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Found 7 results

  1. Well its good to be back in an MJ. MY previous account would not let me back in (19674x4) I used to have a 88 2wd Sporttruck. Sold it to find a new truck. Here recently i had a 99 XJ that i built up extensively Link here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/project-blueberry-211258/ Just traded the XJ for a 90 Eliminator...will continue with the build thread as more things come up. I spend most of my time over on Cherokee Forum, so check there for most up to date build progress. Here is my MJ build thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/project-patience-90-mj-dd-trail-sleeper-231553/
  2. Oh yeah burnt the hell out of that throw out bearing. Wouldn't you know it, I was on my way to work. Yep custom intake and open up air flow I, someone else on CC has done similiar using a speaker mesh to cover as to mine is just open. Attempted to do CAD flip but needed to jack up truck to aline 2 piece shaft for colar to slide over. Someone elses photo on CC but just to show what it looked like before I closed it up. Oh that's my clutch pedal and clutch master push rod linkage Cleaned up both brake and clutch pedal welded clutch pedal Reinstalled, just wish I could have removerd the hanger for clean up too.
  3. Its time to start me a formal build thread. I'll post up as many of the old pictures I've got from over the years. Its been a great little truck and has many memories attached to it, so here goes! Got her in October of '07 from another CC member: KYMJ A nice, rust-free, 4x4 MJ with all the right stuff for a good price. Had to jump on it!
  4. I did a SOA lift. I have the Rusty's RX300 reservoir shocks. The rear axle is a Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ, stripped of all of its mounts. So I need to weld new shock mounts. I'm debating on the changing the shock mounts, angle, and rotation. 1. Use original factory design. Weld shock mounts on axle same direction as the ones on the frame (parallel to axle) 2. Use factory top mounts, but weld new axle mount opposite direction of the factory top mounts. ( EX Top = __ and Bottom = | ) My reasoning is the shock will be able to tilt for flex, and tilt as the axle swings back as it goes up, due to the shackle. (obviously the bushing on the shock will allow that tilt, but limited) 3. make a new top shock mount and weld new mounts on axle, / \ something like that. I was also thinking of putting these on the factory top mounts to change the angle of the shock, http://lgcdn.jeep4x4center.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/e/teraflex-shock-mounting-bracket-TF-1514700-bm_1511.jpg There are a few threads on rear shock installs, but not a lot of pictures. anyone want to share pictures of their install? Lastly, when I started my thought possess, I was thinking the shaft of the shock should be at ~50% when the truck is static. However, after putting more thought on it, I'm thinking its best to have only ~20% to 25% of the shock when truck is static. Allowing for greater droop / drop. As an axle is flexed (such as putting a tire 12" high, and the other tire 10" lower), as the axle is flexed up, the whole truck also lifts in Saved Content I did a SOA lift. I have the Rusty's RX300 reservoir shocks. The rear axle is a Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ, stripped of all of its mounts. So I need to weld new shock mounts. I'm debating on the changing the shock mounts, angle, and rotation. 1. Use original factory design. Weld shock mounts on axle same direction as the ones on the frame (parallel to axle) 2. Use factory top mounts, but weld new axle mount opposite direction of the factory top mounts. ( EX Top = __ and Bottom = | ) My reasoning is the shock will be able to tilt for flex, and tilt as the axle swings back as it goes up, due to the shackle. (obviously the bushing on the shock will allow that tilt, but limited) 3. make a new top shock mount and weld new mounts on axle, / \ something like that. I was also thinking of putting these on the factory top mounts to change the angle of the shock, http://lgcdn.jeep4x4...700-bm_1511.jpg There are a few threads on rear shock installs, but not a lot of pictures. anyone want to share pictures of their install? Lastly, when I started my thought possess, I was thinking the shaft of the shock should be at ~50% when the truck is static. However, after putting more thought on it, I'm thinking its best to have only ~20% to 25% of the shock when truck is static. Allowing for greater droop / drop. As an axle is flexed (such as putting a tire 12" high, and the other tire 10" lower), as the axle is flexed up, the whole truck also lifts in proportion to the articulation. So having equal length on the shaft may not be optimal. Is this what most of you have done?
  5. Yes, i know this has been talked about 1000 times everywhere. it is a dead horse, that has been be at and beat and beat. Yes i looked around a lot, but i still am confused. I can't find any exact set ups that answer my questions. So I'm going SOA in the back. I know what to do there, new shocks, spring perches........ but I am confused about the front. I'm not really sure if i know everything thats needed to do front end up to the same height as the back. I know SOA will give me 6inches about, after i take out my old 3 inch lift shackles, but what do i need for the front? I found alexia's kit, but a lot of the parts are no existent on the websites he posted. I know i need springs, shocks, control arm drop bracket or long arms, new track bar, brake lines. Is that it? any recommendations? thanks y'all, and sorry for all the posts.
  6. EDIT: I guess the title should be more specific to the question about converting the front to leaf springs. Pardon my inaccurate problem description. I am kind of new to the off-roading modification scene. I am wondering what the deal is with people doing leaf conversions on the front end (SOA conversion, is that the term?) I've done a little bit of reading on the forums but cannot get a clear understanding. I don't understand the benefits or why someone would do it to their Comanche. I see it sometimes on Wranglers, and honestly with Wranglers the benefits seems more intuitive. But I'm curious about the Comanche. To me, it seems like it would drastically reduce articulation and turning radius (unless your wheels are sticking out a ton). I guess, specifically, I'm hesitant to buy a local Comanche that is for sale because it's got this SOA conversion on the front and I know nothing about. Seems like a ton of welding and whatnot, although it looks like it was done well. Says it's got Dana 44 and 60 and then 4" YJ leafs on the front. Is this front-end leaf conversion a normal thing? Just looking for some last-minute insight. Thanks much! These are the pics on the ad (you post it on the internet it becomes fair game, right B)). Image Not Found
  7. I have good (wholesale) access to a local driveshaft builder; after speaking with him briefly today I am considering having them lengthen (re-tube) a stock front shaft and use it in my SOA/SYE project. The only objection he had to the idea was if the front Ujoints were a smaller series than what came in the rear, which I don't believe is the case in our trucks.... Can anyone confirm this is an un-stupid idea??
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