Jump to content

derf

Members
  • Content Count

    636
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About derf

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.grimmjeeper.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Castle Rock, CO
  • Interests
    Jeeps

Recent Profile Visitors

580 profile views
  1. Same as an XJ front axle. I ran one for a while and it was under an inch difference between the two.
  2. Other way around. The 44 uses a lot of 30 level stuff. The Rubicon 44 is a Dana 44 center section with the rest being Dana 30 spec parts. The Dana 30 center section is smaller than a 44. The JK version of both is bigger than the XJ version. But very thin wall. The JK 30 is stronger than an XJ 30 but it's still not a full Dana 44 strength by a long shot. There are ways to reinforce the weaknesses, but I wouldn't run anything bigger than a 35" tire with one.
  3. So the 80 is in a different location right now but preliminary measurements say a cab & chassis axle has springs perches right where the MJ springs land. So it will bolt up for a rear SOA with basically no modifications other than shock mounts. So I got that going for me, which is nice. I will probably play with the front axle position a little to maybe alter wheelbase and improve approach angle.
  4. What started the wrenching was someone looking for a 3.07 geared MJ axle. I figured I would end up scrapping it because it's a Dana 35 with 3.07s and an open diff. But he wanted a quick bolt in axle for cheap. So I pulled it and sold it to him.
  5. I've been sitting on this project for a while. I needed to have a house of my own before I got rolling and the parts accumulation is going to take a long time. But I started turning wrenches on it today so I'm going to start the build thread. This is the starting point: 1987 low option 4.0/5 speed 2wd that has been damaged in the rear a couple of times. The plan for it is simple. I'm going to make it into a trail beast that will do duty on some of the harder trails out there. Minimum 40" tires with lift and fender clearance to match.
  6. You can find a lot of helpful people (and others) at www.fsjnetwork.com and www.ifsja.org.
  7. According to this: https://oljeep.com/gw/vin_81-86.html 1 = USA J = Jeep Corporation T = Truck N = 360 V8 J = Automatic, column shift, part time transfer case 25 = Short Bed J10 - 119" wheelbase N = 5979#/6200# GVWR 1 = Check Digit D = 1983 T = Toledo manufacturing plant 003916 = Serial number.
  8. Not the whole frame but I've worked on cut and shortened frames. Best thing to do is to weld on temporary reinforcement bars on the parts you are going to keep. That keeps them aligned so they can go together easier and have a better chance to be straight. Once you've got the frame welded up, the bars get cut off. Get measurements before hand. Lots of them. Measure distances to fixed points like suspension mounting points. Measure the angles (top and side) on both sides of the cuts so you can get it back together straight. Measure diagonally to ensure you're squar
  9. Tail lights and license plate lights. All connectors intact. Let me know what zip code and I can get some shipping quotes. Or I can do a flat rate box for maybe $15 or so, I'd have to look ot work.
  10. I have one from a junkyard pull that I'm not going to use. I can probably toss it in a box and ship it to you for a reasonable price.
  11. How much weight are you planning on putting in it? It's sheet metal so it has its limits but it's a small space so I wouldn't expect you would have much that will fit back there. You could always build a box that rests on the floor and just attaches to the wall to keep from tipping when you fold the seat forward. Then you could put a bunch of weight in without worrying about it. Even if it just had some legs rather than fitting to the floor, it might be a better design.
  12. Get the thickest radiator you can fit. More surface area means more cooling. Get a regular (not high flow) water pump. More time in the radiator means better cooling. Get a good mechanical fan in the stock location. Mechanical fans move more air and more air means more cooling. Put the factory shroud around the mechanical fan. It improves air flow by a significant amount. More air means more cooling. Replace the factory electric fan with the highest CFM fan you can find that fits there and use a good shroud. More air.... you know the drill.
×
×
  • Create New...