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Eagle

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About Eagle

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut
  • Interests
    XJs, MJs, Photography, Travel

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  1. With all due respect, if the shimmy started at 55 MPH, the stabilizer and track bar didn't fix it, they just hid it. I can't explain why it's always at 55 MPH, regardless of tire size, but a shimmy that materializes at 55 MPH and goes away at 60 or 65 MPH is always caused by tire balance. This has been the case since even before I got my driver's license. I remember my mother being concerned about a shimmy in her then-new 1958 Rambler station wagon. 55 MPH. Tire balance cured it. An automotive tire-wheel assembly is a gyroscope. If it's properly balanced and the wheel isn't bent or out of round, it can't shimmy. If it does -- it's either out of balance or out of round.
  2. Just watch out for the bolt pattern.
  3. You're looking at pulling the dashboard anyway, unless you buy one of those kits that just hangs beneath the dash. If the evaporator is still in your heater box, it's probably shot by now and will need to be replaced. And the reality is, you might as well replace the heater coil while you have the dash out, because it's going to go soon. I had to replace the heater coil in my '88 XJ several years ago because it started peeing on the passenger side carpet.
  4. My '87 had aftermarket air in it when I bought it. I believe the brand is American Air, which I think was owned by AMC, and I'm fairly sure it was a dealer0installed kit. It works okay, but on mine the kit didn't include a new control panel so the operation isn't exactly like factory air. The truck is at a friend's house at the moment so I can't provide a photo, but if your truck doesn't have factory air -- that's what my dashboard looks like. I don't remember what turns on the a/c function -- must be a separate toggle switch for the compressor.
  5. Make sure you get some real coolant into the system. At this time of year you don't have to worry about freezing, but coolant also has anti-rust additives in it.
  6. It burps itself. That's what the overflow bottle does. Be sure the bottle is 1/3 or so full when cold.
  7. Comparing my build sheet to the master list, the master list is missing the following: AGK . . . "VTS" Package [No, I have no idea what that was. The truck is a Chief] BCQ . . . 750 AMP Battery CGX . . . Restraint Assy - Drver Airbag w/ Belts - Red GSC . . . Right O/S Mirror-Manual-Black JAY . . . Analog Cluster, Rallye w/ Tach [My truck didn't have a tach -- but I bought it used, so possibly it got swapped out] MBJ . . . Rear Bumper-Step Type-Black/Black PE4 . . . Colorado Red Primary Paint HE4 QE4 . . . Colorado Red Secondary Paint HE4 WJD . . . 15x7 Styled Steel Wheel - Painted XEA . .. Tow Hooks
  8. I have a dealer-produced build sheet for my '88 MJ Chief. Let's see if I can attach it ... Build Sheet - Red 1988 MJ.doc
  9. Here's a link to the procedure for bleeding the rear brakes if you have the height-sensing proportioning valve: I have never disconnected the proportioning valve connecting rod. It's easy to do, though, so why not do it right?
  10. Didn't we start a project a long time ago to have people scan their build sheets and post them in a central post for reference? If not, we should. Then any missing codes could be added into the master list. But, to be accurate, we would need actual build sheets that people find under the seat or in the door panel. I have had my dealership print out build sheets for used XJs and MJs for me, and some of the codes showed things that were never available on an XJ or MJ. Daimler|Chrysler apparently recycled codes, so there may be some overlap.
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