Gojira94

Platinum. Significantly higher resistance than copper. I'd suggest replacing those (I'm sorry!) with Champion 404/RN12YC (about $6 each). The platinum plugs are not a good match for your wires.

Old plugs and new plugs are copper, right? No platinum, not iridium (especially) or anything else but copper Champion RN12YC at .035" gap?

Your current wires look like the same NGK wires I'm running. 500 ohms or less per foot is very good. You don't want higher resistance wires, no. And for misting the wires while running, no soap needed. That process is meant to find damage to wires from contact with hot things, damage not visible to the naked eye. Current moving across high resistance looks for shortcuts to ground, so low resistance/ internally well-shielded wires is what you want.

Green 1974 Volvo 145DL. The beginning of my relationship with Volvos hahaha. I cried when it got used as a trade in for my step-sister’s new 1990 Accord Coupe. They got $100 for it. Failing transmission and Flintstone power with only 247,000 miles on the clock. I’d love to have another one for a stealth turbo LS swap.

"Beavis, this is the coolest thing I have ever seen..."

Dana manual says to set cruise around 45MPH, brake and slow to about 18MPH. Then press and hold resume/accel and manually accelerate slowly until the gas pedal starts to pull away under your foot, accelerating back to previously set speed on its own. The speed at which that happens is the "Low Speed."

I found this pdf guide for Dana cruise equipped motor homes. I think it refers the slightly older purple regulators but they work the same aside from a wire you cut for manual trans applications. A good read and goes into more detail than the 88 electrical manual pdf I have a copy of. DANA CRUISE CONTROL TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE.pdf

Absolutely, hang on to it.

Regulator adjustments pots on my regulator ohm out as follows, will vary some with other regulators: A - Centering Adjustment MIN = 323 ohms MAX = 4150 ohms 10:00 = 1500 ohms (20.83%) B - Low Speed Adjustment MIN = 108 ohms MAX = 3975 ohms 10:00 = 1096 ohms (20.83%) C - Sensitivity Adjustment MIN = 1.9 ohms MAX = 21,200 ohms (100%) 12:00 = 11,260 ohms (50%) I test drove with the following settings: A - 2236.5 ohms (about 11:45) B - 90 ohms (about 8:45) C - 10,600 ohms (about 11:45) Cruise works but it's going to need some adjustments, going to the recommended 10:00 / 10:00 / MAX for A, B, C. Centering was too high, as it set and just kept slowly pulling speed higher and higher. I read some Dana documentation and found out Low Speed adjustment is NOT the minimum speed at which you can 'Set' cruise. It's the minimum speed at which 'Resume/Accel' will begin to resume after a brake or clutch switch is activated, with the cruise switch still set to 'On.'

Beautiful truck, I love the color combination and the original 10-slot grille. Well deserved, congratulations!

More low-hanging fruit - clean the heck out of the grounds at the oil dipstick brace mounting bolt (G105). That's where the injectors all get ground. All 6 injectors' grounds are spliced together and go to that ground point. It's also possible there's some wire chafing in the injector section of the harness along the driver's side of the valve cover.

You might try setting to knock count and give it steady throttle open to about half - not slow, not fast blip. When it stumbles, see if you get knock. If an injector or two are cutting out or weak, those cylinders will momentarily go lean and misfire.

Base fuel curve is 128, a starting point that assumes everything is healthy. The STFT will be the first thing it tries to adjust. If STFT stays high or low long enough it will move to LTFT to 'accommodate' conditions that indicate a minor/ manageable issue with fuel/air ratio. I don't think you've had enough runtime since the last battery reset to effect any change in that yet. There is a monitor in the REM that shows loop state - does it go into and out of closed or go into closed at all? Just re-read your pdf. So it is able to achieve closed loop in idle...

I updated the thread in the Pub on the cruise tester tool. I'm using a GM brake switch and I wired it wrong. My gut told me the brake switch was going to be at the heart of the issue before I started troubleshooting. Not for the reasons I thought, but I think I solved it and proved out the rest of the parts along the way. The regulator could still be bad. Just need a test drive as soon as I can manage it.

