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I had them vector traced. Will try to dig up the file and post it

That’s a clean looking bumper!

I’m curious what issue you are currently experiencing? I run catch cans on high performance marine engines but that is simply because such engines have more blow by than most along with intercoolers that would loose efficiency if coated in oil. But in a 4.0, unless the vent system on you valve cover isn’t working properly (which is a serious possibility), I’ve almost never seen a single drop of oil in that tube. Kind of ironic too that we used to dip air filters in motor oil to improve the filtration of fine particles and prevent the top ends from rusting prematurely

I see rock auto has an SKF rebuilt kit part number STCK231. May be a good setup

I used the Novak kit a few years ago but it had several missing pieces and wasn’t really a quality kit (cheap seals and bearings). That may have changed recently. Normally I really like Novak products. On my last tcase rebuild, I went in rock auto and picked up every SKF bearing and seal I could find but that was for a 242

The ideal ones are a pair of RHD 2001 explorer cables. Dorman still makes them. C660104 is the doorman part number. Grab 2 of them. Good for anything from stock height to 6” lift. They fit explorer disks along with KJ or ZJ disk swaps and the other end fits the Comanche equalizing block.

here’s your 3.08 gears. Same price as any other. Just far less popular a ratio to swap https://revolutiongear.com/revolution-gear-ring-pinion-for-dana-35-3-08-5-13-ratio/

It has arrived. Wow, thoroughly impressed. Full Dakota digital custom HDX gauge set. The work was top notch.

The jeepcables kit is a good thing to do “while you’re in there”. I’ve ran optima yellow tops for many years now with no issues. I do suspect there was a bad batch after switching production companies. But my current battery is from 2024 with zero issues. Odyssey is who I run for marine applications and would definitely use them in automotive as well.

Thanks! So many small touches to get it to look this way but the workmanship seems really good. Looking forward to getting hands on and getting it installed

Just got the final product pic from the builder. Looking forward to seeing how they built this. It’s super clean imo. All gauge sweeps match the c5 corvette. The two displays can display any sensor input that you want. I’m thinking fuel pressure would be good and maybe run their tpms as well

If you pull the brake light fuse, do the blinkers work?

If you try the hazard lights, do they flash?

The fuse block only provides power and contains the flashers. The turn signal switch itself may be the issue.

Not identical but I have these: https://www.azzysdesignworks.com/shop/p/keychain-comanche-mj-mopar?srsltid=AfmBOorgL1Umi-NclBnBGtesVpz5fDhgEx9k1pU9WIfJsejyzHbFpdOT

Also, price and location please

This tidbit is important. The most likely cause is a bad bulb or socket. You’ve got a short in the system. Look for a bad filament in the bulb or socket issue. Even though you swapped the front clip it’s still very common.

I tried them as well, exact same fender. Just go with whatever is cheapest

I’m running aftermarket fenders but they required a lot of trimming and adjustment to fit. They never quite fit fervently but if you spend enough time, they fit decently

I ran the truettrac 3.73 and down with thick cut wire 4.56 revolution gears

Mudflaps would be awesome!

Glad you got it! So what ended up working for you?

I’d completely ignore any old settings. Yukon presents its own machining variables anyways. From the looks of your pattern, you’re missing backlash

I’m a little confused here. The 8.25 doesn’t use any shims. It has side adjusters and a crush sleeve.

They are a common GM switch connector. Many manufacturers make them but i bet Schardein has a solid, well vetted option.