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About coolwind57

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    Comanche Addict

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    Georgetown, IN

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  1. I've had a turn signal issue crop up over these past 3-4 weeks. We all know how funky our turn signals can be on these MJs, and I've found that a good cleaning or replacement of the bulbs usually fixes about every odd-ball, weird issue I've had since ownership. but I'm thinking this issue is different. About 50% of the time that I activate my signals, either side, my dash indicator lights up but it does not blink--just stays solid. Same with the outside lenses...they just stay lit up but don't blink. I've gone through all of the bulbs and sockets with thorough cleaning thinking that I'b be back in business and proud of myself. No-go. Sometimes, after i hit my lever, the dash indicator would light up and after a few seconds it would begin flashing and working correctly. But most of the time it wouldn't work. I've tried toggling back and forth, but really nothing helps. My emergency flashers work, so I would think that this proves my flasher unit is good. I'm beginning to think that perhaps my turn signal lever (stem/stalk) unit may be the issue. Anyone had to replace theirs? Any experiences in troubleshooting or fixing without full replacement? I'd done a search on the site regarding this lever assembly, but can't really find anything useful after 20-minutes. BTW, no cruise control on mine.
  2. I suppose it would not be a bad idea to do it outside, maybe even using a floor dryer blower while I'm under there. Thanks.
  3. They use US Motor works as the pump supplier. At least on the JPSU-6P unit that I ordered. Jeremy said they'd been using this company for their pumps for years.
  4. Just ordered a sending unit assembly with pump. I spoke to Jeremy at MTS Company, who's been there 10-years. He said that it is almost comical that Comanche guys are calling in so excited. I ordered part JPSU-6P for my 1989 LWB 23.5 gallon tank, 4.0 L6 4X4. Some other items that Jeremy brought up about these units: They essentially reverse-engineered them. They use US Motorworks 3204 as the pump on these units and have used this company for years. He said they'd introduced and sold these units only since last Month. I'm kind of giddy about this, as my present unit looks pretty bad and would leak like a sieve if i didn't smear that Marine epoxy all over it. Were you able to remove the old one and replace it without dropping the fuel tank?
  5. looks like no one is carrying those Monroe 58497 any more. Struck out with Walmart, Amazon, and Rock Auto. Must be discontinued.
  6. I sure appreciate the input fellas. Here's what went down after I posted: I attempted to start every 8-10 minutes with the same results. At each fresh attempt, It would initially run for only a second or two and sound really bogged down. Twice it backfired before dying. Loud backfire too. Each time I added a second attempt, it would simply turn over, not coming close to starting again. I called a tow truck and they gave me an hour ETA, so I was accepted my fate that I was going to have to tow my truck back home across the State line. This would had been about a 30-mile tow. $45 hook up fee and $3 per mile if I remember the quote correctly. I had let her set for about a half-hour undisturbed before got a wild hair and decided to crank her over again. Damn thing came back to life as if nothing ever happened. I called and cancelled the tow company and made my way to school in the right lane (in case she died again) of multi-lane Dixie Highway in Louisville. It was a 100-degree heat index day, by the way and my rear was puckered the whole trip. I was convinced that she'd die again at one of Dixie Highway's many LOOOONG stop lights but she drove without a hiccup. Got a 97% on my final and nervously drove home at 11pm, again without a hiccup. I think I'm going with an overheated CPS on this one. Although I do believe my fuel pump probably needs replacement because of an unrelated issue--I have been plagued with slow-to-start conditions for a year now (I've posted on this previously). It is about the only thing I hadn't replaced regarding this sometimes hard-cranking issue. I have never had experienced such a curious, sudden dying of the engine before. First thing that went through my mind was that the engine just blew. I like this idea. I'll steal some keyboard compressed-gas duster and tuck it in my official rag/spare oil cubby next to my breather box. That stuff comes out cool when sprayed and just may be a temporary solution if this happens again. I don't recall ever running the AC at MAX for this long before....I rarely run it at all. I wonder if things just got unbearably hot for the CPS. It is an aftermarket CPS and not the original. I also advanced it a bit when I installed it, as recommended by Cruiser54. I didn't think of this at the time. Good idea. What I did do is check connectors, wires, fuel lines and all general connections throughout the engine bay. I checked the air filter. I inspected engine oil (for evidence of blown head gasket). I squeezed coolant hose and checked overflow bottle for signs of overheating (there was no noise, stains or anything...at the time, the engine was too hot to pull cap and check for adequate coolant). This morning i drove to work. She performed absolutely normally.
  7. Today is final day and I left work to drive to my technical school. I came off the interstate, about a 20 minute drive onto a highway with lots of stoplights. After waiting on the first light, I accelerated and was building up to speed and then the engine just died. Does not appear to have overheated, oil looks good. If I let it sit for a few minutes it will start, although grudgingly. And then it dies after a few seconds. If it starts and I feather the gas, the pedal does not seem to increase RPM. It just ignores my attempts to increase the RPM and just struggles to stay running at a low RPM. Air filter clean. It’s hotter than hell out here so I had the air conditioner set at Max the whole way. No idiot lights. Fuel pump or regulator, perhaps? Anything I can do to check? Anything else come to mind? Found some shade and awaiting your response if anybody’s available. I suppose I’ll have to call a tow truck soon.
  8. coolwind57

