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About coolwind57

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    Comanche Addict

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    Georgetown, IN

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  1. I couple years ago, I used this Crown o-ring kit and had no issues. Kinda surprises me about Fel-Pro. They seem to always have the good stuff.
  2. Dropped my axle shafts off at a local, reputable big-truck shop. They do axles all the time. I asked the machine shop dude if he'd be willing to reused the bearings, as I thought they were just fine. He took one look at my bearings and said, "I wouldn't put these back in." He showed me some tiny grooves/lines that I didn't see. Said they'd be noisy. I trust him and I'm cool with using new ones. . He also recommended that I use a dial indicator to check pinion backlash. Slopiness and out-of-spec will have me pulling the pinion and carrier. I brought up the LSD and how it seemed to be working by hand (spinning the yoke) and my general truck use (rare off of pavement, daily driver, etc). So when I was a teenager, I helped build the original owner's house. About all the guys there are relatives of him and his son is the new owner. We were chatting about the old owner for several minutes. So the machine shop manager told me to just bring my axle assembly in and he'd take a look at it and check to see if the backlash was within spec. He's going to give it the once-over to make any further recommendations. My biggest curiosity is the condition of the LSD. I'm blessed with a budget that at this time would support more significant work on this axle but I'm not wanting to do anything close to unnecessary. I loaded my axle assembly this morning and will swing by at lunchtime to see what they say.
  3. I'm not sure I'll take the time and effort to weld those tubes as I rarely go off-road, but looks like it might not be a bad idea to shoot some silicone around them, as we have at least one of us reporting leaking there.
  4. Yea, I just watched a good youtube video on welding these tubes. The dude heated to above 350F and kept it there during the welding process. He used a certain welding tactic to help prevent too much thermal movement. He also wrapped his finished job in a fiberglass blanket to retain the heat for like 8-hours.
  5. I did remove my shafts today. My wheel cylinders were pretty new, as they only have some surface rust along the top. The bottom end, as installed were still unrusted. This leads me to believe that perhaps the PO had removed and replaced the wheel cylinder to fix his now obvious leaking. The seals looked pretty bad. I had to use some persuasion to remove one axle, sure because that seal was so rusty and seized up. The other came out quite easily. I was expecting the worst for the bearings, but they look great. Races look great too. My plan is to take my axles to a local shop and have them pull and replace. If they are concerned with the bearings, then I'll consider replacing them at that time. Sure appreciate your help. Good idea! I've heard of tube welding. But what do you mean by plug welds reinforcement? The only plug I can think of that you mean is the diff cover.
  6. These D44s aren't C-clip or anything are they, Pete? Just held in by the backer plate 4-bolts, right?
  7. Ok...looks like seal removal requires removal of an retainer as well as the bearing. This might get interesting.
  8. Same here, the D44 spring plates are a lot worse condition than my originals. Are you still planning on running the Load-sensing valve? I do have the diff cover bracket for it if you need it. I'm not going to use it. I'm going to go ahead and pull my axle shafts. I have found evidence of one outer seal leaking, coating the brake area. I'm off now to look up how to do it. I think I had pulled axle shafts in the past, but I hadn't done one with limited slip before. I was really kind of hoping to not do a complete rebuild with new bearings and such. And rebuilding that LSD....oh boy. It would be pushing my comfort level.
  9. Just went out and measured both axle tube diameters. D44= 2-3/4" D35= 2-1/2". I also measured my truck's axle plates/brackets (as best I could with the D35 still on the truck). It appears that the D44 plates that I got from the seller are the same. The ends of my U-bolts seem to match the D44's hole diameters, although I could not get the pairs to fit into them as I held them up to slid on. I think this is due to the slight distortion of the U-bolts having been torqued tight, but I'm not sure. I was laying on cold, wet ground so discomfort trumped some accuracy in my inspection here. It would had been interesting to check the diameter of the D44's U-bolts. I think the guy cut them off to remove the axle anyhow, so I didn't even think of grabbing them. This Dana 44 was full of road grime, but there is no evidence of any wetness at pinion yoke or near backing plate. He must have had some pretty significant engine/trans leaks, but the road grime appeared dry, overall. I spent an hour or so scrubbing the axle last night, with more cleaning later today. I pulled the cover and although the lube seemed low and dark, the gears looked fabulous. Nice and shiny mating surfaces and no distortion. I had mentioned earlier that the limited slip works at least when spinning the yoke by hand. Good stuff here, guys. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I'll report back as things progress.
  10. Anyone have stats on Dana 44s throughout the MJ years--specifically about gear ratios? Are automatic for 1990 showing up as 3:55 or 3:54 ratios? How the heck can one tell a 3:55 from a 3:54 by rotation?! I bought a D44 "with 3:55 ratio" last night and after cleaning up today, I can make out 3 54 on the tag. I pulled the cover and the ring gear last digits are 46-13, which comes up as 3:538. Looks like I just bought a 3:54 to match up to my 3:55 front D30. I should had pulled the cover-- but is this even a concern? Can I match this up with my 3:55 front diff D30? I searched here but only found some comments regarding this on other sites. What's your thoughts on this, fellas? Just for kicks, here's a couple comments from another Jeep forum: Dude #1: "Don't be alarmed if you see 3.54 on the gear. It's basically the same as the newer 3.55, they just started to round up." Another dude said: 3.54 and 3.55 will work together but they are different.A 39 tooth ring with an 11 tooth pinion is a 3.55.A 46 tooth ring with a 13 tooth pinion is a 3.54.So the 3.54 has a bigger pinion and is thereby a somewhat stronger gear set.
  11. Very good. i suppose I won't know the shank diameter until I pull my D35 off the springs. Well, that kinda kills my plans of doing the swap in a couple of hours (or maybe even a day). Now....i suppose I need to find a supplier.
  12. I'm assuming the centering pin is the pin sticking up from the center of the leaf springs, just under the U-bolts in the pic above. What's an acceptable fix for this if my spring's centering pin is indeed too narrow for the D44's hole? Add some sort of adapter or shroud over my existing pin? Modify the hole in the axle in some way? What have other's done?
  13. I spun the yoke by hand and the axle shafts spun in the same direction, so I suppose at least with hand-speed the LSD is working. I'll take a week or so cleaning the outside of this axle up, ordering new brake parts and getting some POR-15 on it. Then, I'll likely take it over to a driveline shop and have them eyeball it. So if that LSD is worn or bad, what are the repercussions? Just an open diff? Noisy clutch discs? Any harm running it like that? I am diggin' what I'm reading about the benefits of LSD, so I have no intention of neglecting it or being without it. I had asked him if he himself had driven on this axle and he confirmed he did and that there were no issues with it. The reason he sold it was that he was converting to a more heavier duty off-road truck and he already had an 8.25 sitting around with the serious axle ratio he desired. His truck was rough, man. Looks like he's going for more of a off-road toy than anything.
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