derf

The SJ wagoneer didn't change the basic body design since the original body came out as a 1963 model. A bunch of parts were compatible all the way through 1991. The rear window wiper was definitely an afterthought.

Yes please. PM sent.

Get the engine nice and warm in the driveway preferably where the electric fan is kicking on. Then shut it off. Pop the hood and try to turn the mechanical fan with your (gloved) fingers. It should be hard to turn. Much harder than when cold.

I was getting overly frustrated with the electronic nannies in my Subaru Outback so I sold it off. Used the money to pick up this 2006 LJ. Under 130K miles on it. Really well optioned for a TJ/LJ. 4.0/automatic, 6 disc in dash CD player, subwoofer, air conditioning that blows really cold. The engine is a bit anemic so I'll start with a tune-up. I'm also going to probably swap out the original control arms with their 20 year old bushings for some upgraded arms, and maybe do steering joints. If it needs it, ball joints too. The 42RLE automatic has some shortcomings so I'll likely add a transmission cooler. ATS diesel sells an upgrade rebuild and they're local so if it fails, I'll go that route. And if the transmission has to come out, it'll go back in with an Advance Adapters Rubicrawler to get a good doubler for crawling. But mostly, I'm going to set it up to be a daily driver. At least for a while. It'll stay on the 31s with stock suspension.

Just picked up this well optioned LJ yesterday. It's pretty clean with low miles for its age.

There are some cleaners that advertise having no acids or harsh chemicals. Those may be a good option.

Seems like every time this comes up in my playlist, someone bothers me in the middle of it. But today, I managed to get through all 17 minutes without interruption.

For the exterior wash, I may use soapy water. Or just water. It's important to have some pressure to blow the gunk out. But too much pressure can fold fins over and that causes blocked airflow. You need a Goldilocks "just right" flow when washing. As far as inside the block, I haven't done a ton of research on the various options and products. Most of my block cleaning has taken place while at the machine shop for a rebuild.

I will add my x2 to the proper cleaning of the cooling system, as well as having a good quality fan clutch and mechanical fan. I will add that you should also wash the outside of the radiator between the fins. And ensure that most or all of the fins are straight. If you have debris or damage blocking air moving through the radiator, nothing else you do will keep you from overheating. That's the low cost step you should take first every time. If you're still overheating after that, then you have to do more diagnosing.

Probably a short throw shifter. And an external slave at least.

AX15 to rebuild. Two Renix 4.0s to choose from. Ready to start the first real phase of the build.

Engines need some heat in them to operate most efficiently. Having too much cooling can have an adverse effect on how well the engine operates. You can lower the fuel efficiency and even lose a little power if you're running too cold. If the engine gets the coolant up to normal operating temperature (around 210°) and stays there, you really don't need more cooling than that.

If it's together with red locktite, you never need to take it that far apart ever again.

No real progress this summer. It's been too hot. The silver donor has been mostly processed. It's back in the yard for storage, many parts sitting in tubs in the cab, waiting. If it wver cools down, I'll get the garage cleaned and organized. First steps will be to take care of the big pile of axle parts. I'm going to strip them down to nothing. Then build them up from the ground up. New everything. Gears, lockers, high steer knuckles, truss with XJ/MJ mounting points for the long arms to bolt to. After that, the AX15 gets torn down and rebuilt. Once those are done and the parts pile is more manageable, the truck will get wheeled into the shop and any body work will begin.

Normally I only use blue. But the steering column is an exception. It will never have to be disassembled again. So red is appropriate in this specific case.

Sorry. Got distracted. I can take the arm off the red Jeep and send it if you want it.

Actually, the lock ring is under the steering wheel. You'll also want a steering wheel puller... https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25200-Steering-Wheel-Puller/dp/B000CMHKP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Mu56UPU2CJwiDX0Qtj3U87t_zQ29xRJwPExPdhnSuQVA1t5fy-49o5rtz_YoApSUT5arpiCcMPRaav8mgwOo8An6ZNXedQwcqCYR-tm4AHipavGORL03XsSdfmsWCyX4uwS6RkO5LoGWK-C10j1l-DnFBKkaACs02hshexndms6YCdoVK6eXS3q3yrZeKhn9Mq_d2KcCB-0XSo66jOYAIw.N_phbGg4qRzUzPKEBwXmFP5Y4YexQJpcIh9jsczImx8&dib_tag=se&keywords=gm+steering+wheel+puller&qid=1786037173&sr=8-6 You can google "GM steering column rebuild" and I bet there are some videos showing the process.

Common problem on GM tilt columns. The fix is a little tedious. And you need 2 specialty tools. Both not expensive. Basically you tear it apart all the way. Then the last piece is where the loose bolts are. Add some red locktite and tighten them up. Then put the whole thing back together. There's a lock ring on the steering wheel and you need a tool to press the wheel down enough to get it out. https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648466-Steering-Wheel-Plate/dp/B004KED7RU The pivot pins in the tilt joint need a special tool to make pulling them easier. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80652-Steering-Remover/dp/B000Q6JBL2

Second round. 1970 For daily driving duties, an Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser with the Rocket 455. A GMC K10 with the 396 big block for truck duty Of course, a Jeep needs to be in the mix. A CJ6 with the Dauntless V6. A GTO with the Ram Air 455 for cruising. And for top down fun, a Corvette convertible with the 454.

Not really. I can't quite see inside and there may be something open underneath. But there isn't an exposed hole.

As an aside, I'm planning the stereo for my MJ build. I'm using the @boxyjeep 6.5" speaker mounts for the rear and I'll put some dedicated woofers instead of a full on subwoofer. The fronts will be quality full range speakers.

Yeah, I don't trust people who have a vested interest in selling me their products. You don't need much to get decent sound out of the Infinity speakers. After all, it's a regular cab truck. There are probably better choices that would work well. And they always recommend a much bigger wiring kit than you really need. Those have a lot more profit margin. And they're probably 2x more capable than you need for the smaller amps. 8 gauge wire is likely all you need. Without a sub, you can probably get by with 10 gauge.

How big of an amp are you planning on running? For the compact 4 channel amps at 45-50W per channel (plenty for those speakers), you can get away with a 10 gauge wire. No matter what size wire, have a fuse near the battery. I've seen people burn their car up by not having a fuse. The insulation on the wire gets cut at the firewall and it shorts out. A fuse at the battery protects you.