coheed

Quite an interesting Kia Sorento listed on FB not too far from me; "If it's listed it's still available here you have the craziest Kia Sorento you'll ever see One of a kind in the making just don't have the time to keep going hope somebody likes it as much as I do Price is firm with all the add-ons that go with it $2600.00 considered trade that price comes with another set of rims and tires and also another set of used tires and new Jeep Wrangler fender flares brand new in a box l want to say 2021 if it's listed it's still available please don't ask"

This crossed my mind this morning. You could get that 4l60e from the Camaro and put a manual electronic shifter on it,like this one from Rad Designs. Wouldn't need a computer and he wouldn't have to deal with a clutch while shifting. Would be much cheaper than a standalone controller, but he'd have to shift.

2.8 S10's before 93, 2.8 S10 Blazers before 89, and 2.8/3.1 Camaro/Firebirds 82-92 would all have 60 degree V6 700R4s. Just make sure to get an externally balanced flexplate if you get one from an earlier 2.8. There's also a very illusive 4l60 not E from early 93 Camaro/Firebird 3.4s. It's essentially a 700R4 they called a 4l60

If that's the case, I'd personally wait for a 700R4 or get a T5 from an S10, or just drop a 3.4/4l60E combo in. My whole swap was only about $1000 but that includes a $600 Novak adapter.

I haven't seen anyone run a 4l60E behind a carbed engine. You could potentially ask in the 60-degree V6 group on FB, there's some fairly knowledgeable people there. I would assume you need a standalone controller if you can't get a TPS adapted to the carb. Is there a reason you don't want to go to 3.4 fuel injection? I have a whole thread about running the 3.4 4l60E combo in an MJ and it's a fairly simple albeit tedious process and you can use the factory harness. Another thing to consider is if you're going to put this in a 4wd truck you'll need to pull the 4l60E from a Camaro apart and swap the tail housing and output shaft from either a 4wd 4l60E/700R4 or get an adapter kit from Novak. That said, the 4l60E in my truck currently is getting swapped for an AX15 soon, and it already has the Novak adapter kit installed. We're not far from each other and I'd let it go for basically the price of the adapter once it's out of the truck.

Sweet. Sending you a PM.

There're a few junkyards on car-part.com that have a bellhousing available. But I figured I'd post here just to see if anyone has a Dakota 2.5 AX15 bellhousing stashed away somewhere. Found. Thank you @JolietJEEP'84

The Dakota 2.5 AX15 uses the same 60 degree V6 bellhousing pattern as the 2.5 and 2.8/3.1/3.4. So, Dakota bellhousing, 2.8 externally balanced flywheel and pressure plate, and a clutch disc from an 82 Camaro with a 2.8. With Dakota parts to release the clutch. Not super well documented, but there is a tiny bit of info out there about it.

Well, with the 3-4 pack slipping in the 4L60e and it needing a rebuild I had to weigh my options. The cost to build it properly for my hopeful TDI swap in the future is pretty steep, especially when you include a standalone controller if that swap happens. So, when this '90 AX15 and NP231 popped up for dang cheap an hour away I decided to jump on it. Guess I'm gonna need to gather parts to swap the truck back to a manual . Also, swung by a pull a part local to the guy and managed to score a 2nd shifter, manual pedal assembly, and a spare intermittent wiper box from a 92 2wd XJ for $50.

I also have some JKS ones on my truck and have had no issues with them. Just make sure to grease them often, mine seem to push out the grease more than I would expect.

Yeah, there's a few guys running the SBC pattern 4l60s behind TDI's and they make an adapter for the 60 degree bellhousings as well. Does the list I posted above seem like it's missing anything? I assume I'll also need to look for wear on some other parts and check solenoids and things as I would be going through it as well.

No, I mean a VW TDI. A BHW can make 300lb/ft off just a tune, and even the older ALH can make right under that with upgrades.

Yes, it's running on the original PCM with no changes made to how it manages the transmission. I've been using scan9495 and Tunercat using the ALDL port and both programs have been great and easy to use so far. The truck isn't the vehicle I use the most, and I've only been driving around in 2nd since I've found the slipping issue in an attempt to keep it from getting worse or overheating. With the hopes of swapping a TDI in the future with up to 300lb/ft torque, would it be smart to upgrade the planetaries? There seems to be heavy debate over 4 vs 5 and whether it's worth it or not. As far as the apply servo you mentioned, is that the 2-4 servo? I was looking at this build your own kit 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E Custom Transmission Loaded Master Rebuild Kit with these options: Gasket & Seal Overhaul Kit (1993-E1997) 700R4 4L60E Molded Rubber Piston Upgrade Kit (1982-E1997) Friction Module w/ Z-Pak Upgrade (1987-Up) Raybestos High Performance Kolene Steel Module (1987-UP) High-Energy ProSeries 2-4 Band by Raybestos (1982-UP) Master Bushing Kit (1985-UP) Torrington Bearing Kit (1982-2006) w/o 2001-UP Reaction to Sun Shell Bearing SmartShell® Heavy Duty Reaction Shell Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax Valve Body Separator Plate by Transgo (1993-1994) HD Forward Sprag (29-Element) Borg-Warner (1987-UP) Low Reverse Roller Clutch Sprag (1987-Up) Borg Warner Performance Corvette 2-4 Servo Assembly (1982-UP) Ready-to-Install 4L60E Pump Hard Parts Kit 10-Vane 1-2 Accumulator Piston (1982-UP) Aluminum Small Pin Style Transmission Reprogramming Kit (1993-UP) TransGo #4L60E-HD2 Servo Release Check Valve Kit (1982-UP) Sonnax

I only did the floor pans and frame caps on my truck, but I would think if you're spot/plug welding everything I wouldn't worry about residual stress in the frame. Unless you're using an industrial spot welder you're gonna be going a lot slower than the factory when welding. Meaning heat soak is gonna be a lot less of a factor. I would worry more about warping the rocker panels and cab corners with heat since they're sheet metal. As long as you work slow (but weld quickly) and let things cool properly I wouldn't worry about it too much.

