coheed

Quite an interesting Kia Sorento listed on FB not too far from me; "If it's listed it's still available here you have the craziest Kia Sorento you'll ever see One of a kind in the making just don't have the time to keep going hope somebody likes it as much as I do Price is firm with all the add-ons that go with it $2600.00 considered trade that price comes with another set of rims and tires and also another set of used tires and new Jeep Wrangler fender flares brand new in a box l want to say 2021 if it's listed it's still available please don't ask"

This crossed my mind this morning. You could get that 4l60e from the Camaro and put a manual electronic shifter on it,like this one from Rad Designs. Wouldn't need a computer and he wouldn't have to deal with a clutch while shifting. Would be much cheaper than a standalone controller, but he'd have to shift.

2.8 S10's before 93, 2.8 S10 Blazers before 89, and 2.8/3.1 Camaro/Firebirds 82-92 would all have 60 degree V6 700R4s. Just make sure to get an externally balanced flexplate if you get one from an earlier 2.8. There's also a very illusive 4l60 not E from early 93 Camaro/Firebird 3.4s. It's essentially a 700R4 they called a 4l60

If that's the case, I'd personally wait for a 700R4 or get a T5 from an S10, or just drop a 3.4/4l60E combo in. My whole swap was only about $1000 but that includes a $600 Novak adapter.

I haven't seen anyone run a 4l60E behind a carbed engine. You could potentially ask in the 60-degree V6 group on FB, there's some fairly knowledgeable people there. I would assume you need a standalone controller if you can't get a TPS adapted to the carb. Is there a reason you don't want to go to 3.4 fuel injection? I have a whole thread about running the 3.4 4l60E combo in an MJ and it's a fairly simple albeit tedious process and you can use the factory harness. Another thing to consider is if you're going to put this in a 4wd truck you'll need to pull the 4l60E from a Camaro apart and swap the tail housing and output shaft from either a 4wd 4l60E/700R4 or get an adapter kit from Novak. That said, the 4l60E in my truck currently is getting swapped for an AX15 soon, and it already has the Novak adapter kit installed. We're not far from each other and I'd let it go for basically the price of the adapter once it's out of the truck.

Sweet. Sending you a PM.

There're a few junkyards on car-part.com that have a bellhousing available. But I figured I'd post here just to see if anyone has a Dakota 2.5 AX15 bellhousing stashed away somewhere. Found. Thank you @JolietJEEP'84

The Dakota 2.5 AX15 uses the same 60 degree V6 bellhousing pattern as the 2.5 and 2.8/3.1/3.4. So, Dakota bellhousing, 2.8 externally balanced flywheel and pressure plate, and a clutch disc from an 82 Camaro with a 2.8. With Dakota parts to release the clutch. Not super well documented, but there is a tiny bit of info out there about it.

Well, with the 3-4 pack slipping in the 4L60e and it needing a rebuild I had to weigh my options. The cost to build it properly for my hopeful TDI swap in the future is pretty steep, especially when you include a standalone controller if that swap happens. So, when this '90 AX15 and NP231 popped up for dang cheap an hour away I decided to jump on it. Guess I'm gonna need to gather parts to swap the truck back to a manual . Also, swung by a pull a part local to the guy and managed to score a 2nd shifter, manual pedal assembly, and a spare intermittent wiper box from a 92 2wd XJ for $50.

I also have some JKS ones on my truck and have had no issues with them. Just make sure to grease them often, mine seem to push out the grease more than I would expect.

Yeah, there's a few guys running the SBC pattern 4l60s behind TDI's and they make an adapter for the 60 degree bellhousings as well. Does the list I posted above seem like it's missing anything? I assume I'll also need to look for wear on some other parts and check solenoids and things as I would be going through it as well.

No, I mean a VW TDI. A BHW can make 300lb/ft off just a tune, and even the older ALH can make right under that with upgrades.

Yes, it's running on the original PCM with no changes made to how it manages the transmission. I've been using scan9495 and Tunercat using the ALDL port and both programs have been great and easy to use so far. The truck isn't the vehicle I use the most, and I've only been driving around in 2nd since I've found the slipping issue in an attempt to keep it from getting worse or overheating. With the hopes of swapping a TDI in the future with up to 300lb/ft torque, would it be smart to upgrade the planetaries? There seems to be heavy debate over 4 vs 5 and whether it's worth it or not. As far as the apply servo you mentioned, is that the 2-4 servo? I was looking at this build your own kit 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E Custom Transmission Loaded Master Rebuild Kit with these options: Gasket & Seal Overhaul Kit (1993-E1997) 700R4 4L60E Molded Rubber Piston Upgrade Kit (1982-E1997) Friction Module w/ Z-Pak Upgrade (1987-Up) Raybestos High Performance Kolene Steel Module (1987-UP) High-Energy ProSeries 2-4 Band by Raybestos (1982-UP) Master Bushing Kit (1985-UP) Torrington Bearing Kit (1982-2006) w/o 2001-UP Reaction to Sun Shell Bearing SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax Valve Body Separator Plate by Transgo (1993-1994) HD Forward Sprag (29-Element) Borg-Warner (1987-UP) Low Reverse Roller Clutch Sprag (1987-Up) Borg Warner Performance Corvette 2-4 Servo Assembly (1982-UP) Ready-to-Install 4L60E Pump Hard Parts Kit 10-Vane 1-2 Accumulator Piston (1982-UP) Aluminum Small Pin Style Transmission Reprogramming Kit (1993-UP) TransGo #4L60E-HD2 Servo Release Check Valve Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax

I only did the floor pans and frame caps on my truck, but I would think if you're spot/plug welding everything I wouldn't worry about residual stress in the frame. Unless you're using an industrial spot welder you're gonna be going a lot slower than the factory when welding. Meaning heat soak is gonna be a lot less of a factor. I would worry more about warping the rocker panels and cab corners with heat since they're sheet metal. As long as you work slow (but weld quickly) and let things cool properly I wouldn't worry about it too much.

My first car came out 18 years before I was even born, so idk about that lol