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coolwind57

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    Georgetown, IN

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  1. The thing I like about the open system is that I simply understand it better and therefore can troubleshoot problems easier. Seems much more resilient in my opinion. When I converted mine, I kept the original renix radiator (no fill port) and bought a in-line filler neck and installed it on my upper radiator hose. Dumped my problematic pressurized tank and replaced with a junkyard XJ overfill bottle. Doing the in-line water fill neck route, I didn't have to buy a new radiator for the conversion and saved a lot of money that I didn't necessarily have at the time. Also, I didn't have to fool with a T-stat housing/sensor swap and mod that I think is involved. This might be a desirable option for you if you're tight on funds and your radiator is in fact still good. Good luck on getting this all behind you.
  2. Pulled the distro cap and cleaned well. Removed deposits from electrical contacts, which I was sure to be the problem. There was certainly buildup. My cap is a napa copper, so a cleaning and not replacement was in order. I got to all intake bolts on the top side and only a couple on the bottom before giving up. Only an exhaust-only bolt seemed looser than expected. None of this solved the problem. Last night I pulled the plugs. They all looked the same, none being oily or burned. Replaced with new NGKs. Popped in an air filter. BAM! Looks like this took care of my problem. Runs smoothly upon startup now. I recall cruiser54 saying that plugs should be changed every 30k and I suppose that was all that was needed to fix this issue. Thanks to everyone for participating in my post. Funny thing: After getting it all fixed and was swelling in pride, I turned my headlights on to check on alignment. As I switched to brights, I lost them. Neither low/high come on now. Perfect. I love my MJ, but she keeps me on my toes ALWAYS. haha More troubleshooting after work tonight. It never ends!
  3. I did swap out to another IAC after cleaning it all. No changes. Sometimes I do get ticking for a minute or two, as if a lifter is temporarily dry but it goes away promptly. I've been experiencing this for years though. Intake bolts are SO HARD to get to. I attempted the other night, but ran out of time. Took out the breather box and still cursed and hollered like a crazed lunitic. I'll take another shot at it maybe tonight or tomorrow. MAP to throttle is good, and it's all new hoses and elbows about a year ago. I disconnected at MAP and engine promptly died. I'll pick up some new plugs on the way home after work as soon as I remember what Copper plugs I used. I think I went with something different that what Jeep recommeded back in 1989. They're probably 2-3 years old I'll see how each of my old plugs look as I pull them. Anything else come to mind, fellas?
  4. This issue showed up a few weeks ago. Engine runs really quite rough after start, but after a minute or two smooths out and purrs like a kitten. Yesterday, this rough idle (sounds kinda like its not firing on all cylinders) lasted considerably longer and took about 2-3 miles of driving before it cleared up. I hadn't had the chance to look into it yet, but this morning and at lunch today I'm getting the same thing. Runs rough for 2-3 miles before taming out and running well. I do feel a loss of power during the time it is running like hell. What's my first check? Idle Air Control Valve coking? intake leak, maybe? What would you guys do with this symptom. My copper plugs are probably a bit over a year old. Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm in 2018. You know, I think it would be nice if we had list of symptoms and troubleshooting guide maybe on a sticky. Would be nice for members to quickly search and find solutions and tricks to problems like this as they creep up. Just a thought, Pete. Would help with redundancy in answering member's questions too.
  5. I kept the early Renix closed style radiator and went with an upper hose aluminum filler neck. Pulled a recovery bottle from an junkyard XJ (and along with my bumper-mounted vacuum bottle), located it on the right-side firewall. There's a small temp sensor or water neck hurdle up front when converting from closed to open system--I can't recall off the top of my head without going out in the parking lot and looking, but anyway I avoided having to deal with that by retaining the early closed radiator. Save a lot of money too. To each his own, but I thought I'd share my method of converting. I've had no issues with my system.
  6. Done that already, Cruiser. Very happy with the results. Highly recommended. Good Lord, I hate the thought of pulling my dash again to trace those vac lines. Sounds like that's in order it seems. Was hoping for a simpler troubleshooting strategy.
  7. Update: Well got it all back together and running now. I pulled Evap Core, and did a complete delete of my AC system. I really didn't use it much even when it did blow cold air and I really like the simplicity of working on my engine now anyway. Tons of room now. Blowing HUGE heat now, but I have lost ability to toggle between cabin zones--it's just blowing up the defrost vents. I checked my vacuum hose running out the firewall into the vacuum ball. I've got vacuum there. I checked for vacuum inside the cab at the controller. There's the group of vacuum lines that forms into a single rubbery port that plugs in the back of the controller. I'm not detecting vacuum there. Shouldn't I? I was quite sure I had plugged everything back in as I reinstalled the box into the cab. Yet its still pushing air to the default defrost vents. Does this jump out to anyone? I checked the individual ports that's neares the gas pedal. They're plugged in they're appropriate diaphram. I manually (mechanically) moved the diverters by hand and air does move, but I have zero input from the controller itself. Any particular thing I'm overlooking that I need to check with this symptom?
  8. coolwind57

    The gun

    Want the ultra-reliability of the Glock, but want to move up from that Renix-era MJ/XJ boxy Glock-like look? i did, with my daily carry FN Herstal FNS-9. Rugged, reliable utilitarian function like my MJ 4x4 but with a sexy 2021 model Jeep Comanche body.
  9. By the way, I was able to bypass the NSS for a few days until my new one came it. I just cut and modded the harness which is found under the hood. I still have the old modified pigtail plug just in case mine goes out again in another 30-40 years. I can snap a pic of it if this ends up being your problem....again, providing yours is an automatic trans.
  10. Same issue several Months ago. Turned out that on my auto MJ, it was the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). Replaced and all good. Good luck, Sir.
  11. coolwind57

    The gun

    Great analogy. Funny
  12. Along with pulling and rebuilding my air box with new heater core, I swapped out my cracked red dash to a black one that I had picked up a couple Months ago. Got it all back together last night. Looks smashing. So, anyone have any luck with interior vinyl paints? I did a search and saw SEM products but GOOD LORD they're expensive. Anyone have any luck with the less expensive plastic-bonding paints that you see in Home Depot and Walmart these days? Only thing I don't have black interior piece replacements for are my door panels and I kinda worry about paint adhering to them well because the vinyl is so pliable.
  13. So below is what I currently have going on. With the compressor removed and a shorter belt installed in the way that you have yours, the fan will be rotating in the wrong direction. I'd be interested in seeing a pic of your setup, especially of your waterpump-mounted fan. I'd also like to know what belt you're running.
  14. I purchased an AC delete pulley from jdog. I I'll need my existing mount to install it in place of the compressor but I appreciate the offer.
  15. I'm not tracking you here. Are you saying that yours came from the factory without a compressor? If that's the case, then yours has a factory AC delete bracket with pulley. If someone removed your compressor, then I'd like to know if they were able to route a shorter belt without adding a factory AC delete bracket.
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