My first car came out 18 years before I was even born, so idk about that lol

Rebuilding it is probably what I'll settle on. There's a lot of love and hate for the 4L60, but it seems like if it's built well and not abused or too much torque put through it it'll do fine. There's no way I'd spend the time and money to rebuild and not upgrade the common failure parts. Unfortunately, taking it to a shop isn't in the budget. To get it built with the parts I'd want, parts alone would be $1000-1200 doing some minimal pricing over the last day. Then add on $150-200/hr labor rates, it'll get real pricey real quick.

I know the 4L60e isn't a commonly used or talked about transmission on this site, but I figured with the wealth of knowledge here and how common they are someone will be able to chime in. So, the 4L60e I've swapped into my MJ from a 94 Camaro is slipping in 3rd and 4th. I know the common issue is the 3-4 clutch pack burning up, and there's no dearth of information about diagnosing and rebuilding this transmission. Unfortunately, this is an odd use case, as it's a 60 degree bellhousing and I've swapped the output shaft and tail housing so I can run a NP242 on the back of it. So, picking up a known good unit is very slim pickins. One alternative would be to find an AX15 or NV3550 and swap the truck back to a manual. I kept the 4L60e with the motor as the AX5 in the truck could have been original, with over 350k miles on it, and some point down the road I'd like to TDI swap the truck. The 4L60e seemed like a decent option as they hold power well if built right, and standalone controllers are easy to get whenever I went that route. Swapping back to manual would also mean getting another clutch pedal assembly, master and slave cylinders, lines, flywheel and clutch, a Dakota bellhousing, and potentially driveshafts (both the AX and NV would be a half inch longer than the 4L60). The other, I suppose more straight forward solution, would be to pull and diagnose the 4L60e and replace what's needed/ rebuild. That's where I'm hesitant. I've never done any work on an automatic aside from pulling this one apart to swap out the output shaft and tail housing. When I bought the Camaro from @dasbulliwagen it had about 140k on it, and the person he got it off of said the trans had about 30k on a rebuild (which may or may not be true, I don't really know how to tell because like I said I have no experience with autos). With no way to know how many miles are actually on the 4L60e, would it just be smarter to rebuild the unit fully instead of pulling and replacing some parts? By my math it seems like rebuilding the 4L60 and swapping to an AX/NV would be about the same cost if I bought all the parts myself and upgraded the common failure points. How long is a rebuilt 4L60e going to last as long as I make sure to maintain it properly? Also, does anyone have any good and trusted resources, hard copy books or online, for rebuilding and diagnosing the 4L60e?

I don't know why it wouldn't. Unless it's been replaced with something real odd it should just be the normal style that has an anchor glued to the glass.

I called a few different shops last year and most of the chains didn't want to touch the truck because of the age. I eventually found a local shop and asked them to order one for a 2000 XJ and get a new rubber gasket to replace the plastic tabs and chrome trim. They installed it with no issues and even treated some rust in the window frame. The windshields are the same for all years, only the trim is different. The rubber trim you don't have to worry about flying off down the road or finding new plastic clips when they break.

I can't find any pictures of my actual car, but mine was a 73 Super Beetle in Marina Blue. Had the stock 1600 and a autostick three speed. It was a huge pile, but I still miss it. The wiring under the rear seat caught fire multiple times, and I had to take the heat exchangers out because they would dump exhaust into the cabin. Had an unbaffled EMPI stinger exhaust, so it was louder than Harleys I would pull up to at stop lights, and it would barely do 65. God, I loved that thing. The first 2 cars I ever drove though were my grandads 86 charcoal metallic Comanche and my mom's 96 jade satin metallic XJ.

If you're interested in going only electric, the PT Cruiser fans fit the 2.5/2.8 radiators well with some trimming. Advertised as pulling up to 2400cfm on the high speed as well. This Bosch one I pulled from a junkyard cools my 3.4 swap very well, even when the 3.4 PCM was turning the fan on at 228°.

Still fighting an intermittent high idle and not sure what else I can do about it. Anyway, this is what I like to call having a longbed with extra steps.

Interesting that you say this. Both of my 86s, one early and one late, both had the same battery tray in them and the group 34 battery fits. I just had to flip the hold down wedge. As far as an actual battery goes I've had an Interstate MTP-78DT in my truck for a few years and been very happy with it. I know most people don't need the dual terminal though. It's even sat for months while I was doing my engine swap, and a day on a 2amp charge and it's perfectly healthy again.

Been fighting with an EGR check engine light. Changed gaskets, took my diamond hone to the surface, and replaced the MAP sensor in hopes of fixing the light or the vacuum leaks that were intermittent. Eventually just cut a block off plate for the exhaust out of an old motorcycle sprocket and got an intake plate made from sendcutsend. No more vacuum leaks, but I need to program out the spark and fuel corrections for when the EGR would be engaged.

If they're actually 3D printed I, and I'm sure many other people, would love to get my hands on the STL files.