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Took the MJ in to a local shop the other day to have them fix the buggerred drivers side down pipe the local butcher/muffler shop installed. Had a piece of mig wire 6” long sticking out of the side of the pipe near the flange. What a joke. Horrible routing and I hadn’t even noticed they had reduced down to 1.75” tubing. So I picked up a pipe of 16awg 304 stainless pie cuts along with some mandrel bends and v bands. On another note, I was experiencing some death wobble whenever I hit a bump while going 35+ mph. Fairly violent as well. I inspected all the steering and suspension components and didn’t find any issues so I dropped it off for a good alignment. They fixed the toe and it seems to have resolved the issue. I’d still like to swap in an iron man fab track bar system for the double sheer bracket and the cross brace. That and maybe the Curie Curectlync and some of those new metal cloak ball joints

The factory tended to seam seal the back side of joints (the non exposed side). I really have mixed feelings about that. You can’t leave places for moisture to accumulate without proper drainage. At times, seam sealer can actually trap moisture or prevent drainage. That’s why I like POR15 inside metal seams such as pinch welds followed by seam sealing the back side. The por15 loves to seal up cracks and crevices in metal. The process I used was to mask off the back side of a seam then allow some POR15 to wick its way down int the joint. I’d the seam sealer the back side of the joint then hit both side with raptor liner. Did most of my truck that way. Strategically adding drain holes in certain areas before this process helped a lot as well. And one quick tech tip for removing old seam sealer, use an oscilating tool with a caulk cutting blade. They work very well at getting the old single stage seam sealer off. The factory application was horrendous on my 90’.

I found the issue actually some time back. There was a single connector under the hood that was full of water and had completely corroded the pins. Caused a short between 5v and sensor ground. Cleaned it up and zero issues.

Swapping in the later model “plate and fin” evaporator and condenser is a good start. Takes some fitting work but is a much more efficient design than the old tube and fine designs. The compressor volume to evaporator size ratio is key for making a good AC system. What engine are you running? I’d try to keep the compressor under the hood if possible as the power draw for an electric compressor will be substantial. Custom hoses/lines is the easier part.

Moog control arms were a direct swap for my when I got a set in 2023.

Sending unit o ring not properly seated is prime suspect and has happened to me multiple times. Occasionally, the hold down tabs that keep the pressure on the seal can be the culprit. Did you also replace the vent valves and/or gaskets?

Lots of great builds in here. My top 4 for a good read are: For kicks, lookup a thread called something like: “how to get this screw out” or something or that effect from Jesse J. The premise was, how can I remove that little screw on the a pillar trim near the dash. That’s the first time I’d seen a thread have the “hot topic” tag . Wonder if anyone has the link

Any open cell foam will help with noise but noise isn’t much of a problem inside the box itself. When I rebuilt mine, I sealed all the junctions with permatex black and added 1/8 minicell foam for insulation only. In retrospect, a good option would have also been dynaliner in 1/8. You can add some open cell near th vents and duct exits to act as a baffle. But I find that stopping escaping air around the seams made the biggest difference in airflow and sound

I had the 120mph police speedo in my last MJ and have the 120 UK spec one now. Neither of them looked like this one. The XJ police speedo I had said “certified calibration” on the face of it.

Does it stall when coming to a stop? Not sure if the Renix used the VSS for the eco or not but that’s what would cause stalling on my HO MJ

Had to make a few adjustments to the gauge layouts. I wasn’t super keen on losing the indicator lights on the left side of the dash so we reworked the layout somewhat and this is the new final. Still holding true to the original but with all the modern functionality. Those small oled screen in the gauge faces will be the aux readouts with multiple data streams they can display while still keeping the nice symmetrical analog gauges. We’re also going to keep the oe locations for the turn signal and high beam indicators albeit with custom led housings to make it look original (ultimately this is a simple felt gutted cluster).

How may counterweights on the crank? I’m assuming you’re positive this is an engine vibe and not a tranny, flywheel or drivetrain vibe?

Not that I’ve ever seen. They were actually stock in the TJ Rubicon and some OE ford applications

You can just run a thick cut gearset for the 44 so you don’t have to swap the carrier

I think I still have old stock of those switch covers in a box somewhere. I must have made 20 different layout varieties. The actual "fog" lights switch went on the left of the column and would have been next to the factory cargo light switch if that was installed on the truck. The roll bar light switch went to the right of the column as noted in the other post and would have been next to the "power/comfort" switch if so optioned. Although I never saw this in any original MJ, I suppose the highest possible option combo would have been factory fogs, cargo lamp, sports bar light and power/comfort for dash switches. Then again, I've never seen factory electric windows or locks in an MJ either.

Its indefinite for now. Have a little one on the way so we transferred stateside

Unexpected but not unwelcome Also been working with Dakota a digital to design a set of custom HDX gauges for the truck. Trying to keep the factory layout and design in tact vs all those “digital dashes” I keep seeing swapped in. I had all gauges except for the fuel and speedometer match the factory C5 corvette scaling so the engine readings will match. I’ll be pulling all the data from the ecu via the OE ls sensors for accuracy. The HDX gauges come with some little oled displays in the fae of the RPM and Speedo but we’re removing those fo a clean gauge face and sticking those two screens in the warning light section of the dash. There I can see tpms, fuel pressure, and a great deal of aux data as needed. That lets me keep the 270* gauge sweeps for the speedo and rpm. I also went 180* sweeps for the other gauges to match the C5 and add some more gauge resolution. Still need to finish the gauge faes and remove the redundant turn signals in them but really liking this layout design. The cluster build should be done this next month

The Tomahawk is headed back stateside (with us)

That’s awesome news! Wonder how many kits they are making this round. I think I’ll pick one up just to have available for next time.

I’d assume that the flow restriction on the return line would help slow down the coolant to heat soak the core better . It will probably work fine either way as we have an XJ heater core in the tiny cab of our MJs. The other thought would be trapped air but you can easily eliminate that by vacuum filling the coolant. It’s by far the easiest and best method I’ve ever come across to make sure all the air is gone in pretty much any cooling system. I would delete the bypass valve though in the heater core.

Looks like someone door swapped it. Black door panels and limited XJ seats. Also has the actual vented windows that wouldn’t have been on a 92.

SKP I’ve always had consistent results with. Moog, has had a lot of variables. AC delco, it really depends on what level of AC delco. Haven’t had any issues with their gold tier products. Delphi is OE for some vehicle components. I suspect though, that there are quality tiers within each of these brands. So it may come down more to the specific part and quality tiers than just the overall brand.

Grab the Hayden HD clutch from Napa. Works great with a good 7 blade mech fan

On my last MJ, I used sylvania 1157 led bulbs from oreilly’s in the stock housings. They were drop in replacements. As long as you have some incandescent bulbs in the turn signal circuit, it’s normally enough for the flasher to operate. Otherwise you may need to switch to an LED flasher if you experience rapid or no flash.