JZLAJeep

The switch assemblies are surprisingly cheap. As much as you hate it, just replace the assembly and be done.

Interested.

When we swapped from BA 10/5 to AX15 we tried fabricating a linkage, that didn't end up working too well so we purchased a new linkage which works great. A quick search came up with this. https://shorturl.at/79r2u

For those of us that need a little help with electrical diagrams

I just recently did this on our '97 XJ. A YouTube video recommended Switch Doctor brand replacement part and it's worked well so far. They are surprisingly inexpensive. To be honest, I don't know how much of the issue was the switch or the broken ground in the door hinge, but I went ahead and replaced the switch (and fixed the ground and the check strap). I was able to buy the drivers door switch separately in June, but on Amazon and the Switch Doctor website, I'm currently only seeing the 4 pack for all of the doors. https://shorturl.at/kJRDB Pretty cheap to buy all 4 though. And there are other brands that sell just the drivers door switch. One warning though, the Mrs. discovered last weekend that Simple Green cleaner takes the paint off of the switch... When researching this repair, I did find several people said it's the window lock button that goes out first on these switches and a few people bypassed the window lock and continued to use the same switch. This wasn't a viable option for me, so I replaced the switch, but it might be something to look into for you.

Love it! I'd love to get my hands on an LJ. More than a little jealous. Nice job!

Thanks for that feedback. That helps for what to try next.

That's essentially what I did. There were no hoses attached anywhere when flushed so didn't do the heater hose loop you mention though. Heater core and block were flushed separately, in both directions, more than one time.

Great story about how you got that MJ

That would be cool (no pun intended). Our '97 XJ has an overhead console with outside temperature, average fuel economy, etc. Makes it seem a little more modern and kinda fun, but certainly not critical.

I have been reading this thread hoping for more insight on this topic. Our coolant has run rusty every since we've had the MJ despite flushing. When I put in a new radiator and swapped to an open system earlier this year I thoroughly flushed the heater core and block to the extent I could. I had a sprayer on a garden hose and blowing straight into the block and straight into the heater core putting tens of gallons through each in both directions to ensure they ran clear. New radiator, new hoses, new coolant, and back to having rusty coolant... I conclude there must be some residual in the block or heater core that can't be blown out when the block is not running full of fluid. I've been hesitant to run commercially sold cleaners through fearing the chemicals are too harsh, but I guess that's what is left to try.

I just saw this post. These could be the same that Jeep used in the hatch of an XJ. The photo is one of the few that didn't break. @eaglescout526 and I had corresponded about this a couple years ago and here's what we found, and what I did. At that time we thought the original part number was 3420 with Chrysler/MOPAR equivalent of 6504995AA. Both are made of unobtanium at this point. If I did find them, they were prohibitively expensive. I ended up buying these and trimmed. https://shorturl.at/MeUpw The fastener part appeared to be close enough to the right size. The head/cap diameter was too big, but I put these in a drill and used sandpaper to grind them smaller. Then I used a small file to modify the 'neck' so that they were narrower in one axis. A pain in the rear, but $6 for 100 versus a lot more than that for one of the Mopar 6504995AA. With some modification I got them to work. I can't find any photos of the final product, sorry.

That looks really good! Nice work!