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Eagle

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About Eagle

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    Male
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    Connecticut
  • Interests
    XJs, MJs, Photography, Travel

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  1. I agree -- that doesn't look very good. More important, the fuse panel is two parts. One part is on the engine side of the firewall, the part in your photo is the other side. To really investigate the condition, you need to remove the screw that holds the two halves together, separate them, and inspect those contacts.
  2. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    As I think we have already determined, the ground wire was clearly added at some point after the house was built. It comes into the box through a separate opening on the bottom, not through the top with the hot and neutral conductors. Stupid me, I was about to write that it's a code violation because it doesn't have a strain relief or a protective bushing at the opening in the box. Then I woke up and remembered it's a ground wire, so it doesn't have to be insulated and it's supposed to touch the box (:duh:), so an insulating bushing would be counter-productive.
  3. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    That's not especially helpful since wire size is rated by amperage, not voltage.
  4. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    I stated that incorrectly. There should be no current in the grounding conductor (or the metal boxes) at all if there's nothing plugged into the outlets. The grounding conductor (the third hole in a 3-prong receptacle) is there to protect the operator if there's a fault inside an appliance or device that would allow current to energize the outer enclosure that people can touch. By providing a path to ground for such stray currents, it's supposed to prevent the stray current from going to ground through you when you pick up or touch the defective device. Again to save me having to go back through the entire discussion -- do any of these circuits have both light fixtures and wall outlets on the same circuit?
  5. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    Correct -- there should be current in the grounding side only if/when there's a fault in the system. I hate to suggest that it's time to spend money, but -- it may be time to spend some money. It's almost impossible to track down phantom problems in an electrical system, especially when the wiring is all concealed in existing construction. You may need to hire a qualified electrician to run a "Megger" test to try to isolate which circuit or circuits is/are causing the problems. http://insulationresistancetest.com/ Not all electricians have the equipment to do a Megger test so, if you call someone in, be sure to ask if he/they have the equipment and if he/they are experienced and qualified to use it.
  6. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    No idea, they run through the wall somewhere and I've been unable to locate their destination anywhere in the crawlspace or attic. I can't help thinking they are part (maybe even all) of the problem. To save me going back through the entire thread -- where is the main electrical panel grounded to? Does it ground to a water pipe, to a well, or to a pair of grounding electrodes (big metal stakes) driven into the ground and buried? Story: My house was built in 1950. I know this exactly because my parents had the house built. This was the boonies in 1950. I have a well, and when the house was built the electrical system was grounded to the steel well casing through a connection to the pipe leading from the well to the pump, which is located in the basement. Along the way, at some point while my parents were still alive the pipes from the well to the house failed and were replaced with plastic. But nobody thought to do anything about adding a ground to replace what was now a broken connection. The grounding conductor from the fuse panel (which was later replaced with a more modern breaker panel) leads from the panel in the garage to the basement, where it's clamped to a length of 3/4" copper pipe that comes through the wall from outside, about 4 feet down from grade level. The problem is, that 3/4" copper pipe hasn't been connected to anything for about forty years. I finally figured all this out when I signed up for DirecTV about fifteen years ago. I knew where the dish was going to mount so I prewired the interior of the house to that location because I wanted to avoid having a bunch of wires running around the outside of my house. When the installers arrived, the first thing they wanted to do was run a ground wire from the dish location half way around the house to where the electrical service comes in. They said this was required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). I wasn't convinced, so I sent them away until I could do my homework. It turned out they were right, but they were wrong. When I got back to work (which, at the time, was in a town building inspection department), I talked to my boss. He knew the guy at the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) who writes the NEC Handbook, so