MagicJames

I don't sorry, I'm just hoarder

Gotta be 1990, peak Renix era. XJ black and gold Limited - take to work MJ Eliminator Shortbed - for weekends YJ Islander - just for the beach XJ Wagoneer - for the wife Mercedes 560 SEC Euro - just because

Sorry for the late reply. When you test the terminals at the speakers, the difference across them when sound is playing will be zero. When music is playing, the two speaker wires move in opposite directions, so as the feed rises, the return falls. To test the speaker, put the negative probe on the radio ground itself and you should get 4/5V at each speaker from the positive probe. As for the amplifier chip, i can't seem to find my diagram, but i went and tested a good radio I had for you to compare with. Below are the results at each pin. The circuit board itself is labelled for pin 1 and pin 17 so you know what direction to go in.

You said your speakers are new and that it's all wired correctly. So if you have completely no sound, not even static, then its pointing towards the power amplifier. But you said you got the radio back from Jeremy so it should be good. I put a photo of the amplifer below circled in green, its behind the heatsink cover at the back. So if you want you can test it with a multimeter But first, I hate to go condemning the amplifier straight away, so check with one individual speaker buy placing a AA battery between negative and positive ends, it should crackle loudly when you connect it to a power source. Then make sure volume is all the way up, even try a casstette if you can. If it's still dead silence, then pull the heatsink at the back and test the amplifier chip, its a few small screws but they're different lengths so make sure you remember where each goes. If the chip doesn't look burnt, then put a multimeter negative probe on the ground and the positive probe on the output pin. Our radios take a 17 pin motorolla chip, we don't want this to show the full 12V, it should be about half so around 6V is good. I tried to take a picture for you but its hard holding the probes and the phone at the same time. If you get 12V at the chip speaker pins then the chip is closed and shorting the full battery power straight to your speakers. 0V means the chip is blown open. In both cases the chip is bad. I don't have the exact pin lay out for the chip on hand, its in my notes and i can get it for you. But I know pins 9 and 14 should be 12v main power and speaker pins should be about half that at 6v. I think pins 11/12 and 15/16 are the 4 speaker pins but i could be wrong. i hope this helps

Pull the nob off the volume button and crank it to max. Do you hear any hiss at all or complete blank? Do you have the corrct +/- pairings, so two greens or two purples for example example?

Looking clean my guy

I always thought the second connector was for ABS diagnostics

Congrats, looking cleaner than most already. Let's get some more pics

Lovely stuff

it not mine, but I just saw it scrolling on youtube reels. I think this is the link, he's also got a full video on the jeep. Have a look and let me know. Your judegment would be better than mine

It was parked for a couple decades, I think it's factory

An image I found I thought was cool

Uffya, trying to build a chief right now. Man, the parts I could use on that thing https://bid.cars/en/lot/1-55775326/1986-Jeep-Comanche-1JTWL6512GT183768#

You have an automatic radio, pretty similar to the RX170, but people say they're less reliable. To be fair, once you get inside them, they're very similar and the problems like what you're saying with the cassette being spit out happen to all of them, whether it's a 170 or an automatic. The bulbs you replaced are for the back light that comes on when you turn on your headlights in the truck. The other light is the screen light, which is similar to a plasma screen. In my experience, the plasma screen on the automatics is always notably weaker than that on the 170/171s. Both lights have their own wire in the harness, usually orange and then orange with white tracer on the newer connectors, but one needs 12V only when you turn on the highlights. The other should have 12V when you turn the ignition. In my experience, when the plasma screen light goes out you options are to replace the screen, which is a bit finicky. So make sure you're sending 12V to the correct wire just to be sure first. I think the manual calls one a dimmer and one an LCD. As for the cassette getting stuck on the eject, it could be logic or mechanical. Basically, anytime the radio doesn't like something about the cassette, it ejects it. Mechanically, this could be the motor not engaging or a belt issue. Logic issues are more unfortunate, but it could be that the radio is not passing the first logic step, where it has to sense the cassette. FYI, all cassette decks are removable inside the radios, but they did sometimes differ from year to year, so you have to get exactly the right one; the plugs and brackets for them both differed. I'm trying to build a portfolio of all the variations to post on here. Tell me, with the lid off, when you insert the cassette, does the deck seat the cassette? Does it pull it and drop it down? I think people don't like the automatics because they're a bit ugly. Like, even when you play a cassette, you just get a blank screen with a direction line, no clock. I have one in my 90 limited, and it looks like this. FYI, all buttons can be individually swapped out, so if you're not happy with your power button looking like that, you can sawp if if you find a junk radio. Hope this helps

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1539222117615919/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aad4dcad3-59d4-43e3-989d-4f369ea0d7d7 Just spotted this on the marketplace. Did anyone here buy it? Lowest price I've seen in a while