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coolwind57

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Everything posted by coolwind57

  1. I'm getting ready to pull my dash to replace it and to pull out the old heater core, which I think is clogged. I freeze in the Winter and attempts to flush were always futile. Is there a gasket and/or foam seal kit for these heater box assemblies? If not, has anyone built their own seals? Also, I'm running original R12. Should I assume I'll have to disconnect the Evap core too? If so, I'm trying to figure if I should just go ahead and convert the system to R134A, as my AC effectiveness has gone down a bit this past year or so since I owned it. And R12 is a bear to find in my
  2. yea, well don't get too caught up in strict traditionalist mindset. I think that's mostly an American thing. Average Scots aren't so up tight as we are over here. Lots of guys really shoot for perfection, ensuring they know each and every detail to make conversation and be able to explain their attire to the max degree. My Surname made its way across the water from Scotland into Ireland at some point. Irish kilt wearers chose "County" or regional tartans (if at all...lots did solid colors, like Saffron specifically) and not Clan or family tartans at all. It only really start
  3. My single female Co-worker gave me this today. She found it in her recently purchased home in the back of a closet. She had no idea what it is and thought of me, as the only dude Co-worker at the facility. Looks unused. I lucked out, as these things are GOLDEN to have when you need them. 5pc, O2 Sensor tools with chasers kit. Can't beat the price.
  4. Amazon. And yes, I tapped into turn signal wiring for power. That horizontal line in the middle lights up white when wired as day running lights (DRL), and yellow when wired with turn signals. There's a set of wires for turn signals and a dedicated set of wires for DRL. I still hadn't gotten my DRLs up and running yet, but I feel there is no need to run a relay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FCKHJMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 White DRLs cut out as yellow replaces them as soon as you hit your turn signals. Yellow flashing only--no whi
  5. My Brother is a Piper: I'm not a Piper, but I play bass in a Christian rock band. We have a show next Month in Poplar Bluff, Missouri and I plan on wearing a kilt ensemble of some type there just to spice up the stage show. I'll probably incorporate some Piper Spats like my Brother has on in the above photo. Really dresses things up a bit. I have the same as my Brother pictured as well as a solid-olive Utility Kilt. Clan MacDonald tartan, by the way. What's your go-to?
  6. We got any kilt wearers here?
  7. I'm sure you'll be impressed as I am. Great pattern of light without frying the eyes of other drivers. Super white light. These units are not cheapo either. Well-made and heavy. Seems like a hefty cast aluminum bucket. I'm happy with the quality for my $160 investment.
  8. Curious where you went to get your source DC. Under the hood somewhere, or did you go through firewall to fuse block maybe? I've got a set of LED headlamps with built in turn signal/DRLs. Got the turn signals hooked up and hadn't yet had the time to get the DRLs up and running. Not my thread, but hey here's a pic of what I'm running:
  9. Yea, I may go on out later today to get those items. Opportunity doesn't come around this often. I put in a rear windshield when I first bought my truck, but would be nice to grab this one for inventory I suppose. Several rust-through spots above the flares. I'm a LWB guy, so I didn't pay much attention to this SWB bed. I now have two spare brake light lenses, but I'm not sure if they're opposite sides, I'll have to go check. I can go back and grab the other lens and sell or do some kind of trade if you're interested. If I get back out there today, I'll snap some pictures
  10. Thanks man, I knew it was a pretty good score. They charged around $54.11 for the tailgate and $80.09 for the dash. $23.49 for the tail light lens and $21 64 for the interior plastic (kick panels, doorjam covers and A-pilar trim). Funny, they had a $5 core charge on the tailgate.
