NickyV

I saw your comment about that earlier in the thread, @eaglescout526! Smart feature.

Just found this thread. I’ve had PS for a while with no pressure switch. I was thinking this would be an easy part to come by, but it sounds like no? Is the problem that no one makes the switch with the correct thread/pressure range? These are a pretty basic switch otherwise. I’ve been running my PS with no switch and no problems, but now that I have A/C, seems like it could be a good safety feature to have.

Revisiting a topic I've posted about before. I've been trying to get rid of a chirping sound related to my belts for quite a while. I have A/C and Power Steering on a 1987 2.5L. Pretty sure I've ruled out a lot of the possible culprits. I have the correct brackets and I've used spacers to get all the pulleys into slightly better alignment. But I still haven't been able to completely solve the issue. Currently, I have my belt a bit tighter than factory spec. It's sitting between 160-180. The result is that the belt will chirp a bit when the engine is cold, but then it will go away after running for about 5 mins. But I'm worried that I'm putting strain on my components by running the belt that tight. So... Is it OK to run my belt that tight long term? I know that the FSM says 140-160, but maybe there is some collective wisdom out there that going over 160 is fine? What about these Gatorbacked/Helicog belts? I've heard these can do wonders. But from my research, it seems like the only way to get these now is as NOS and I'm having trouble tracking one down at the moment. I still haven't ruled out that I need to source the correct pulley wheel. I'm running a pulley wheel off of a 4.0 (5300 2909). The pulley wheel that I'm supposed to have is 5300 3805, but I have not been able to find one of those.

A Cricut! I had been looking at that as a possible solution. I love details like this.

I recently had the entire dashboard and HVAC box out (working on adding A/C). While it was out, I did something similar to @Pete M. With rubber gloves on, I reached through the fresh air hole and spread black RTV around the base of the water dam thing that's supposed to channel water around and out the side. I also used the black RTV on any hole I could find going between the cab and outside. Put grommets in the holes where the HVAC box mounts to the firewall and RTV'd both sides. Pulled the fuse box, cleaned it and when putting it back in, I RTV'd the gasket. RTV all over the antenna plug, etc... I tested by running water through cowl channel. Think I did a pretty good job. But I think what might actually make the biggest difference is I drilled a hole through the top of the wheel well, right underneath where the blower goes. When it rains, water pools up against the blower motor seal. Any tiny imperfection at the base of that seal and it's going to get through... unless it has a place to go.

Great job on the font and graphics! What did you use for the lettering? And is it also backlit?

Check your DMs!

I will be paying attention!

This is extremely exciting. Can't wait to hear more about this! I've been poking around inside an extra RX-model that I have, but it sounds like you know a lot more about this than I do. I totally understand that the tape player will be useless to many, but I like the idea of being able to play tapes. But to each their own! All-in-all, it would be SO awesome, if you (or anyone) could figure out how to get the LCD (or a replacement LCD) to display custom information -- even if it just said something simple like "AUX."

To make a long story short, I'm installing A/C on my 2.5L 1987 (Renix), and I'm really hoping to get this done by the end of the coming weekend. But now I'm a bit stuck, because I'm missing one crucial piece: The lower rear alternator bracket. It's shaped like a boomerang. Part number 5300 4388. I see a few on e-Bay, but I'm already way over budget on this and none will get here in time. But here is my question: Do I actually need this precise part? I'm thinking I can fabricate my own solution. I'm thinking I can use an L-shaped Unistrut bracket or something. I can see that there is a pivot point in the bracket, but based on what I'm seeing in the parts manual I don't think that is actually utilized in the MJ/XJ setup... I think that's only maybe used in the YJ, which uses the same bracket. Any and all help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I appreciate all the advice. I’m just going to order new bolts. Maybe I’ll need them. Maybe I’ll just want to use freshies. Does anyone know much about the one 4.52” bolt that the parts manual calls for? That’s the only one I’m having trouble finding online.

Lol. I definitely didn't read the parts manual closely enough. It literally says I need five of the 3.75", one of the 4.52" and the rest are "as required," which would be four. And that is exactly what it looks like under my hood too.

Thanks. I gathered that things changed in the HO years. But I've also read that at some point around 1987, they started using torque-to-yeild bolts. Really want to make sure I do it right!

I'm looking at doing my head gasket. Trying to figure out which bolts I need. It's a 1987 2.5L. I'm not seeing any kits online specifically for the 2.5L, and based on the 1987 parts manual, it's not entirely clear to me how many I need with studs vs without studs. It just says "AR" or "use as required." But I'd like to replace them all. Pretty sure I need 10 total, but can anyone tell me with certainty how many I will need of #10, #9 and #8 to replace all of them?

Thanks @eaglescout526 and @AZJeff. All this makes sense.