Jump to content

coolwind57

Members
  • Content Count

    694
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

1 Follower

About coolwind57

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Georgetown, IN

Recent Profile Visitors

1694 profile views
  1. Good stuff. This makes a lot of sense now. Well, I just read this reply only 30-minutes after I found and fixed the problem. I popped the driver's side Euramtec dome light out. AHA! Red wire had worked its way out of the spade connector that installs on the back of the light. I suppose that bare wire easily found some metal to touch. I hadn't soldered that connector when I first installed my new lights. I popped a new fuse in the block and wouldn't you know that I got lights, PLUS clock, PLUS radio back. What you said above make all the sense now and I thank you for schooling me on this circuit. Power/Ignition OFF has to come from somewhere, right? You're awesome, Minuit.
  2. I've got an electrical issue that, being honest here, I won't have time to begin physically troubleshooting till this weekend. But I thought I'd go ahead and run this across you guys because I'm struggling to resolve this in my head as I continue to ponder it. Here's the deal: My interior lights just quit working. Also my radio. Also my clock. The clock is an XJ junkyard clock I installed a few years ago. First thing I did was pull my RADIO fuse at the fuseblock. It was good. I then pulled my CLOCK fuse. It also was good. Pulled the DOME fused and it was bad, so I popped a new fuse in there and it immediately blew (open door, engine off, key off). Having a handful of fuses, I did a simple cold morning, parking lot troubleshoot and I installed another fuse, this time with the door jam dome light switch pushed in (as if the door was closed). The fuse again blew immediately. That's as far as I've gotten so far and again, I won't have any time to dig into it till Saturday. I have an aftermarket radio that the PO had installed, so I don't really know which circuit he used. I would assume he'd used the correct RADIO circuit. But of course you never know. I'm 99% certain that my XJ clock was plug-and-play if I recall the install correctly, with the MJ already having the correct wire and connector in place for a clock. We can assume that this Jeep connector should have the clock on a separate circuit with a unique CLOCK fuse. I'm a bit confused on why this single DOME circuit is effecting my other two circuits. Am I wrong in assuming that Jeep truly separated these three circuits into 3 separate circuits? Surely no partially joined or anything funky like that. Pic below is my fuse block, identifying the DOME circuit with the bright yellow fuse that's sticking out a bit. Unless you guys chime in with something I'm missing, my plan it to pull my headliner to check wiring. About a Month ago I installed a Lund visor. Maybe one of the fasteners finally rubbed into a dome light wire. I'll then probably pull the dash and check the radio and clock wiring for bad spots. Regardless of this, I still can't resolve why my DOME circuit would effect the other two unless they are somehow.not truly separate circuits. If circuits are sharing paths, then is this a inherent Jeep wiring thing or not and just a previous owner crazy wiring issue that is just now creeping up?
  3. Same here. I did a complete EGR delete, removing EGR, solenoid, all other components and blocked off the intake/header and eliminated all associated vacuum lines. Cleaned up the engine compartment a bit and I certainly expect no vacuum issues of this area of the engine. Ever. Runs like a top.
  4. I welded the cracks and then installed gussets between I think the last couple of header primaries. For the gussets, I just cut some triangular pieces of 1/4" flat stock I had laying around and welded them in place to further strengthen the primaries that were most prone to cracking. You may consider this as an extra header strengthener as you're welding your cracks. Also, I did the flex pipe mod. Here's some stuff taken from my build page that may interest you: So today I stopped by the exhaust shop. Got some pics. Now that I'm back up and running, I am concerned about my exhaust header cracking again. I had welded the cracks on my header when I had it out of the vehicle and even welded on a gusset between the last two primaries. Upon advice from the forum, I had a 6" flex pipe welded on my header pipe. Also, I wanted to address additional support (hangers) with the shop and I asked them to put an additional hanger at the bellhousing. I had to ask what the tab bolted onto my bell housing was a few weeks ago because it did not appear to attach to anything. Well, the guys welded on a clamp, giving the front of my exhaust system some additional support: Additionally, a shop guy said that I was probably suppose to have one at the transmission mount. I had no idea that there was suppose to be one there. A PO had deleted my CAT so perhaps that's why I didn't know that anything mounted there. Anyhow, he corrected it by installing this: So, I feel much better about hitting bumps and flexing my truck now. He charged me like $30 for parts and I think $80 labor, which I didn't feel was too bad. I have a flux-core welder and can get by with minor welding, but I was really ok with giving this job to a pro. I feel it paid off as I learned a thing or two from them today.
