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About Smokeyyank

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    Can Spell Comanche

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    Littleton, Crawlarado

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  1. Smokeyyank

    Steering modification

    WJ conversion at least for the MJ when I get there will be about 1.5-2k. I'm going with the Stinkyfab kit and will source some of my own parts. There is modification to the sway bar mounts and track bar that need to be done. In no way is it just a bolt up kit. I know some people will just swap knuckles but it's not taking full advantage of the set up. There complete kit is almost $1900, but that is EVERYTHING and new http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/ Basic kit is less, but you need to source your own parts http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-basic-wj-high-steer-big-brake-kit-xj/ Obviously I know there are ways to do it cheaper, but I think they have the most complete kit and make awesome parts.
  2. Smokeyyank

    Steering modification

    Did more digging because I want to know. Basically the only option is a WJ swap but it takes some creativity to get everything matched up. Big fan of the WJ swap but $$$
  3. Hobofrieght all the way! Other than my dad sliding down hill in ice and knocking the XJ off the stands they held up just fine. I also got the big mamba jambas
  4. Smokeyyank

    Steering modification

    Only issue with the WJ swap is leafs........I don't think the drag link will properly clear the leafs for SOA.
  5. Don't go RC, much better lifts for the money. Zone makes a decent lift. IRO has always made decent stuff. OME is a great lift but more expensive. Really, there are lots of options and will just depend on what you want to do. If you want height and ride comfort OME is the best route. If you're planning to wheel it hard then it's going to be best to build your lift and possibly consider long arms. Personally, I'd start accumulating parts and do it right once then ten times half assed. The 4wd conversion is a good amount of work and to put parts on now you'll just be pulling them off later. You're going to need new axles and not D35s, things are only good for boat anchors. Best bet will be to source 97-99 XJ axles. You'll get a HP30 front with bigger u joints, non cad and high pinon, rear will be a 8.25 with 29 spline. More than enough axle to run 33's. If you plan on going 35's you should consider something else. While you can get away with a D30 and 8.25, might as well build a proper axle and not worry about breakage with 35's. If you're looking for just a budget lift temporarily here's what I'd do Front -ZJ upcountry coils net about 1-1.5" lift -Coil spacer get about .75" -Could also consider ACOS, I just put them on the level out my front but the great thing is they can be used to fine tune your set up once you have a proper lift. Rear -AAL That should get you enough to run a 30ish tire even though I say stick with a 29" max. Then you're also going to look at all the other parts to go with bigger tires; steering, braking, etc.
  6. Smokeyyank

    Hard time going above 55

    Its a 4 banger...so yeah not going to be a torque monster. Did the issue just start? What about time size or anything else that might be an issue.
  7. Smokeyyank

    Steering modification

    There is this kit, but personally I think RR makes junk http://www.rocky-road.com/yj-high-steer.html Also this kit https://www.mountainoffroad.com/steering-correction-kit-87-95-yj.html You can also look at reid knuckles but for the cost axle swap might be the best option.
  8. Smokeyyank

    4.5 lift coils

    Basically everything. Then depending on the rear you might have to consider a SYE or tcase drop. With more lift comes more $. If you are worried about the front sagging with weight and are compensating with taller coils you can get ACOS to dial it in. I used it on mine to level out the front Before After
  9. Smokeyyank

    Differences between 91/92 HO vs 93+ HO

    The advantage of going with a 96+ is OBDII. Prior to that you had OBDI, nothing else. It's a debate on whether OBDI is an upgrade over Renix. Personally, I think it is not, but that's just me. If I was to do the swap to a HO I'd find a 99. Last year of distributor and has the better intake manifold.
  10. Smokeyyank

    Dana 44 front axle upgrade

    I'd just get axles from a 97-99 XJ. D44 isn't straight forward at all. Need a lot of stuff to do it right. At least with the XJ axle you'll get bigger u joints, CAD delete and will be a HP.
  11. Smokeyyank

    Shackle slider boxes(shackle eliminators)

    Thought it was Jeepspeed. At least the ones Liquid Iron makes.
  12. Smokeyyank

    Shackle slider boxes(shackle eliminators)

    Check on NAXJA, a few guys run them. Not a ton of info for them but I like the idea. So far from what I've heard the biggest downside is losing some departure angle and they can get hung up on rocks vs regular shackles. But the flex and overall streetability is a major improvement.
  13. Smokeyyank

    Should I buy it?

    If you can pick it up cheap and there's not a lot of rust could be a good find. As for the driveline I'd scrap it and put something in that's worth a crap. It will be an undertaking for sure, but Gladiators are frickin awesome.
  14. Smokeyyank

    J10 Truck info

    If rust is limited for $1,000 that's a pretty good deal. If you want turn it into a tow rig I'd look at swapping out the driveline. The 360 is decent, have one in a CJ, good torque but it's still carbed and at elevation it's a pain. It probably has a T89 or t18 so either 3 or 4 speed manny. The 4 is just a granny gear for 1st. I'd drop in a 350 with TBI vs going with after market EFI's. TBI is tried and true and can be picked up cheaper than the EFI's systems. In any case you can still keep the 360 and swap on a TBI. Just need a manifold adapter plate.
  15. Smokeyyank

    what did you do to your MJ today?

    Thanks, big change from when Yella had it...