coheed

I can't find any pictures of my actual car, but mine was a 73 Super Beetle in Marina Blue. Had the stock 1600 and a autostick three speed. It was a huge pile, but I still miss it. The wiring under the rear seat caught fire multiple times, and I had to take the heat exchangers out because they would dump exhaust into the cabin. Had an unbaffled EMPI stinger exhaust, so it was louder than Harleys I would pull up to at stop lights, and it would barely do 65. God, I loved that thing. The first 2 cars I ever drove though were my grandads 86 charcoal metallic Comanche and my mom's 96 jade satin metallic XJ.

If you're interested in going only electric, the PT Cruiser fans fit the 2.5/2.8 radiators well with some trimming. Advertised as pulling up to 2400cfm on the high speed as well. This Bosch one I pulled from a junkyard cools my 3.4 swap very well, even when the 3.4 PCM was turning the fan on at 228°.

Still fighting an intermittent high idle and not sure what else I can do about it. Anyway, this is what I like to call having a longbed with extra steps.

Interesting that you say this. Both of my 86s, one early and one late, both had the same battery tray in them and the group 34 battery fits. I just had to flip the hold down wedge. As far as an actual battery goes I've had an Interstate MTP-78DT in my truck for a few years and been very happy with it. I know most people don't need the dual terminal though. It's even sat for months while I was doing my engine swap, and a day on a 2amp charge and it's perfectly healthy again.

Been fighting with an EGR check engine light. Changed gaskets, took my diamond hone to the surface, and replaced the MAP sensor in hopes of fixing the light or the vacuum leaks that were intermittent. Eventually just cut a block off plate for the exhaust out of an old motorcycle sprocket and got an intake plate made from sendcutsend. No more vacuum leaks, but I need to program out the spark and fuel corrections for when the EGR would be engaged.

If they're actually 3D printed I, and I'm sure many other people, would love to get my hands on the STL files.

I'd love to do a Moab trip. Haven't been to Utah in the MJ and it's definitely on my list. Don't know if I could do a spring 27 trip, but could surely make the other dates work. Guess I gotta start thinking about sliders lol

I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm not an expert either. Nor do I think POR15 is a do-all product. I only used it because I had about a half gallon sitting around. It also wasn't the only thing I used. I only used POR15 inside the truck on the top surface of the floor and braces. The thinned out POR15 I used in areas of overlap like where the brace goes in between the floor and the brace at the bottom of the back wall, and some vertical welds on the firewall and trans tunnel. Any cavity I couldn't get a brush into got Eastwood internal frame coating applied. Any seam or butt joint outside the truck got a liberal coat of Mastercoat (I would've done everything with Mastercoat but at the time you could only buy a quart at a time, and it was out of stock more often than not), then seam sealer applied over it. And any surface within 3/8-1/2" of a weld got 2 coats of self-etching weld-through primer. The only areas where I thought moisture could get trapped got Mastercoat over the weld-through primer, and I put it on with a small brush and really tried to jam it in there. Time will tell if that was the right approach I guess.

I'd also recommend getting every bit of factory sealer off. I had rust under mine all the way up to the cowl on the drivers side. I also did what @ghetdjc320 suggests with POR15, even going so far as thinning some slightly and applying multiple coats to overlapping areas until I saw a little seeping through. I would use 2K anywhere the gap I was sealing was larger than the shrink ratio of the 1K sealer. I only used a 1K, but in areas with larger gaps I made sure to keep the beads fairly flat and overlapping the seam by half the width of the gap-ish, and it still seems fine almost a year later.

Small 4 cylinder diesels should be significantly more available than they are in the US. Most people don't need top end HP, they need torque to get up and go in traffic. They're usually way better on fuel too. My MK6 Golf averaged about 40 doing almost completely city driving.

Well, after working on vehicles and equipment for 21 years, I pulled off a first today. I fried the PCM for the 3.4. I was using tunercat to lower the fan kick on temps and turn off the EGR since it's throwing a code, and in the middle of writing the files my laptop decided to close a different program and it interrupted the process. There're warnings all over saying that these PCM's are super sensitive to interruptions during reading/writing, but I didn't think that windows closing a different program would fry one. Pulled the PCM apart and the only thing I found that looked suspect was what I think is a Zener diode. Planning to unsolder it and test and if it's good, I'm not sure what to do with this PCM. Luckily, I bought a spare on ebay a while back, so the truck is still drivable.

