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Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. And don’t discount regearing your existing axle. The Ford 8.8 is a boat anchor for 33’s. The 8.25 liberty is a very nice choice. However, since you have to reheat your front axle to match, you can often get a decent deal to do both at the same time. What engine and transmission do you have? That will make a big difference as to what gears to go with. I have a built 4.0 with the auto tranny and run 4.56 gears. I could have easily gone with 4.88 gears also and been fine. The point is, you won’t find many stock axles in those ratios so a regear may be in order for whatever you decide to get. If m
  2. The gauge provision on the back of the head should be 1/8npt as is the oil pressure sender. The ecu doesn’t need either of those signals. You can go with a large variety of units. If you want to go with a stock setup then go with @jdog’s suggestion. For aftermarket, you can grab an a pillar 1 or 2 gauge pod for an XJ from autometer and install 2 1/16 autometer gauges with senders. I do find the autometer route far more accurate than a factory gauge but that’s just my $.02
  3. Regarding brakes, the dual diaphragm swap is a good one as Pete mentioned. If your interested, there is a thread in this section regarding where to start first with the brakes that may be helpful to you. Although most will say to waste no money on the Dana 35 rear axle that is likely in your Jeep, I have been running one for several years now with 4.56 gears, upgraded axle shafts, a small truss (to stiffen the axle housing and tubes) on 33’s. Works very well for me and I have a lot more clearance under the axle than any other rig on 33’s. I wouldn’t recommend going any bigger though. Tire wid
  4. In my opinion (pulled and installed about 6 of these setups), I prefer installing the engine and tranny together. That way you can ensure simple things like your cps and bellhousing alignment are spot on before installing. I always put the tcase on separately since they are really easy to install under the truck. Just get a ratcheting box wrench with a swivel for the tcase to tranny nuts. I’d pull the tcase for removal as well. With the radiator crossmember pulled it’s a fairly straight shot and I’ve never needed to jack up the front. Just my $.02
  5. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371 This would probably work just fine. There are many other options but I’m partial to Wilwood. Lokar makes a great set also that has more adapters in the kit also. Both of those kits are cut to length.
  6. Stock MJ e brake cables can be made to work with that setup (slight modification required) or you can run TJ cables as I believe that is the setup for them. Personally I’d just grab a set of universal cables in the correct length. It will come with various ends so you can get exactly what you need. I believe the TJ cables are a bit short if you have a long bed.
  7. I’ve been running 95% water along with water wetter for corrosion inhibition. Essentially it’s a racing coolant setup. No worries about freezing here ever . Works well but still gets too hot. The new injectors and timing advance should straighten that out.
  8. Can you send a picture of the back side of the brake backing plate? That we we can know what the connection should look like
  9. It is my belief that the largest core currently available is the Novak radiator. It is 3” thick (dual 1.5” cores) and has no tranny cooler provision. I really like this radiator but can’t seem to get Novak to answer my emails (hard for me to call them during their business hours form here). The old style Griffin radiator seems to be great but isn’t available anymore. Their new one is just a 1.5” core. My current core is 1.5” although the end ranks are a full 2”. Once I get this fueling issue straightened out I will move on to the radiator if needed. Planning on advancing my timing a few degree
  10. You got it. Send me a PM. My new injectors should be installed by Monday/Tuesday
  11. Found the issue for the lean running. I have 19lb injectors not 24. Finally dig up the receipt and these are upgraded stock injectors only. Just ordered up some Ford Motorsports purple injectors which are a 6 hole true 24lb @ 39psi.
  12. Thanks but if you read the other posts you’ll see this engine has no rust internally (it’s been checked, flushed, checked, flushed x10). It’s not the original engine. 96 block, Bored, camed, aluminum head, roller rockers, hylift Johnson lifters, hypereutectic pistons, cometic head gasket, .038 quench, shaved block, flowkooler water pump, new crank, king main and rod bearings, arp main, rod and head bolts etc etc. My main question is regarding the pic of the plugs above now to know if it looks lean (it does to me but would like some more feedback). I think I’ll have to post the plugs in a separ
  13. I have one from my 91. The pump leaks but the bottle is good.
  14. Let me get your feedback on these plugs I just pulled. Cylinders are laid out 1-6 left to right. I feel a May be running a bit on the lean side. I do know my fuel economy is quite good. Uploaded in full resolution so you can zoom in
  15. Have a nos set of front mud flaps with hardware all factory sealed. Also have a set of rear MJ mudlap brackets never used. The brackets are repops from this site that used to be available. Was planning on modifying this set of fronts to be identical to oem rears but have other projects that popped up. brackets $50/pr mudlfaps $125/pr
  16. I just installed some of these and theyre a nice little upgrade over stock
  17. So, to get get back on topic. What’s the best radiator/fan setup made for XJ/MJs
  18. Yeah, the problem is limited availability and shipping due to where I live. I would like to give it a try though. Have you tried it?
  19. No I don’t. Not a bad idea but would be a supplement once I get the coolant temps down.
  20. I believe he’s referring to racing type coolant which is pure glycol. It’s supposed to be some really good stuff. I’ll see if our one racing outfitter has any otherwise I may be able to order some and send via ocean freight
  21. No, but we don’t have access to any here anyways. The radiator/fan combo simply can’t keep up with the engine when under load
  22. I’m guessing most of you haven’t seen my build thread. Suffice it to say, no expense was spared on the engine build. Its got about 15k on the clock since the build. I’ll set my temp sensors on the radiator inlet and outlet and see exactly how it’s working. It for sure the radiator though. I’ve had oem, csf and now am running a 2 row all aluminum unit. Flowkooler water pump, genuine Mopar thermostat, Edelbrock head which does heat up the coolant a bit more. The engine is bored, high compression, camed ect. 24lb injectors and fuel pressure is spot on. Air temp sensor relocated to air box to rich
  23. I don’t there there is any cooling configuration, system or trick I haven’t tried up till now. It’s pretty clear currently that the radiator/fan setup just can’t keep up. Never had much issue with the heat at all in Texas but this tropical heat here is really hard to work with. It’s like the whole Jeep just heat soaks even when it’s parked
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