ghetdjc320

I had the 120mph police speedo in my last MJ and have the 120 UK spec one now. Neither of them looked like this one. The XJ police speedo I had said “certified calibration” on the face of it.

Does it stall when coming to a stop? Not sure if the Renix used the VSS for the eco or not but that’s what would cause stalling on my HO MJ

Had to make a few adjustments to the gauge layouts. I wasn’t super keen on losing the indicator lights on the left side of the dash so we reworked the layout somewhat and this is the new final. Still holding true to the original but with all the modern functionality. Those small oled screen in the gauge faces will be the aux readouts with multiple data streams they can display while still keeping the nice symmetrical analog gauges. We’re also going to keep the oe locations for the turn signal and high beam indicators albeit with custom led housings to make it look original (ultimately this is a simple felt gutted cluster).

How may counterweights on the crank? I’m assuming you’re positive this is an engine vibe and not a tranny, flywheel or drivetrain vibe?

Not that I’ve ever seen. They were actually stock in the TJ Rubicon and some OE ford applications

You can just run a thick cut gearset for the 44 so you don’t have to swap the carrier

I think I still have old stock of those switch covers in a box somewhere. I must have made 20 different layout varieties. The actual "fog" lights switch went on the left of the column and would have been next to the factory cargo light switch if that was installed on the truck. The roll bar light switch went to the right of the column as noted in the other post and would have been next to the "power/comfort" switch if so optioned. Although I never saw this in any original MJ, I suppose the highest possible option combo would have been factory fogs, cargo lamp, sports bar light and power/comfort for dash switches. Then again, I've never seen factory electric windows or locks in an MJ either.

Its indefinite for now. Have a little one on the way so we transferred stateside

Unexpected but not unwelcome Also been working with Dakota a digital to design a set of custom HDX gauges for the truck. Trying to keep the factory layout and design in tact vs all those “digital dashes” I keep seeing swapped in. I had all gauges except for the fuel and speedometer match the factory C5 corvette scaling so the engine readings will match. I’ll be pulling all the data from the ecu via the OE ls sensors for accuracy. The HDX gauges come with some little oled displays in the fae of the RPM and Speedo but we’re removing those fo a clean gauge face and sticking those two screens in the warning light section of the dash. There I can see tpms, fuel pressure, and a great deal of aux data as needed. That lets me keep the 270* gauge sweeps for the speedo and rpm. I also went 180* sweeps for the other gauges to match the C5 and add some more gauge resolution. Still need to finish the gauge faes and remove the redundant turn signals in them but really liking this layout design. The cluster build should be done this next month

The Tomahawk is headed back stateside (with us)

That’s awesome news! Wonder how many kits they are making this round. I think I’ll pick one up just to have available for next time.

I’d assume that the flow restriction on the return line would help slow down the coolant to heat soak the core better . It will probably work fine either way as we have an XJ heater core in the tiny cab of our MJs. The other thought would be trapped air but you can easily eliminate that by vacuum filling the coolant. It’s by far the easiest and best method I’ve ever come across to make sure all the air is gone in pretty much any cooling system. I would delete the bypass valve though in the heater core.

Looks like someone door swapped it. Black door panels and limited XJ seats. Also has the actual vented windows that wouldn’t have been on a 92.

SKP I’ve always had consistent results with. Moog, has had a lot of variables. AC delco, it really depends on what level of AC delco. Haven’t had any issues with their gold tier products. Delphi is OE for some vehicle components. I suspect though, that there are quality tiers within each of these brands. So it may come down more to the specific part and quality tiers than just the overall brand.

Grab the Hayden HD clutch from Napa. Works great with a good 7 blade mech fan

On my last MJ, I used sylvania 1157 led bulbs from oreilly’s in the stock housings. They were drop in replacements. As long as you have some incandescent bulbs in the turn signal circuit, it’s normally enough for the flasher to operate. Otherwise you may need to switch to an LED flasher if you experience rapid or no flash.

Glad you finally got the hood! Seems like OG just got so stressed out running a business many customers dropped out. Hoping things work out though as it looks like a good product!

Alcan, Rusty’s

It already sold for 50k recently and that was well deserved. I could see it going for more. This truck is in the upper echelons of most Comanche builds. If you wanted to buy something like a new Raptor but wanted to stand out from the crowd, this would be a good direction. Different market than most MJ’s see.

I think we’re being a bit harsh here. That was probably one of the best builds we’ve had the pleasure of watching take shape. We rarely get to see such rigs for sale. Market determined it was worth 50k when it sold recently. If it goes even higher than that, I think that’s just a testament to the level of craftsmanship that went into it. Only unfortunate thing is someone else profiting off of another persons hard work. But it still goes to show the level of build that was done here. This isn’t your typical modded MJ. Nor is it about the money spent overall as much as it about the quality of the build and the effort put into designing such a rig. To me, this stands as a solid example of how a well thought out and well executed build can really stand out from the crowd.

That was @USN_JeepMJ’s project. It’s in epic tech. Looks like someone finished up a few odds and ends. Here’s the link:

Personally, I go with revolution gears and koyo install kits. The price is excellent and they have given me zero issues despite some pretty heavy use over the years.

If slab thickness/integrity isn’t sufficient, a good four post lift may be an option. Marketplace tends to have all sorts of lift from shops that are closing up or upgrading. Bendpak would be the go to here. Lifts really aren’t super complicated but I’d be weary or two post knock off lifts and any type of scissor lift. I have heard good things about champion lifts as well.

To shed some light on a couple of issues here: 1. The TJ rubicon rear locker is a torsion style limited slip (like a truetrac) when not locked. It’s a fairly low pressure air locker. But if the seals are good and the oil has been kept clean, they are some really nice units. 2. The TJR uses thick cut gearsets meaning they are using a 3.73 and numerically lower carrier for those 4.10 gears. Thick cut gears for the D44 are a nice options especially why you already have a carrier/locker you like. As for setting up used gears, it really depends on how much wear the gears have seen. The more wear there is, the more you need to try to exactly match the old pattern. But some extra time with shims may pay out in the long run. If those gears and locker are in truly great shape, they may be worthwhile. Those rear lockers were definitely unique and quite a clever design.

Actually wanted to fit a factor 55 Seth there but just haven’t gotten around to it. The winch line is actually behind the bumper fairlead for now to keep it out of the elements. I didn’t want the hook sitting there rattling. I have the d rings as well but needed to get the bushing kit to keep them from rattling also.