Spinnakerblue89

Yeah, I've decided the modulator is how I'm going to go. Aside from the switch, it'll be cleaner.

I have to say, I've been doing a lot of research ever since the OP mentioned adding USB to an original radio would present its challenges. I've decided to either go with a Bluetooth FM transmitter or an FM Modulator to use USB. With that said, I would be interested in getting my original head unit looked at. I wish to retain the stock look. Also, my head unit does not have a tape deck.

FWIW, mine have been on since 2022 and I haven't had any issues. You want a really sick set up with that harness? Hook your MJ up with some IPF, Hella, or Koito glass headlamps and put some Sylvania Sylverstar Ultras inside. Your be amazed how good those look, and they ain't even LED. I've done this exact routine on four vehicles now.

But did that help? I installed the Ksuspension headlight harness in my MJ and it left a little to be desired, but it works great nevertheless.

That's a fair assessment, I pretty much figured it would be the case.

I have a plain AM/FM radio that needs a little work done. But for me, I don't use Bluetooth ever, I use USB or SD card. Is that something that would be doable with these old radios? I hate the modern one I have inside my truck right now, not because it's bad or anything, but because it ruins the aesthetic.

The module on my '93 ZJ lost its lower speeds but not full and max. I disassembled it and found no obvious issues- possibly a capacitor. Except my soldering station requires calibration!

Not the most relatable experience by recently I have been dealing with cooling issues on my Land Rover. It seems a popular choice to replace the OEM fan and Viscous clutch with different heavy duty or severe duty models. Maybe that is an object to think on.

Thank you for your input. I had to take an unplanned hiatus again due to a random heart attack that nobody has answers for, no blockage or anything, possibly nerves. Had an operation for SVT and now I'm all set to go. Looks to be a rainy weekend, so I'll spend the weekend practicing on the welder. And since it seems like the floor pan is being suggested as the starting point, I'm actually quite glad because it's the one area I'll only know about and for a first job, it's a little more forgiving if my welds are not so pretty. No worries about me, I'm actually in fine fettle!

Added structure maybe?

That's about what I was thinking. Best to cut my teeth on something invisible. Appreciate the feedback, folks!

So should I do the rockers first or floor pans first? I get the heat concerns but I'm always trying to figure out what sequence would make the best sense too...

I have a set of Jeep Cables on my 1993 ZJ and by far I prefer them! In my '89 MJ, I decided to try out the K Suspension cables, but I don't think the kit is as good as the Jeep Cables one. And definitely invest in a good set of headlight harnesses. Behind some IPF/ARB 820s or some Koito H4s, those things GLOW!!!

I never left, but I had so much stuff going on that I had to effectively put the Pioneer on the back burner. Now I have my eyes set on it again. So to recap- I have to weld on new floor panels, inner and outer rockers, cab corners, and the cab supports. I already have the two floors cut out, but what being that the MJ is a unibody, I wonder what order I should go in putting these parts on? Basically, I wish to avoid stressing the frame or letting it stand without sufficient support, whatnot... Thanks!

So, I've run into this sort of thing before, but in reverse. My 1984 Bronco II was originally a light metallic blue that was never offered in the Bronco II. It was however offered only on the 1983 Ranger, and so my truck was built using leftover paint, apparently. On the flip side, which would be your case, I wonder if that color you are seeing was used on a different Chrysler product at the time and sit he truck was bucked to use such color.