coolwind57

Anyone have an AC delete compressor bracket that they don't need? Or, has anyone come up with an easy solution for fabbing one? Mine's an 89 Renix 4.0, so there's none available on Amazon/eBay that I can find. Availability is great for 91+, but of course Renix is tough to find. Got one for sale? Can work out a trade if you need a rear brake lens, maybe? I may have other extra parts laying around too.

yea, the shop topped off with ATF+4 if I remember correctly. Curious what others are using, especially for added performance.

I paid a local shop to put in an axle seal, which required new bearings as part of the job for my D44. Less than a week later, I was hearing some concerning noise and naturally I thought they screwed up the bearings install. Turns out, the noise was coming from my NP231 transfer case. Less than a year ago, I had installed a new rear seal on it and I now wonder if I had indeed topped the 231 off afterwards. The shop checked the fluid level and it was about a quart low. They topped off and the noise almost immediately went away. After driving for a few days and with the windows down, I can faintly hear that same noise, although just barely this time. I was thinking of dropping the fluid, and adding all new with maybe a kiss of some kind of additive, maybe a Lucas product or something. Just to maybe give a bit more protection and further prevent noise. You guys got any recommendations on NP231 fluids/additives?

Got my Dakota 40-20-40 seats from a local junkyard. No wear and in near perfect condition. They were from a late 90s-early 2000s Dodge Dakota. i found a set with the high headrest. Had them in since 2018 and I love them. Had to modify mounting brackets, of course. Best upgrade EVER.

Can't thank you enough for all the pics and direction.

Was fully expecting to pull the dash. Really need to know for sure if I can accomplish my mission of replacing heater core and resealing box without compromising evap core or AC unit.

So I'm going to go ahead and pull my heater box for the first time, probably next weekend. My heater core is clogged and puts out nearly zero heat, even after multiple flushes. BTW, I've got the original R12 AC system. Is it a possibility that I won't have to disconnect the evaporator core or otherwise compromise my AC system in order to pull the box, replace heater core and reseal the box? Never been in there, so asking those who have the experience.

I'm getting ready to pull my dash to replace it and to pull out the old heater core, which I think is clogged. I freeze in the Winter and attempts to flush were always futile. Is there a gasket and/or foam seal kit for these heater box assemblies? If not, has anyone built their own seals? Also, I'm running original R12. Should I assume I'll have to disconnect the Evap core too? If so, I'm trying to figure if I should just go ahead and convert the system to R134A, as my AC effectiveness has gone down a bit this past year or so since I owned it. And R12 is a bear to find in my area. Appreciate any sharing of experience.

yea, well don't get too caught up in strict traditionalist mindset. I think that's mostly an American thing. Average Scots aren't so up tight as we are over here. Lots of guys really shoot for perfection, ensuring they know each and every detail to make conversation and be able to explain their attire to the max degree. My Surname made its way across the water from Scotland into Ireland at some point. Irish kilt wearers chose "County" or regional tartans (if at all...lots did solid colors, like Saffron specifically) and not Clan or family tartans at all. It only really started to become a thing there about a hundred years ago--very recent. In the big picture, the whole dang modern kilt (waist to knee version) is quite new too, really. My take is that most kilt wearers just appreciate seeing others out there doing the same. I'll likely do a Saffron flash set with my solid olive kilt at a future show. The saffron kinda representing my Irish side. Black Watch is a common tartan that is used to death, especially for weddings here in USA. I love the colors, but it is just so over-popular that I like to express my creative side a bit more than to sport it. They're not all clan or family. The US military services have their own. I may sport the USMC tartan one day. There's surprisingly little "restrictions" on wearing the attire as long as you're not just a douche. Of course, take some time to at least read the basics about the attire--don't wear the kilt with the pleats to the front or you'll look like an idiot. Utility kilts especially, are very casual with many wearing work boots and no flashes, sporran, etc. Makes for better physical work attire than you'd ever think it would. And much more "manly" than you'd ever think. Hey, and chubby guys usually look better than skinny guys in them. Bonus for me! Don't let that dissuade you, Pete. I've seen African American and Asian dudes and gals in them. Watch some Highlander games on Youtube. Super comfortable beyond what I originally imagined they'd be.

My single female Co-worker gave me this today. She found it in her recently purchased home in the back of a closet. She had no idea what it is and thought of me, as the only dude Co-worker at the facility. Looks unused. I lucked out, as these things are GOLDEN to have when you need them. 5pc, O2 Sensor tools with chasers kit. Can't beat the price.

Amazon. And yes, I tapped into turn signal wiring for power. That horizontal line in the middle lights up white when wired as day running lights (DRL), and yellow when wired with turn signals. There's a set of wires for turn signals and a dedicated set of wires for DRL. I still hadn't gotten my DRLs up and running yet, but I feel there is no need to run a relay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FCKHJMJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 White DRLs cut out as yellow replaces them as soon as you hit your turn signals. Yellow flashing only--no white in between, I believe. The opposite headlamp remains DRL. I saw a video of a guy that had them installed showing how they worked before I bought mine. I was surprised by the quality, really. They have what appears to be aluminum housings and are quite heavy. I chose them because they appeared to NOT be typical thin Chinese plastic crap.

My Brother is a Piper: I'm not a Piper, but I play bass in a Christian rock band. We have a show next Month in Poplar Bluff, Missouri and I plan on wearing a kilt ensemble of some type there just to spice up the stage show. I'll probably incorporate some Piper Spats like my Brother has on in the above photo. Really dresses things up a bit. I have the same as my Brother pictured as well as a solid-olive Utility Kilt. Clan MacDonald tartan, by the way. What's your go-to?