Not a whole lot of updates for this truck. Just been ironing out small details with the motor swap. I had thought the gauge cluster was causing the parasitic draw, so I got a full cluster from @eaglescout526. Turns out I didn't pay enough attention and had the exciter from the truck harness routed to the constant on the alternator. Oh well, at least I have a tach in the cluster now. Need to get a signal converter to make it work with the Camaro PCM. Got a chance to try out the truck in the snow. Even in 2wd it did admirably. I'm decently impressed with the Sumitomo Encounters. Also found out that the regulator in the original alternator had gone bad as well. Would charge over 1000rpm, but not at idle. I got a new AC Delco one, but there are parts readily available to rebuild the original at least for now, so I kept it and will put new bearing, brushes, and a regulator in it at some point. Made a trip to the local pull a part because they had an 88 XJ and 2 3.4 Camaros. Managed to get a spare throttle body, a throttle cable cover, a spare impossible to find 24x crank sensor, and an automatic shifter bezel and knob for just the price of the throttle body. Tore the old 2.8 apart to take to scrap and am completely amazed it made it well over 300,000 miles. Took the engine and a bunch of other metal to the scrap yard this morning. With a 345lbs camper and 700lbs of scrap in the back it squats just a hair. Thinking I need to get a little longer shackle in the back to even it out when I have a buildout in the camper. The truck weighed in right at 4000lbs with a full tank of gas, basic tools, and spare fluids without me included. Not too shabby for a LWB with a camper.

My most recent one

I read somewhere that 10° of slack when you rotate the crank vs the cam was acceptable. This one had about 20°. I'm flabbergasted that this engine only failed to start once, and it was because I flooded the carb.

You would think with phones getting bigger it would be easier to type on them. Maybe my fingers are just getting clumsier.

The thing I find really funny is when I picked up my camper last year, the couple that runs and owns the company had just finished putting a camper on their brand new 25 tundra, and the campers had essentially the same amount of room inside them. And the tundra has a lower payload capacity than the Comanche with metric ton springs

Right? And that van was a 2wd, low top roof, with smaller tires than mine. An old coworker has a 4wd high top on I think 31s and it's enormous.

It's possible that in the 330000 miles it got swapped out, but it says 2.8 on the block and it doesn't have the telltale red tag that GM would put on their rebuilt blocks. Regardless if it's the original it's amazing it made it as far as it did. And I drove that engine across the country twice. I am too. Especially so given how known these engine were for having oiling issues.

Yeah it is. Well chalk that one up to the Y and the T being next to each other on the keyboard lol

Figured some of y'all would get a kick out of this. I finally got around to tearing apart the 2.8 that I swapped out of my truck to take to scrap and honestly, I'm more amazed that it lasted as long as it did after seeing the internals. This engine had 330,000 on the odometer when I bought it in 2019, with the speedo cable unhooked mind you, and I put around 30,000 on it before I swapped it out. Every bearing and surface has deposits and galling, and the galley under the intake was almost solid with carbon and gunk deposits. I'm amazed it was able to lubricate itself as long as it did. And the timing chain had stretched so much I was almost able to get it off the cam gear without unbolting anything. Maybe I should go buy a lottery ticket

Next to my ex's 2010? Tundra Next to some massive Gladiators. Not quite the same comparison, but my truck lifted 3" on 32s with a 7.5' camper that has a full queen bed next to what's considered a medium sized sprinter van. These always amazing me at how big they are. Another fun one. Comparing an old TJ to a newer Wrangler. Even without the 35's they've ballooned up quite a bit. And compared to what was considered a full-size truck when the Comanche was new. And one for fun. Without the MASSIVE tires the F150 isn't much bigger than a lwb MJ.

Ok, so everything that seems like it may fit given what parts were on the truck has a decent chance of being the original option? Could the seat code have corresponded to the higher end seats? Because it did have the highland check with vinyl winged bucket seats.

Do either of you guys happen to know which codes got reused over the years? I'm curious as to how this truck (my grandfather's) was originally optioned from the factory. Like would the RAF code mean that the RX135 that was in the truck was ordered with the truck, or the code got reused and it was a different option at the time?

Front Driveshaft Lengths | NAXJA Forums - North American XJ Association I found this thread over on Naxja, and it seems accurate because the front I have from a 2.8/AX5/NP207 combo is 25.5" collapsed. Yoke to yoke with the 4L60e/NP242 is 29.5", so the first one on the thread should be just the right length.

A 700r4 would've made my swap easier for sure. I went with the 4L60e that came in the Camaro and used a Novak adapter to run a NP242 on the back of it. Unsurprisingly that adapter was the most expensive part in the whole swap lol. You never know, you may end up finding a 3.4 in a yard and could yank the injection system off of it. Idk what the actual power difference between a well tuned Weber 38/38 or a Holley vs the FI is, but one of the reasons I wanted it was going camping in the mountains and driving across the country the big elevation differences always killed what little power the 2.8 put out. Climbing up pikes peak a few years ago made the truck feel like it had 25hp, and obviously I'll have less of that with the FI.