coheed

Looks like Ironman4x4fab is going to make some shackle relocation brackets. I personally would buy a set because it's an automatic inch of lift and if you're running longer shackles you can make sure your shackle angle is correct, instead of extreme like some of the longer shackles tend to get. But they're saying they'll only fit short beds. I don't know if the distance from shackle hole to the last bumper mount hole is different from lwb to swb? I measured my lwb at 3 11/16ish. Could someone measure their swb to see how far off they are?

As someone who's had asthma since birth and has been in or around the welding field for about 10 years at this point I only started using a P100 respirator about 2 years ago. The difference it makes is astounding. Even if other dudes are a holes and try to make fun of you, the PPE is worth it.

If you have any interest in replacing the stock tail lights, the oracle LED ones have insanely bright reverse lights. They've got their own issues like not having the light projected to the sides or reflectors and don't have an OEM look. But the actual brake/turn and reverse lights are much brighter than what most LEDs can accomplish in the stock housing.

Well, my generator is only there because it's a fairly large/heavy one and I haven't put wheels on it yet. So, that ends up being the best interim storage place lol. Once I get wheels on the gen I'd like to either buy or build some storage up front. Diesel heaters are looking much better these days as alternative to propane. I've read up on them some and it seems to pay to get the smallest one that meets your needs. People are saying if you run them on lower settings all the time that they build up soot and need more maintenance than if ran on WOT all the time. Also, it only weighed in at 1150#? With the idler axle and c-channel tongue on mine it might clock in under 1000.

Yes on the 2.8 it's inside the carb. If you look at the bottom of the block on the driver's side there's a mechanical fuel pump that'll have 2 rubber lines coming in and a metal one going up to the carb. You have to undo the meal line going into the carb and the little metal cylinder that it goes into is the housing. That then unscrews from the carb and you can slide the filter out. Installation is opposite of removal. Rockauto has the reprints of the FSM decently cheap and it'll have all the diagrams you'd ever want. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12534281&cc=1181393&pt=10335

Having sold 2 cars for a family member overseas I can tell you the thing that makes it the easiest is a vehicle specific power of attorney. That way your point of sale person can just sign off the title for you and you don't have to worry about certified mail or any of that garbage.

2.8 with an AX5 and 31s on mine and the switch from 3.55 to 4.10s was great. Without the 5 gear anything over 60 would be real buzzy, but I use 4th up until 60 95% of the time. If you decide that swapping axles will be easier then I'd also upgrade to a beefier axle while you're at it. Unless you can find an MJ or XJ that already has both to swap over.

I'll just leave this here

Also, there's the alternative of grabbing one from an XJ and modifying it like @ThatJeepGuy did. This is what I'm planning on doing next time I find a good one in the junkyard.

Man every time I see another MJ trailer with a cap on it I like it more. You've done a great job with this build. The weight balance on mine is also skewed to the rear and I can get it almost vertical by lifting the tongue. I currently have my generator living on the tongue and it helps a lot.

Are there other problems that come with the 207 I don't know about? I mean my speedo has been inaccurate since I bumped to bigger tires, but it's better with the 3.55 to 4.10 swap, other than that I've had no issues and my truck is lifted and the aforementioned. Though there may be issues with the 207 in the XJs I don't know about.

@eaglescout526 Here's some pics I took today and some I grabbed off the internet. I was wrong, only the speedo gear housing is the same from the 231 to the 242. Np228 Np242 Np207 Here it's obvious that the tail housing couldn't be swapped as that bulge on the right side of the housing is open for fluid to pass through presumably. Np231 So, as we know the speedo gear housing is the same in pretty much all the transfer cases aside from the 207, but the threads are the same on the 228/231/242 and the 207 housing. So, obviously any cable that'll attach to one will attach to the other. If the only problem is the speedo gear TH350 gear are readily available and are the same size as the 207 ones. You can even get full kits with a variety of gears, the corresponding gear that goes on the output shaft, and a new housing TH350 Master Speedometer Gear Kit 7 8 9 10 Drive 17 18 19 20 21 22 Driven | eBay

I have a 207, 229, and a 242 (same as 231) all on hand and could pull and compare tomorrow if people were interested.

