JZLAJeep

Nice switch plate! The other stuff was cool too... Did you punch a hole through the front bumper for a front hitch?

Dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway. Why is a heat barrier desirable? Is the barrier to keep engine heat from radiating up through the hood? Why is this desirable, other than so @AZJeff's hood doesn't get as hot? As a Phoenix native and expatriate I can commiserate with Jeff... Living in a northern state now, I kinda like the concept of snow melting off the hood faster... Our MJ does have the under hood insulation from the factory although it had some mouse damage on the passenger side prior to our obtaining the vehicle. But I've owned XJs with and without the hood liner and can't say there was any noticeable difference. Certainly not a big enough difference for me to want to spend $200+ on it

What does this say about MJ owners?

With the challenges I've run into while working on my CJ-7 in the past week I've discovered that AI, specifically Google Gemini, is a particularly helpful tool in pointing me in the right direction. The AI scours various forums and YouTube videos and synthesizes the information. After a few positive experiences I'm quickly finding myself going there first when I get stuck. What has been the experience of others?

Hmmm... I'll be in Vancouver in a few weeks for work. Wonder if I can take this on the plane.

Nice! Leaf springs still "smiled" and didn't "frown" like they tend to at this age?

I think they are, but I'm not touching those in my repairs. Those plugs looked OK.

The transmission type is irrelevant to the rear main seal replacement. The transmission gets pulled (usually) regardless of the type. We were lucky enough to find an AX-15 from a Cherokee in a junk yard. Keep an eye out there.

100%

25 mm (0.984") diameter plugs (Dorman Part #555-097) were the answer. I understand Dorman 555-125 (61/64" Dia.) plugs have been discontinued.

Got the 2" plugs in easy enough. I'm struggling with the 1" (allegedly) plugs however. The new plugs are slightly larger diameter than the old. If you look at the photo, the new plug peeks out from under the old plug. With the assistance of AI though, I've learned that Dorman sells 61/64" diameter plugs (Part #555-125) and 25 mm (0.984") diameter plugs (Part #555-097). Hopefully one of those works!

Nice! Keep tinkering. This seems like a really solid approach: "I love that I've never did anything completely permanent to it. Every modification I've done has always been made to be bolt in to leave the chassis side alone."

I found that nearly all the bolts snapped. Our fix was to grind them out, replace them with I think #10 bolts, and tack welded the bolts in.

I've seen some people recommend Permatex No. 1 and at least one other recommend gasket shellac. I don't know if it's just a preference for which to use. I suppose if they work, that's all that matters.

I did get the old plugs out. Apparently the smaller plugs are 1" diameter. I bought Dorman 555-018 1" steel expansion plugs that are sold individually. The diameter is slightly larger than the plugs that came out however. That has me a bit worried, but I suppose they'll go in with enough pounding. I was glad the 1" plug was steel because the first punched through into the cooling jacket and had to fish it out with a magnet. Couldn't have done that with a brass plug. @AZJeff I didn't see your removal suggestion until I already had the plugs out, but that's a good idea. Planning to delete the EGR while everything is apart. I've since cleaned up the ports since I took this photo. They are clean and shiny now. The old plugs. I punched through the rotten one that was leaking. That actually made it come out easier.