Gojira94

That didn't work. No cruise engagement at all. Now set to 10:00 / back to 8:45 / MAX. I need to move some stashed furniture from a move at the coast I helped with, out of the garage, before I can pull it out again...

I spent 3 days working on that spot. I got all the seam sealer out of it and opened the outer cowl layers with a chisel. Worked it with a flat hobby file (tiny), guitar strings and steel brushes. Sprayed the hell out of it with rust converter, primed it. Then filled it to the moon with new 3M seam sealer and worked the layers back together with a brass drift while the sealer was still wet.

Before, I was surprised the EGR was responding in Park just off idle, but there were a lot of other factors in question that needed to be addressed first. EGR should be operating in a transient part throttle state, in gear, car moving. I think what you see now is normal EGR operation. EGR valves are very simple mechanical devices. The parts on cars with EFI, that tell them what to do and when, sometimes more complicated.

Absolutely no hurry whatsoever. Let’s get you all the information possible and answer all questions first

Thank you

Sad end to this story... My 23yo and 14yo daughters are ok. The car did its job and kept them safe. But "Valerie" is no more. My oldest daughter got married in April and traded the other wagon for something newer she likes a lot. So no more P1 Volvos in the stable. The only Volvo left is the 2010 XC70 3.2 (wife's car).

Of course you're right - that this is minimum set speed as well. Had myself some tunnel-vision chasing this through every component for several days. So it's both minimum set speed and the lowest speed resume will work. i.e. if you were cruising at 65 and braked and slowed to 20, you'd have to get above the minimum speed before the resume button would be able to pull you back all the way to 65.

Good on ya for pressing onward. A lot of folks don't have the patience to go through it all, ask for help/ advice when needed and would have given up.

Looks good. Nicely done.

Just stuff I had lying around. Same diameter as the main evap tube from the canister.

I got one of those open box for 1/2 price. I popped a hole and grommet n it and connected it. Used a piece of 45* rubber hose and a short piece of tube to make the connection on the intake pipe due to the angle.

Platinum. Significantly higher resistance than copper. I'd suggest replacing those (I'm sorry!) with Champion 404/RN12YC (about $6 each). The platinum plugs are not a good match for your wires.

Old plugs and new plugs are copper, right? No platinum, not iridium (especially) or anything else but copper Champion RN12YC at .035" gap?

Your current wires look like the same NGK wires I'm running. 500 ohms or less per foot is very good. You don't want higher resistance wires, no. And for misting the wires while running, no soap needed. That process is meant to find damage to wires from contact with hot things, damage not visible to the naked eye. Current moving across high resistance looks for shortcuts to ground, so low resistance/ internally well-shielded wires is what you want.

Green 1974 Volvo 145DL. The beginning of my relationship with Volvos hahaha. I cried when it got used as a trade in for my step-sister’s new 1990 Accord Coupe. They got $100 for it. Failing transmission and Flintstone power with only 247,000 miles on the clock. I’d love to have another one for a stealth turbo LS swap.