MagicJames

Lets see some pics my friend, gotta love a Chief. The poor milage is probably just a bunch of little things inmy option. The lift won't help, running a bit cold doesn't help, the throttle body and the whole system could need going through. The turn signal issue is a bad bulb or bad ground. The sockets for the bulbs also get pretty corroded and do that too.

I don't sorry, I'm just hoarder

Gotta be 1990, peak Renix era. XJ black and gold Limited - take to work MJ Eliminator Shortbed - for weekends YJ Islander - just for the beach XJ Wagoneer - for the wife Mercedes 560 SEC Euro - just because

Sorry for the late reply. When you test the terminals at the speakers, the difference across them when sound is playing will be zero. When music is playing, the two speaker wires move in opposite directions, so as the feed rises, the return falls. To test the speaker, put the negative probe on the radio ground itself and you should get 4/5V at each speaker from the positive probe. As for the amplifier chip, i can't seem to find my diagram, but i went and tested a good radio I had for you to compare with. Below are the results at each pin. The circuit board itself is labelled for pin 1 and pin 17 so you know what direction to go in.

You said your speakers are new and that it's all wired correctly. So if you have completely no sound, not even static, then its pointing towards the power amplifier. But you said you got the radio back from Jeremy so it should be good. I put a photo of the amplifer below circled in green, its behind the heatsink cover at the back. So if you want you can test it with a multimeter But first, I hate to go condemning the amplifier straight away, so check with one individual speaker buy placing a AA battery between negative and positive ends, it should crackle loudly when you connect it to a power source. Then make sure volume is all the way up, even try a casstette if you can. If it's still dead silence, then pull the heatsink at the back and test the amplifier chip, its a few small screws but they're different lengths so make sure you remember where each goes. If the chip doesn't look burnt, then put a multimeter negative probe on the ground and the positive probe on the output pin. Our radios take a 17 pin motorolla chip, we don't want this to show the full 12V, it should be about half so around 6V is good. I tried to take a picture for you but its hard holding the probes and the phone at the same time. If you get 12V at the chip speaker pins then the chip is closed and shorting the full battery power straight to your speakers. 0V means the chip is blown open. In both cases the chip is bad. I don't have the exact pin lay out for the chip on hand, its in my notes and i can get it for you. But I know pins 9 and 14 should be 12v main power and speaker pins should be about half that at 6v. I think pins 11/12 and 15/16 are the 4 speaker pins but i could be wrong. i hope this helps

Pull the nob off the volume button and crank it to max. Do you hear any hiss at all or complete blank? Do you have the corrct +/- pairings, so two greens or two purples for example example?

Looking clean my guy

I always thought the second connector was for ABS diagnostics

Congrats, looking cleaner than most already. Let's get some more pics

Lovely stuff

it not mine, but I just saw it scrolling on youtube reels. I think this is the link, he's also got a full video on the jeep. Have a look and let me know. Your judegment would be better than mine

It was parked for a couple decades, I think it's factory

An image I found I thought was cool

Uffya, trying to build a chief right now. Man, the parts I could use on that thing https://bid.cars/en/lot/1-55775326/1986-Jeep-Comanche-1JTWL6512GT183768#

