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About Gjeep

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    Comanche Aficionado

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  1. I was surprised they didn't move the spare tire to the opposite side for RHD.
  2. I’ve never seen one in the flesh. Here’s some pics I took.
  3. I don’t know what Team Cherokee is selling now, but the ones I got from them 5 years back were Mopar, right down to the round ‘Made in Canada’ sticker. Also, early ZJ insulation said ‘Jeep’ on them. Never XJ.
  4. Team cherokee has the insulation.
  5. I gave the XJ a good wash today. Looks sharp, but there's a couple things I want to polish out before re-assembling. Just need to remove the door handles and emblems -- and I'll be set to polish, then wax away. Also started removing the old foam from the '01 XJ headliner I'm going to use. Nothing NOS out there in the land of headliners (aside from one for a '98 XJ which is the older style headliner I'm moving away from). Also got the splash guard up. I've learned to put 1/4" x 1" stainless steel washers as this helps prevent damage of rubber when removing and prevents the hole from cracking/ stretching.
  6. Got a couple things done on the XJ today...Installed under hood insulation. Also installed the 2001 XJ rear sound bar internals. Headliner to come once I recover it in agate. My original sound bar was the first gen design ('94-'98) that Jeep introduced which essentially sat on top of the headliner and was held up by the cargo area dome light ('84-'98 XJ era). I upgraded to the newer style full headliner ('99-'01) design because the speaker bar 'guts' are hidden under the one piece headliner -- and the associated cargo light matches the overhead console lighting better. Below is a photo of the first gen sound bar (not mine) and the newer one I'm work-in-progress installing. My I updated PDC labels arrived today and I placed it over the original fuse layout. Took about 5 or 6 tries to get it straight, but finally did. And now I know what's what. And lastly, my latest project is a factory overhead console that I'm installing a microphone in for hands-free calls. The little microphone bezel I'm using is from a BMW 3-series, but their OEM microphone won't plug directly into my aftermarket radio as the BMW is a 3 wire connection and my radio is a plug in 3.5mm jack. I was lucky enough to find a vendor in Germany who sells a replacement microphone that's a direct replacement fit into the BMW microphone bezel and has a 3.5mm jack needed...Now it’s just a matter of patience waiting for it to ship over here. ETA is early February. Below is a pic of my tester console...I have a NOS one that I'm going to recover agate to match the headliner and visors.
  7. They’re grizzly rims. Oem Jeep. First debut 1996 cherokee classic. Then in 97 the TJ wrangler got them.
  8. In 91 the outer rivets on those rims disappeared. I actually liked the look of the renix era eliminator rims a little better.
  9. Hey Fiatslug -- yep I've still got the black XJ. All original drivetrain aside from replacing the 0331 head back at 80K...currently it's at 430K. It's my daily runner. Back to the '97 XJ -- I've finished up the overhead console wiring. No idea how many times Jeep went back and forth over the years with a power & ground and then a power only wire for the vanity mirrored sun visors. On the 97+ XJ’s – ’97 & ’98 only had a power wire to mirror light and grounded off the metal touching the roof where the sun visor attached. Mid-year ’99-’01 Jeep was back to using power & ground for the mirror. Basically, since I used ’97 overhead wiring, I needed to add a ground and swapped the connectors to a two-plug OEM style. The ’98 ZJ 5.9L agate vanity mirrors I'll be using are a power & ground style… That’s done, but took more doing than I expected. So much for plug and play on the simple things. For the front doors, I trimmed out Boom Mat baffles to fit without excess remaining on the inner door. If I didn’t trim it, the door panel wouldn’t sit flush against the metal. This speaker baffle is supposed to keep the bass better, but main reason I did it was to protect the speaker form the elements. I’ve also been prepping the exterior black trim for paint. Though the flares, bodyside molding, and bumper ends are NOS I still paint them before mounting them up. The XJ black plastic fades out fast in the occasional California sun. I use SEM Original Trim Black. I used it on my ’01 XJ and it has lasted close to 10 years so far without and fade, flake or any touch up needed. Absolutely great stuff, but as always, proper prep is important. But…before all the trim can be installed a thorough polishing of the paint is in order, so I’ve stripped the XJ of all exterior items – mirrors, door handles, roof rack, etc. And once that’s done new emblems will be installed all around.
  10. Here's the detail on the amps -- one runs the 4 speakers and the other the sub. Super compact (1.5" x 4.25" x 6.75" ) and have had great reviews since released. PBR400x4D Rockford Fosgate Punch Compact Amplifier (100Wx4 @ 2ohm; front & rear) PBR300x1 Rockford Fosgate Punch Compact Amplifier (300Wx1 @ 1ohm; subwoofer) Working as fast as I can for a perfectionist... I've got 2 MJ's to complete after this -- '92 then '89.
  11. Not sure if your budget but there’s a molar NOS remix era radiator on ebay now.
  12. Finally, the amp set up is installed. And it took some doing...At first I thought I could attach the amp on the bracket with cables connected topside, but no luck -- too many other wires in the way. I ended up positioning myself upside-down with my head pinned to the accelerator pedal for about 45 mins getting things connected topside on the amplifiers. Took patience, but it looks clean. (FYI - that lasso of wire is a spare power line I ran from the PDC.)
  13. Normally wouldn’t post an XJ find at a wrecking yard, but no doubt this thing has maybe 70k on it. Interior is nearly showroom clean. Agate dark gray color. Carpet like new. Passenger front end hit something hard, but engine and transmission probably still good. 2wd, 4.0L.
  14. I should have trusted my gut a couple months back when I first disassembled the PDC and added relay terminals for the alarm, fog lights, etc...There were 2 extra spots that I had a feeling I'd use, but didn't tap at the time and run a wire to the interior. Sure enough I need 2 more Max fuse locations for the 2 amplifiers I'm running, 10 AWG. So I held my breath and carefully disassembled the pieces to the PDC once again. The plastic pins that hold the terminals and the various other assembly points of the PDC break easily. Got lucky again and no breakage. I'll be creating a mapping label to attach under the PDC lid so I don't forget what everything does... (There's one open/ spare Max fuse location available in the PDC and I ran a 12 AWG under the dash so I don't have to do this again!) Before to after pics below.
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