Manche757

Smat move. I am sure you will be glad to have it all behind you. It would be interesting to learn what else he does

This pic of the bathroom box is more fun than a Rubik's cube. I can not see all cables coming in to the box, but what I see looks like it has not been molested but a ground fault interrupter added. The GFIC can give false readings if grounded to neutral but they still give you protection by tripping quicker. Can you get a pic that shows the conductors in each of the 4 cables feeding from the top? One will be the hot line and the others feed off of it. There could be 2 circuits there but don't think so from what I see. You should use a plastic crevice tool on your shop vac to scrap and clean the plaster out of the box. It will cause rust, especially in a bathroom with shower.

This pic might win some prize. The black cable on the side was run later. I can not see all that goes in there. I count 10 conductors and no grounds. Can you spread the wires and take another pic? I can not tell if any cables enter from the left. The red conductors are probably for dual hot lines for 3 way and 4 way switches that control the same lights and are part of 14/3 ga cables with no ground. There will be black, red, and white conductors in the same cable. Monkey man has worked in this box. The junctions and taping is too sloppy.

Got a pic of the white wires you saw in the attic?

Got a pic of the white wires you saw in the attic?

If you open the oven door, there should be a plate on the oven that is hidden when the door is closed. If there is a drawer for pots and pans below the oven, the plate may be there. Power to larger appliances and machinery is expressed differently. The plate should give the model and serial number. Additionally you should see something like: 120/240 V, AC only, 8.5 KW @ 208 V. Homes in the US have single phase current. Business and commercial places have 3 phase that allows for more flexibility and efficiency. With a little simple algebra you can convert to amps. KW is kilowatt and equals 1000 watts. Amps X volts = Watts. (KW X !000) / volts = amps. In this case: (8.5 X 1000) / 208 = 40.87 amps which is the power required

Italians!

I would recommend that you run a new cable to kitchen outlets. 12/2 with ground on a 20 amp breaker for a 120 volt line. I would also recommend that you run a 12/2 with ground to the dishwater on a 20 amp breaker for 120 volt line on a dedicated circuit. You were looking to power a microwave. Is this a 1100 watt counter top unit or a bigger one that will be mounted where your range hood is? If a counter top 1100 watt one, you don't need a dedicated outlet. Your refrigerator should be on a dedicated 20 amp circuit also. As regards ground fault interrupter circuits, you have a choice of a breaker in the panel or an outlet at the box. The ones at the box have limited life. When they fail, usually they stop providing power (a good thing) rather that losing the capacity to interrupt the circuit (a bad thing.) The new circuits are worthwhile even if you were not adrift in feedback to (energized) ground.

Amps are not listed on a plate on the back of the stove or anywhere? No watts either (which would be a large number?) Why don't you google the electrical draw for your stove. If you happen to have an owner's manual, check it.

Remove the screw inside box at back and check to see it wire is one of the two loose ones under the sink

Loosen the screw and remove the wire from the box. Tug on it. Does the wire under the sink move? If so, pull the wire out from the box and replace the screw.

Did you see this above?

Your drier should be on a 30 amp circuit. Most kitchen stoves draw 40 - 50 amps. If less that 50 amps, the circuit should be on 8ga wire. As it approaches 50 amps, it may be on 6ga. If your stove draws more than 50 amps, 6 ga, 50 amp circuit is required. it looks like your stove circuit is seriously under sized and a fire hazard. Given the time period that he house was built, built in ovens were fashionable with separate built in stove tops. Those would have been on separate circuits with each drawing less power. Chances are when someone remodeled your kitchen, they pulled one of those lines to your stove outlet. Check the plate on the back of your stove for rating. The 220 breaker that you don't know what it is hooked to may be the other kitchen oven/burner line.

The two loose white wires may be hooked to the grounding lugs on the boxes. Wiggle the loose end and look for movement at the box end.

What are the amp ratings for your 220 circuits? I can not tell frim the pics of the panel.