Jump to content

coolwind57

Members
  • Content Count

    761
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

1 Follower

About coolwind57

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Georgetown, IN

Recent Profile Visitors

1894 profile views
  1. After hearing your updates, I'm still leaning towards a head gasket issue.
  2. I used to own a ceramic coatings business where the vast majority of my work was for exhaust components. Here's my experience: One of the issues with using header wrap is that it causes so much thermal damage to the headers. Ceramic coatings allow for adequate, normal cooling after the engine is shutdown. Wraps hold that heat in, causing significant thermal damage/fatigue. I've unwrapped SEVERAL headers and 9 times out of 10 it isn't a pretty sight. Usually flaking, rotted out material and busted welds. I thinking one is asking too much of the metal when you put it under those conditions. Ceramic coatings are actually good for exhaust components--cuts down on underhood temperatures quite well, and it is purported that they affect exhaust gas scavenging--you may get get a horse or two just by the coating. Your underhood temps get dropped, which is good in many ways--even helps to preserve your little plastic connectors and tubing from aging so much and shattering as you mess with them. I'm a big Bricklin fan. I once bought #360 on eBay, a '74. I officially owned the car for less than an hour. I reneged on the deal as it turned out to be such a basket case. It was terrible what had been done to that car. I once talked with a guy that worked at the factory. Fascinating stuff he told me. Great, yet bizarre automotive history. I still long to have a Bricklin one day.
  3. Man, I'd love to have that roll bar. You scored a sweet deal.
  4. One other thing to consider is that you may have a head gasket issue. I had this symptom on a Mercedes Diesel once. The blown gasket leaking over-pressurized the coolant system and my hoses swelled like a balloon. Don't know for sure if this could happen on an MJ but might be worth looking in to.
  5. Well, all done. Here's my experience. 1. Obviously, the harmonic balancer was approaching death. But that wasn't the noise-maker. It was the water pump that I put on less than a year ago. Autozone honored the warrantee and I got a free replacement. Hand spinning the water pump make it obvious that it was the culprit. 2. There was no need to remove the radiator. The center dampner bolt is below the bottom of the radiator anyhow. The traditional harmonic balancer removal "loaner" kit gave adequate clearance just behind the rear of the front bumper to get it off. I was able to break the center bolt by gently wedging some locking pliers in between the harmonic balancer pully and another pulley. Removal was smooth. I even forgot to spray the area with break-free before I installed the removal tool. Pulled off with ease. 3. My front seal and timing cover was dry as a bone. I left it along and I lubed up the new balancer contact area real well before installing to try to protect that seal. Took JustEmptyEveryPocket's advice: 4. I saw your advice after I got the job done. I'll see how it goes. It wasn't nearly bad a job as I expected, so God-willing I won't have to remove it again. I'll keep an eye out for leaks. 5. In additional to the removal kit, I also rented an install kit. That was a good move. Went on as smoothly as removal. 6. Fired her up after all was re-installed and she's as quiet as she can be. TONS quieter. I appreciate all the advice fellas. Once again, I benefited from coming on and asking some questions.
  6. Thanks man. I appreciate you sharing your experience. I suppose my post was a little premature, as I just thought to find a youtube video and found a pretty good one that did a good job of showing it all. Any good ideas on how to keep that engine crank locked while getting that center bolt out? Dude on the video mentioned automatic trans guys removing a spark plug and sticking a rope inside to hold it from turning. I'd like to think I can get an impact in there.
  7. So 3-4 days ago I noticed some noise coming from the engine. Sounded almost like some knocking at first but as I looked more closely, I narrowed it down to belt-driven area. All looked ok, with some noticable wear on the idler pulley and maybe a bit of movement of it with engine running. I figured the bearing was going out; an easy swap so I dropped a 20 and quickly swapped it out. The new one turned better with zero noise, although the old one wasn't really that noisy to begin with. Fired it up and I hear the same noise. Water pump is probably less than a year old, with no weeping. Alternator visually looked good, as was power steering pump. A closer visual inspection found what you're seeing in the pics below. I haven 't confirmed with 100-percent certainty, but I'm thinking this is my issue. It kinda looks bad, huh? So, what am I in for? I hadn't pulled a harmonic balancer before. Is it as simple as removing the center bolt, getting a puller in there, and pulling it off, slapping a new one on and getting it aligned the same as the old? Looks like there may be a keyway on pics of new ones, so perhaps alignment and timing isn't such an issue? Of course I'm really not optimistic that its all that simple, so for you that had done this replacement, please spill the goods to hook a brutha up.
  8. coolwind57

    1J7GJ26LXKL616635

    Hey, you got the Dana 44!
  9. Beyond annoying to look at those pics when they're upside down.
  10. Here's a full write-up that I did that you may get some ideas from:
  11. i hear you on this, schardein. My situation was a little less-than ideal and i kind of had to make things happen in short order. I'll explain: I had no idea of what size leaf center pins I had or needed. Hell, prior to reading about the swap here I didn't even know my leafs had pins. Because my wife and I have no backup vehicle, I had one weekend to rip that D35 out and make the D44 happen in time for the upcoming workweek. i knew what size head I needed for the D44 but that's it. ...no clue what size the D35 perch hole was or what diameter bolt/pin shaft I had prior to my target swap weekend. I could not pre-order anything not knowing what I'd actually require, if anything. Doing what I did may be an option for those whom find themselves in less than ideal knowledge levels AND less than ideal time situations, let's put it that way. How's your D44 project coming along?
  12. yea, it actually states "Limited Slip Friction Modifier Included" on the front of the bottle.
  13. I did see the spiral metal stuff for sale, but I used factory double flared ends. And I read that the stuff is really designed for non-preflared tubing. I figured the plastic loom would be cheaper, easier and no issues with any possible dissimilar metal corrosion if that would even be a concern. By the way, one thing I failed to mention: I did not use any friction modifier. I thought I'd start off with Mobile 1 (75w90) and do some figure 8 before adding anything. So far, looks like I'll be ok. Mobile 1 was on sale, 2 for $10 and states that it already includes LSD additive.
  14. Ok done. All together and took her for a spin. No differential whining anymore. All smooth. Figure 8s in the local church parking lot and my Limited Slip gave me no chatter. My brakes still need a bit of adjusting/bleeding. I want to still run some wire loom over my new brake lines. My drums had been coated silver Chassis Saver and it does not look good when viewed from the side through my turbine wheels, but I'll take my tires off tomorrow and shoot some black spray balm on them. I'll remount my spare tire too, which will mostly block my axle altogether but that's fine. I'm pretty pumped up. Nothing exploded apart on the test run! Yea! First full drive to work tomorrow morning.
  15. Wow. Now tripled, at least in my area. I clocked out at $110 total today. So here's a pic of my newly shortened driveshaft. They went ahead and replaced the front U-joint, as they had to remove the old one to do the work. That's their standard practice it seems and it only cost me like $11 so I didn't sweat it. Kind of like removing bearings, they automatically replace U-joints if they remove them as well. My rear It is my assumption that they chopped the front end and not the trailing end of the shaft to shorten the requested 1". The welds look great. They went the extra mile and smoothed up my slip yoke seal surface and shot some black paint on the driveshaft. Not really much to see with my pics below. I wish I had a "before" pic. I did notice that to balance, they must have had to remove one of the two balance weights that used to be on at the D44 end of the shaft. Anxious to get home from work to install and see where I am on this project. Man, I'm hoping I'll have her back on the road tonight.
×
×
  • Create New...