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coolwind57

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About coolwind57

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    Comanche Addict

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    Georgetown, IN

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  1. I'd been searching for a deal on a unicorn Lund visor and last week was finally my time. I picked this one up for $50 + $35 for shipping (along with a windshield trim piece). It had zero cracks, but badly faded paint. DA-sanded, and sprayed with black truck bed liner like the rest of my black trim. Installation was tedious. I bought all the SS fasteners from my local ACE hardware. I'm thrilled.
  2. Mine suddenly stopped on me once. Motor continued to make some noise, so I figured it likely wasn't the problem. Turns out, parts of the wiper motor assembly came apart. There are 3 or 4 bolts that hold it all together, which overtime became loose and at least one totally backed out of its hole. It was essentially falling apart. Check out this pic-heavy tread to learn a little more about what Jeep put together for our wiper systems:
  3. Anyone need one of these shocks? I have just a single, and it can be had for $25 and I'll include shipping. I think they're designed for an XJ with 4" lift. They're in a well-worn box, but the shock itself is in new and in perfect shape. Amazon has them for $70 each. Here's some specs copied from Amazon: Body Design: 46mm ID smooth body (Non-coilover), Boot Included: Black bellows, Collapsed Length (IN): 14.88, Collapsed Length (MM): 378, Extended Length (IN): 23.84, Extended Length (MM): 605.5, Finish: Zinc plated, Internal Design: Monotube, Lower Mount Type: Eye 16mm, Old Part Number: F4-BE5-6686-H7, Reservoir: No, Series: 5100 Series, Upper Mount Type: Bar pin, Warranty: Lifetime Warranty
  4. You're talking about windshield replacement along with the upgraded rubber trim, right? I sure was hoping to just replace my metal trim with rubber without messing with the windshield.
  5. Here's an interesting chart: https://www.revolutiongear.com/gear_ratio_chart
  6. Ok, so I had to owner to double check and pull the cover. He did. He recounted as well as found markings on the gear. Also, checked the housing and found a "C" stamped on there. All three of these indicate 4.10. So, the question now is this: What ratio should I make both of my axles if I choose to buy the AMC20? I'm pretty intrigued. Situation once again: 1989, auto trans, 31s (which I don't foresee going any larger), mostly hard pavement, with just a little 4x4 action hauling wood on occasion. Sorry guys, I wish I knew and understood all variables to make a call that fits my truck and my needs.
  7. Or it was regeared to 3:73. Morris 4X4 Center sells 3:73 for AMC20.
  8. Yes, that was my understanding too. I had even asked the seller about it. He said, "that is what the gears come out to. I've counted." I may need to ask him to look for a stamping on the internals to really confirm providing AMC did that. I was under the impression that swapping the D30 axle is actually cheaper than re-gearing it. Significantly. And not that much more of a pain to do. Am I off on that?
  9. I've got some slight noise coming from what I feel is my rear D35 axle. I think I have a minor seal leak to boot. I'm probably on borrowed time before my axle goes out. I'm currently running 31s and I rarely go off pavement, engaging the 4x4. I occasionally load up the bed with mostly firewood runs. I understand that I have the stock 3:55 ratio in my stock automatic trans 1989 model. And I'm still stock, spring under axle. So, I found a local MJ AMC20 for sale. Its really quite appealing, but I was told the ratio is 3:73. According to what I'm reading, the differing ratios from front to rear would be too great for proper 4x4 engagement if I were to swap her in. Also, if what I'm reading is correct, swapping out gears for either the AMC20 or the front D30 to get a match would probably be quite a bit more expensive and time-consuming than the other option I'm looking at: a 03-07 Jeep Liberty 8.25 (with disk brakes) swap. Another option as I understand would be to just swap out the front with another D30 that has 3:73 already to match that of the AMC20. I see this is probably more involved and time consuming as simply doing the simple mods of prepping a 3:55 ratio Liberty 8.25 and slapping on back there. A bit of cutting/grinding of brackets and welding new perches at my leisure is what it would take, as I understand. I dig any and all true, significant upgrades and the disk-braked 8.25 is really cool. But the AMC20 is even badder-assed--both in looks/exclusiveness and stength. Overall, I think I'd be happy with whichever makes the most sense considering costs and my very limited time. I don't think I want to consider any D35 options. Not having done much of any work with axles, are there any options I'm missing here or is anything I'm understanding above that is inaccurate or overstated? Would love to read your constructive thoughts of my situation. The MJ AMC20 is $400. I think the Liberty 8.25s run between $200-300 around these parts.
  10. Yea....my glass is fine. Just wanted to get away from the metal and to a more cleaner look. Especially now that one piece blew off on the highway the other day. I may see if I can pull one from a junkyard and retrofit or something. May have to dice it up a bit. I appreciate the input.
  11. I've unsuccessfully searched for the member that apparently used later-model XJ full, one-piece rubber windshield trim on his MJ. I'd like to do this myself and was hoping to find a post talking about it. Any of you guys done this? If so, should I assume that it's pretty straight-forward?
  12. If it started after tapping your starter, then you may be on borrowed time. Your relay/starter may be on its way out, amigo. If this is the case, you may have 0-10 more tappings to go before tapping doesn't work anymore. Get some more detailed testing done soon.
  13. tap on those battery terminals while you're in the mood to tap components.
  14. I've got this going on: I believe this is the reason my driveshaft and rear axle are all shiny and very-well lubricated.... I've never replaced a seal in a transfer case before. Is it pretty cut and dry? Lay on back in the gravel. Drop driveshaft. Pry out leaky seal with some needle nose or other clever technique. Press in new one? Top off? That about right? BTW: Thank you, Gentlemen.
  15. This looks like a great buy for a 2wd Pioneer. Appears solid and with low miles. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/d/hamilton-1988-jeep-comanche-pioneer/7005672482.html Somebody snatch it up for a bit over a grand.
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