You have an automatic radio, pretty similar to the RX170, but people say they're less reliable. To be fair, once you get inside them, they're very similar and the problems like what you're saying with the cassette being spit out happen to all of them, whether it's a 170 or an automatic. The bulbs you replaced are for the back light that comes on when you turn on your headlights in the truck. The other light is the screen light, which is similar to a plasma screen. In my experience, the plasma screen on the automatics is always notably weaker than that on the 170/171s. Both lights have their own wire in the harness, usually orange and then orange with white tracer on the newer connectors, but one needs 12V only when you turn on the highlights. The other should have 12V when you turn the ignition. In my experience, when the plasma screen light goes out you options are to replace the screen, which is a bit finicky. So make sure you're sending 12V to the correct wire just to be sure first. I think the manual calls one a dimmer and one an LCD. As for the cassette getting stuck on the eject, it could be logic or mechanical. Basically, anytime the radio doesn't like something about the cassette, it ejects it. Mechanically, this could be the motor not engaging or a belt issue. Logic issues are more unfortunate, but it could be that the radio is not passing the first logic step, where it has to sense the cassette. FYI, all cassette decks are removable inside the radios, but they did sometimes differ from year to year, so you have to get exactly the right one; the plugs and brackets for them both differed. I'm trying to build a portfolio of all the variations to post on here. Tell me, with the lid off, when you insert the cassette, does the deck seat the cassette? Does it pull it and drop it down? I think people don't like the automatics because they're a bit ugly. Like, even when you play a cassette, you just get a blank screen with a direction line, no clock. I have one in my 90 limited, and it looks like this. FYI, all buttons can be individually swapped out, so if you're not happy with your power button looking like that, you can sawp if if you find a junk radio. Hope this helps

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1539222117615919/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aad4dcad3-59d4-43e3-989d-4f369ea0d7d7 Just spotted this on the marketplace. Did anyone here buy it? Lowest price I've seen in a while

Got a 4-cylinder chief that needed one, and I'm honestly not willing to spend twice the price of the truck to buy the sport bar. Took about a couple of weeks to do this one, just messing with it after work. I'm not the best fabricator, and this would probably be my first and last time doing it. If you're thinking about doing it, I'd say give it a go, it's really easier than you think. The hardest part is the bends coming down next to the bed. You gotta do them in very small sections to get the bends right, and even then, they still look slightly off, but I'm sure a more experienced welder with a proper mould would do them right. I just eyeballed everything from photos. So yeah, I think the prices some people ask for the originals are crazy, and we shouldn't be entertaining those prices. If you're thinking about it, give it a go; you can even hide the welds like I did for a smoother finish.

Would you mind telling me the exact issue here with that diaphragm? I'm doing the same rebuild with the standard kit, and don't want to make the same mistake

A 92' 4.0 5-speed with 4x4. Looks pretty complete too, has the original bumper. I've never actually seen a bench seat that basic. https://bidmotors.bg/en/jeep-comanche-1992-1j7fj26sxnl136862

On my 2.5, I replaced the pump and the wiring from a YJ. Everything was plugged exactly the same. But would anyone know if you can buy the orange box I'm pointing at that indicates the fuel level separately? The tiny wires inside are snapped. If anyone knows a replacement, please let me know. Ty

Anything you knowledgeable gentlemen can tell me about this Comanche? Anything special, or is it just a basic 4 cylinder? If anyone knows the dealer, that would be great. I tried to get the photos uploaded as HD as possible. Vin 1JTHW64SOHT114671. Zone 97. Delaer 8032.

Hi, congrats on all the progress, it's looking really nice. Can I ask you about the overhead console. I have 1990, and the compass works fine, but I keep getting OC for the temp reading. I'm guessing it means open circuit. I've tried a second temp sensor from a junk yard, but no change. Did you ever get an OC reading initially before you swapped the sensor? And would you mind putting the link to the one you bought. Cheers

Off topic, but these were a $171 accessory option back in the day. A small price for looking cool 😎

Nothing in the fuel rail vacuum line when cold IAC is at 128 and will drop sequentially as it gets up to temp. When hot at high idle (1200-1300) IAC is fully extended and will read zero. MAP when cold is starts at 12.8 then will drop to 10.5 when hot. I think my ECU is good, its a lowish mile truck and its trying to close that IAC to bring the idle down. It has to be a vacuum leak right? Do you think I should run smoke through it again? I know a guy that has one with the UV tracer thing. If so which ports do I use? last time i used the brake booster line

At high idle it stays in closed loop and STFT will swing between 55-70. LTFT stays a 128. So the ECU is dropping the trim a bit and it's running rich. But I have no vacuum leaks, even from the manifold. Could it be the coolent temp sensor? the connector gets about 5V when cold. Ive tried two so far but havent read the reading when hot, it should drop right? Also this is the sensor in the block, on the drivers side, in case I'm messing with the wrong one.