coheed

I also have some JKS ones on my truck and have had no issues with them. Just make sure to grease them often, mine seem to push out the grease more than I would expect.

Interested in the speedo cable.

Yeah, there's a few guys running the SBC pattern 4l60s behind TDI's and they make an adapter for the 60 degree bellhousings as well. Does the list I posted above seem like it's missing anything? I assume I'll also need to look for wear on some other parts and check solenoids and things as I would be going through it as well.

No, I mean a VW TDI. A BHW can make 300lb/ft off just a tune, and even the older ALH can make right under that with upgrades.

Yes, it's running on the original PCM with no changes made to how it manages the transmission. I've been using scan9495 and Tunercat using the ALDL port and both programs have been great and easy to use so far. The truck isn't the vehicle I use the most, and I've only been driving around in 2nd since I've found the slipping issue in an attempt to keep it from getting worse or overheating. With the hopes of swapping a TDI in the future with up to 300lb/ft torque, would it be smart to upgrade the planetaries? There seems to be heavy debate over 4 vs 5 and whether it's worth it or not. As far as the apply servo you mentioned, is that the 2-4 servo? I was looking at this build your own kit 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E Custom Transmission Loaded Master Rebuild Kit with these options: Gasket & Seal Overhaul Kit (1993-E1997) 700R4 4L60E Molded Rubber Piston Upgrade Kit (1982-E1997) Friction Module w/ Z-Pak Upgrade (1987-Up) Raybestos High Performance Kolene Steel Module (1987-UP) High-Energy ProSeries 2-4 Band by Raybestos (1982-UP) Master Bushing Kit (1985-UP) Torrington Bearing Kit (1982-2006) w/o 2001-UP Reaction to Sun Shell Bearing SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax Valve Body Separator Plate by Transgo (1993-1994) HD Forward Sprag (29-Element) Borg-Warner (1987-UP) Low Reverse Roller Clutch Sprag (1987-Up) Borg Warner Performance Corvette 2-4 Servo Assembly (1982-UP) Ready-to-Install 4L60E Pump Hard Parts Kit 10-Vane 1-2 Accumulator Piston (1982-UP) Aluminum Small Pin Style Transmission Reprogramming Kit (1993-UP) TransGo #4L60E-HD2 Servo Release Check Valve Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax

I only did the floor pans and frame caps on my truck, but I would think if you're spot/plug welding everything I wouldn't worry about residual stress in the frame. Unless you're using an industrial spot welder you're gonna be going a lot slower than the factory when welding. Meaning heat soak is gonna be a lot less of a factor. I would worry more about warping the rocker panels and cab corners with heat since they're sheet metal. As long as you work slow (but weld quickly) and let things cool properly I wouldn't worry about it too much.

My first car came out 18 years before I was even born, so idk about that lol

Rebuilding it is probably what I'll settle on. There's a lot of love and hate for the 4L60, but it seems like if it's built well and not abused or too much torque put through it it'll do fine. There's no way I'd spend the time and money to rebuild and not upgrade the common failure parts. Unfortunately, taking it to a shop isn't in the budget. To get it built with the parts I'd want, parts alone would be $1000-1200 doing some minimal pricing over the last day. Then add on $150-200/hr labor rates, it'll get real pricey real quick.

