Gojira94

Of course you're right - that this is minimum set speed as well. Had myself some tunnel-vision chasing this through every component for several days. So it's both minimum set speed and the lowest speed resume will work. i.e. if you were cruising at 65 and braked and slowed to 20, you'd have to get above the minimum speed before the resume button would be able to pull you back all the way to 65.

Good on ya for pressing onward. A lot of folks don't have the patience to go through it all, ask for help/ advice when needed and would have given up.

Looks good. Nicely done.

Just stuff I had lying around. Same diameter as the main evap tube from the canister.

I got one of those open box for 1/2 price. I popped a hole and grommet n it and connected it. Used a piece of 45* rubber hose and a short piece of tube to make the connection on the intake pipe due to the angle.

Platinum. Significantly higher resistance than copper. I'd suggest replacing those (I'm sorry!) with Champion 404/RN12YC (about $6 each). The platinum plugs are not a good match for your wires.

Old plugs and new plugs are copper, right? No platinum, not iridium (especially) or anything else but copper Champion RN12YC at .035" gap?

Your current wires look like the same NGK wires I'm running. 500 ohms or less per foot is very good. You don't want higher resistance wires, no. And for misting the wires while running, no soap needed. That process is meant to find damage to wires from contact with hot things, damage not visible to the naked eye. Current moving across high resistance looks for shortcuts to ground, so low resistance/ internally well-shielded wires is what you want.

Green 1974 Volvo 145DL. The beginning of my relationship with Volvos hahaha. I cried when it got used as a trade in for my step-sister’s new 1990 Accord Coupe. They got $100 for it. Failing transmission and Flintstone power with only 247,000 miles on the clock. I’d love to have another one for a stealth turbo LS swap.

"Beavis, this is the coolest thing I have ever seen..."

Dana manual says to set cruise around 45MPH, brake and slow to about 18MPH. Then press and hold resume/accel and manually accelerate slowly until the gas pedal starts to pull away under your foot, accelerating back to previously set speed on its own. The speed at which that happens is the "Low Speed."

I found this pdf guide for Dana cruise equipped motor homes. I think it refers the slightly older purple regulators but they work the same aside from a wire you cut for manual trans applications. A good read and goes into more detail than the 88 electrical manual pdf I have a copy of. DANA CRUISE CONTROL TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.pdf

Absolutely, hang on to it.

Regulator adjustments pots on my regulator ohm out as follows, will vary some with other regulators: A - Centering Adjustment MIN = 323 ohms MAX = 4150 ohms 10:00 = 1500 ohms (20.83%) B - Low Speed Adjustment MIN = 108 ohms MAX = 3975 ohms 10:00 = 1096 ohms (20.83%) C - Sensitivity Adjustment MIN = 1.9 ohms MAX = 21,200 ohms (100%) 12:00 = 11,260 ohms (50%) I test drove with the following settings: A - 2236.5 ohms (about 11:45) B - 90 ohms (about 8:45) C - 10,600 ohms (about 11:45) Cruise works but it's going to need some adjustments, going to the recommended 10:00 / 10:00 / MAX for A, B, C. Centering was too high, as it set and just kept slowly pulling speed higher and higher. I read some Dana documentation and found out Low Speed adjustment is NOT the minimum speed at which you can 'Set' cruise. It's the minimum speed at which 'Resume/Accel' will begin to resume after a brake or clutch switch is activated, with the cruise switch still set to 'On.'

Beautiful truck, I love the color combination and the original 10-slot grille. Well deserved, congratulations!