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About Big_Mark

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    Can Spell Comanche

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    Snohomish, WA

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  1. O.k. I went and checked, sure enough the overall depth of the unit bearings are the same (as is the depth of the stub shaft), the only difference between the unit bearing is the flange offset. My rotors are 2 7/8" deep (both) so it seems I need the 2.133" unit bearings, and to be sure the rotors are the right depth! Thanks again!
  2. Thanks OldSck88L that makes sense, I'll check the depth of the rotors, BTW on the Drivers side (short hub) the inner pad was gone all together so I suspect you are on to something here.
  3. I'm trying to get my brakes done before the weather turns to crap, rears are handled but the front is leaving my scratching my head. #1 The Axles in my Jeep were transplants from a 1999 Cherokee that's all I know about them Front Dana 30 no vacuum business Rear Chrysler 8.25 I got the calipers off and rotors off, both sides are in need of new parts, since I have it apart I decided to look into replacing the Unit bearings. Looking on Oreilys I discovered there are 2 varieties, one with a 1.91" flange offset and one with a 2.133" offset easy enough since it's all apar
  4. O.k. since we are about to start with actual cold weather I did a massive ADD workfest on the Jeep today. 1. I got the broken temp sending unit out of the head (well pushed in, will fish it out later) and installed a new one, viola my gauge is working! ALL OF MY GAUGES WORK >>>>>>MILESTONE<<<<<< 2. Screwed the filler hose bracket to the body of the bed, it was just flopping around before 3. Put my WA state plate on, hung the Montana one in the garage cause that's where old plates go! 4. Fixed the leak in my new washer bottle, had to
  5. So I swapped out the oil pressure gauge today and now the gauge is working, not sure if it's accurate but it is indicating 40Lbs pressure, I sure hope is accurate, I'll take that! Also for whatever reason my buzzer has decided to start working as well evidently instead of having new electrical issues existing ones are fixing themselves I'll take it
  6. While fighting my rear lights I did the Cruiser54 ground refresh http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 for the rear, in this case. Ultimately I ended up doing the fuel pump reground http://cruiser54.com/?p=249 in addition to that I cut the ground wire to about 10" from the cab side of the rear harness connector and grounded that the the rear "frame". Once I did that my rear harness ground issues went away.
  7. Yep the single pump with the blocked off hose works perfectly, on to other tasks!
  8. I hope they make the bulb housing, mine are in shabby condition (as are the lenses)
  9. Thanks all, I guess I'll just run it as it then, which is fine with me, one less trip to the local hardware store and I can just bolt it down and go
  10. Hi Gang, I have a question about how these pumps are supposed to be plumbed into the washer fluid line that goes to the nozzles. Here's how the PO did it. I suspect this is not the answer. In my truck I have two electrical connectors, one for each pump, and the low fluid connector (glad I installed the bulb :-D )and one rubber hose that passes up through the firewall into the wiper motor/mechanism compartment where it Tee's off to each nozzle. What it the correct way to plumb this system? I'm thinking a hose off each pump to a Tee then from
  11. I know it's a weird tip but it works. Vaseline, yup good old petroleum jelly, it's great for holding marts together, things like needle bearings in a transmission, weird little plastic parts that move against each other (high beam switch slider in wiper switch). Super handy plus it's fun to say!
  12. More headway and just in time for the endless gray season! I installed a rebuilt wiper motor and a new wiper delay switch and lever (to git rid of the last visual vestiges of Cruise Control ) also a wiper control module from Deadjeep.com I now have fully functioning wipers! I followed the wiper mechanism rebuild guide found on this site and all went well! I did go through 2 wiper control modules before getting one that worked but the gang and deadjeep.com sent out the 2nd of free of charge and no questions asked, super awesome! Last part of that system is on the way from Ebay a used, not
  13. I've gone the route of having a 302 balanced and blue printed, then did the assembly myself, however I was younger then and now I like the comfort of having some things done by folks who do it all the time. Since you're options seem limited I'd have Shop #1 do the rebuild so you can drop it off then pick it up when it's ready. No matter the route you take you will need to break it in properly as mentioned. Alternately you could get a junk yard engine (maybe? not sure what th junk yard status is like over there)
  14. Nice build thread, thanks for the part numbers and links makes life easier! Can't wait to see pics and video of you HAMMERING DOWN on the trail
  15. Ha ha Thanks guys. O.k. I made some more progress yesterday, pulled the old fuel pump and discovered why the fuel gauge didn't do anything: Evidently you need a sending unit and a float or something Thanks to mtscompany.com for having new, in stock sender/pumps shipped for $159. model # JPSU-6P4.0 shown in photo above. Then I spliced in a new fuel pump sender pigtail into the harness to unf*** the POs mess, and discovered I was out of gas as the low fuel ight came on (yea!) I added 3 gallons (what I had laying around) and the fuel level indi
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