ghetdjc320

Awesome, thanks. So center pin is always gauge it sounds like

Just like the title says, I need the fuel sender connector pinout. It's just 3 wires, power, ground, and level sender resistance. I can reference the sender or body side of the connector. Either an HO or Renix point would be fine.

Yes it does. That one ground wire is the reference ground for both.

I misspoke, test between the sending unit ground pin and the fuel level sensor wire. That should give you the correct ohm reading.

Can you check the resistance from the sending unit to chasis ground at the fuel tank connector?

There are also some alternatives such as wilwood’s electric parking brake calipers or a transfer case parking brake if all else fails. That being said, I’m sure the rotors you have will work fine.

If you have all electric fans, check your voltage with the engine running.

Any one happen to know the different sun visor compatibility year? Are all the 86-92 MJ visors the same length? I know that my 90 and 91 visors were plastic and not fiber board but other than that, trying to determine which visors would be a direct fit (perhaps from other XJ years). Need to source some new ones

What fan setup did you install?

I must say, that rear Gladiator bumper looks great .

Just for pure kicks and giggles, checkout an Isuzu rodeo/Honda passport rear rotor from 95 up to 2003. 95-96 will be one style, 97 will be another and 98-03 will be yet another. All had a 6x5.5 patter and internal parking drum brake. Who knows if it’s anything that may fit but worth a shot

The inner circle should be the explorer 5x4.5 circle.

We need another thread on “how to remove this screw” . That one was even labeled a “hot topic” a few times

I’m pretty sure that’s some kind of record on CC for the single longest post .

But… they can’t drill a 6 lug and 5 lug pattern without interference if the diameter is close enough. Proper conversion rotors would be best and should only have the pattern you need. But these rotor will work in a pinch

It’s scheduled to arrive June 9th.

The 6.7 joying is a drop in replacement in stock location but I can’t seem to find any more of them available. I also installed a double din Sony unit on my last MJ as it only uses a shallow single din chasis. It does require airbox mods though.

Very cool to spot a fellow club members’ MJ here on island today @Yellowoctupus Next year in May there is an island wide car show at Andersen Air Force Base. I say we arrange an MJ takeover for anyone willing and able

Out of curiosity, what rear axle do you have in that 86? For some reason, it’s looking a little narrower in the rear than I’m used to seeing but maybe it’s just the picture angle.

Maybe make a few bucks off of this one and find something with a better fit? Some fiberglass work could also be done to make it look custom but I’m guessing that would cost more than the value of the end result.

Yeah, I’m not buying that. I absolutely love MJ’s but you have to call it what it is, they were built like a disposable truck. The spot weld placements, the seam sealer, the thickness of materials, treatment of the metal used, the lack of adequate drainage, seals, quality of the interior plastics, wiring, the list can go on and on.

This is a question of ergonomics. It’s not even based on your height but more your proportions. If you’re taller from the hips up you may not like them. If you like more thigh and knee support due to longer legs, you may like them. I’m cracking up just writing this . it is funny though, you’ll see some posts about x seat or x seat bracket is all wrong and is too high or too low. If you have two people both 6’ tall, they will likely have different proportions and will likely give different feedback on fit and/or comfort. Bottom line, they may work fine for you and that’s all that mattes, but you’ll have to try them.

As far as I can tell, the only difference with the 84-86 swap is you can reuse your bell housing . I will say though, a good internal slave cylinder normally works very well. Many vehicles use the internal design. I actually prefer it, provided that it’s a good quality unit. Should provide many years of trouble free operation and last as long as a decent clutch.

The MJ’s I’ve had both had the push in style bump stop that doesn’t have the threaded piece. I’ve use the rubicon express bump stops twice now with good results. If you need a longer bump stop than that, use the puck style spacers on the axle side to take up the space.

I posted the parts needed for a swap to the newer style vs the somewhat obscure (albeit intriguing) 84-86 style. You’ll need to pull the trans though regardless. But for sure swap the master if it’s leaking or giving any issues