In my video, lamp 4 should not be on at KOEO, and 2 should not go out when the brake pedal is pressed. My issue was I'd wired the GM brake switch incorrectly. I'd bridged the hots for both pairs of pins, switching the ground between brake and cruise. I misread the electrical manual diagram thinking I needed to cut power to the cruise system when brake was applied. Kind of embarrassing I expected this to work lol. Epiphany came when I finally dug out the brake switch that came from the donor vehicle and I dope slapped myself. Meanwhile I'd already enjoyed testing and fiddling with the servo internals. The throttle position feedback input is adjustable. Before adjustment it read 670 ohms at throttle closed and max of 3780. I set it to the middle of the prescribed range of 280-430 ohms at throttle closed. The charge and vent valves/ solenoids can be tested with a 12V source (lawn tractor battery for me) and a bit of vacuum hose to check flow. I was happy to find both work perfectly and don't leak.

I agree that the O2 is working, which is good. The issue as I see it is that it should read very rich, given what's been observed with the plugs, if there is no leak at/ in the exhaust manifold. A (truly) rich condition being read as stoichiometric, more or less, says that the O2 is asking for more fuel to make itself happy because it sees a (false) lean condition. Short and long term fuel trims will almost certainly be very high as proof of that.

https://nickintimedesign.com/rem-gauge-readouts/ We'll want to see MAP, VAC, ºFWT, VLT (system voltage while running), TPS at idle, vO2 / mVo, A/F, vHT, ST, LT, SYN, maybe a few more.

Yep, your list looks good. I think you'll be pleased with it when you're done.

I take that back. I had no idea you could put one behind a TDI.

10-4. Then I'd question doing much more than a standard rebuild of the 60E with a few minor strength upgrades, since you won't be able to use it behind that VW motor.

When you said TDI did you mean TBI, like GM throttle body injection 4.3 swap? I read TDI and thought a diesel swap.

You’re using the original L32’s PCM to run the 60E? The torque converter clutch lockup apply strategy and shifting use one less solenoid than 95 & up. 94 had its own torque converter clutch frictions. 95 added a 4th (PWM) solenoid for TCC apply and had different converter clutch frictions to stand up to the pulse width modulation TCC lockup. 96 and up entirely different TCC apply strategy again and a removable bellhousing. A working TCC lockup apply strategy is a must or you’ll roast the trans with the extra heat from near constant slippage. An apply servo upgrade (big round plug-looking thing on the passenger side) isn’t expensive. For a 160BHP 3.4L engine you don’t need a 5-pinion planetary or much of anything else. Redline clutches and Kolene steels are the go-to for rebuilds and not a lot more expensive. if you’ve retained the 12-pin OBD1 port, here’s your scan/ monitor/ diag tool for that L32/ 60E combo: https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/v6-tech-22/scan9495-v6-obd1-utility-3-4l-f-cars-875018/

Advance has one they say is an updated parallel flow design (better performance with R-134a than an old plate style for R-12). Carquest Premium 4114.

Despite the crunchy feel of pots A and B, they seem to work... Potentiometer readings and current settings: A - Centering Adjustment MIN = 323 Ohms MAX = 4150 Ohms "10:00" = 1500 Ohms Set to 2236 Ohms (50%, about "12:00") B - Cruise Enable Speed MIN - 1.8 Ohms MAX = 3975 Ohms "10:00" = 1126 Ohms Set to 90 Ohms (about "8:45") for next test drive C - Sensitivity Adjustment MIN = 1.9 Ohms MAX = 21,200 Ohms Set to 10,600 Ohms (50%, about "12:00") All electrical tests with meter and AM PC-1-R tool show good at cruise and brake switches. Next is servo tests with engine running/ AM PC-1-R tool.

70-72 C3 Corvette spotted on a rollback leaving Coast Guard Rd in Emerald Isle, NC 06-02-26. Can't determine exact year, maybe someone else can. Wheels look like period Cragar, not 100% on that either lol. I couldn't see the hood to help identify the engine but possibilities are LT-1 350, 454 (1st year was 1970), 427. I'd expect side pipes if a big block but IDK. Really exciting to see, looked like it had been in a garage for a few years, rear bumper missing.