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Everything posted by coolwind57

  1. Nice looking truck. I'm a flat-green-MJ kind of guy too.
  2. After a more thorough troubleshooting, same here. I'm finding gasoline in my vacuum. Gotten any further, Hudy? I've got a new Standard Motor Products PR-21 on order from eBay. Paid $27. Local parts stores sell them for $70-85. I just have to wait nearly a week to get it in. Thanks Warren. It sure looks like this may be the gremlin I've been searching for.
  3. Dang man, Warren Mohler was on to something! I hope this is your issue. Not a bad fix if this is the case, as fuel pressure regulators are only 25-50 bucks. I pulled my vacuum line both while sitting for a bit and immediately after the engine running. Mine is dry. Certainly has a fuel odor, but I'd think perhaps that's to be expected. I may parts cannon once again and pick up a regulator despite my adequate fuel pressure readings. Anxious to hear your results when you get a new regulator on there, Hudy. Good luck, man.
  4. i kinda wondered if anyone would put the "IAT sensor relocate" mod on this tread. I think I remember HornBrod (RIP, Brother) not having a good experience with it. I had done this relocate on a HO Cherokee years ago, and toyed with the idea of doing it for my Renix MJ.
  5. What's the big white thing mounted on the tranny hump? CB radio perhaps? Truck looks really nice, man. I'd love to see what that rear axle is. I'd also love to peel back the carpet a bit and see what those floor pans look like. Garage-kept or not, finding no rust there is like finding a unicorn. I'd be proud to own this one.
  6. Just ordered mine through Walmart of all places, $63.58 with Indiana tax. They get them in quicker than Amazon and I have a Walmart walking distance from my work. Crazy variation in prices everywhere I found them. Costs for these shocks at auto parts stores are MUCH higher. FYI for those interested: The Monroe 58484 has a 9-inch travel length. Extended Length is 23.125" with compressed length at 14.125". Looks like a good fit for my truck. Anxious to have them installed. I'll take pics and give a review. Good find, Jeff's Jeep! Thanks man.
  7. Good stuff, thanks! I did find them for $59.42/pair on Amazon and Walmart can get them for that price too. https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58484-Adjust-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000CGEJJU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=58484+monroe&qid=1570711355&s=automotive&sr=1-1
  8. I'd had this same condition TWICE since I've owned my truck. As soon as I read your symptoms, I immediately suspected the same culprit as MJCARENA did. Next time you have your throttle body off, do this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=280. It makes for a much better fix. Welcome to the addiction, my friend.
  9. Great stuff. I'll run out and check mine later today. Thanks for the tip. Would be wonderful to finally resolve this dumb issue.
  10. For those of you interested, Tomco of St. Louis, MO makes an Air Temperature Sensor and have for a while it seems. http://www.tomco-inc.com/ They do have a new part number, replacing the old #12120. New part number is 12134 and it runs $69.73. They have them in stock. Telephone: 314-646-5300 I read that some guys were using the 312-190, modifying with the AC Delco PT307 harness, which is quite a bit less expensive possible option. Just sharing what I've been searching about today.
  11. Where do you get with your IAT (aka Manifold air temperature sensor and by other names)? Looks like you found some issues but I didn't see a followup. I'm reading that its resistance is read by the ECU to help determine fuel/air mixture. If it doesn't do its job and is an open circuit (non continuity), it causes the ECU to enrich the fuel/air mixture on a hot engine because it thinks the engine is cold. Sounds like it can be related to our issues. Apparently, same goes for the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) located on the driver's side of the block. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm I'm going to go check mine along with my CTS when I get some time.
  12. Did you order the 58497s? My local Advance Auto says they can't order them. Not even in the system.
  13. Well, a new coil isn't the solution. Same ol' issue. Sorry man. Keep us updated por favor. I just heard a comment after starting last night as I left work, "Good Lord man, is your truck running rich?"
  14. ok new coil installed. Honestly, I have my doubts but I found an extra 20-bucks and bought this part so why not try. Will report back in a couple of days with results or disappointments. Here's a comparison between the old and new: The NGK is a bit thinner, but has all copper contacts. The stock one has copper contacts below, but a silver-colored contact where the coil wire fits. NGK cover completely surrounds the stacked plates, where the old stock one surrounds 3 sides only. There were several other aftermarket brands available that were cheaper, but opted for the NGK due to brand recognition and reputation.