  5. A little late on my build page, but: I got my 58484 Monroe Loadleveler shocks installed back in October. I did have to run to ACE Hardware and buy 4 brass bushings to bring the ID of the shock eyelets to the 5/8" needed. I also had to bend over a gas tank edge with some pliers a little but it was no sweat. See new clearance in the 3rd pic. I have the larger MJ fuel tank, btw. My brake line and rear wiring went overtop of the shock already. I did have to hang the e-brake cable a bit further from the coils of the new shock, which I did after 3rd the pic was taken. These shocks raised my rear end a couple of inches and I'm fine with it. I also installed Bilstein 5100s, part #24-185622 up front. I took a 100-mile trip to Indianapolis and I'm pleased. I'm anxious to haul some wood in the back now and see how she performs compared to before. Of the 4 shocks I replaced, 3 were bad. One had blow completely and was leaking, the other two extended/compressed inconsistently. This was well-needed replacement and I think a great upgrade. Looking for coilover rear shocks to boost your load capacity? 58484 Monroe's unlike the others, are available and seem to be your answer.
  6. MeanLemons, I'm still very happy with the one I bought from you. Thanks for getting out there and making something happen for your brethren here at CC.
  7. Well he just replied back. He says it's a Dana 35 rear. Those springs are surely not stock, it seems. Thanks for your input, fellas. Back to my search for a D44....
  8. Ran across an ad for a parting-out MJ. I zoomed in on the pics and saw these rear springs: I'm intrigued. Man, I think these are possibly 4+1 metric ton springs. I contacted the dude to ask if he had a Dana 44 sitting up under there. He's not sure, as he's not really up on what he's got there in the Comanche, but is going to verify everything when he gets home. Its a 1988 with an automatic trans, so I'm hoping for 3:55 ratio to match my front 3:55 on my 89 MJ. Again he seems to know little about this stuff, only saying that he thought it was all "heavy-duty." I've offered to buy the springs and rear axle if it's an MT 3:55. It's in the next State over, but if the stars align up ,then I'm game for a road trip. I didn't mention the front coils, but if its true metric-ton, then I'd offer to buy them too--as I understand their slightly beefier too, correct? Any comments from you metric ton experts? This look promising?
  9. I'm still curious if your wiring setup is different than the ones I have in my photos. Again, I have no "delay" feature. I ran my ground wire to one of the T30 bolts mounting one of the wiper arm stems. I wonder if you're grounding out the LOW by using the lid instead or something.
  10. One thing stands out to me: You mention a "delay" mode.... I don't have a delay on my 89. Just a Off/LOW/HIGH switch on my steering column stem. I wonder if the additional ground has something to do with it. Was your wiring exactly as mine are in the pics?
  11. Mine were horrible before doing these mods. The blades would never consistently line up on the windshield and no matter how i adjusted them, they'd usually always slide off onto the windshield trim, making noise. The bushings were the culprit to this issue. I especially like the upgraded 97+ wiper arms with the J-hooks over the stock pin-type arms. The design just makes so much more sense. Also, upgrading the grounds--across the entire truck, is always a need on our MJs.
  12. coolwind57

    wake up call

    Praise the Lord you survived it, my brother. Pretty scary stuff.
  13. I had forgotten to post to my build thread when i bought them, but I thought these D-rings were a cool decorative touch to my military-theme:
  14. I think my plan is to stick with 3:55 (same as I have up front) when I purchase my KJ axle. I'm running 31s with no desire to increase that size. Starting to look like no one has actually done a KJ 8.25 swap. I'm taking my time, as I have nearly zero down time these days, but I'll surely do a write up or at least show progress as I transition out of my noisy D35.
  15. Did you guys see this 1986 2.8l with only 58K miles? Very clean. Only real problem is that there's no title. And the guy seems resistant to help acquire one. I really dig those 10-slot grills. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Comanche/293339009577?hash=item444c5e1229:g:zcIAAOSw1LJd1Eoj
×
×
  • Create New...