I know the 4L60e isn't a commonly used or talked about transmission on this site, but I figured with the wealth of knowledge here and how common they are someone will be able to chime in. So, the 4L60e I've swapped into my MJ from a 94 Camaro is slipping in 3rd and 4th. I know the common issue is the 3-4 clutch pack burning up, and there's no dearth of information about diagnosing and rebuilding this transmission. Unfortunately, this is an odd use case, as it's a 60 degree bellhousing and I've swapped the output shaft and tail housing so I can run a NP242 on the back of it. So, picking up a known good unit is very slim pickins. One alternative would be to find an AX15 or NV3550 and swap the truck back to a manual. I kept the 4L60e with the motor as the AX5 in the truck could have been original, with over 350k miles on it, and some point down the road I'd like to TDI swap the truck. The 4L60e seemed like a decent option as they hold power well if built right, and standalone controllers are easy to get whenever I went that route. Swapping back to manual would also mean getting another clutch pedal assembly, master and slave cylinders, lines, flywheel and clutch, a Dakota bellhousing, and potentially driveshafts (both the AX and NV would be a half inch longer than the 4L60). The other, I suppose more straight forward solution, would be to pull and diagnose the 4L60e and replace what's needed/ rebuild. That's where I'm hesitant. I've never done any work on an automatic aside from pulling this one apart to swap out the output shaft and tail housing. When I bought the Camaro from @dasbulliwagen it had about 140k on it, and the person he got it off of said the trans had about 30k on a rebuild (which may or may not be true, I don't really know how to tell because like I said I have no experience with autos). With no way to know how many miles are actually on the 4L60e, would it just be smarter to rebuild the unit fully instead of pulling and replacing some parts? By my math it seems like rebuilding the 4L60 and swapping to an AX/NV would be about the same cost if I bought all the parts myself and upgraded the common failure points. How long is a rebuilt 4L60e going to last as long as I make sure to maintain it properly? Also, does anyone have any good and trusted resources, hard copy books or online, for rebuilding and diagnosing the 4L60e?

I don't know why it wouldn't. Unless it's been replaced with something real odd it should just be the normal style that has an anchor glued to the glass.

I called a few different shops last year and most of the chains didn't want to touch the truck because of the age. I eventually found a local shop and asked them to order one for a 2000 XJ and get a new rubber gasket to replace the plastic tabs and chrome trim. They installed it with no issues and even treated some rust in the window frame. The windshields are the same for all years, only the trim is different. The rubber trim you don't have to worry about flying off down the road or finding new plastic clips when they break.

I can't find any pictures of my actual car, but mine was a 73 Super Beetle in Marina Blue. Had the stock 1600 and a autostick three speed. It was a huge pile, but I still miss it. The wiring under the rear seat caught fire multiple times, and I had to take the heat exchangers out because they would dump exhaust into the cabin. Had an unbaffled EMPI stinger exhaust, so it was louder than Harleys I would pull up to at stop lights, and it would barely do 65. God, I loved that thing. The first 2 cars I ever drove though were my grandads 86 charcoal metallic Comanche and my mom's 96 jade satin metallic XJ.

If you're interested in going only electric, the PT Cruiser fans fit the 2.5/2.8 radiators well with some trimming. Advertised as pulling up to 2400cfm on the high speed as well. This Bosch one I pulled from a junkyard cools my 3.4 swap very well, even when the 3.4 PCM was turning the fan on at 228°.

Still fighting an intermittent high idle and not sure what else I can do about it. Anyway, this is what I like to call having a longbed with extra steps.

I'm happy that it's going to a good home. I'll def have to come out to CO and see it when it's fixed up.

Interesting that you say this. Both of my 86s, one early and one late, both had the same battery tray in them and the group 34 battery fits. I just had to flip the hold down wedge. As far as an actual battery goes I've had an Interstate MTP-78DT in my truck for a few years and been very happy with it. I know most people don't need the dual terminal though. It's even sat for months while I was doing my engine swap, and a day on a 2amp charge and it's perfectly healthy again.

Been fighting with an EGR check engine light. Changed gaskets, took my diamond hone to the surface, and replaced the MAP sensor in hopes of fixing the light or the vacuum leaks that were intermittent. Eventually just cut a block off plate for the exhaust out of an old motorcycle sprocket and got an intake plate made from sendcutsend. No more vacuum leaks, but I need to program out the spark and fuel corrections for when the EGR would be engaged.

If they're actually 3D printed I, and I'm sure many other people, would love to get my hands on the STL files.

