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That makes sense. I hadn’t considered how PWM was used to control led brightness. Somehow, I feel there may be some lasting effects on our vision with the proliferation of LED tech everywhere, but especially the lower quality stuff like you mentioned.

They are everywhere now it seems. But I’m starting to notice the intense pulse or strobing effect they all have. Seems like the cheaper ones are even worse. I most all led lights strobe at very high frequencies. Anyone else noticing the effect? Feels like it’s causing eye strain. Noticing a lot of aftermarket auto lighting seems to be making it worse unless it’s higher quality

Keep in mind also that the pads you select will play a big roll in braking. Centric posi-quiet is a good setup as they are softer and grab better than most. And make sure to follow break in procedures with new pads and rotors. The braking difference is substantial. Good break pads will create a bit of break dust but that what you want with an otherwise stock braking system.

Thats the all around best combo. Used it for many years with 33’s with no issues and heavy wheeling.

When I swapped in electric windows, I powered them with an 18v drill battery to test them and the speed was awesome. At 12v it was functional but much slower. I ended up programming the alternator voltage control up to 14v and all of the accessories now run very well. But I’m still curious how a 19v would do.

What voltage are you stepping up to?

That’s correct. All the oe sport bars essentially connected down through to the frame of the MJ via the brackets at the front. The style bar you have is likely a universal aftermarket setup. They are quite easy to find so you may be able to find some universal brackets that are made for that bar.

Ultimately, you need to get 12v+ to the compressor and power to the blower motor and you’ll have AC. You’ll also need an AC pressure switch which can cycle the compressor on and off as needed. Those are the bare minimums assuming you have your refrigerant lines plumbed already. If I were adding AC to an MJ, I’d use the factory under dash ac harness. It is a fairly stand-alone harness. It will provide you with variable fan speed via the resistor, integrate the evaporator freeze sensor (not a must have but nice to have) and have all the necessary connections for the hvac deck.

Following up to see if @USN_JeepMJ is still around or if there have been any updates. I know he had his MJ for sale a few months back and just wondering what became of it.

Let me see if I can dig up some pictures of my install. It’s noteworthy though that the later model bosch turbine pump kit has been popping up a lot for sale recently. That’s a drop in replacement style turbine pump that doesn’t require mods. found it: post 15 and 17 of this page:

Very interesting steering design. Is there a reason you didn’t go with the regular ttb y link setup? I’m guessing the angles would have been too severe??

I believe that YJ axles have the same perch placement and distance as the MJ. I’d double check, but could be an option if you find an axle with the ratio you need. If you do swap gears into your axle, get them setup properly. Dana 35 axles need some preload and more often than not I see them set far too loose which causes catastrophic failure. Keep in mind that a Dana 35 on 31’s can be great for under axle clearances. I ran metric 33’s on mine for many years with 4.56 gears.

The changeover to c clips happened in 1990. 1989 and earlier were non c clip. A Dana 35 can be a great axle if you understand its weaknesses and address them. Tire size is a big factor here. What size do you plan on running?

I agree. Of course, we haven’t seen all the pics yet but so far I’m just seeing a decent bit of surface rust. I’ve worked on similar before. I’d suggest a good undercarriage cleaning first. Get under there with a pressure washer with a good blast nozzle and spend some time cleaning it all. You may find clean metal in some areas underneath caked on mud and scale. Once it’s cleaned up though, take a bunch of pictures of what the underneath looks like

There is a time/cost calculation to consider here. A new set of springs from rock auto (need to be replaced in pairs) will cost about $350ish. You can try to find a used pack but they are hard to find in good shape. Repairing the pack can be difficult as they tend to be seized and rusted together.

Someday you’ll be the first to bring to market a bolt on IFS system for the MJ/XJ

I’d probably have to run a thin sub if I did and it would take out some precious behind the seat cargo space. I’d like to keep that area open and keep the system 100% stealth mode

I’m running dual exhaust and the dual cats are under the passenger seat. Not a bad idea though. I was planning on just drilling out 4 3” holes with a hole saw so cutting would be pretty minimal.

I did look into that but the space I have under the canister is minimal. Larger subs can struggle in sound quality. I’d even consider multiple 6.5’s with the right specs and box design.

Having some audio ideas. First off, the sound quality in the cab is exceptional. But yes, I am a bass head . Anyways, the current system is completely hidden. 8” kicker sub under passenger seat and all components in factory locations. Kicker class A/B amp under drivers seat for the component speakers. It’s a clean overall system but lack the depth I’m after. Frequency response fall flat under 50ish hz and it’s just obvious the shallow 8” sub doesn’t have enough airspace to perform in that little under seat enclosure. I’ve thought about several behind the seat options but don’t like the idea of them covering the cab corner speakers which, when tuned, provide a nice mid range boost and even help staging. So a behind the seat sub is out of the question. That leaves a blow through style design. The existing roll top canister leaves about 10” of available space under it. It’s a bit of a dead zone that I can’t use for much else. My thoughts are a 4th order band pass system. (2) JL 8” W3’s in force canceling, back to back sealed band pass design. I would then use (2) 3” ports on each side tuned to 40hz. The vents would go straight into the cab with some nice trim out and would be behind the driver and passenger seats. The box itself would fill the empty space below the roll top canister and be finished in a waterproof coating and raptor lined. It would be serviceable from the bed. I’m thinking this would be a stealthy high performance system that should provide what I’m looking for. Any thoughts?

Build it the way you want it. I did a hybrid on my latest build and wouldn’t change a thing. 97+ front end, full size windows but no bubbly 97+ door mirrors or dash. I will say though, the 97+ center console is much more useful and durable than the stock MJ version.

On vehicles such as ours, the coil spring sets ride height and supports the load but has very minimal effect on ride quality with our suspension design. That is 90% the shock’s job. If your shocks are too long for the application they may also be bottoming out.

Looking good. Did you use the replacement door card panels or your old ones?

I’d suggest either swapping/repairing it or going with the full glass swap. Ventless fixed glass design in the later MJ years was a horrible design imo. Swaping to the later style is tedious but sooooo worth it. This guy did a good video install guide: