coolwind57

Yes, I remember that feature in past vehicles. Was actually a great thing. If you found you didn't have fluid left in the reservoir, then you didn't have to drag your wipers across the windshield without the lubrication from the fluid, avoiding unnecessary surface wear or scratches.

Yea man, that old gear oil looks pretty contaminated. Compare that look with what you're putting back in there. Sure makes you feel good after doing an oil servicing, doesn't it?

Euramtec is the way to go. I've got them in mine. They're so close to the original design that I seriously doubt that anyone would see them and accuse you of "molesting" your original truck. You'll put them in, enjoy them and never look back. Like I did. If I remember correctly, you will need to take a sharp blade and remove a little bit off the mounting hole in your trim panel. I've never had mine to pop out ever. Wiring wasn't a big deal....just cannot remember exactly what I did but it was super simple.

Hey Jack, I had a similar situation. Went through seemingly everything before I found out that it was simply my Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). The crazy thing is this--I had replaced my NSS only 2-3 years ago. The NSS was at the bottom of my list of things to go through, and low and behold that was the issue. Try replacing yours. They're not so expensive. Good luck man if you haven't fixed yours already. Let us know if you got yours up and running.

NICE! Fun to watch.

Oh, I was thinking that the Mac's tank was a replacement pressure bottle. My bad. It's been several years since I did my conversion. And I'm old. The water neck adapter on the top radiator hose is still a much cheaper option.

When I bought my truck, I had looked into the Mac's tank and just couldn't pull the trigger with that high price. I decided to convert to an open system, which to me simplified dealing with the system in my tiny brain. Instead of replacing the radiator with a later one with the filler neck, I kept "closed radiator" and installed an aluminum filler neck adapter in my upper radiator hose. Pulled a junkyard recovery bottle from a later XJ and made it all happen lickety-split. Might be something to consider. No real issues with that critical purging of air from the system. Takes out that failure-prone bottle/cap from the equation. Give you a modern-type coolant system that may be easier to troubleshoot. I remember being quite surprised that Jeep had used a closed system--this was the only vehicle I'd ever bought from that era that had such a system.

Plug and play? No resistors needed?

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Makes sense. By the way, did your 87 come with the Dana 44 or did you put it in?

Was definitely sticking with Rotella for sure. Rotella T6 is suppose to have plenty of ZDDP. I'll probably go ahead and go to T6 here in a couple hundred more miles. Hopefully, my engine won't develop leaks all over. The old guys used to say that switching over to synthetic from dino causes leaks, but I'm not so sure if that's really a thing nowadays. Thanks for the input, fellas. I was reading to use straight SAE 30 "Break-in" oil. I used Lucas brand that I ordered from Amazon. I seem to recall that I started and ran the engine for like 20-30 min or so and I think I then dumped the SAE30. I filled with Rotella T4 with a bottle of ZDDP additive and ran for 500 miles. I could be wrong, but I think that's how I did it. Regardless of whether or not I did it this way, I did ask the machine shop guy for his concurrence and he agreed with what I had read and planned. Different ways to skin a cat. Thanks for the input.

Last year I had an engine built. I bought a freshly bored (.040") 1993 block and had the machine shop go ahead and fit as a short block with upgraded pistons and all block components. I had them install a Comp "RV" camshaft and had extensive cylinder head milling to the 1994 HO 7120 I had bought, installing modern Hemi springs in order to match the camshaft lift specs. Anyhow, I've got a little over 3,000 miles on the engine presently. I broke the engine in with 30wt break-in oil. I changed to 10W30 Rotella T4 and I added some ZDTP additive, which I think I ran for 500 miles. Replaced the oil with another round of Rotella T4 10w30 and again added some ZDTP and have run this to present day, 3K miles. By the way, I have no worries about zinc and catalytic converters....I don't have one. The end goal was to at some point go to T6 Rotella synthetic and reap the benefits of the good zinc content for our 4.0s with the known sweet tooth for zinc. For those of believing in and using Rotella products: I'm curious of when you guys would do the switchover to T6 (and maybe even would you). Should I hold off for a few thousand more miles? Should I transition to T5 synthetic blend and then later go to T6? At what mileage would you go to T6?

My lift hasn't changed since I've owned the truck.

I've not looked back. No issues since I did my mod.

Can't disagree with that. I've got the 22mm all around, but it would had been nice to not have to add the elbow grease.