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Everything posted by Gjeep

  1. According to AAA glass for the XJ/ MJ is not longer made by Mopar or any of the aftermarket glass vendors. I've done some digging myself and haven't found anything yet. Will dig deeper tomorrow. Anyone on CC have their windshield replaced with new glass recently? Hard to believe there is nothing out there for such a long running production vehicle (XJ).
  2. A Street Comanche for sale about an hour from me. From the looks of it (and all the other cars, house, etc in the photo) it's been sitting for a good decade. Not bad though. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/ford-explorer-and-jeep/6748553974.html
  3. Gjeep


    Yes, best to use a specialty tool to not damage it though.
  4. Gjeep


    Thanks for the replies. I called a local glass shop not through AAA/ Safelite...and windshield ARE available as I thought. Should also note for any who shop through Safelite-- know their pricing is 2x $$$. They quoted me $537 Mopar glass installed and the local shop quoted $245. Both installed. Crazy...
  5. Gjeep


    I had safelite quote as well but called me back that nada is available. Fiatslug-- can you tell me the part# they quoted you. Thanks
  6. Gjeep

    Eliminator bumper color

    I wouldn't paint. I'd have it powder coated if you really want it to last.
  7. I decided when rebuilding my ’92 MJ I wanted to have a similar set up to Hornbrod using OEM parts. I got to thinking…and remembered the RHD XJ model fan set up in opposite the LHD, meaning the efan is on the passenger side and the clutch fan on the driver side. I took a chance and ordered a Mopar RHD efan. Sure enough the fan/ motor assembly is the identical part number as the LHD model, only the shroud is different. The RHD variant allowed me to mount the efan with only one modification to the upper radiator support -- drilling a mounting hole. Below are photos of the RHD Mopar efan: And as it would be installed. On the bottom side of the radiator I carved out a simple plate that mounts to the original efan/ fan shroud radiator tabs that the 2 fans can drop into. Instead of using a SPAL controller, I went with a hard-wired switch to the Renix temperature switch opening in the radiator. HO radiators already have the Renix provision in place, it’s just a matter of removing the plug. After much internet research, I went with a Facet temperature switch# 7.5007. This is from a Peugeot 205 1.9L Cooling Fan Switch (on @ 189*/off @ 170*). This was a direct fit for the Renix radiator switch hole. I used Bosch relay# 12631710726 which is a 5-pin relay with diode (for primary efan to temp switch wiring). This relay has a diode within. The diode absorbs the high voltage spike created by the collapsed magnetic field on de-energization of the coil.
  8. It doesn't fit the bends of the upper radiator support. The RHD fan does.
  9. Wasn't sure where to post this but I saw this listing on ebay yesterday...I had no idea they had made MJ specific center console cupholders. These MJ/ XJ items were sold through Jeep dealers originally (and a similar product is still being sold for XJ's aftermarket). It has the 'delete' for the XJ ebrake. Learn something new every day...
  10. Gjeep

    84-96 XJ/ MJ weatherstrip

    Selling driver and passenger side around the window/ frame weatherstripping and inner and outer door wipes. These were installed for about a month back in 2001 on my 89 MJ before I pulled it all apart again. These never saw the outdoors. Mopar new units. $60 for all + shipping. Also, Dorman repro MJ rear parking brake cable. Never used. $15 + shipping.
  11. Gjeep

    MJ specific center console cup holders

    I had a couple options I thought about other than the switch pods that I ended up going with... An on/off for the winch as a GM high beam floorboard mounted on/off switch with the winch in/out located on the center console or on the power door switch (door mounted) --- for you since you have manual windows and locks, I'd suggest a DRIVER'S SIDE rear door XJ power window switch. It has 5 wires going to the switch, which is exactly what you need and is a momentary switch -- which is also exactly what you need. You'll want to get a snipet at least of the wiring harness that goes to the switch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Rear-Driver-Power-Window-Switch-Door-Handle-/372178555721 This is an example of the part, but it is passenger side. You'll need the driver's side of it.
  12. Gjeep