he called him. And that guy didn't know the answer -- he had to research it and call us back. It took him a day or two. When he called back, he had a code section to point to. Satellite dishes do require grounding. BUT -- the ground wire isn't supposed to be more than 'X' feet long (I don't remember what 'X' is, but it's about a quarter of how far the satellite guys wanted to run their wire), and it's supposed to be straight, or nearly straight (they were going to make at least four right-angle bends). So I decided to do it right, since I knew the satellite guys weren't going to. I bought a new ground rod and drove it into the ground right below where the dish was going to go, and I ran a #6 wire from the ground rod up to the dish location. BUT -- and this is where I think your problem may lie -- the NEC allows for supplemental grounds such as what I installed, BUT it requires that any supplemental ground be "bonded" (connected) to the primary building ground (the NEC calls it the "primary grounding electrode system"). So I had to find where my electrical panel grounded, and connect to that. And that's when I discovered that the panel was grounded to a copper pipe that didn't go anywhere. So I started over from scratch. Back to Lowe's, bought two more ground rods and a long length of #6 wire. I drove the two new ground rods in the front of the house, near the well and near the electrical panel. Then I ran a new grounding #6 conductor from the panel to the first new ground rod, and then from that to the second new grounding rod. And then I ran another #6 wire from the supplemental ground rod in the back of the house through the basement and connected it to the new ground rods in the front. That's the "bonding" jumper. What that does is to ensure that everything is at the same electrical potential, which is what's necessary to prevent stray currents such as what you're encountering. This is why I'm interested in where those "new" add-on grounding wires go, because I suspect they aren't bonded to the building's primary grounding electrode system. And that is important. Side story -- when DirecTV came back, it was a different crew. These guys spoke English, and they actually seemed to know what they were doing. My call was mid-afternoon on a Friday, and when they showed up they were thinking they weren't going to get home (in the next state!) until very late. When they saw that the house was already wired, and the grounding conductor was right there waiting for them so all they had to do was mount and aim the dish and plug in the tuning boxes, they were ecstatic. They said it was the easiest installation they had ever done, and the only one they had ever seen that actually met the NEC.
  7. No need to try -- it won't work. The floor pans are different, especially for the rear mount locations. The seats would end up being set too high and at a very odd angle.
  8. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    The metal outlet boxes were grounded by an external wire that appears to have been added later. Where does that wire go?
  9. If you have the cluster out of the vehicle, you can run test leads from the sensors directly to the posts on the various gauges to test them. There are contacts in the one of the diagnostic port blocks for the tachometer. All the other gauges, I believe, have the same ohm range -- 0 to 88 ohms, -- so you could use a test lead setup from either the temp sender or the oil pressure sender to check them all. (Except volts -- but that's easy to test with a direct connection to the battery.)
  10. AMC used the T4 and T5 as "alternate standard" transmissions in the 1984 and 1985 Cherokee because they were able to source enough AX-4 and AX-5 transmissions. By 1986 I think the supply line issues had been worked out. I don't think I've ever heard of the T4 and T5 being used in 1986.
  11. Eagle

    Home Electrical issue

    It may have been installed in accordance with whatever the code was for that jurisdiction in 1967, but the problems he's finding pretty conclusively prove that someone, at some time, made some "improvements" that very clearly were not to code. A code-compliant electrical system won't have stray current leaking all over the place and electrifying the mortar in the kitchen backsplash.
  12. The late model XJ flasher is a combination unit that does both the turns and the hazards in one unit. And it's electronic, and it's about two or three times the price of the most expensive flasher you can find for the early XJs and MJs. I don't think it's sensitive to the number of lamps in the circuit -- my wife's 2000 XJ with trailer package and my 2000 XJ without trailer package take the same flasher unit. The 2000 XJ factory parts book only shows one part number for the flasher module, not a separate part number with trailer tow.
  13. Eagle

    Eastern Tennessee

    Now, now ... It's not nice to gloat.
  14. I'm talking about the plugs that go onto the headlights. They use the same headlights. That connector has been standard since the 1940s (or 30s).
  15. Why not use the donor Cherokee headlight harness? If you're swapping the rest of the Cherokee wiring, move the headlight harness, too. The headlight connectors are the same.
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