    Tool Talk

    Give me the scoop? Angles are better....the wrenches are stronger and slimmer...more comfortable.... What's your reasoning? I think the Snap On offset opens have different angles than most all the others from what I remember reading. My buddy is a former instructor (powerplant) at the school I now attend. He showed me some of his tools. He's got a mixed assortment, even some craftsman stuff. He mentioned that he cringes when he would see a student go 15K in debt buying Snap On tools via the student program. He essentially recommended that if going hard-core Snap On is your thing, then wait till you're out in the field for a few years gaining experience. And do it then if you're into brand recognition. I remember seeing Proto, Craftsman, Snap On, Mac, Knipex in his toolbox. Yesterday, I picked up a Knipex 86 03 250 Plier Wrench. $50, which kinda hurt but this thing is a work of art. I also have their duckbill pliers and dykes. Those krauts know their stuff when it comes to building pliers and wrenches. Super well-made.
  9. We're not a praise or church band. We perform in the tri-state region, mostly big festivals and special music events. We'd even done weddings. www.rockonwaterfestival.com is the next big one we're doing here in a couple of weeks and it's my favorite of the year. Likely to have between 6000-10,000 attendees. Headliner there this year is Unspoken. We've got some of those songs on rotation in areas of Southern Indiana, Kentucky and even Chicago, IL. www.hushharborband.com Yes, BLS. I've been to several concerts and Zakk Wylde and his crew really know how to put on a great show for THE MOST dedicated fan base I'd ever seen. An older album, "Hangover Music" is probably one of my favorites, along with "Mafia." Check those out. He did a pre-BLS album with a group he called "Pride and Glory". You gotta check that one out. I can't believe that the stuff on there isn't well known by metal fans. I'm a STING fan too. Have all his stuff. He's my favorite song-writer.
  10. I'm an 80s rock kind of guy. Hairbands and some 80s pop. Go go iTunes or Spotify and type in "Hush Harbor". This is my band and we have a few tunes there. We're Christian rock. I've recently been getting into groovy, smooth jazz stuff like Sade when I'm in a chill-out mood. For high energy hard rock, I go with Black Label Society--my go-to metal for many years now.
  11. coolwind57

    Tool Talk

    Everything I'm reading suggest a shortage of aviation mechanics and that the shortage is only getting more critical over the next decade. You didn't ask specifically but you seem to be genuinely curious, so here's a little history I'll share of why I ended up choosing this path: I'm a shade tree, weekend mechanic. I've always liked working on cars. No formal training, however. I always admired guys that specialized in one area and became experts in it. From Auto mechanics to HVAC guys to plumbers, electricians.... I can do a little of just about anything. But never specialized and became an expert in anything particular (besides my military career, which was all non-mechanically oriented). My buddy is a former instructor at this aviation school. He's taken a couple years off and is now doing 6-Month recurring Afghanistan tours, teaching Afgan Air Force aviation mechanics. And he's KILLING IT, let me tell ya. Mostly tax free and raking in 6-figures. Anyhow, over the past couple of years, I'd occasionally asked him about his chosen field and always found it fascinating. Aviation in general is fascinating to me. I"ve learned that mechanics are in big demand throughout the industry. I'm a Facilities Manager, taking care of a big 48,000sf office building and 16 residential-type rental homes. This new path started to make a lot of sense, as I thought learning a new specialty was a great sort of "bucket list" item. And the fact that I had this free tuition and books schooling opportunity land in my lap--again, plus I also get PAID to go. The industry seems to be really hungry for A&P mechanics ("More like STARVING" was the clarification of the Director of the program whom had once corrected me). I've got a very full plate now, as I work full-time and I'm still in an active band that has a lot of booked up weekends this Summer/Fall. The program is full time as well --evenings. It's certainly going to be a challenge, but I'm usually not one to sit and let life pass me by. So, what do I expect to earn? Man, here recently I've seen places offering signing bonuses for guys with ZERO actual experience--with just the FAA certification with still wet ink on it. But most places seem to want a guy who's at least performed PMs on aircraft for a couple of years before they start getting into the 50K-75K+ range. I suppose like anything else, the salary range can vary depending on many things.
  12. coolwind57

