Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Gjeep

  1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-NEW-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-84-96-Maroon-red-Full-Center-Console-OEM/283516749045?hash=item4202ea44f5:g:MZ4AAOSwEm9dA~ct
  2. That's a 2 door XJ rear seat area ash tray option delete. It goes near the cup holder of the rear seat area. 2 door only again.
  3. Yep, the XJ had in the early days a tow hook in the rear as well.
  4. Spacers sold.. XJ/ MJ is 5x4.5"
  5. Never installed these. Provide about 1.5-1.75" of lift. I decided to keep the 934 coils instead. $125 shipped. I'm located in CA.
  6. Nice starting place. Clean truck, just know it's a short bed.
  7. I just had new mopar glass installed yesterday. Perfect fit and did not cut the metal tabs but obviously did remove the plastic clips.
  8. Yes, best to use a specialty tool to not damage it though.
  9. Thanks for the replies. I called a local glass shop not through AAA/ Safelite...and windshield ARE available as I thought. Should also note for any who shop through Safelite-- know their pricing is 2x $$$. They quoted me $537 Mopar glass installed and the local shop quoted $245. Both installed. Crazy...
  10. I had safelite quote as well but called me back that nada is available. Fiatslug-- can you tell me the part# they quoted you. Thanks
  11. According to AAA glass for the XJ/ MJ is not longer made by Mopar or any of the aftermarket glass vendors. I've done some digging myself and haven't found anything yet. Will dig deeper tomorrow. Anyone on CC have their windshield replaced with new glass recently? Hard to believe there is nothing out there for such a long running production vehicle (XJ).
  12. I wouldn't paint. I'd have it powder coated if you really want it to last.
  13. It doesn't fit the bends of the upper radiator support. The RHD fan does.
  14. I had a couple options I thought about other than the switch pods that I ended up going with... An on/off for the winch as a GM high beam floorboard mounted on/off switch with the winch in/out located on the center console or on the power door switch (door mounted) --- for you since you have manual windows and locks, I'd suggest a DRIVER'S SIDE rear door XJ power window switch. It has 5 wires going to the switch, which is exactly what you need and is a momentary switch -- which is also exactly what you need. You'll want to get a snipet at least of the wiring harness that goes to the switch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Rear-Driver-Power-Window-Switch-Door-Handle-/372178555721 This is an example of the part, but it is passenger side. You'll need the driver's side of it.
  15. Not for the 89, as I will be running an XJ brake in the center console on that truck. Possibly the 92 MJ once/ if I convert it back to bucket seats with a console.
  16. Selling driver and passenger side around the window/ frame weatherstripping and inner and outer door wipes. These were installed for about a month back in 2001 on my 89 MJ before I pulled it all apart again. These never saw the outdoors. Mopar new units. $60 for all + shipping. Also, Dorman repro MJ rear parking brake cable. Never used. $15 + shipping.
  17. Wasn't sure where to post this but I saw this listing on ebay yesterday...I had no idea they had made MJ specific center console cupholders. These MJ/ XJ items were sold through Jeep dealers originally (and a similar product is still being sold for XJ's aftermarket). It has the 'delete' for the XJ ebrake. Learn something new every day...
  18. Getting to little things between holidays...Received 1/4" 5.25" speaker spacers for my front door. These are used to shim the speaker out a bit so the full window clears when lowered. Originally these spacers were round, but because of the metal stamping on the inner door I needed to square them off so they would fit properly. I also added clearance depth for the inlaid tweeter by shimming the factory speaker grille with a trimmed out factory speaker grille to mount against the door panel. I trimmed the backside cardboard only area of the door panel so the shimmed speaker would have adequate clearance and would not 'bulge' the door panel when it is installed. Basically I carved out a diameter to clear 5.25". These speaker grilles will need to be mounted with a fender washer and screw instead of the factory push-on clip.
  19. Finished the bits and pieces to my tailgate lock, but didn't have a chance to fully install it after painting. I did test it out prior to however and it works great. As with any security measure, it serves as a deterrent and teamed with a loud alarm siren, my goal is a thief give up before figuring out how to defeat the lock. Basically it's a universal power door lock actuator attached to a custom plate. The plate sits behind the tailgate handle (between the handle and the gate itself), and the actuator is tied to my power door lock system. When 'locked' the actuator rod goes through a hole I drilled on the side of the handle. I had a 'test actuator' that I actually tried to destroy for some time lifting the handle up and down hard to break it-- and no dice, it did what I was hoping-- didn't budge or show any signs of distortion or damage. Here's some photo's of the components...
  20. Had an hour or so today to finish shaping the overhead console. I pulled the headliner out of the truck to reference the shape as I sanded away on the plastic. Came out well and I'll be covering it, the headliner, and the visors before I put it back in — factory gray color. Also completed the new transmission cover-plate using an AW4 column shift plate (thanks MeanLemons) that gave me an opportunity to drill a simple 4" round hole in it that's perfect for my Hurst 5-speed shifter to fit into.
  21. It'll be a chore to upgrade to power seats '-86-'94 style seats. The '95+ seats as mentioned power to manual is easy. It's just a seat track swap, though you will need to adapt the seat track/ floorboard to accomodate the newer style seats. For what it's worth, the older bucket seats are a hell of a lot more comfortable than the newer ones. I daily drive an '01 XJ with heated leather seats and they are no where near as comfortable to me as the older XJ/ MJ bucket seats.
  22. Didn't accomplish a whole lot on the MJ this weekend other than kicking off some projects. I started the tear-down and write up on the full window upgrade as it seemed a few were curious to see it done. Pulled everything out of the doors and cleaned them up. POR-15'd the interior floor board over the seam sealer entirely yesterday, then primered it today in preparation for factory color paint and clearcoat. Also started a new overhead console for the MJ. I short-cutted it years back when I first got the truck with a stubby console. Never really liked it, but it had the temp and compass that I was going for. Finally getting around to a full overhead console from a very sanded and cut down XJ console from that era, teamed with an '84 Chry-co minivan sourced end cap. Lots more to do on this...
  23. Snapped a couple pics of the main conversion parts... The 2" x 6" adapter plates I made...the smaller holes with the nuts on the backside fasten to the Beijing regulator and the larger holes to the US glass. Next is what mounts into the glass and is sandwiched by the bolts. The 97+ XJ uses what is on the left to mount the regulator to the glass (a metric bolt), the older XJ's use this torx bolt which is what I will be mounting into the adapter plate. I chose this bolt because it has a more secure mount into the plate (look close at the photo of the bolt on its side...there's a lip on it). And finally there are photos of the Beijing regulator. This is a single side regulator that I took front and back side photos of.
  24. New Tokico rear shocks. Have always run tokico on my factory height vehicles. Best handling by far in my opinion. $70 for the pair + shipping. 91/ 92 MJ column shift gauge cluster. 166K. $25 + shipping.
  • Create New...