coheed

Realized I don't have a fitting to go from the braided clutch line to the quick-connect on the slave cylinder as well. Ordered one from Advance Adapter. Starting a new job on the 1st and would really would like to get this driving again before that. If rain holds off enough tomorrow I'll swap pedal assemblies and drill holes for the master cylinder, then wait for parts.

If there's an issue with VATS you would have an error show up in the DTC tab that's titled something to do with Passkey. If no DTC, then your VATS bypass is working fine. But, if there is a VATS issue it will also throw an injector fault on that main screen.

4L60e is out of the truck. Have installed the new flywheel on the engine and have the AX15 reassembled in the bed. Unfortunately the clutch I ordered won't work. The snout for the input shaft splines is too pronounced and hits the crank before the friction surface is touching the flywheel. Instead of getting a shop to cut that down I ordered a Centerforce clutch that in the pictures has a much smaller snout. It should have better friction material than the first one I ordered anyway so why not.

The only thing I want in a truck that a Comanche doesn't have is an extra cab with more room behind the seats to be able to store things. Aside from that I don't see a point in my life that I wouldn't own a Comanche. If I need to tow something that the MJ can't handle, rental trucks are pretty cheap these days or whatever it is is bigger than I need to be moving if I'm not getting paid. The metric ton springs give you a payload higher than every single "entry level" truck these days. And a longbed is bigger than 3/4 of the trucks made in the last 10 years (for the US at least). Seems like the perfect truck for me.

Even more confused. Ordered a brand new Luk clutch kit for a 91 2.8 S10, and the dowel holes don't line up with the brand new Luk flywheel. Looking at pics of other pressure plates and flywheels available it seems like they'd all have these problems. The new one however, the bolt holes are offset from each other enough that when the bolts are in the pressure plate can't shift around. I'm gonna run this first and if I have issues I'll get holes added to the flywheel and use the other pressure plate.

Depending on the program they use to write the new VIN in the PCM, it may just be changing what a scanner would show as the VIN when hooked up and nothing else. The auto has a park/neutral safety switch and the manual has a clutch safety that are both tied to the VATS starter relay. Depending on how you bypassed that relay you may have already bypassed those. In theory an auto PCM would still start an engine with no 4l60 hooked up to it, so long as the safety switch is bypassed and it's getting the right signal for the VATS (and fuel/spark/timing are good). Most people seem to have great luck with the VATS bypass modules, so maybe it was a fluke of my wiring in the truck. It ran with the module in the Camaro, it was just terribly inconsistent when everything was in the truck. Do you still have the VATS module attached to the wiring? And do you still have the ignition cylinder from the Camaro in the wiring harness? If you have both you could try wiring in resistors of the same value as the pellet in the Camaro key if you know that value. Also, have you tried some starting fluid? If it runs on ether I'd bet money it's a VATS issue.

Make sure whatever you're using to bypass the VATS is sending the correct signal and that the PCM is seeing it. If you don't have scan9495 on a computer and an ALDL cable, I would get one. Scan9495 will show if the PCM is throwing a code for the VATS, and it's easier to use than most modern code scanners in my opinion. I had 2 different bypass modules hooked up to mine, and for whatever reason the PCM wouldn't recognize the 55Hz signal that was coming out of the bypass modules. And without that the injectors won't fire. Noid lights would also tell you pretty quick if its VATS not pulsing the injectors. Eventually I spent the money on Tunercats and disabled VATS completely in the PCM, along with editing some other things.

No, there's spots on the flywheel to install the pins but if the holes on the pressure plate are lined up with the threaded holes on the flywheel there's no hole in the pressure plate for the pins to go into. And if I line up any one of the holes on the pressure plate with a locating pin location on the flywheel none of the pressure plate holes line up with the threaded holes in the flywheel.

The flywheel wouldn't be the problem. There's not a good spot on the pressure plate for the pins to go into. They'd either be coming up where the springs around the outside of the plate are, or in the raised spots between the "feet" on it. I don't know if it would be cheaper to get a shop to make this pressure plate work with pins, or buy a $100-150 clutch pack.

Maybe I need to just bite the bullet and buy a clutch kit with a pressure plate that has the locating holes and just chuck the clutch it comes with. A little confused on why they would have pressure plates that don't have the holes and some that do if it's important for alignment and balance.

Finally tucking into the AX15 swap for my 3.4 and noticed that the pressure plate I have doesn't have holes for the locating dowel/pins. Looking at other clutch kits that would fit on rockauto some other pressure plates seem like they have holes that would be in the right location, but I don't want to buy a full clutch kit when I'm only going to be using the pressure plate. The pressure plate I have is the only one listed on RA for both the Comanche and the 91 2.8 S10 I'm cobbling parts together for this swap, and looking other places pressure plates by themselves aren't common for this application. All that to say, would the clutch be fine with just the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate in place? I wouldn't think the torque of the 3.4 would be enough to make the pressure plate twist in place, but I don't know.

Totally understand that lol. I feel like I cleaned out my frame rails multiple times because I didn't think about that ahead of time.

Just a heads up, I would also get the rest of the seam sealer off of your firewall to check underneath. Almost all of the seam sealer on my truck was hiding rust and rot. Might be easier to do it now that you're already doing the floors. And if there's no rust you have the peace of mind

I'd venture a guess that this drive line is cleaner than most sitting in MJs across the country lol. When I get the AX15 in my truck I definitely need to make my way down to check this thing out. Absolutely loving this build.

Yeah, you have to remove the dash to get that out. I would at least try to lift it up as much as you possibly can and visually inspect under it. There's been quite a few trucks on here recently that have had rust under it and under the seam sealer under it going up to the wiper cowl, including my own.