    MJ specific center console cup holders

    Not for the 89, as I will be running an XJ brake in the center console on that truck. Possibly the 92 MJ once/ if I convert it back to bucket seats with a console.
  13. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    Getting to little things between holidays...Received 1/4" 5.25" speaker spacers for my front door. These are used to shim the speaker out a bit so the full window clears when lowered. Originally these spacers were round, but because of the metal stamping on the inner door I needed to square them off so they would fit properly. I also added clearance depth for the inlaid tweeter by shimming the factory speaker grille with a trimmed out factory speaker grille to mount against the door panel. I trimmed the backside cardboard only area of the door panel so the shimmed speaker would have adequate clearance and would not 'bulge' the door panel when it is installed. Basically I carved out a diameter to clear 5.25". These speaker grilles will need to be mounted with a fender washer and screw instead of the factory push-on clip.
  14. Official build thread begins on my ’92 MJ project – named ‘Son of Stink’ – before I complete my ’89 MJ project overhaul. Here’s a link to my MJOTM write up from 2012. The ’92 has been my daily driver for the past 5 years and has ran flawlessly. Currently I have about 230+K on the clock and converted it to 4wd several years back when I bought it...with an AX-15, external slave, NP231, Dana 44. Over the next couple months, I’ll be sharing my re-build-up with the forum… Phase 1 is installing a Hesco stroker with Edelbrock head, 97+ intake, Borla header, bored TB, Brown Dog motor mount brackets with factory rubber mounts, Hesco relocated CPS kit, K&N intake with S&B cone filter. I’ll be deleting the clutch and run dual 97+ XJ electric fans (LHD and RHD) on a new Mopar HD radiator. Mated to the stroker will be a NOS set AX-15 (still external slave) & NP231. While I have the engine out I’ll install a ZJ gear box and 97+ XJ washer tank, and stainless steel exhaust running a MagnaFlow cat and muffler. Next up will be bolting up a hidden winch plate and Warn 8000 winch. All this will be behind the factory bumper and air damn. Only clue there’s a winch behind the bumper will be the fairlead. I’ll be running winch controls in-cab connected to factory switch pods with custom logo overlays relating to winch controls. Phase 2 is Old Man Emu 934 springs, JKS upper and lower control arms and track bar, Metric Ton leafs, ADDCCO sway bars front and rear (a la Hornbrod’s install). New Mopar hubs, PowerStop cross-drilled discs all around, and TJ Canyon’s on 31” tires. Phase 3 will be paint and body with new bright work and trim, 97+ XJ windows, etc. I’ll post photo’s and progress as I go. Teardown starts this weekend.
  15. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    Finished the bits and pieces to my tailgate lock, but didn't have a chance to fully install it after painting. I did test it out prior to however and it works great. As with any security measure, it serves as a deterrent and teamed with a loud alarm siren, my goal is a thief give up before figuring out how to defeat the lock. Basically it's a universal power door lock actuator attached to a custom plate. The plate sits behind the tailgate handle (between the handle and the gate itself), and the actuator is tied to my power door lock system. When 'locked' the actuator rod goes through a hole I drilled on the side of the handle. I had a 'test actuator' that I actually tried to destroy for some time lifting the handle up and down hard to break it-- and no dice, it did what I was hoping-- didn't budge or show any signs of distortion or damage. Here's some photo's of the components...
  16. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    Had an hour or so today to finish shaping the overhead console. I pulled the headliner out of the truck to reference the shape as I sanded away on the plastic. Came out well and I'll be covering it, the headliner, and the visors before I put it back in — factory gray color. Also completed the new transmission cover-plate using an AW4 column shift plate (thanks MeanLemons) that gave me an opportunity to drill a simple 4" round hole in it that's perfect for my Hurst 5-speed shifter to fit into.
  17. Gjeep

