MariaManche

new drums, hardware, and brake lines. 4.56 ratio. still has the swivel point for the rear brake proportional valve.

Recently dragged home this 195* Willys M38. Hoping to start on this project next summer and I thought it would be neat for the Comanche Club to decide how it is built. The poll feature only allows for so many questions, so the first round of polling will be for Engine, Trans, And T-Case. More will follow as progress is made and parts are collected. Right now, it is a blank slate. I removed the body and built a roll around body cart for it. There was no engine, transmission (t90) is on the workbench and is in bad shape, transfer case is still attached to the trans. The good.. Frame is extremely solid. Body is somewhat solid. Needs some floor panel and rocker work. Military Version (Beefier Frame?) Axle gearing both seem to be healthy The bad.. No title No engine T90 transmission is in bad shape

I tried creating a new topic, and I do not see options to create a poll? Can you send me a snip of where i find this feature?

Thanks for all the unput guys! It would be cool if there was a voting system on here and the ComancheClub forum could literally decide how this is built. I think I am on the hunt for a 4.3!

Dragged this beauty out of a farmer's field... The bad: no engine t90 trans is in rough shape no title or previous life information The good: Frame is extremely solid Body has cool patina that I would like to somewhat preserve. The plan: I have no idea.... I am open to community members input on how I should build this thing. Step 1 - is figuring out what drivetrain I want to steal. I will probably keep the original dana 44 and dana 25 axles.

Comanche is under surgery this winter. I hope to have this 8.8 installed before spring! Also, I dragged home another project.... not sure which direction it is going to go. 1950 willys m38.

Well, she didn't win best "Cherokee" (no MJ class) in the show, but I was just super stoked to get it back together and drive it 60 miles down the road.

New Starter is in, and Driver side floorboard is done. My advice for someone thinking about doing their floor pans is; Make sure your floor is actually in need of a full replacement. If not, just cut out the bad areas and replace with new. Buy a quality floor pan. Self-taping screws are a huge help to get everything snug. On the passenger side, I will just be cutting out the rusted-out portion and replacing. For now, I am going to get the truck back together, take it to a local jeep show (Shared in Southeast adventure planning), and put some miles on it. This method of matching the transmission tunnel shape worked great. Fasten the new pan to the tunnel with sheet metal screws, cut the pan to desired shape with cut off wheel, and then use a small reciprocating saw (with the new pan being the guide) to cut the tunnel to the exact fitment of the pan.

Slowly but surely. the C2C panel has been a lot of work to get fitted correctly.

Coheed, Yes, I cut the spot welds from the inside of the fender. This got a little "hairy" due to that thin sheet metal and not being able to fit my drill/spot weld drill bit. I just used a small cut off wheel and basically cut a shallow "X" into each spot weld. Then used a chisel/hammer to pop them free. I will take a better picture tonight and share it with you. My next step is to paint the body surface with weldable primer, drill out holes for spot welds in the patch piece, paint the patch piece with weldable primer, and then tack her in place.

Patch Panel #1 ready to be welded in place. Question. Is that black trim on the front fender, door, and front of bed stock? Does not appear to be and the more I look at it, the more I don't like it.

More floor work. Trying to do the most professional job I possibly can.

I know anyone following this build thread is tired of hearing about mice nest…. But i just can’t seem to get rid of them. Worked on the driver side floor tonight and found a huge nest in the uniframe. This does reassure me that I made the right decision to replace the floor pans even if they seem “acceptable” to most.

Thanks for the advice! I cleaned up the stud with a wire brush on a die grinder and sprayed a liberal amount of Kroil on the top and bottom side. I’ll see if she breaks tomorrow after work.