    Tool Talk

    Dang, nice garage Cruiser.
  13. coolwind57

    Tool Talk

    This post caught my eye. I've just been accepted in an Aviation program. If all goes well, I'll finish and have my FAA A&P license in 2.5 years. I'm currently gearing up for my tool requirements for an August 19th first semester. I get a very generous discount from Snap-On for being in this aviation program, about 50% on most stuff. Snap-On is still pretty expensive even at that discount! I already own quite a bit of tools that are required by the course, mostly Craftsman hand tools. I've got only a few that I'll likely get from Snap-On and I'm definitely eyeballing an offset open wrench set from Mac Tools. I'm having fun shopping and researching. I'm 50 this year and always thought it would be cool to specialize in a particular mechanics field and have formal training in doing it. So Uncle Sam is paying for all tuition and I get a $500 stipend for books/tools per semester. Top that off with my rich Uncle PAYING me to go to school ($1560 per Month) and as you can imagine-- I just couldn't turn it down. The school was pretty booked up. I was on a waiting list, and I was shocked that I recently got the call with a seat for this Fall semester. Now to pull off full-time evening school with full-time work during the day.
  14. I appreciate you sharing. I was aware of the purpose/function of the track bar. And it looks like you and I measure the centering of the axle the same way. Also, my aftermarket CORE 4X4 track bar is certainly adjustable (as are likely all aftermarket track bars). I suppose I was asking about the numbered questions in my original post. I'll go through and recheck setup if Eagle and I have the best/preferred or only method of centering the axle. I'm guess I'm kinda leaning towards bad springs. And I agree....quality parts. CORE 4x4 track bar is impressive.
  15. This is kind of a weird one: Ever since I bought my truck a couple years ago, I'd had issues with the driver's front coil spring rubbing the track bar bracket. The truck appears to have a couple of inches of lift and the sway bar ends were so very close to the springs, so I swapped them out for longer Ford F-350 ends, as I recall. I also installed a new OEM track bar once. I recently replaced the whole setup (track bar, & frame bracket) with an aftermarket Core 4x4. The Core 4x4 frame bracket didn't save me from having the same clearance problems. My driver's spring continues to be within 1/8" or so from the frame. The passenger side clears much better--mainly because there's no bracket taking up clearance room. So, my goal is to center my front axle over the chassis of the truck to get rid of my occasional rubbing noise. I'd attempted this with the new OEM track bar as well as the Core 4X4 bar. Not really much success because of that contact point at the track bar frame bracket. I even removed and shaved off some edge metal from the Core 4X4 bracket to help provide clearance and get rid of the rubbing (which sounds awful on braking/cornering actions). Looks like that wasn't enough to solve the issue. I'd tried centering the axle by using a tape, measuring the distance between the front fender flares and the edge of the front tires. Last time I did this, I had to use a come-along to pull the chassis towards the passenger side to get my measurement equal on both sides. Even when they measure equally, I still have 1/16" to 1/8" or so clearance from that coil to the track bar bracket. 1. So, do I have perhaps thicker springs up front than stock? If my tape measure reads the same on both fenders, and I still get this rubbing, then maybe this is the reason...?. 2. Is there another, more advisable method of measuring the centering the axle? 3. This sounds kinda dumb, but when centering, I'm essentially moving the chassis over to the axle and not vice-versa to find center, right? I would think that the chassis follows the axle (the axle being the solid anchoring point). Am I correct in this thought? 4. Are my springs out of whack maybe? Eyeballing them, they look straight if that means anything. There is no body damage that I can tell...never been in a wreck to my knowledge. Also, the springs were the same color as the original paint--again, if that means anything. Something very screwy is going on here--I would think a guy would never have to shave some metal off of a track bar bracket (stock or aftermarket) to provide spring clearance. I'm thinking I have something going on with parts, or maybe there's a better centering technique that I'm not yet aware of. I'd love your thoughts, guys.
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