    Seat Bracket Power to Manual

    It'll be a chore to upgrade to power seats '-86-'94 style seats. The '95+ seats as mentioned power to manual is easy. It's just a seat track swap, though you will need to adapt the seat track/ floorboard to accomodate the newer style seats. For what it's worth, the older bucket seats are a hell of a lot more comfortable than the newer ones. I daily drive an '01 XJ with heated leather seats and they are no where near as comfortable to me as the older XJ/ MJ bucket seats.
  18. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    Didn't accomplish a whole lot on the MJ this weekend other than kicking off some projects. I started the tear-down and write up on the full window upgrade as it seemed a few were curious to see it done. Pulled everything out of the doors and cleaned them up. POR-15'd the interior floor board over the seam sealer entirely yesterday, then primered it today in preparation for factory color paint and clearcoat. Also started a new overhead console for the MJ. I short-cutted it years back when I first got the truck with a stubby console. Never really liked it, but it had the temp and compass that I was going for. Finally getting around to a full overhead console from a very sanded and cut down XJ console from that era, teamed with an '84 Chry-co minivan sourced end cap. Lots more to do on this...
  19. Snapped a couple pics of the main conversion parts... The 2" x 6" adapter plates I made...the smaller holes with the nuts on the backside fasten to the Beijing regulator and the larger holes to the US glass. Next is what mounts into the glass and is sandwiched by the bolts. The 97+ XJ uses what is on the left to mount the regulator to the glass (a metric bolt), the older XJ's use this torx bolt which is what I will be mounting into the adapter plate. I chose this bolt because it has a more secure mount into the plate (look close at the photo of the bolt on its side...there's a lip on it). And finally there are photos of the Beijing regulator. This is a single side regulator that I took front and back side photos of.
  20. New Tokico rear shocks. Have always run tokico on my factory height vehicles. Best handling by far in my opinion. $70 for the pair + shipping. 91/ 92 MJ column shift gauge cluster. 166K. $25 + shipping.
  21. Gjeep

    Wiper and blower motors

    Yes the wiper motor is the same except the connector plug, but the blower motor changed in 97. Not sure if it will fit, but I can tell you the older blower motor has a better gasket (housing to blower motor) and over all quality feel that the newer one does not.
  22. I’m not a fan of the 97+ XJ door panels. Too much plastic. I wanted to keep my older style vinyl panels but have the newer full windows. I started this project expecting and measuring door dimensions and depths to put a 97+ power window regulator in an older door shell. Lots of precise holes to drill and shims to place. I still have all that detail if anyone is interested. While researching the web for a similar conversion back in 2003 I came across an interior photo of a Beijing XJ and it seemed they were using the older style door shells. I took a gamble and hired a Chinese exporter and purchased a couple power regulators to play with. They were an immediate bolt-on to the older style door shell. No new holes or sims would be needed. I also noticed the build materials of these were much better that the plastic tracked regulators Jeep was making for the 97+ XJ. Though the Beijing regulator did have 2 mounting holes for the glass, I was surprised they weren’t a match for the US XJ glass. So, I fabbed a simple adapter plate to mate everything together. To complete the swap of the new style full windows, I went to a wrecking yard and pulled all the necessary window channel weather stripping and inside/ outside window wipes. I noticed the newer XJ had a channel on the front side of the larger window. I took placement measurements and then cut several out, driver and passenger side. It took all of drilling out 2 spot welds and cutting the top of the channel where it met at the mirror corner. As a side note, the 97/ 98 XJ had a 2 piece channel weather stripping, then it went to one piece in the later years. Basically, if your MJ’s existing channel rubber is good, you can pull just the front channel rubber for your truck. I should mention that I fully tested this install way back when and the window had no issues withOUT the front channel, but I chose to install it. I’ll be doing a full write up in the next couple weeks when I do this conversion on my 92 MJ and will post it on both the build thread and as a DIY article.
  23. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    Yep, I saw that earlier today. Will do, but I’m about a week or so out from getting this done.
  24. Gjeep

    Son of Stink

    I’ve never looked at adapting the manual regulator to the full window. My guess is an adapter plate can be used to bolt up the full window. The Beijing XJ never had a manual option on the 2500 model. I could be wrong but I think the older XJ/MJ had a single attaching point on the regulator to the window. I will say I also cut the front window channel support bracket off a 97+ XJ from both the driver and passenger door for full window channel support of the larger window. The channel extends to the speaker opening but doesn’t interfere. It’s not necessary but I though it was a good idea.