Gojira94

Right, with the horn relay removed the horn slip ring and ‘switch’ are out of the equation so there’s something else in the mix that’s shorted. The headlamp delay module essentially functions as a relay itself. Headlight switch pin H ties to headlamp delay module pin 6 and high beam select pin C. Headlight switch pin R goes to the chime module. Headlamp delay module pin 8 goes to the chime module pin A4. If 91-92 also had direct loading of the headlight switch like 84-90 the headlight switch is also in question and deserves a look.

Have you tried pulling the headlamp delay module to see if it stops blowing the fuse? It also looks like there is some common wiring between headlamp delay module and chime module. You might try pulling the headlamp delay and chime modules. If the fuse stops blowing and the horn works, add the modules back one at a time and see if the fuse blows again.

Not too common in the boneyards these days. Mid-90s 960 would be one. Cruiser54 used to mention Trevor at Skankfoot Racing for reconditioned flow-matched sets. Injectorrehab.com is one I’ve dealt with before, they do the same and include a flow report card. Hard part is the 746 is in short supply these days, but these might be the ones: https://injector-rehab.com/product/87-98-jeep-4-0-upgrade-19lb-set-6-copy/

Those Neon injectors are Bosch 0280155703 and flow about 242cc/min. And that’s too much by quite a bit. Stock Renix or early HO running 31-39psi run best with injectors between 196-220cc/min. The Bosch injector from Volvo 2.4 & 2.9L motors is 0280155746 and flows 208cc/min. (Flow rates are based on 3 Bar/ 43.5psi)

That pic clearly shows whatever manufacturer is supplying the brands he’s bought thus far are installing axle bushings in the body side of the arms.

Both halves of the 91-98 XJ alternator bracket need to be clearanced, yes. The mounting hole spacing on the Denso style alternators is the same; 91-98 XJ, 93-98 ZJ and 01-03 Durango. There should be adequate room between alternator case and frame rail on the passenger side, as the mounting holes in that location are basically at 6 and 12.

Relay has power and ground, so that's good at C175 relay pins 85 & 86, and C102 pins 2 and 5 (10-way connector behind left headlight). (Convenient time to check/ clean C102 pins for good measure) C102 pin 6 should read hot at all times. Relay C175/ pin 87 should send 12V to C370 & C371 pin B with the headlights and fog light switch on. A single splice feeds power from relay pin 87 to both fog lamps on their pin B. Check incoming power on pin B A single splice provides ground for both fog lamps on their pin A. Check continuity from C370 & C371 pin A to body ground G103 in the inner LH fender panel.

I’d almost kill for one of the left side fog/cargo covers. If you run across that box some time…

Not to throw more to consider into the mix, but the timing chain guide might be worn out and adding some of the noise. Like not really the problem, of course, but adding the mix to confuse and possibly misdirect.

Yep.

I'm going to concur that something's hurt that's not easily remedied. If you were my neighbor I'd be over in a minute... The part that sounds to you like a misfire and lifter chatter: You might want to pull the valve cover off and look for a loose rocker arm (nut is tight but there's slack at the rocker tip/ pushrod). That would be an immediate giveaway that you might have a wiped cam lobe/ lifter. Any debris from that would quickly find its way to the bearings.

Not to nose this thread into the weeds, but wasn’t there someone at some point on or associated with this forum that was making switch panel overlays? Be nice to be able to put together panels that have the OE appearance.

No need to pull the dash cluster. The lower panel, maybe, but I've managed to do it with it in place though its a bit more difficult. If you do remove the lower panel, there are visible screws holding it, plus one behind the ash tray. On the very ends, there is one at each end going straight up as well.

Try pulling the headlamp switch and testing for continuity from B2 to R with the switch in the park/ running lights position and the headlamps on position. I bet you get OL at the park position.

