single drop of oil in that tube. Kind of ironic too that we used to dip air filters in motor oil to improve the filtration of fine particles and prevent the top ends from rusting prematurely
  12. I see rock auto has an SKF rebuilt kit part number STCK231. May be a good setup
  13. I used the Novak kit a few years ago but it had several missing pieces and wasn’t really a quality kit (cheap seals and bearings). That may have changed recently. Normally I really like Novak products. On my last tcase rebuild, I went in rock auto and picked up every SKF bearing and seal I could find but that was for a 242
  14. The ideal ones are a pair of RHD 2001 explorer cables. Dorman still makes them. C660104 is the doorman part number. Grab 2 of them. Good for anything from stock height to 6” lift. They fit explorer disks along with KJ or ZJ disk swaps and the other end fits the Comanche equalizing block.
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