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neohic

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About neohic

  • Rank
    MJ Maniac

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  • Website URL
    http://comancheclub.com/topic/14063-88-eliminator-feb-2009-may-2012/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
  • Interests
    Metal guru stuff

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  1. neohic

    1997 F-250 HD

    Looking good, Brent!
  2. neohic

    Made to Georgia

    ... yes!
  3. neohic

    Front Door Trim Panel for Eliminator Edition - MI

    I’ve got everything you need. PM sent. Edit: technical difficulties. You MIGHT have gotten a PM. Edit... edit: PM sent.
  4. neohic

    your day's dose of "clever or crazy?"

    Not gonna lie... I kinda dig this one.
  5. neohic

    Comanche Trailer Wanted

    PM replied.
  6. neohic

    Comanche Trailer Wanted

    At one point I was asking $3k for it. Got a ton of interest but nobody could pull the trigger.
  7. neohic

    Comanche Trailer Wanted

    Short bed?... no. Long bed?... yes... kinda. The topper came off of a Ford Ranger so it comes up a couple inches short on our trucks. I made up a filler panel for this gap.
  8. neohic

    Comanche Trailer Wanted

    This one has been “just sitting” for years. PM me... let’s talk.
  9. Only a couple more things to do before it’s close enough to being a part of the modern world.
  10. Something that I haven’t really done yet is to show some highlights of the interior of Pinky. I’ve got a bunch of stuff in here! It had a rear seat when I first got it but it didn’t match the fronts and it was pretty much useless and difficult to get to. I wanted some storage space. Keeping that storage means that everything else has its place. The spare is held in place with a simple bracket. Inside and behind the spare are jumper cables, coolant (not that it leaks or uses any), a gas can, blanket, and bikini top (come the day the awesome tin top ever comes off). The jack had a couple inches cut off the top so I could fit it where I wanted. The bottom is a spare ratchet strap because I like utilizing things instead of just storing when I can. The top is a clamp I made out of tube. The amo can keeps just about all the tools one needs to work on one of these things. Towards the front I ran out of room between the cage and windshield frame for a stock rear view mirror. Honestly I think they look funny when the windshield is folded down. Should I take the top off I wanted to still have the mirror. Same kind of clamp. No idea where the mirror came from. Then there’s the seats. These came out of a project at work and they’re cheap-o aftermarket replacements for first generation Ford Mustangs. They sit on a simple tube that spans the width of the body and have sliders under them... because seat sliders are needed in a CJ5. ... and that’s about it. I wish I would’ve documented it, but the steering column has been moved up to make more leg room. I wish the original toolbox was still under the passenger seat but that’s just another piece for the future body work that may or may not ever happen. Anyhow, here’s an obligatory front end picture to wrap up a post.
  11. The brake issue ended up being an adjuster that fell out of place. The line running to the rear was completely dry as well. This all meant that I was rolling on only one good brake. My plan was to hit the reset button pretty hard in the front and just freshen up the rears (which ended up being just fine once having fluid brought back to them). So here’s what I did then... a few months ago a coworker was parking/scrapping a 1976 Ford F-150 that had four wheel drive, disk brakes in the front, and drums in the rear. I grabbed the 11” booster, pedal linkage, master cylinder (that ended up being bad), and proportioning valve. Fitting the giant booster assembly actually went way smoother than I anticipated! I had to reroute the fuel lines, “percussively massage” part of my throttle linkage, flip the linkage bracket upside down, shorten the pedal side push rod, and slot a couple holes. Easy, right?!... maybe for the next guy. Here everything is in all its glory! Things are tight... real tight! A huge concern for me was what to do with the booster sharing space with the air cleaner. More on that later. Mounting the booster assembly worked out pretty simple. Like I said, the linkage behind the booster was flipped upside down. Everything was intended to lift the booster up and over the wheel well. I needed it low to give myself a chance at having an air cleaner and to be able to shut the hood. This was easy... unbolt, flip, rebolt. The two holes to get opened up are the two on the linkage bracket that almost line up with the bottom two bolts for the pedal bracket on the outside of the firewall. A keen eye will notice that I only used the top two holes in the new bracket. I couldn’t take myself to drill the rivets and move the VIN plate. Legal? Not wanting to drill more holes? I just think the factory did a stellar job of putting it there is all. Then some simple stuff under the dash... The factory brake light switch was retained. The factory Ford push rod was shortened about an inch and a new hole was drilled to line up with the post on the pedal. It practically mounted itself! Lastly, I made up a couple of jumpers from the new master cylinder to the original front and rear brake lines. What you don’t see here is where the factory lines go. Originally there was a proportioning valve set up for drum/drum. My next upgrades had me thinking about retaining a prop valve or to just go without. Again, more on that later. Another thing you can see is my quick/easy fix for my air cleaner problem. With lowering the booster all I needed to do was raise up the air cleaner 1.5”. These are parts store plastic spacers and I hate them. However, they are quick/easy after all. Then this stuff happened... ... these are admittedly cheap parts. The shop I work at sells a bolt on kit that uses GM style brackets and calipers. It’s designed to be easy to install and they are! As long as the back side of the hubs are machined flat and not just machined around the lug studs, this is a true bolt on deal. Remove the drum, hub, and backing plate. Then bolt the caliper bracket on in place of the backing plate, press out the studs in the hub, press in new longer studs to sandwich the rotor with the hub, and throw on the caliper. With all the new parts in place I started thinking about the proportioning valve. The original wasn’t an option and I felt the Ford unit wouldn’t be right either. With the better clamping force of the disk brakes up front I rattled the dice that the short wheelbase and the added weight of my hard top would even things out. The first rip down the road and a hard stomp of the pedal showed the fronts locking up before the rear. Press it harder and the rears followed. I think the balance is perfect! Next on my list is dealing with the caster (or lack of) in the front end. I’ve got almost 2* where 5-6* would be nice. A shim would be an easy solution but I haven’t looked all that close at the pinion angle to see where that’ll end up too. That’ll be for another day.
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