Gojira94

Looking at the back of the new connector on the new motor, where the wires from the motor go into the connector, if these are the colors: ___________ | X 2 3 | |_4__5__6__| Then: New motor/function/old connector color: X (no pin/ no wire) 2 White - Park - goes to Gray wire of old connector 3 Red - Switched 12V - goes to Blue wire of old connector 4 Yellow - High - goes to Red Wire of old connector 5 Green - Low - goes to White wire of old connector 6 Black - Ground - goes to Black wire of old connector

It's going to take a while to gather everything I'll need to do this. I'm guessing it'll take 6-9 months to gather it all and be ready to do the install. I've chosen to do a hybrid setup, using Renix-era inside parts, aside from the evaporator itself. Under the hood, I'm opting for a 94-96 R134a native setup. I don't like the 97-01 setup that uses stamped metal clips to hold the lines together at the condenser, no thanks. And 87-90 to me looks cluttered and the hoses and parts are hard to come by from what I've seen in discussions here. My engine control harness is from 1990 and it has the pins for A/C. My engine harness is from something else and does not have the diode module, A/C clutch relay, clutch feed or pressure switch connectors. I can make all that from parts cut from an 87-90 in the boneyard, or buy the whole harness at the boneyard for about $60 and recondition it. I have the 91-98 compressor mounting bracket, my alternator is sitting on it right now. I'll have to move the alternator down to the original HO location and get a pair of HO alt mounting brackets and shave them for my Durango unit. And a new belt. The remaining parts needed are as follows: HVAC Housing - 87-96 boneyard rehab Temperature Control Panel for A/C equipped car - 87-96 boneyard rehab A/C Dash Harness - 87-90 boneyard rehab A/C Thermostat Control Switch on HVAC box - 87-90 boneyard grab or new Crown 56002688 from Quadratec.com Evaporator - new 1994-96 Evaporator drain tube - 87-96 boneyard rehab Expansion Valve - new 1994-96 Low Pressure Cutoff Switch on drier - new 1994-96 Receiver drier - new 1994-96 Compressor to condenser hose - new 1994-96 Low Side TxV to compressor hose - new 1994-96 Condenser to drier hose - new 1994-96 Drier to evaporator hose - unobtanium, acquire a used 1994-96 and have it re-made Compressor - new 1994-96 Condenser - new 1994-96 Condenser to radiator mounting tabs - 87-96 boneyard rehab + new hardware for them I'm going nuts right now because I have a source vehicle located for some of the big items. But there's no way I can get to it until the weekend of August 8th-9th 2026!

For the sake of posterity and documentation, what's printed on that yellow label on the tunnel? Or is that just a business card lol?

That didn't work. No cruise engagement at all. Now set to 10:00 / back to 8:45 / MAX. I need to move some stashed furniture from a move at the coast I helped with, out of the garage, before I can pull it out again...

I spent 3 days working on that spot. I got all the seam sealer out of it and opened the outer cowl layers with a chisel. Worked it with a flat hobby file (tiny), guitar strings and steel brushes. Sprayed the hell out of it with rust converter, primed it. Then filled it to the moon with new 3M seam sealer and worked the layers back together with a brass drift while the sealer was still wet.

Before, I was surprised the EGR was responding in Park just off idle, but there were a lot of other factors in question that needed to be addressed first. EGR should be operating in a transient part throttle state, in gear, car moving. I think what you see now is normal EGR operation. EGR valves are very simple mechanical devices. The parts on cars with EFI, that tell them what to do and when, sometimes more complicated.

Absolutely no hurry whatsoever. Let’s get you all the information possible and answer all questions first

Thank you

Sad end to this story... My 23yo and 14yo daughters are ok. The car did its job and kept them safe. But "Valerie" is no more. My oldest daughter got married in April and traded the other wagon for something newer she likes a lot. So no more P1 Volvos in the stable. The only Volvo left is the 2010 XC70 3.2 (wife's car).

Of course you're right - that this is minimum set speed as well. Had myself some tunnel-vision chasing this through every component for several days. So it's both minimum set speed and the lowest speed resume will work. i.e. if you were cruising at 65 and braked and slowed to 20, you'd have to get above the minimum speed before the resume button would be able to pull you back all the way to 65.

Good on ya for pressing onward. A lot of folks don't have the patience to go through it all, ask for help/ advice when needed and would have given up.

Looks good. Nicely done.

Just stuff I had lying around. Same diameter as the main evap tube from the canister.

I got one of those open box for 1/2 price. I popped a hole and grommet n it and connected it. Used a piece of 45* rubber hose and a short piece of tube to make the connection on the intake pipe due to the angle.

Platinum. Significantly higher resistance than copper. I'd suggest replacing those (I'm sorry!) with Champion 404/RN12YC (about $6 each). The platinum plugs are not a good match for your wires.