Gojira94

That didn't work. No cruise engagement at all. Now set to 10:00 / back to 8:45 / MAX. I need to move some stashed furniture from a move at the coast I helped with, out of the garage, before I can pull it out again...

I spent 3 days working on that spot. I got all the seam sealer out of it and opened the outer cowl layers with a chisel. Worked it with a flat hobby file (tiny), guitar strings and steel brushes. Sprayed the hell out of it with rust converter, primed it. Then filled it to the moon with new 3M seam sealer and worked the layers back together with a brass drift while the sealer was still wet.

Before, I was surprised the EGR was responding in Park just off idle, but there were a lot of other factors in question that needed to be addressed first. EGR should be operating in a transient part throttle state, in gear, car moving. I think what you see now is normal EGR operation. EGR valves are very simple mechanical devices. The parts on cars with EFI, that tell them what to do and when, sometimes more complicated.

Absolutely no hurry whatsoever. Let’s get you all the information possible and answer all questions first

Thank you

Sad end to this story... My 23yo and 14yo daughters are ok. The car did its job and kept them safe. But "Valerie" is no more. My oldest daughter got married in April and traded the other wagon for something newer she likes a lot. So no more P1 Volvos in the stable. The only Volvo left is the 2010 XC70 3.2 (wife's car).

Of course you're right - that this is minimum set speed as well. Had myself some tunnel-vision chasing this through every component for several days. So it's both minimum set speed and the lowest speed resume will work. i.e. if you were cruising at 65 and braked and slowed to 20, you'd have to get above the minimum speed before the resume button would be able to pull you back all the way to 65.

Good on ya for pressing onward. A lot of folks don't have the patience to go through it all, ask for help/ advice when needed and would have given up.

Looks good. Nicely done.

Just stuff I had lying around. Same diameter as the main evap tube from the canister.

I got one of those open box for 1/2 price. I popped a hole and grommet n it and connected it. Used a piece of 45* rubber hose and a short piece of tube to make the connection on the intake pipe due to the angle.

Platinum. Significantly higher resistance than copper. I'd suggest replacing those (I'm sorry!) with Champion 404/RN12YC (about $6 each). The platinum plugs are not a good match for your wires.

Old plugs and new plugs are copper, right? No platinum, not iridium (especially) or anything else but copper Champion RN12YC at .035" gap?

Your current wires look like the same NGK wires I'm running. 500 ohms or less per foot is very good. You don't want higher resistance wires, no. And for misting the wires while running, no soap needed. That process is meant to find damage to wires from contact with hot things, damage not visible to the naked eye. Current moving across high resistance looks for shortcuts to ground, so low resistance/ internally well-shielded wires is what you want.

Green 1974 Volvo 145DL. The beginning of my relationship with Volvos hahaha. I cried when it got used as a trade in for my step-sister’s new 1990 Accord Coupe. They got $100 for it. Failing transmission and Flintstone power with only 247,000 miles on the clock. I’d love to have another one for a stealth turbo LS swap.

"Beavis, this is the coolest thing I have ever seen..."

Dana manual says to set cruise around 45MPH, brake and slow to about 18MPH. Then press and hold resume/accel and manually accelerate slowly until the gas pedal starts to pull away under your foot, accelerating back to previously set speed on its own. The speed at which that happens is the "Low Speed."

I found this pdf guide for Dana cruise equipped motor homes. I think it refers the slightly older purple regulators but they work the same aside from a wire you cut for manual trans applications. A good read and goes into more detail than the 88 electrical manual pdf I have a copy of. DANA CRUISE CONTROL TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.pdf

Absolutely, hang on to it.

Regulator adjustments pots on my regulator ohm out as follows, will vary some with other regulators: A - Centering Adjustment MIN = 323 ohms MAX = 4150 ohms 10:00 = 1500 ohms (20.83%) B - Low Speed Adjustment MIN = 108 ohms MAX = 3975 ohms 10:00 = 1096 ohms (20.83%) C - Sensitivity Adjustment MIN = 1.9 ohms MAX = 21,200 ohms (100%) 12:00 = 11,260 ohms (50%) I test drove with the following settings: A - 2236.5 ohms (about 11:45) B - 90 ohms (about 8:45) C - 10,600 ohms (about 11:45) Cruise works but it's going to need some adjustments, going to the recommended 10:00 / 10:00 / MAX for A, B, C. Centering was too high, as it set and just kept slowly pulling speed higher and higher. I read some Dana documentation and found out Low Speed adjustment is NOT the minimum speed at which you can 'Set' cruise. It's the minimum speed at which 'Resume/Accel' will begin to resume after a brake or clutch switch is activated, with the cruise switch still set to 'On.'

Beautiful truck, I love the color combination and the original 10-slot grille. Well deserved, congratulations!

More low-hanging fruit - clean the heck out of the grounds at the oil dipstick brace mounting bolt (G105). That's where the injectors all get ground. All 6 injectors' grounds are spliced together and go to that ground point. It's also possible there's some wire chafing in the injector section of the harness along the driver's side of the valve cover.

You might try setting to knock count and give it steady throttle open to about half - not slow, not fast blip. When it stumbles, see if you get knock. If an injector or two are cutting out or weak, those cylinders will momentarily go lean and misfire.

Base fuel curve is 128, a starting point that assumes everything is healthy. The STFT will be the first thing it tries to adjust. If STFT stays high or low long enough it will move to LTFT to 'accommodate' conditions that indicate a minor/ manageable issue with fuel/air ratio. I don't think you've had enough runtime since the last battery reset to effect any change in that yet. There is a monitor in the REM that shows loop state - does it go into and out of closed or go into closed at all? Just re-read your pdf. So it is able to achieve closed loop in idle...

I updated the thread in the Pub on the cruise tester tool. I'm using a GM brake switch and I wired it wrong. My gut told me the brake switch was going to be at the heart of the issue before I started troubleshooting. Not for the reasons I thought, but I think I solved it and proved out the rest of the parts along the way. The regulator could still be bad. Just need a test drive as soon as I can manage it.