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Everything posted by derf
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I bought one of the generic cheap ones off RockAuto for the 258 in my CJ7. It fit well enough but it had a different size drain plug than factory. I had to get a different Fumoto valve.
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1995 for me. YJ with the 4.0 and AX15 for Jeeping Buick Roadmaster wagon for daily driving. Came with the LT1 Chevy Implala SS for more B body fun. Corvette ZR1. 405 HP in the 90s was pretty impressive. Manual transmission, naturally. Ram 3500 diesel extended cab for hauling duties.
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I was able to wrap up everything and take it for a mostly successful test drive. Steering and suspension in general are much improved. Up to the level you'd expect from a CJ7. So not great compared to my 2025 Subaru. But it did 55 MPH down the road without any trouble. I'm getting an intermittent check engine light from the Howell TBI. There is also a noise coming from the transmission or transfer case as I'm actually moving. Doesn't really change with speed. But it's there. I'm also hearing some pronounced valvetrain noise. Likely some collapsed lifters as the noise comes and goes. So a camshaft swap is in the cards. I'm pretty sure I don't trust it enough for a longer trip. And I have to get ready for my vacation road trip next weekend. So a wheeling trip is out for now. But it's running and driving more or less now.
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SOLD-New JKS sway bar disconnects JKS2001 for 4-6" lift
derf replied to Airborne Janitor's topic in For Sale
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Maybe. I don't want to commit just yet.
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Pretty much done fixing what the DSPO screwed up. The upper swaybar end links have a special bolt that is a little bit of a hassle. But replacing the under size hex bolts that were flopping around is worth it. Got everything torqued. I still need to grease the tie rod ends and ball joints. But we'll see about taking it for a drive tomorrow.
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Too much weight. Subarus aren't very capable tow rigs.
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Typically they use the same wire. The idiot light is an on/off switch inside the sensor on the engine and the dash has a light bulb. The gauge sender just varies resistance and the gauge reacts to that. Same plug in the cluster and same connector on the engine.
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You're just trying to be an enabler, aren't you? Trouble is, I can't flat tow the Subaru or put it on a tow dolly. And a car hauler would exceed the tow rating on the truck.
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I'm going through that area in a couple of weeks. Too bad the Subaru won't have enough to tow that back with me...
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Sometimes you just need a little bagpipe in your rock 'n roll to start your Monday.
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That's a good name for this project....
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I decided to go ahead and fix everything in the suspension and steering. I did ball joints and all the tie rod ends, along with wheel bearings when I refurbished the front axle a while back. The steering shaft had loose joints. The steering gear box was loose as well. The rubber bushings were beyond shot so the axle would move side to side. Turns out, the steering stabilizer used a plate to mount the shock that stuck between the spring and the axle housing. Because of that plate, the pin on the spring didn't align in the hole on the spring perch. Since it came with a Rough Country lift kit, I decided to swap out the crappy springs and shocks while I was doing bushings. I dropped the steering gear box and replaced it along with the steering shaft. I upgraded to a MORE steering box mount that adds strength. The rear springs were swapped out without a ton of trouble beyond the standard bolt rusted to the sleeve in the bushing in the fixed end. In the end, 3 of the 4 required a Swazall to get them out. And they got new 9/16" bolts at all 4 corners. The shackle bolts all came out fine. I've been getting the front end swapped out but it's hot in the afternoon which slows progress. I got the front springs in but I need to get them properly torqued to the axle. And I need to get the steering hooked back up. While the steering box was out, I mounted the Warn winch blate base pieces to the frame. The steering box blocks one of the nuts. Good progress overall but a bit more to go before it's back on the road.
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I can look at my 2 parts donors. Both 1993s. I could probably give you a motor and arm if you like.
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I've been on an obscure 80s kick off and on for a while.
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It works well enough. Very small bits are hard to line up right. But it does give life to worn out bits.
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I've had JKS on several Jeeps. Happy with all of them. I would shoot some grease in them when greasing steering joints every oil change. That seemed to be enough.
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Thing about red is that it holds better but the people who recommend it aren't the ones who have to maintain the brakes. Anything I will want to take apart, I seriously question whether to use red or not.
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To rebuild or swap, 4L60e advice needed.
derf replied to coheed's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I would think it's difficult to find a 60° GM bellhousing adapter for the TDI but a SBC pattern is much easier. So I would just do the basic rebuild on the one you have and run it while you save up for the TDI swap. Change transmissions then, whether it's a 4L60 or AX15. And if you stick with the automatic, you may even be able to get a 700R4 and skip the electronics altogether.