We got any kilt wearers here?

I'm sure you'll be impressed as I am. Great pattern of light without frying the eyes of other drivers. Super white light. These units are not cheapo either. Well-made and heavy. Seems like a hefty cast aluminum bucket. I'm happy with the quality for my $160 investment.

Curious where you went to get your source DC. Under the hood somewhere, or did you go through firewall to fuse block maybe? I've got a set of LED headlamps with built in turn signal/DRLs. Got the turn signals hooked up and hadn't yet had the time to get the DRLs up and running. Not my thread, but hey here's a pic of what I'm running:

Yea, I may go on out later today to get those items. Opportunity doesn't come around this often. I put in a rear windshield when I first bought my truck, but would be nice to grab this one for inventory I suppose. Several rust-through spots above the flares. I'm a LWB guy, so I didn't pay much attention to this SWB bed. I now have two spare brake light lenses, but I'm not sure if they're opposite sides, I'll have to go check. I can go back and grab the other lens and sell or do some kind of trade if you're interested. If I get back out there today, I'll snap some pictures.

Thanks man, I knew it was a pretty good score. They charged around $54.11 for the tailgate and $80.09 for the dash. $23.49 for the tail light lens and $21 64 for the interior plastic (kick panels, doorjam covers and A-pilar trim). Funny, they had a $5 core charge on the tailgate.

yes, data plate still on the dash. Looks like 1JTMW6411HT187961

About 2-years ago, I pulled parts off of a junkyard Comanche at Louisville Kentucky's Pull-A-Part. It stayed there for only a couple of more Months and disappeared. I scored the back windshield and some other goodies. I remember signing up for a notification list for any future Comanches. Hadn't heard anything since. Until today. I wasn't very optimistic as I made my 20-minute drive this morning. I had a couple hours of free time so why not just ride over on a nice day. As I made my way to the truck, I fantasized about it having a good tailgate, brake light lenses and maybe even a black interior. Holy cow. I scored. I couldn't believe that tailgate was still on there. Little to no rust and one real dent that needs attention. I couldn't believe the tail lights were on still. I took driver's side tail lens, as the passenger side wasn't so good. Yep. Black interior. My burgundy dash has a big crack in it, and I was never so fond of the color anyway. I pulled the black upper and lower dash and most of the black plastic trim. I've got Dakota seats in my truck so no interested in the bench seat. It was rough anyway. The donor was a SWB 87 with 2wd and 4.0L engine, manual. Door panels weren't so good. I left the b-pillar plastic, as I didn't have the time to get it and I think I'll stick with keeping my burgundy in there. All Glass good, rear was 3-panel. I initially pulled the rear glass gasket (well, "trim") but I goofed a little area of the lip in the lower center. I decided to leave it, as I knew my dash, light and tailgate was going to max any budget I thought I'd stick to. Bed rusted through above fender flares. D35 in the rear. No apparent mods to the engine bay. Here's the bootie I scored: I wish I had gotten some pics of the truck.

I had an unfavorable outcome with the MTS Company-produced units. They modeled the one that I had ordered off of an 87 and it didn't work for me and I had to return it. Great customer experience, so I was disappointed that I could not work with them on this project. Maybe they have more Comanche senders that'll fit all years now. My experience is chronicled on this thread:

i wouldn't know how to advise on any tricks to easier starting until we found out the culprit. If it is the fuel pressure regulator like my issue was, then there's no real starting trick--you just gotta get that thing replaced. During my ordeal, I noticed that it started easier and better when it sat for a while. This was essentially because unbeknownst to me the fuel that was improperly being sucked into my intake from the leaking regulator was given the time to dry up and not interfere with starting. Until i figured my problem out, I tried long cranks and I tried short burst cranks. I tried cursing. A lot. I tried prayers and even caressing the dash pad and speaking soft words of adulation. No significant difference in helping the ol' girl to fire up. We're anxious to hear what you find as you continue to troubleshoot.

Agreed. When you go out to buy your rotor and wires, rent a fuel pressure gauge set (most of the parts stores have them for free rent if you're not already aware). After your tune-up items, hook up that test set. A bad fuel pressure regulator was the source of my delayed starting a couple years ago. It was leaking fuel into my vacuum hoses, causing flustering long starts and an obnoxious poof of rich smoke that further elevated my embarrassment. I feel your parking lot pain, bro.

By the way, I rebuilt mine after loosing my full-size tire going down the highway. When that tire dropped on me, it momentarily lodged under my rear bumper at highway speeds and literally catapulted my rear end skyward. I had no idea what happened other than maybe a Sumo wrestler ran out in front of me that I didn't see and I ran over and killed him. Several of us use ratchet straps as a backups for the tire carrier. Highly recommend this. My tire could had went through someone's windshield. I feel very lucky. Grab a full-size tire. Rebuild that carrier instead of replacing with a junkyard unit. You'll better know the condition on the internals. On mine, I installed a new stainless steel cable, POR-15'd it and lubed the heck out of it. Ratchet strap that bad-boy after getting your tire in place.

That'd be so cool if they pose for a shot near Don's truck. Good to hear from his family.

Get a picture of the front of your harmonic balancer. When I looked at mine closely, it was pretty apparent that the rubber insulator was done with life and wanted to end it all. I don't recall this job being anything extraordinarily difficult. In fact, I'm trying to remember for sure but I don't even think I removed the radiator, but it's been a while.