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I run TrueTracs in my Jeeps that are mostly street oriented. You never know they're there. The Jeep just handles snow and ice better. And there's no clutches to worry about so it lasts forever. Just don't put in gear oil that has limited slip additive. It messes with the helical gears in the TrueTrac and reduces how effective it is. The limited slip additive is for clutch style (OEM style) limited slips. It should let you do a nice dual tire burnout. If you're doing serious rock crawling where you lift tires off the ground, a selectable locker is a better choice. Auburn Gear makes one that's a lot less effective than true lockers. I had one and I'm glad I got rid of it. I put in an Eaton Detroit E-Locker instead and was much happier.

The 8.8 isn't really an upgrade over a Dana 44. Not by much anyway. You can upgrade the 44 easily enough. Weld on a good truss that reinforces the center section. You can put in a locker with 32 or even 35 spline shafts. You can swap on disc brakes too.

Over the last couple of weeks I upgraded the sound system. Mostly to get Bluetooth and a backup camera. I found an upgrade subwoofer that replaces the one in the center console. And this afternoon, I managed to get the GMRS antenna installed. I still have to run the wire to the front and put an end on. I found a bracket on fleabay that lets me put the Midland MTX275 under the steering wheel. You can almost see in the previous picture where the remote plug for the microphone is. Down to the right of the switches. The microphone mount is on its way.

If you have access to a dial bore gauge, you can check the condition of the cylinder walls. If you have really worn cylinders, you should consider a full rebuild with an over bore. I'm assuming you're doing a full rebuild on the head. Or at least a valve job. New camshaft and lifters may be worth it. Since you're ¾ of the way there.

Another good year is 1965. First up is a Corvette. Last year of the Rochester fuel injection, first year of disc brakes. Of course, a new Shelby GT350 fastback would have to be in the list A year after the movie Goldfinger came out, the Aston Martin DB5 is sill a cool car For daily driving duties, a Jeep Wagoneer with the AMC 327 V8 will do nicely For truck duties, a Ford F250 camper special would be my go-to.

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/arvada-1988-jeep-comanche-long-bed-4wd/v5EpPF6wosCo6G5RFm9gsR

You'll probably need a new carrier unless he used thick cut 4.10s. But you'll have a locker to sell and you likely can get better than $200 for it.

Nice. It's great when it works out like that.

Unfortunately, there aren't any OEM parts houses with people who can actually help. If you're lucky enough to actually talk to a human being at one of those stores, youll find they're little more than monkeys who fill in forms on their computer screen and tell you what it says. Much like the kids behind the counter at the local parts stores these days. Once in a while you find one who can tell the difference between a brake rotor and a carburetor, but they're less and less common. What specifically are you looking for?

There are some scewups on jlwrangerforums.com but if you ask a reasonable question over there some people will give you the right answer. I'd suggest leaving off the preamble anout not being able to find useful help. The goofballs will jump in if you come out swinging like that. Just post up details of your JL (especially the axles under it) and what you're looking for. State your question clearly and you can get a decent answer most of the time. If you don't know exactly what axles you have, ping me with pictures of the center diff covers and I can help. And as far as factory axles. You can call them Dana 30, Dana 35, or Dana 44 and people will know what you mean. The technical names for them are: M186 (front Dana 30), M200 (rear Dana 35), M210 (front Dana 44), and M220 (rear Dana 44).

The SJ wagoneer didn't change the basic body design since the original body came out as a 1963 model. A bunch of parts were compatible all the way through 1991. The rear window wiper was definitely an afterthought.

Get the engine nice and warm in the driveway preferably where the electric fan is kicking on. Then shut it off. Pop the hood and try to turn the mechanical fan with your (gloved) fingers. It should be hard to turn. Much harder than when cold.

I was getting overly frustrated with the electronic nannies in my Subaru Outback so I sold it off. Used the money to pick up this 2006 LJ. Under 130K miles on it. Really well optioned for a TJ/LJ. 4.0/automatic, 6 disc in dash CD player, subwoofer, air conditioning that blows really cold. The engine is a bit anemic so I'll start with a tune-up. I'm also going to probably swap out the original control arms with their 20 year old bushings for some upgraded arms, and maybe do steering joints. If it needs it, ball joints too. The 42RLE automatic has some shortcomings so I'll likely add a transmission cooler. ATS diesel sells an upgrade rebuild and they're local so if it fails, I'll go that route. And if the transmission has to come out, it'll go back in with an Advance Adapters Rubicrawler to get a good doubler for crawling. But mostly, I'm going to set it up to be a daily driver. At least for a while. It'll stay on the 31s with stock suspension.

Just picked up this well optioned LJ yesterday. It's pretty clean with low miles for its age.

There are some cleaners that advertise having no acids or harsh chemicals. Those may be a good option.

Seems like every time this comes up in my playlist, someone bothers me in the middle of it. But today, I managed to get through all 17 minutes without interruption.

For the exterior wash, I may use soapy water. Or just water. It's important to have some pressure to blow the gunk out. But too much pressure can fold fins over and that causes blocked airflow. You need a Goldilocks "just right" flow when washing. As far as inside the block, I haven't done a ton of research on the various options and products. Most of my block cleaning has taken place while at the machine shop for a rebuild.

I will add my x2 to the proper cleaning of the cooling system, as well as having a good quality fan clutch and mechanical fan. I will add that you should also wash the outside of the radiator between the fins. And ensure that most or all of the fins are straight. If you have debris or damage blocking air moving through the radiator, nothing else you do will keep you from overheating. That's the low cost step you should take first every time. If you're still overheating after that, then you have to do more diagnosing.

Probably a short throw shifter. And an external slave at least.

AX15 to rebuild. Two Renix 4.0s to choose from. Ready to start the first real phase of the build.

Engines need some heat in them to operate most efficiently. Having too much cooling can have an adverse effect on how well the engine operates. You can lower the fuel efficiency and even lose a little power if you're running too cold. If the engine gets the coolant up to normal operating temperature (around 210°) and stays there, you really don't need more cooling than that.

If it's together with red locktite, you never need to take it that far apart ever again.

No real progress this summer. It's been too hot. The silver donor has been mostly processed. It's back in the yard for storage, many parts sitting in tubs in the cab, waiting. If it wver cools down, I'll get the garage cleaned and organized. First steps will be to take care of the big pile of axle parts. I'm going to strip them down to nothing. Then build them up from the ground up. New everything. Gears, lockers, high steer knuckles, truss with XJ/MJ mounting points for the long arms to bolt to. After that, the AX15 gets torn down and rebuilt. Once those are done and the parts pile is more manageable, the truck will get wheeled into the shop and any body work will begin.

Normally I only use blue. But the steering column is an exception. It will never have to be disassembled again. So red is appropriate in this specific case.