jodawill

I tried using regular hoses first. The problem is that out of all six of the hoses, only one of them is actually the same size on both ends. I tried going the route of using tees and adapters, but it turned into an unmanageable mess. I suppose that's the route I'll have to take if the hoses from Rock Auto don't work. I'm assuming that the specs on that double elbow hose are wrong. Hopefully it all works out.

The specs for this hose is contradictory: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1332841&cc=1181720&pt=6892&jsn=3243

According to Rock Auto, this is what I need for the heater valve assembly. This appears to be correct. I think I was wrong about that long one being a double elbow. I still have an issue though because the double elbow one that connects the tee to the water pump says 5/8" to 9/16", which is not what I measured. It should be 5/8" to 3/4". Perhaps this is a data entry error?

I'm trying to track down all of the heater hoses for the original configuration. The hoses I'm finding online just don't seem to be correct. Rock Auto (and everywhere else) lists this 9/16" to 5/8" hose. But my measurements put it at 5/8" on the tee and 3/4" on the engine. Should I buy these and stretch them to fit? There's this 5/8" to 3/4" elbow, but the original has two angles. Here's my understanding of what I need: The heater valve has three 5/8" connections: Goes to the 1/2" connection on the side of the reservoir - straight 5/8" to 1/2" hose - FOUND Goes to the 5/8" connection on the heater core - straight 5/8" hose - FOUND (common hose) Goes to the 3/4" connection on the water pump - 5/8" to 3/4" double elbow The tee also has three 5/8" connections: Goes to the 7/8" connection on the bottom of the reservoir - maybe stretch the 5/8" to 3/4" elbow? Goes to the 3/4" connection on the heater block - maybe just stretch the 5/8"? Goes to the 3/4" connection on the thermostat housing - 5/8" to 3/4" double elbow Could someone shed some light on this? Thanks!

The Dorman vacuum hose assembly is garbage. I ended up using silicone to get the connections to stay together.

Wow. That's a wildly simple solution. There's several options here to consider. The Pioneer stereo seems like a great solution functionally, but it's definitely not the look I'm going for here. The aux input would keep the original stereo in place, but feels kludgy. I'm not sure which route I'll take yet. If it wasn't my grandpa's truck, I would probably just replace it and move on. If anyone reading this knows how to repair the original stereo, please reach out to me.

You're probably right. They were completely flattened, flush with the metal. I never saw oil dripping from it, but it probably had a very slow leak.

Are those mounts supposed to be the same? The difference between them seems a little wonky. Is it riding a lot smoother now? I can't remember what was on the other side, but I recall it being something that looked more difficult to remove, so I just went with the old setup. Now that I know it's an issue, I'll plan to do the motor mounts and the oil change at the same time. It was just really annoying because I had already changed my oil twice in less than 1,000 miles and I had to drive to the store to get some oil. Now that I've done it once, I feel pretty confident that I could do this within an hour next time. It seems like the majority of my time on this truck has just been spent figuring out how to do things. Any time I have to redo something, it goes pretty quickly. I also replaced the oil cap and the o-rings on the filter housing. I'm sure they were original as well. I'm not sure whether they were leaking, but I love replacing things before they become a problem.

I tried, but there was something in the way (just barely) on the other side, so I just put it back the way it was. And apparently that's the way it came from the factory because that was the original motor mount! It's running MUCH smoother now.

Thanks for the recommendation! I might pick up the cheap Pioneer for now. I don't love the way it looks, but it does at least have a dimmer for the lights. I haven't seen that before. Do you mean the bluetooth dongle plugs directly into the antenna jack? Does it only work on a specific channel? I've been using a bluetooth FM transmitter in the cigarette lighter, but, because the backlight doesn't work, I can't see the display to change the channel when there's interference.

It looks to me like there's supposed to be a motor engaging to pull the tape down when you push it in, but it isn't being powered on. It's probably related to the issue with the backlight not receiving power. This is way outside my area of expertise. If anyone out there is able to fix it for me, please message me. I'd love to pay someone to find someone to pay to repair it. For now, I might just replace it with a cheap Bluetooth stereo. I'd really like to keep it original long term.

I installed the new splash guard today. I'm super thankful that Detroit Muscle Technologies is reproducing these. It was pouring rain really hard today after I installed it. I'm glad I got it done! Here's a before and after picture.

I haven't been able to find it on eBay. I've never been to a scrapyard before. Maybe I should go try to hunt it down.

I'm looking for a tan lap belt for a 1990 Pioneer. I'm not concerned about the state of the webbing because I would have it re-webbed, but I'm looking for the original tan plastic. Does anyone have any in reasonable condition? I haven't had any luck searching online.

I just finished changing the motor mounts. It turns out they're original! They appear to be dated November 1989. I just changed my oil a couple hundred miles ago, but I had to drain the oil again because the oil filter was in the way of the long bolt. Then the thing the filter screws into was also in the way! (I have no idea what that's called.) It turns out you can remove that. There's a bolt underneath. Now I need to put the filter back on and hook up the vacuum hoses. The hoses will be a project because I'm not sure where they all go and all of them are loose.