  11. yes, data plate still on the dash. Looks like 1JTMW6411HT187961
  12. About 2-years ago, I pulled parts off of a junkyard Comanche at Louisville Kentucky's Pull-A-Part. It stayed there for only a couple of more Months and disappeared. I scored the back windshield and some other goodies. I remember signing up for a notification list for any future Comanches. Hadn't heard anything since. Until today. I wasn't very optimistic as I made my 20-minute drive this morning. I had a couple hours of free time so why not just ride over on a nice day. As I made my way to the truck, I fantasized about it having a good tailgate, brake light lenses and maybe
  13. I had an unfavorable outcome with the MTS Company-produced units. They modeled the one that I had ordered off of an 87 and it didn't work for me and I had to return it. Great customer experience, so I was disappointed that I could not work with them on this project. Maybe they have more Comanche senders that'll fit all years now. My experience is chronicled on this thread:
  14. i wouldn't know how to advise on any tricks to easier starting until we found out the culprit. If it is the fuel pressure regulator like my issue was, then there's no real starting trick--you just gotta get that thing replaced. During my ordeal, I noticed that it started easier and better when it sat for a while. This was essentially because unbeknownst to me the fuel that was improperly being sucked into my intake from the leaking regulator was given the time to dry up and not interfere with starting. Until i figured my problem out, I tried long cranks and I tried short burs
  15. Agreed. When you go out to buy your rotor and wires, rent a fuel pressure gauge set (most of the parts stores have them for free rent if you're not already aware). After your tune-up items, hook up that test set. A bad fuel pressure regulator was the source of my delayed starting a couple years ago. It was leaking fuel into my vacuum hoses, causing flustering long starts and an obnoxious poof of rich smoke that further elevated my embarrassment. I feel your parking lot pain, bro.
  16. By the way, I rebuilt mine after loosing my full-size tire going down the highway. When that tire dropped on me, it momentarily lodged under my rear bumper at highway speeds and literally catapulted my rear end skyward. I had no idea what happened other than maybe a Sumo wrestler ran out in front of me that I didn't see and I ran over and killed him. Several of us use ratchet straps as a backups for the tire carrier. Highly recommend this. My tire could had went through someone's windshield. I feel very lucky. Grab a full-size tire. Rebuild that ca
  17. That'd be so cool if they pose for a shot near Don's truck. Good to hear from his family.
  18. Get a picture of the front of your harmonic balancer. When I looked at mine closely, it was pretty apparent that the rubber insulator was done with life and wanted to end it all. I don't recall this job being anything extraordinarily difficult. In fact, I'm trying to remember for sure but I don't even think I removed the radiator, but it's been a while.
  19. Why did Jeep get rid of the C101? One might assume because it was showing up as a cause of problems a few years later. Or maybe it just cost less to build the harness without it.
  20. Excellent recommendation on trying out each wire individually. As far as deleting the connector, it appears to me that the only reason they have one there is for ease of initial assembly or manufacture. I'm can't really think of a really good reason that one would need one there later down the road after the build. I know that the C101 connector is notorious for causing trouble. Is there any particular reason you recommend not deleting this connector? If I'm correct, then the connector could be seen as a possible weakness--especially if perhaps the heat damage starte
  21. Well, I found my problem. There's a wiring bundle connector just behind the kick panel, driver's side. That sucker looks like it took a missile hit. Wiring is all melted together something awful. I'm hoping that there was just some bad connection within the connector that caused the overheating. Or may some rubbing that caused it. I've started my repair, which consists of deleting the connector and soldering in ten each, 6" wires. I don't have enough length after cutting out the connector. Melted wires were entirely on the rearward end of the connector, not the front end.
  22. When I bought my truck a few years ago, it had the original front disc and rear drums. The Height Sensing Valve (HSV) half-assed deleted by PO. Still had 2 old crappy rusty brakes lines running to rear. Acceptable brakes as a whole, but I chose to renovate it for since I had my truck mostly apart with other projects anyway. I chose to start things off by trying Cruiser54's front Proportional Valve (PV) trash and replace procedure, aka DELETE. This seemed logical as a way of simplifying things and perhaps improving front brake performance.. Plus He's got real-world ex
  23. Pete, I can't recall when or where I posted this write-up originally. I can't seem to find it in its original form. I don't think it is currently in the write-up section. Would you like me to clean it up a bit and post it there?
  24. I am thinking it was like $250. Guy included spring shackles. It is an LSD unit...or whatever Jeep called their system that's not coming to me at the moment.
  25. Hey man, go to this conversation I started back when I did my axle upgrade: I think Pete M was going to put this thread up in the Write Up section, but I don't believe he ever did. It's got lots of pics and lessons learned from my experience. The MJ Dana 44 is gold, bro. Bulletproof, made specifically to go in the MJ and RARE. Bug the heck out of Jesse J until he gives up the 44 before someone else nabs it. Lucky you; You're even in the same area as him too--Dude, that's a sign from GOD. By the way, I have beloved friends that live in Syracuse, UT...righ
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