coheed

Not onto the floors. They're pretty rough. The front drivers has been missing for a while now and the rear of the passengers was so rusted a few whacks with a mallet broke the spot welds. And for some reason a previous owner thought it was a great idea to make an access hole to the slave cylinder on the pass side The clutch master has leaked in the past and messed up the firewall a bit, but it looks salvageable. May not have been if I waited longer. . The pass side is also rough but from what I've uncovered so far the rockers and the frame is unscathed. I've got pans and braces from Keyparts, some AC Delco seam sealer, a few cans of Eastwood internal frame coating, por15 for the inside of the cab (may redo that later but time will tell), and some Mastercoat for the underside of the cab. I'll be rebuilding the tilt column I have and disabling the interlock since it was out of an automatic and swapping it for the non-tilt in the truck. Will also be looking into 3.5mm Bluetooth receivers since I was lucky enough to get my radio rebuild and an aux put in from Jeremy years ago.

Haven't done a whole lot with the truck this year aside from use it to go up in the mountains hiking and hauling stuff around, but with what Helene did I'm sure I won't do that for a while. So, the truck is getting torn apart for new floors currently. Before that some other small things. I decided I just didn't like the winch bumper look and swapped the factory one and the brush guard back on. Bought a hitch from krusty and 6 of the bolts holding the bumper on snapped off even with a penetrating fluid soak. Tried all the tricks; ez outs, welding nuts to the bolts, etc. Ended up just cutting the nuts out of the frame with my air hammer and holding new ones in place with a wrench while putting the bracket bolts back in. Gave the inside of the frame a coat of Eastwood internal frame coating for good measure and put anti-seize on the bolts. Installed the swaybar drop brackets I had so the bar doesn't rub the radiator. Not an ideal angle, but eventually I'll get the smaller aluminum drop brackets so the angle is better. Scored a great set of dealers wiring diagrams for the 86 model. Grabbed a set of solid diff covers on FB for cheaper than just the D30 one new. Guy bought them for his TJ and never ended up using them before he sold it. Had to do some steering stop adjusting with washers so the ZJ tie rod doesn't hit the front cover. Guess I'll need to look into steering with better clearance at some point.

No, I think it's generally accepted around here that general is just making them incorrectly. These are not lift measurements as compared to the springs that were on the truck previously, they are compared to the measurements the FSM says they are supposed to be leaving the factory with. It's just a convenient accident for some that they give you a lift.

I've been running the Wagner H6054BL for a few years now. They're xenon instead of halogen. They're a good bit brighter than the halogen versions, and you don't have to worry about any kind of different beam pattern or changing your aim. So far the earliest failure was two and a half years, not sure how many hours though. I also have a no name headlight relay harness that I swapped some factory connectors onto. The set of Hella 500s also help, but I'm thinking about swapping to some led fog lights instead.

This is with very used set of Rubicon Express 3.5" springs, the metric ton springs from General, and a zone offroad shackle (effectively 3/4" lift). It has the factory rake with this setup. The front is 3.25"ish over factory and the rear is a just over 4" unloaded. If you want it to sit level with a true 3" coil you probably won't need a shackle if the standard springs give close to what the metric ton springs do.

Last time I bought a slider window from a junkyard it was only 40 bucks. And seeing as even the CR Laurence is out of production buying a used one is the only way to get a slider now.

You could also get a set of these bumper brackets and add on tow hooks. If you can only find the brackets the harbor freight ones fit just fine. That's what I have on mine currently.

I always forget about that even though I've only had 86s.

Ah ok. That makes sense.

So, I found some parts diagrams with YJ parts listed and it gets interesting. The 88-90 catalog didn't list the gamblers as an option, however it lists the 52002971 center caps that do not fit the YJ gamblers and has the 10 hole with rivets as p/n 52003758. 91-93 parts diagram shows the gambler using p/n 52007398. Note it also differentiates the 10 hole with rivets wheel as p/n 52003758. As eaglescout kindly pointed out I have AMC caps which are p/n 8952003759. 94-96 parts diagram actually list both the 5 hole and 10 hole without rivets as the same p/n 52007398 and both use 52003759 for center caps. It seems that Jeep themselves labeled them as the same wheel.

Interesting. Thanks for digging. I've seen people talk about 15x7 versions of the gamblers before, but have seen no pictures of them. I know I've seen people reference both the OE 10 hole wheels as gamblers too, so could just be muddling of the terms. Looks like I need to pay more attention to YJ stuff for sale in hopes of finding some.

I also saw that but was thinking someone here may have more info. Both versions have a DOT stamp on the back and almost every set I've seen locally in the last few years has the JWL logos so I don't think they're from a mail Jeep. Doesn't mean they were made by the same supplier though. The maybe 3-4 sets I've seen without have been trashed and really would only be good for a trail rig. 3 of my 4 on the truck don't have a logo and at some point, I'd like all of them to match. Even better if I can find enough to have the truck and trailer all matching. I seem to remember reading years ago that the ones without the JWL logo were YJs and the ones with were TJs but it seems harder to find info like that now. The hub bore itself and the distance from the WMS to the center cap is the same, but the actual opening for the cap is about 1.5mm difference. Just enough to not be able to swap them. It works great for it. Plus, now the truck, trailer, and the porch can all have matching wheels lol.

