coheed

As I mentioned in the thread I made about just bleeding the rear brakes I had a crappy old leveling valve that wasn't really worth keeping. Today I took it to work and cut it open on the bandsaw. I didn't realize the blade guides were loose so the cut was a little crooked, but it's still a pretty decent cross section of the valve and all the bits therein. I'm pretty positive that the little green valve piece is oriented the way I did it in the picture, but someone more knowledgeable of brake valves may correct me. If it is oriented that way it has about 3/32 of back and forth that would change how much pressure is let through. The spring got absolutely destroyed and that was the largest piece I could recover.

It's on the bottom of the carburetor facing the driver's fender. If you undo the steel line coming from the fuel pump on the block, you can unscrew the entire housing the line goes in.

No need man. It's something inquiring minds want to know. I have an old crappy rear valve I could try and slice open on the band saw at work I noticed a lot of debate about the emergency line in my googling and we might be able to figure something out that way? Or would we need to cut the front block open?

I disconnected at the wheel cylinders if that makes a difference. And clamped the rear rubber line while doing all the work so I would lose as little as possible. Is there a way to check if the emergency line has air in it aside from tripping it or doing the factory procedure?

As the title states I'm wondering if I can just bleed my rear brakes without having to do the entire complicated procedure from the FSM. Reason I ask is I just recently bled all of my brakes when I had to replace my rubber lines, then I disconnected just the rear during my axle swap. Hoping to avoid doing all of them again. Edit: I should have mentioned that I do still have the rear prop valve installed, and don't want the extra hassle of removing it at the moment.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115801642492?hash=item1af650d5fc:g:eTEAAOSw26NkXQgK At this point the new Keyparts ones are a better deal than used ones.

So wait, you guys are getting emails from them? I haven't received a single email since I put in the pre-order and got a confirmation for it.

I'm using Centric 15067054 and 15067053 for the fronts and 15067318 for the rear. Great fit and finish. You can see them installed in this post.

Sad to see. Always an awful day when someone you've spent so much time and effort in gets wrecked. If there's no frame damage you could link the rear? If there is you could build a truggy

If there was interest in getting a group buy together I'd be in. Hell if we could get them to do the lifted metric ton one again I'd pay decent money for that set.

It's incredibly basic. I just built a frame with 2x4s and then slapped section of 3/4 OSB on top of it. I think it measures 30 by 80. You can also see in the pictures where I cut out the back bottom of the frame to put the drawer in. The drawer is just made out of the leftover cut of the OSB. I also put 2 eye hooks on either end of the frame and ran 2 turnbuckles to the tie down loops in the bed to lock the frame in place. Eventually I want to redo it so that the platform goes all the way across, and I think next time I do it I'll take the plastic bed liner out to get a little bit more headroom. I'd also like to have two drawers instead of one. I know I've posted in the FB groups when people ask for pics of sleeping setups and there's been a few others that've replied as well, so you might be able to find more there. Truck bed living on Instagram shares a bunch of people's builds and their website has a huge index of info for truck bed living/camping as well.

You can get amazing deals on those government surplus auctions. We recently auctioned off a old lathe that had a 8-ft bed and a 2-foot work radius, and the guy ended up getting it for $1,800. And I had a kid working for me last semester that ended up buying a single wheel 250 super duty from his dad's forest service unit for $3,000 I think. Granted it was the Triton not the powerstroke, but still.

Ended up going with a heim instead of the poly bushing because of the angle of the track bar mount. Worked out well because that means there's an inch more of thread engagement and I was a little worried about how little was engaged on the poly one. Rebuilt packs with the full length AAL in the middle. Also a quick coat of paint on the 4.10 D35. Worked out to 3.25" front and rear. I'm wondering how much the rear will sag with the camper top and sleeping setup in the back as when both the old axles were in the back it sagged about an inch. But I am planning on a hidden winch at some point up front so maybe it'll all even out At any rate the eventual plan is to get some metric ton springs to compensate for the camping setup weight and the weight of a trailer, and this is a medium term solution. But the switch from 3.55 to 4.10 is astounding. Just crawling around the yard in 4 low I can feel a huge difference.

Floating Manche

The 904 is a desired transmission for classic class drag racing. It'll hold up perfectly fine to the 3.4. The only limitation would be lack of overdrive, and needing to get the flex plate neutral balanced. No overdrive can be compensated for with gearing and tire size. Also, just so you know the transmission you have will bolt directly to the 3.4 with no mods aside from rebalancing the flex plate.

For anyone curious or looking for the same info, the brackets are the same.

So I have an older rock krawler track bar and a stinky fab frame side bracket. The bar has a steinjager poly rod end on it currently because I was hoping to avoid a little bit of NVH over a heim. The issue I'm having is the bolt holes refuse to line up with the poly end. If I get one side lined up the other is about 3/8" off on the other side. I've rocked the truck every direction, rocked the steering back and forth, even used a ratchet strap (which I know is a no-no when aligning suspension stuff) and nothing gets it even close. I'm going to try a heim that I have laying around tonight, even though it has incorrect misalignment spacers. My worry is that even with the built in pivot of the heim I won't be able to get the holes lined up. Anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

Here would be said link

Haven't seen a red one. Will have to keep my eyes out for it since I commute that way for work. It's very interesting that Comanches seem to pile up in smaller areas lol. If you ever need an extra set of hands let me know.

Replaced the crappy external torx bolts for the caliper mounts with some old Toyota bolts. New front ride height. Axles stretched a bit forward, but I like the look.

Yeah I originally said I wasn't gonna go more then 2" of lift and I just got the front back on it's own weight at 3/3.5" lol. The longer I own it the more hacks and horrible fixes I find on it. Plus it wasn't a clean truck at $1500 when I bought it, so I don't feel super bad about not keeping it stock. Is his the really nice restored and lifted silver one? I know of 4 MJs around us; yours, mine, the nice silver one, and a swb burgundy one that stays over in Indian Land but I've seen over in Fort Mill a lot.

Lwb was 16 or 24. The 16 is the same dimensions as the 24 but with a shorter vent tube so you can't fill it up as much.

I've got a 16 gal lwb tank that I would give to someone that wants to do this experiment in Fort Mill SC if anyone would be interested in trying this swap.

Thanks man. I can already tell it's gonna ride better with the RE springs even with it still on jack stands. Slow and steady.

Just saw a Comanche crossing 160 this morning and thought I recognized it. Truck looks great man