Torq_Shep

Pry carefully between the lens and the chrome surround putting inward pressure on the lens side until it pops out of the socket. You only need to get one side loose and the lens will come off. Left and right side is where the retaining sockets are, do not pry on the top or bottom sides. The lens rarely breaks. It is the chrome surround and other plastics that fall apart so when in doubt put pressure on the lens.

I personally committed to the Euramtecs they look close enough to the originals and aren't made of dust but I didn't enjoy trimming the 1/4" out of the one side.

Be aware, the factory housing are insanely fragile. Only try and take the lens off if you are checking the bulbs, do not try to pry out the whole assembly or it will break.

No problem! There were a bunch on eBay for insane prices but someone posted an XJ specific one for $50 free ship so I snagged it.

I have the entire UK set of gauges in my LHD cluster. Was a PITA to find years ago and had to have a friend in the UK buy the cluster and ship me just the gauges.

I know it's a weird part but there is a bracket that the Renix ECU mounts to. If anyone has one around I would be interested!

Got one! Thanks!

Sent you a PM.

When you check the resistance between the battery ground lug and the ground pin on the drivers headlight connection, what is your reading? It should be <1 Ohm ideally. Checking it at the battery ensures that you are including the ground path through the screw itself as well. Did you make a new ground for this or did you use an existing location?

IIRC these work by taking the headlight switch input and routing that into 1 relay for low beams and another relay for high beams. Is there a brightness issue on the driver light with high beams and low beams or just on low beams? You need to check resistance of the low beam power connection at the headlight back to the relay. Likely pin 87 on the relay connector side. You should also check to make sure that you have very close to battery voltage between the low beam power light and ground on the drivers connection.

Only 5 years later and I am contemplating this same project. I am older and lazier and have found that the very standard TM1637 Arduino displays in green are not a perfect replica for the old VFD displays but they are 100 times easier to control and are not going to require a full custom circuit board (although I might do one anyway). The 14.0 is the lowest brightness. The 14.4 is the highest brightness option I am showing (from 0-7) as anything higher than 4 is essentially the same as 4. It is "too sharp" compared to the original VFD but the size is right and the implementation time if I ever actually do this will be much much lower.

Definitely interested. I can likely find (and may even have) an XJ/MJ shift lever but I for sure do not have the lower assembly.

I don't need the whole mini-console but if you want to sell the shift boot I am interested.

Yes please. I keep trying to convince myself to do all of this myself but I would vastly prefer to just get a built one. If you do another batch of HVAC controls... I have a good RX-173, and 2x parts RX units.

I am looking for a full shifter assembly for an AX-15. My truck came with an aftermarket short throw and I want to try a factory one as I think I would prefer that. If someone has the shifter, shifter plate, and preferably shift console boot. I would be happy to buy it.