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A-man930

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About A-man930

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    MJ Junkie

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    St. Louis
  • Interests
    Wrenching. Eating. Sleeping.

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  1. Test fit: Now that the stand-offs are in place I can slash-cut the front to match the wheel well angle.
  2. Got the standoffs welded in tonight. Definitely caused some warpage during the process, but everything fits together as intended. I'm too ashamed of the rest of the welding to post pics Let's just say I need lots of practice!
  3. Progress has been slow lately but here's an update:
  4. I'm on the fence about this stuff. I've used it in the past, and I know this is pretty well the perfect scenario to use it in, but I'm not sure if I'll use it or not. It has pretty poor adhesion properties and if you do a bit of research you'll see that its use has become somewhat controversial. I want to coat all of the surfaces I have exposed right now with something that will hold up really good; I was considering using some epoxy primer over EVERYTHING and grinding away the areas around the welds. I'll just have to figure out a way to get some kind of coating in there after its all attached.
  5. Cool build, can't wait to hear more about your oil pan
  6. I bet you do! I nearly embarked on a 4bt swap into a Suburban with a G56 or NV behind it. I decided to go the TDi route myself, got an ALH from a 2000 Jetta and a trans adapter from tdconversions, just waiting for the right time to go for it.
  7. Also look at the VW TDi. Muuuuuch lighter than the CAT or Cummins options, designed for on-highway use, easily modified, huge global support, and readily available in many renditions all the way from full mechanical through commonrail. Swap components are commercially available from at least two vendors for Jeep transmissions.
  8. Good thoughts indeed, though I'm at a point now where I'm not willing to make any significant $changes$. Also, I'm going to be attaching some 1.75" tube for "nerf bars" onto the outside. As for the thickness issue, the outer pieces I'll be putting on are 1/8" thick. Still on the thin side I know, but more substantial than 16ga. Thanks for sharing your thoughts though! Maybe somebody will see this thread and decide to tweak it as you are suggesting. I mean, what else are forums for, right?
  9. Got the expert to help me with the other side:
  10. Been doing lots and lots of trimming to get these to sit flat against the remnant of the inner rocker and up against the "side" of the truck but I think its just about right. You can see the right side is not perfectly flat, which is frustrating. Anyways, I decided to stiffen up the 16ga with some 2.5" dimples; should also help with getting some rust protection in there after everything is closed in. In this picture you can see the cab corner I had to re-shape; it's ugly, but I'm not sure how much better I can get it with a hammer and dolly. You can also see why I wish I would have spec'd more than 5" across the top
  11. Watts (power) is a way to express the brightness of a lamp, the torque of a motor, the output of a heater, etc. Volts x Amps = Watts I (personally) recommend keeping Watts out of the conversation as it's not really that useful in the diagnostic thought process. It's mostly useful/necessary when designing circuits. In your wire example the wire burns through (or the connector body melts) because the resistance buildup at that point is causing heat, and the heat is further increasing the resistance in a vicious cycle, all the while the current flow is decreasing; it doesn't really matter what else is in the circuit... If the wire/connector is too weak to handle the heat buildup then it will physically fall apart, otherwise it will simply exist, perhaps discolor/burn surrounding objects, and choke down the current flow through that circuit. The circuit's intentional resistance (motor, lamp, solenoid, or whatever) must be designed to handle the heat it generates, otherwise it will suffer the same fate for the same reason.
  12. Keep in mind this is a topic that folks get doctorate degrees in, but this is how I guide my automotive students through low-voltage DC circuit basics: -Ohm's law simplified: Volts push Amps (current) through Ohms (resistances). -Current (Amps) is the only thing that "flows." -Current passing through resistances produces heat; higher heat = higher resistance... -Given a consistent voltage source (usually the case in automotive), the total resistance value of any given circuit is what determines how much current will flow through that circuit. Ideally, the only significant resistances in the circuit are intentional ones (motor, solenoid, light bulb, etc.) However, an unintentional resistance added into a circuit will also contribute to the total resistance and reduce the amount of current that will flow; this is often why we see lights that aren't as bright as they should be, motors that spin slowly, etc. -Voltage drop is a phenomenon described in Krichoff's voltage law; voltage is "consumed" (drops) across resistances when current is flowing through the circuit, and ALL of the source voltage will be dropped somewhere in that circuit. This is handy in diagnosis because we can count on seeing a voltage drop occurring at any point where there is a resistance, and the highest voltage drop value will be observed at the point where there's the most resistance. In a healthy circuit, nearly all 12.whatever volts are dropped across the intentional resistors (motor, solenoid, light bulb, etc.) However, any unintentional resistances in the circuit will also drop voltage... So, when you attempt to operate your unidentified device (?), your hypothetical cruddy "toaster wire" connector will add resistance to that circuit, causing that load to perform poorly (or not at all), and you will be able to measure a correspondingly significant voltage drop across it (the connector).
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