ghetdjc320

On my MJ I used dynaliner on the firewall since it has an adhesive backing. Dynapad is super nice stuff to work with though. It can be a tight fit near the center co sole to dash area but basically from rocker to rocker and back wall to lower firewall are prime spots for dynapad. Also worth adding some rtv or seam sealer around your floor plugs.

The light grey matches the seats a bit better but the dark gray or charcoal looks significantly better.

The block off plates are part of the gauges cluster bezel piece. If you want to install carling size switches, you need to get the actual mounting base that goes behind the dash. I have piles of them somewhere if I can dig them out.

Time for some updates. I knew I had a small leak on the drivers side but wasn’t sure where it was coming from (still investigating that). Also have a small air gap between the booster and the firewall letting in warm air from the engine bay while running. I also want to improve the audio in the can further and replace the cluster with the new custom Dakota digital system I had made. So out comes the interior. Found a decent amount of mildew under drivers side carpet as expected. Will also be swapping out the seatbelts for some corbeau 3 point harnesses. The Trailcat seats make it a bit difficult to grab the seat belts from the b pillars.

That is one clean floor! I’d check the seam sealer and identify any possible leaks. If it’s all good, do as recommended above. On my last build after I removed and re seam sealed the cab, I por 15d it then raptor lined it. It’s worked great so far. And I did end up using dynapad on the floor with excellent results. I just don’t recommend the mass backed carpet. For me, it started to crumble and our gas horribly after 3 months.

Out of curiosity, have you done cruisers tips? That’s typically the gold standard before firing the parts canon at seemingly mysterious renix issues

Steering play can come from the gearbox itself, the ball joints, the tie rod ends, the track bar, the control arms, the sway bar, the alignment etc. it’s really just a process of elimination. My current and last MJ had super tight steering with zero play. Not quite on par with electrically assisted rack and pinion but very good overall. But it took a lot of work to get it that way. The steering column on the manual does have an accessory position that you can access by pushing down on the key release button typically. At least that’s how my 90 and 91 were.

I’ve never seen one before, but if you still have the wiring harness for it, check and see if one side goes to ground. It’s likely just a simple normally closed or normally open pressure switch that you could harvest off of another vehicle. Does the engine try to stall without it?

What is the switch for? Does it turn on a light or operate another function?

I’d just use the Dorman if you can find the right size.

I saw this on Facebook not long ago. Glad it went otherwise a club member

Interesting, I’m only finding a balance pot on the RX-172 I’m working with. Since the diagram I have is from another member, I’ll leave it to his discretion to post. There are many aspects that are the same as the later models but many that aren’t. The manual I have is of an RX-170. I’ve been trying to dig up the manual for the later 172 or 173 but haven’t found any yet. If I am able to get one, I’ll post up whatever I can. If anyone else has one, please let me know. The signal traces from the AM/FM tuners to the PCB-VF are quite different on the 172/173 than on the 170.

As I’ve been compiling data and studying these radios in some detail, I need to jot down some of the info I’ve found so far. Some of this is my operating theory and I’ll update it with further confirmation. To preface, I have both an RX-172 and RX-173 in hand and a schematic from an earlier RX. Here are some of my findings: 1. TP pins such as TP371 and 471 are “test points”. There are many test points on the board, likely to validate the circuits upon or before assembly. 2. TP371 and 471 seem to just sit on the line level input to the tone controls (starting with treble). They are not specifically the tape or tuner signals but rather combined signal. 3. I do not see that there is necessarily any discreet “input selection” in these units. Currently, I’m thinking it is the presence of the tape that sends a “mute” signal to the radio. Some have reported long ago here in CC that removing the tape deck, inserting a blank tape or disabling the am radio will eliminate the audio bleed through issue. There seems to be some logic here but I’ll have to do some testing to confirm. 4. The preamp is labeled as PCB-VR on the drawings. It looks like there have been a few variations of this over the years but the final output to the amplifier portion of the board is the 3 pin connector with red white and black wires. On my RX-172 that is P304 on the pre-amp board (the one with the tone and volume controls). You should see a cable coming from there going to the main board input P304 near the amplification stage. NOTE: this is where one should be able to get line level aka RCA pre-out signals for an external amp. This is before any amplification takes place. The amplifier in these radios seems to just be a simple 2 channel design, which is further substantiated by the lack of a fader control (front and back biasing) and only a balance control (left and right biasing). 5. The AM tuner is the longer vertically mounted pcb that is against the left side of the radio viewed from the top. 6. the FM tuner is smaller but parallel to the AM tuner and also sits near the left side for eh radio as viewed from the top. 7. The amplifier itself sits on the main PCB board near the antenna input. It is not the vertical board mounted behind the main radio harness connector. 8. The AM/FM radio inputs appear to be coming from the 7 pin connector from the main board near the FM tuner to the pre-amp board. The tape input is separate and comes into the preamp board on a 3 pin ribbon wire. 9. There are adjustable potentiometers all over this board. I’ve heard the rumor about “lowering the AM radio volume” as a work around for the signal bleed through issue. I can see how that could be accomplished. I’ll have to determine which pot that is, but a simple adjustment with a small flat head screwdriver would take care of it. Edit: I think it’s pot 71. You can see it circled in the picture just below the volume and tone controls. Turning it counterclockwise should lower the output. More to come as I delve deeper into these head units.

Looks like excessive current draw.

These are standard GM bulkhead fuse blocks. Holes are a bit bigger and you can repin them as you like with the proper tools. I’ve been running my painless 24circuit universal in my MJ for some time now. Most of the circuits are fairly standard on the MJ column since they are GM with the exception of the wipers and hvac controls.