I'd love to do a Moab trip. Haven't been to Utah in the MJ and it's definitely on my list. Don't know if I could do a spring 27 trip, but could surely make the other dates work. Guess I gotta start thinking about sliders lol

I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm not an expert either. Nor do I think POR15 is a do-all product. I only used it because I had about a half gallon sitting around. It also wasn't the only thing I used. I only used POR15 inside the truck on the top surface of the floor and braces. The thinned out POR15 I used in areas of overlap like where the brace goes in between the floor and the brace at the bottom of the back wall, and some vertical welds on the firewall and trans tunnel. Any cavity I couldn't get a brush into got Eastwood internal frame coating applied. Any seam or butt joint outside the truck got a liberal coat of Mastercoat (I would've done everything with Mastercoat but at the time you could only buy a quart at a time, and it was out of stock more often than not), then seam sealer applied over it. And any surface within 3/8-1/2" of a weld got 2 coats of self-etching weld-through primer. The only areas where I thought moisture could get trapped got Mastercoat over the weld-through primer, and I put it on with a small brush and really tried to jam it in there. Time will tell if that was the right approach I guess.

I'd also recommend getting every bit of factory sealer off. I had rust under mine all the way up to the cowl on the drivers side. I also did what @ghetdjc320 suggests with POR15, even going so far as thinning some slightly and applying multiple coats to overlapping areas until I saw a little seeping through. I would use 2K anywhere the gap I was sealing was larger than the shrink ratio of the 1K sealer. I only used a 1K, but in areas with larger gaps I made sure to keep the beads fairly flat and overlapping the seam by half the width of the gap-ish, and it still seems fine almost a year later.

Small 4 cylinder diesels should be significantly more available than they are in the US. Most people don't need top end HP, they need torque to get up and go in traffic. They're usually way better on fuel too. My MK6 Golf averaged about 40 doing almost completely city driving.

Well, after working on vehicles and equipment for 21 years, I pulled off a first today. I fried the PCM for the 3.4. I was using tunercat to lower the fan kick on temps and turn off the EGR since it's throwing a code, and in the middle of writing the files my laptop decided to close a different program and it interrupted the process. There're warnings all over saying that these PCM's are super sensitive to interruptions during reading/writing, but I didn't think that windows closing a different program would fry one. Pulled the PCM apart and the only thing I found that looked suspect was what I think is a Zener diode. Planning to unsolder it and test and if it's good, I'm not sure what to do with this PCM. Luckily, I bought a spare on ebay a while back, so the truck is still drivable.

Not a whole lot of updates for this truck. Just been ironing out small details with the motor swap. I had thought the gauge cluster was causing the parasitic draw, so I got a full cluster from @eaglescout526. Turns out I didn't pay enough attention and had the exciter from the truck harness routed to the constant on the alternator. Oh well, at least I have a tach in the cluster now. Need to get a signal converter to make it work with the Camaro PCM. Got a chance to try out the truck in the snow. Even in 2wd it did admirably. I'm decently impressed with the Sumitomo Encounters. Also found out that the regulator in the original alternator had gone bad as well. Would charge over 1000rpm, but not at idle. I got a new AC Delco one, but there are parts readily available to rebuild the original at least for now, so I kept it and will put new bearing, brushes, and a regulator in it at some point. Made a trip to the local pull a part because they had an 88 XJ and 2 3.4 Camaros. Managed to get a spare throttle body, a throttle cable cover, a spare impossible to find 24x crank sensor, and an automatic shifter bezel and knob for just the price of the throttle body. Tore the old 2.8 apart to take to scrap and am completely amazed it made it well over 300,000 miles. Took the engine and a bunch of other metal to the scrap yard this morning. With a 345lbs camper and 700lbs of scrap in the back it squats just a hair. Thinking I need to get a little longer shackle in the back to even it out when I have a buildout in the camper. The truck weighed in right at 4000lbs with a full tank of gas, basic tools, and spare fluids without me included. Not too shabby for a LWB with a camper.

My most recent one