ghetdjc320

I think mine was around 1500 or 2k.

The Crutchfield kit is the better priced option

Boxy makes rear speaker brackets. It’s a good product but won’t really help your situation. You can run a stock size 5.25 door speaker or you can run a 6.5 if your open to some slight trimming.some sound deadening in your doors will do wonders for any speaker you choose. Without going into extra details as to why, here is what I’d suggest: This amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CX36T/Kicker-46CXA360-4T.html?tp=35782 These speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651KSS50/Kicker-KSS50.html This sound deadening kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_239SSKSEK/Soundskins-SSK-SEK-Speaker-Enhancement-Kit.html This amp kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK8/Crutchfield-CK8-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html Two of these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CMER206/Crutchfield-Reference-2-Channel-RCA-Patch-Cables-6-foot.html If you want to run a sub down the road then grab a 4awg install kit with a small splitter you can mount in the cab to adapt (2) 8awg cables, one for amp and one for compact sub. Feel free to choose other speakers but this setup is a fantastic sound quality, quantity and bang for buck combo. You can run the tweeter in the woofer as a coaxial type speaker or split them and run the tweeter in the door or dash knee panel. You could definitely run the 6.5 version of this kit if you’re ok with some light trimming. I’d recommend going 6.5 if you’re skipping a sub for now. If you want better quality sound, grab some dynamite extreme and line the doors thoroughly. If you want to take things further from there, add the rear speakers since you’ll have the amp outputs already. But a 2.1 system with front components speakers and a single sub is really clean. You can run a simple powered sub. Kicker hideaway if you want something basic. JL Microsub+ 8” if you want more.

Why not use an alarm tilt sensor? Very simple normally open contact that closes when tilted past a preset point. They are used in car alarms to deter theft by tow truck

Truck covers USA. They have built a couple of Comanche covers and are the best in the biz. They offer Yakima tracks you can mount your camping gear and tent to. If you go that route @Limeyjeeper has the spec sheet for them to build the MJ cover. I'm running one as well. It is an exceptional cover with stellar after sales support.

If there is a need for kit testers, let me know

I was thinking the same thing. Remarkable that you can get body panels and tail lights galore now. As for HO sensors, the mopar ones are definitely low stock but I’ve found some of the aftermarket has produced some decent sensors and parts to keep things running

A good solvent based ceramic coating is excellent for plastics, glass and paint . I get about a year out of it here on our extremely harsh conditions. I use Migliore but there are other great options.

Certain years f150 and explorers share leaf spring lengths and are very close to the same offset as Comanche’s. They don’t have much arch in their factory forms but can make decent SOA springs from the ones I’ve seen. Load capacities also vary.

That makes sense. I hadn’t considered how PWM was used to control led brightness. Somehow, I feel there may be some lasting effects on our vision with the proliferation of LED tech everywhere, but especially the lower quality stuff like you mentioned.

They are everywhere now it seems. But I’m starting to notice the intense pulse or strobing effect they all have. Seems like the cheaper ones are even worse. I most all led lights strobe at very high frequencies. Anyone else noticing the effect? Feels like it’s causing eye strain. Noticing a lot of aftermarket auto lighting seems to be making it worse unless it’s higher quality

Keep in mind also that the pads you select will play a big roll in braking. Centric posi-quiet is a good setup as they are softer and grab better than most. And make sure to follow break in procedures with new pads and rotors. The braking difference is substantial. Good break pads will create a bit of break dust but that what you want with an otherwise stock braking system.

Thats the all around best combo. Used it for many years with 33’s with no issues and heavy wheeling.

When I swapped in electric windows, I powered them with an 18v drill battery to test them and the speed was awesome. At 12v it was functional but much slower. I ended up programming the alternator voltage control up to 14v and all of the accessories now run very well. But I’m still curious how a 19v would do.

What voltage are you stepping up to?

That’s correct. All the oe sport bars essentially connected down through to the frame of the MJ via the brackets at the front. The style bar you have is likely a universal aftermarket setup. They are quite easy to find so you may be able to find some universal brackets that are made for that bar.

Ultimately, you need to get 12v+ to the compressor and power to the blower motor and you’ll have AC. You’ll also need an AC pressure switch which can cycle the compressor on and off as needed. Those are the bare minimums assuming you have your refrigerant lines plumbed already. If I were adding AC to an MJ, I’d use the factory under dash ac harness. It is a fairly stand-alone harness. It will provide you with variable fan speed via the resistor, integrate the evaporator freeze sensor (not a must have but nice to have) and have all the necessary connections for the hvac deck.

Following up to see if @USN_JeepMJ is still around or if there have been any updates. I know he had his MJ for sale a few months back and just wondering what became of it.

Let me see if I can dig up some pictures of my install. It’s noteworthy though that the later model bosch turbine pump kit has been popping up a lot for sale recently. That’s a drop in replacement style turbine pump that doesn’t require mods. found it: post 15 and 17 of this page:

Very interesting steering design. Is there a reason you didn’t go with the regular ttb y link setup? I’m guessing the angles would have been too severe??

I believe that YJ axles have the same perch placement and distance as the MJ. I’d double check, but could be an option if you find an axle with the ratio you need. If you do swap gears into your axle, get them setup properly. Dana 35 axles need some preload and more often than not I see them set far too loose which causes catastrophic failure. Keep in mind that a Dana 35 on 31’s can be great for under axle clearances. I ran metric 33’s on mine for many years with 4.56 gears.

The changeover to c clips happened in 1990. 1989 and earlier were non c clip. A Dana 35 can be a great axle if you understand its weaknesses and address them. Tire size is a big factor here. What size do you plan on running?

I agree. Of course, we haven’t seen all the pics yet but so far I’m just seeing a decent bit of surface rust. I’ve worked on similar before. I’d suggest a good undercarriage cleaning first. Get under there with a pressure washer with a good blast nozzle and spend some time cleaning it all. You may find clean metal in some areas underneath caked on mud and scale. Once it’s cleaned up though, take a bunch of pictures of what the underneath looks like

There is a time/cost calculation to consider here. A new set of springs from rock auto (need to be replaced in pairs) will cost about $350ish. You can try to find a used pack but they are hard to find in good shape. Repairing the pack can be difficult as they tend to be seized and rusted together.