hgeranium

Any pics of it? I’ve never personally messed with it so I’m not even sure where it is. Is it that canister below the coolant bottle next to the oil filter? There are 2 very rotted hoses going somewhere but Lord knows what it looks like out of sight.

This has been going on a few months now, before then I’ve never had an issue with this. Whenever I stop for gas, especially after driving for a while, there is a ton of pressure hissing out from behind the fuel cap. I know a little bit is normal but it’s much louder and more powerful than I’m used to. You can hear it before you even take off the cap and sometimes it’s so strong that if I’m not careful the force will blow the cap away once it’s unscrewed. Pretty new fuel pump/strainer and fuel filter. Could the vents be clogged allowing for excess pressure to build in the tank? I can get a video of it tomorrow after work

I can’t live with this on my chest. I have to admit it. Until you said this, I thought the passenger and driver side crank were two different parts.. It just never crossed my peanut sized mind that I can just flip the thing over and it would go on just the same.

My driver side crank has rolled it’s last window. At least it died doing what it loved. He was only 38 years old. Driver side crank has left behind his brother: Passenger side Crank, and adopted son: vise grips.

I do have a short bed. I guess my mileage per tank is worse than I thought, because I calculated 10 miles a gallon on average in the city and the light would come on a little before 160 miles (16 gallons x 10mpg).

Assuming the 23gal upgrade is for long bed manches only, correct? I would love to get such a big volume upgrade but there doesn't seem to be quite a lot of extra room for an upgraded tank over the 16

Thanks! So from factory it's just held on by adhesive? I'm glad whichever PO it was ended up keeping the latch.

Could somebody post a picture of what the latch actually looks like on their window? I have what I believe to be the latch (came in the glovebox when I bought the truck) but I want to make sure it’s just that singular latch glued on to the window and there’s not a piece broken or missing.

Glad to hear. I already have a remflex ready and waiting in my parts box

Title says it all. In the near future I will be replacing the head with a fresh one. With the head (and all the necessary parts to do so) removed, what other things would be worth changing while I have the space? If I’m doing all that effort I’m for sure thinking about changing out my old rusty exhaust manifold and downpipe. Head gasket of course lol.

Lol I’ve been a silent observer of that thread all the way through

I tightened the bolts a few months ago but I suppose it’s possible that they loosened up again. This started out of nowhere. My IACV has been working great for months. It’s also possible that it crapped out on me as it’s definitely done that in the past. what do you mean by schooling the ECU?

I just started a new job with crazy hours, so I haven’t been able to go out and tinker on it. I thought I would ask you guys so I have a starting point when I do have the time this weekend. When the truck isn’t warmed up, and I am stopped, when I try to accelerate it will initially stumble. It seems like the power cuts out completely for a second, and then comes back. A lot of times the truck ends up dying but it always turns back on with no issues. Once it warms up the problem completely disappears. My initial thought was a vacuum leak but it seems unlikely with how simplified my system is, plus I looked over it and it’s fine. Also seems unlikely considering it idles perfectly, it only stumbles upon initial acceleration from a stop. I have a pretty new idle air control valve but I suppose with the quality of parts these days anything is possible. I’ll pull it off right now and check it out. if it were a fuel issue, I would expect it to be more prevalent and not go away when it warms up, plus I have a brand new fuel pump and filter. I can check my fuel pressure this weekend just to be sure. In my mind it has to be some sort of sensor, but I’m not sure. Has anyone experienced something similar?

Quick update. Overheated at about 5pm last evening and I didn’t get home till 2:30. Heater control valve and heater hoses installed without a problem. When trying to reinstall the thermostat housing, I realized that what seemed like a guide pin was actually the top bolt that snapped in half! In the field without heat, I wasn’t able to get the bolt to the engine to budge let alone get the other half of the bolt out of the housing. I ended up just having to absolutely lather the thing with RTV to seal the top half. After adding water directly through the thermostat, I was able to get it about 30 minutes down the road before I had to add more water. At that point it got easier as I just had to pull over every 30min to refill until I made it home. To anyone having issues with having to limp their 4.0 home because of a coolant leak and you still have the closed system, it was pretty effective to install the tstat housing without the tstat and fill it all the way up with water through the large port with the hose off. No need to burp it and you can still add it when it’s hot and under pressure later down the road without having to worry about the bottle blowing up water on you when taking the cap off.

I’m waiting on parts anyway. Plus I would’ve needed a new housing gasket. My friend is bringing the HCV, two heater hoses, thermostat and housing gasket. I’m assuming it’s gonna try to overheat again because I’ll have to burp it. Maybe I can pour a bunch of water directly into the engine from the thermostat housing to mitigate it. I just don’t wanna wait for the truck to cool again if I need to burp it lol. I’m already going to be home way after dark so I’m trying to think ahead