  15. I've got a new ignition coil that should arrive today, but I won't get an opportunity to install it till tomorrow. This has been a slow and steady parts-cannon approach for me, as I've replaced and properly tuned/adjusted nearly everything possibly associated with this issue. I'll let you know what happens. Only two other things I can think of that I hadn't yet done: a new fuel pump and Cruiser54's injector harness crimp repairs, both of which I'd deemed least likely a cause. .
  16. Shipped it back today and I'll await to see if the refund goes smoothly. I did get a chance to multimeter the float arm to check for resistance throughout its range. It gave me varying degrees of ohms as I lifted the arm, like it was suppose to. I measured resistance at the lever joint and at the connector. The float arm length difference between theirs and the stock assembly was discussed earlier and you can see that they're not identical. Perhaps this is why I was not getting a gauge reading when I had a quarter tank of fuel. Regardless, not registering a 1/4 tank is not acceptable to me. I suppose I'll have to live with my epoxy'd original sending unit. The white marine epoxy used to seal the leaky metal tubes coming out of it has lasted almost a year so far. Maybe one day I'll send my fuel sending unit out to Tristarr like Limeyjeeper did. I would like to see if 87 and below MJs used MTS' style of flimsy sending unit. But there is most certainly something goofy going on with their choice of float arm length as it appears to be inappropriate for my 23.5 gallon tank.
  17. I remember putting a new tank on a couple years ago and getting those hoses lined up in such tight quarters was a b#@#! I bet whoever worked on it last did the best they could at the moment and said "close enough". Hate to say it, but you may need to drop the tank and bit and look for kinks or abnormalities on those rubber lines leading into and out of the tank.
  18. EXACT issues here, Hudy so I feel your pain. I'd posted about it in the past too. Delayed starting after excessive cranks with significant gas smell when it does come to life. I've been dealing with it for the last year or two. I've replaced nearly every component with an abbreviation plus many more parts involving the starting and general operation of the engine. Reading with great interest. Dying to find a culprit.
  19. I spoke with Jeremy this morning about my issues with the new fuel sender/pump. He said that they'd essentially reverse engineered from a 1987 unit that they'd gotten from Florida. Their new units are nearly exact duplicates from it. I suppose the Florida unit was different from mine then because my has two, very secure attachment points for the pump, with two rubber isolators that are secured onto the pump body. As for the sender not registering on my fuel level gauge (aka, not working), the only thing he could come up with is that they use some sort of spray preservative and that perhaps the gasoline didn't have enough time (or a high enough level in the tank) to dissolve it so that the sender could begin to send the signal to the fuel level gauge. I suppose that could happen. Anyhow, I didn't have my multimeter at the house to check ohms and I'll try do get that done before I pack this thing up and send it back to them. Thankfully, he is willing to honor the return. BTW, I forgot to mention to Jeremy about the tank ring not fitting the tank as others have also found to be the case. I was excited about this new product and I feel very disappointed that it did not meet expectations. Too bad because MTS seems to be a really cool company that's not afraid to take on this kind of stuff.
  20. The old assembly has this. It is the top one that has screws that allow for pump removal and adjustment, I assume. This new one has no top secure point.
  21. No there's just a flat metal ring down there that surrounds the intake nozzle of the pump. There's no positive secure point at all.
  22. Well so far, I'm disappointed in my new fuel pump/sender from MTS. At the bottom of the pump, there is a thick rubber piece. In fact, it was loose inside the shipping box when my parcel arrived. It does neither fit well onto the lower pump body, nor does it secure into the lower mount of the sender unit. I don't get it. The stock pump has both a upper and lower mount for the pump. BOth ends have a rubber sleeve and this makes the old pump fit securely onto the unit. With this one only having a lower mount, the pump just basically just dangles and because the rubber piece that's intended for the lower mounting bracket secures neither to the pump or the mount well, it just dangles on there, not really doing anything. I'm half afraid that it'll separate from the assembly and end up inside my tank no longer attached to anything. I carefully went ahead and installed this unit with apprehension, and my truck fired up but the sender is not working....my fuel gauge shows zero when I have 1/3 of a tank full. I don't have my multi-meter here at home. And like at least one other guy reported, the gasket ring does not fit. I had to use my old one. I pretty upset that I spend this much time for nothing.
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