So, I've tried googling but google is kinda garbage now. I have 2 different types of Gamblers on my truck. They have different part numbers on the back, they obviously have different castings they were made in, and they use different center caps. What's the deal with the difference and how do I find more without the JWL logo cast into the face? Bonus pic of my "hose reel"

Man, if that was a 7 5/8 i would totally get it.

Just to put more info here, my truck measures over 3 inches what the factory service manual says it should measure with four-wheel drive springs even without the aftermarket shackle. Using the method posted above mine measures 12 9/16" from the axle tube to the frame rail.

My condolences. Losing those kinds of friends is definitely one of the harder things to deal with.

I have the general spring ones listed here. With a 3/4" lift shackle it put's my lwb right at 4" over stock completely empty. With the canopy on it's a little lower than that but the carrying capacity is WAY better than the AAL I had before. It's for sure stiffer than the sagged stock leaves with an AAL but it's not out of the ordinary stiff. I've had plenty of non-truck friends ride in it and they say it just rides like an old truck. Whether you'll be level or not depends on your front spring. Mine's a very old RE 3.5", so it actually only gets the front to 3.25", but that means the truck has the factory rake to it which I prefer.

Mine is just 64" at the widest and about 45" from mount to mount. So I think you were sent the wrong one.

Just for clarification General definitely does still make a metric ton spring. They just don't make the one designed with the lift and military wrap that the original club group buy was for > https://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf-springs/jeep/comanche/ I recently put this one on my truck and with a shackle that gives about 3/4" lift I'm sitting at 4" lift over stock roughly. And that's with a long bed and a camper top. With a 800# slide in camper it's still sitting just at 3". So keep that in mind with short beds. I'm not amazed with the paint that comes on them, but have no complaints otherwise as of almost 5 months of use. How it rides unloaded With the camper top And the camper and trailer hooked up, all in relation to an old 3.5" Rubicon express front spring that rides at 3.25" ish over stock.

https://stronghandtools.com/products/hole-plug A magnetic copper spoon will make the job a hell of a lot easier.

I have the add a leafs that got me to 3.5" with a shackle I'm not gonna use any more if you're interested. They're the full length ones from a zone off-road kit I got from @scguy a few years ago. I'd let them go cheap.

SC requires the car to at least be 25 years old, and it can only be used for club activities such as shows to be registered and plated as an antique. They restrict the driving to a certain amount of mileage a year, and you can't drive the car as you regularly would. You also have to have antique insurance on the car. However, if it's over 25 you can run a year of manufacture tag. So, since both my trailer and my Comanche are 86s I got a matching set of 86 car and trailer plates off eBay and can run them. Maybe we could make a printable "club membership" card for anyone who needed it? Kinkos does laminated stuff if it needs to be official looking.

I went with Bilstein 5125's in the rear pn 33186542. For the fronts I got the 24188197 that are intended for the XJ/MJ. I'm right at 3.25" f/r and they ride much nicer than the Monroe OE spec ones I had before the lift.

Slowly digging and digging. Got the foam mostly off of the roof. Still can't figure out where a boat rack would have attached to. The entire middle is just the aluminum skin on foam, which gives no real rigidity. The outside edge has a this weird 1 1/4" quarter round to give the curve of the roof structure. Couldn't find anywhere local that sold anything similar without a massive tool set up cost. Menards sells 1 1/4" quarter round, but I'm not taking a 10 hour trip for 24' of trim. I'm gonna use the router table at work and try and replicate it as best I can out of 2"x2" since all of it is rotten. At some point a critter had burrowed tunnels through the roof foam. Not sure what would burrow into styrofoam, but I know I don't want it in my camper lol. The fold out sides are more rotten that I thought, meaning I'll need to rebuild them as well. Aiming to get the roof redone in the next few weeks as I was taking some screws out of the door frame and about a gallon of water shot out. So, I want to get the roof to a point where the frame isn't taking on water anymore.

Not a massively satisfying update but have been parts gathering all year. I've got all the panels and braces to replace the floor, along with seam sealer and paint for inside and out. Need to find some time to get that done. Also, I had been searching for about a year for a 3.4 donor. I originally was trying to find a 93 as they would have a 4L60 not the 4L60e, but that proved nigh impossible. That's when I saw @dasbulliwagen post in the pub about values on his parts cars. I went up and checked the car out and we got it to run momentarily on starting fluid as the fuel pump is most certainly dead. We arranged the sell and now I've got the Camaro at the house. It was cool to meet another longtime member in person and get to see a truck I've been reading about for years now. The plan is to thin the wiring of all unnecessary stuff and make a stand-alone harness to control the 3.4 and the 4L60e. The car came with a set of Pacesetter headers that I'll see if I can use and some aftermarket radiator fans. Which is nice since I won't have to buy any. There's a little funky wiring here and there, but overall the car seems in great shape. I nabbed a ZJ NP242 with less than 100k on it for $100 and bought a Novak adapter so it'll bolt to the back of the 2wd 4l60e. I've also bought a metric ton of seals to change on the 3.4. I've got a long trip out to Oregon this year to visit family and my daily and mom's car need a good bit of work done to them, not to mention stuff on the house that needs done, but I'm aiming to get all of this accomplished by the end of the year.