The cutting an x is a good idea. I'm using a small Dremel with a cutoff wheel for the tiny parts I can't get my regular grinder into and I may do that. Cutting the spot welds out is more work and more tedious up front, but in theory less work down the road. The tricky part for me will be up at the wiper cowl. Luckily for me the seams where the spot welds are are solid. It's the panels next to the seam that are crazy rusted.

On this patch panel did you end up cutting the spot welds out from the fender side? I'm currently doing this section and all the way up to the top of the firewall and I'm debating how exactly I want to go about it. I believe the body trim was dealer installed. Either way whether it was stock or not, if you don't like it take it off. You can use fishing line or dental floss and just fish it behind the trim and basically "saw" it off.

This week I spent my little spare time tearing down the steering columns I have to make one good one. Now I have a freshly cleaned and greased tilt steering column to go back in the truck. Also, removed the shift interlock so I don't have to worry about that. I'll also gain intermittent wipers with this swap. Last night I got the pass side 99% cut out. Will need to drop in the new pan and mark where to trim on the tunnel. Gonna devote all of tomorrow to that and getting the drivers side out.

I would also switch to an electronic flasher just to see if it makes a difference. However there's very mixed results of whether you need them or not with the Oracle tail lights. I have them on my truck and I'm still using the same thermal flashers with no issues and I've heard other people say the same. But there's also quite a few people that say they needed to switch. Seems Oracle may be inconsistent with whether they put resistors in the tail lights or not.

Yeah I'd be interested if it's good and you're willing to cut it out.

Yeah I've already got both full pans and the braces from them. I'm just trying to save myself some time if someone had a truck they could cut some good pieces out of.

Seeing if I can make my life easier than recreating these sections of my firewall. If anyone has a parts truck I'd like to get basically the whole driver's side from the floor pan to the cowl between the frame and the A-pillar. The passenger I'd just need the corner bit under the blower and coolant line areas and the like corner spot where the floor pan meets the firewall and A-pillar.

Well it's been missing carpet since I've owned it. That's why I drive it more in the cooler months. Which admittedly is kinda lame since I live in the South. The firewall patches are gonna be interesting with all the complex curves on them. Luckily I actually cut that section of trans tunnel out of my grandad's truck before the rest went to scrap so I have an OE piece to throw over that particular one. Yeah, I've been cutting with them dry and that's probably not helping. I may get some cutting fluid from work and see if that helps. I got a pack of 3 of the blades on eBay for $12 with 2 day shipping so that should more than get me through this job.

From what I know this truck used to be an estimator truck for a roofing company. So I'm not all that surprised lol The patch over the slave cylinder access hole was glued in place with dicor.

Yeah, when I first got the truck the blower was wired to a house switch. At least they also put it in a box lol

Well, I think it was the same person who wired the blower motor to a house light switch so I usually don't give em too much grace lol I love the way the ARB looks, but I don't want to pay ARB prices and the used ones disappear real quick. Aside from that I think the factory is the best looking bumper. Well, I guess I spoke too soon and put my foot in my mouth. All that heinous seam sealer was hiding rot. Went searching for firewall patch stuff to see how others did it and stumbled on this thread from earlier in the year. This made me want to remove every bit of seam sealer and check every crevice for rust. I really only want to do this once. Good thing I did. There's rot up to the cowl on the drivers and rust is starting on the passengers. I poked a bore scope into the cowl and looks like there's no rust up there so I'll spray a good bit of the Eastwood internal stuff into the cowl and it should prevent it in the future. In addition, there's a rust hole underneath the heater core inlet, a hole in the bottom corner of the pass firewall and a big patch of rot under the fuse block bulkhead. The firewall also has a sizeable crack next to the clutch master mount holes. Not sure if I want to just weld over that or patch it. I think I may just weld it since I'll be going auto with the 3.4 swap. Would really like to have a nice discussion with the person responsible for deciding this truck need this much seam sealer. I did manage to get both braces off the drivers side and the inside of the frame looks great. Yay for small victories. Using the Blair spot weld cutter and these things like to skip around a lot. I was wedging the cold chisel in between panels and when the cutter got deep enough it usually gives a little pop. Unfortunately, I didn't realize I only had one of the cutter bits. It got me through the drivers side braces, the small one on the pass, and about half the big pass brace before losing all the teeth. So, here's where we wait for a bit.

Definitely interested in a set of these since my truck is stripped for floors anyway.