The physical compatibility and arrangements for this has been well covered but I wanted mostly to cover the electrical part of the swap. And if you do it, you may have all lights pulsing at idle. I did, and here's how I fixed it, thanks to one of Nick's friends... For stock alternator location, passenger side of engine block: There are plenty of 5.9L Durango alternator swap guides out there, mostly for 91 and up. Those don't require a bracketry change, as the alternator case mounting holes are the same, just a larger case. Those require some shaving and cutting to accommodate the larger case, and that's well covered on the internet. For 87-90 Renix Jeeps equipped with a CS-130 case alternator, the brackets are entirely incompatible. This will require swapping to the 91-98 alternator brackets and likely a belt change. For top mount relocation, on non-A/C equipped jeeps: 87-90 will require swapping to a later 91-98 A/C compressor mounting bracket for most top mount conversions. No one I've seen makes anything to mount the later alternators on a Renix A/C bracket. 91-92 MJ & 91-98 XJ already have the later A/C bracket, ready to go. I got a USA-made top mount alternator adapter kit from SpeedShop505, but they're not making this as of Feb. 2026. Plenty of other copies out there. Belt change is required. =========================================================== Larger Images of Electrical Diagrams here: ---> Durango Alt Wiring Electrical: From this (p.24 1988 Electrical Manual): To this: Complete external voltage regulator harness example: Harness Explanation: All lights pulsing at idle - common issue when doing this swap! The yellow field wire on the original alternator connector is usually the indicated switched 12V source. However, it comes all the way from the ignition switch, through Splice D, through bulkhead C100, through Splice R if you have A/C, through Splice E, through connector C335, and finally to C205 at the alternator. This is a run of about 10-11 feet! Plenty of noise and voltage drop opportunities. @NickInTimeFilms and a buddy of his did this swap in a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUcMPrCoRiI This 89 XJ already has the 91-98 A/C compressor bracket due to a previous HO-era A/C swap, and they're ditching that in the video, but that's not the point. The wiring is (11:24 - 18:12). In the comments someone asked if the lights pulsed at idle, and @tylermus replied that he'd added a relay next to the battery to eliminate the issue. So that's why I did this, and it worked great. There also needs to be a ground wire from the regulator body to body ground. I added a large ground on the passenger side to mirror the one on the driver's side fender well (G106), so I tied into that. The 20A fuse between the relay and battery is optional, I did without. I unplugged C335 and tucked away the side for the alternator harness. Rather than cut anything, I headed to the local boneyard looking for 88-94 Chevy TBI V8 trucks. It's the brown wire connector you unplug when setting the distributor base timing on those trucks. On the firewall under the PDC cover if the truck still has it. I got the Field wire 1&2 connector from a random Jeep/ Chrysler vehicle a while back, don't recall exactly which (easy to find). External Regulator kit is from Alternator Man / alternatorparts.com, kit ERCK. Setup and explanation video from the Alternator Man himself here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utXjxwPAcHk ========================================================= One more note: if you have a "Standard"/ dummy instrument cluster, you'll need to figure out how to wire the Lamp wire. I'll look into it and update this thread with how-to when I have time. UPDATE: I'm 90+% certain this is correct for trucks with the "Standard"/ indicator light cluster.

Thanks! I'm a little jealous you have 2 MJs lol. They've both come a long way. Thank you, sir!

I'm running a KoyoRad A1193. Autozone boxes it under their Duralast brand as A1193. It has the bung for the Renix temp switch. KoyoRad is a Japanese company, and it operates its own plants in China and Indonesia. Box says China but it's better quality than average. And getting it through a parts house with thousands of stores, with "limited Lifetime Warranty" is a generally safe bet if it fails. @Eagle_SX4 is right, though. You can still get genuine Mopar HO era switches for the thermostat housing and make a pretty straightforward wiring change. True Mopar versions of the Renix temp switch are nonexistent, though SMP, Wells and others make versions of it for parts house distribution under their own brands. I'm running a Duralast SW594 (Wells part) Renix switch and it closes at 195-200*F.

It wouldn't be complete without your work! Thanks! I saw it and had to have it, for reasons in the build thread... I'd say you're way ahead in some aspects. Wish I had your paint and welding skills!

So unfortunately one quick glance at the rod on the clutch master with the pedal all the way down tells me that there's not enough room for a coupling nut without raising the pedal height a crazy amount. So I'm going to try to 'shim' the plunger/ rod tip arrangement to eliminate all but about .5mm slack. We'll see how that goes. I am tempted to just pull the trigger on the LuK master and return the parts house master, but I do want to see if this will work...

Here's another of those 318 1968 GT500KR. Pic is from 1999, my associate Ward "The Madman" Madsen is pulling it into the service bay. We worked at Goodyear Certified Auto Service Center #2356 next to Crabtree Valley Mall in Raleigh, NC. It's (still) owned by a rich (now retired) dentist. We were correcting an issue with the left leaf spring to level the rear stance. There was a lot of talent in that shop before Goodyear did away with it all and went "Just Tires."

Jeff at http://strokedjeep.com/ might be able to redo throttle shaft bushings/ bearings/ seals/ whatever on your BBK unit. If anyone can do it, he can.

TLDR... I'm using a parts house version of the later master with .699" bore vs .688" on the earlier BA5/10, and AX15 with CSC. It works fine with a CSC AX15. However, I'm seeing some symptoms that have been widely reported with difficulty getting into 1st and reverse "when warmed up." Some swear by the LuK LMC206 as fixing the issue, but I have some suspicions as to why. Here's what I see going on with the parts house unit: the pushrod has a fair amount of slack between its retainer under the circlip to the piston's cup, so about 3/16" of pedal travel is lost before the plunger moves, and the piston is just a hair short of full travel moving fluid. My guess is the LMC206 has less slack in it. Masters from O'Reilly and Autozone are the same. Advance seems to have quit carrying a house brand, only offers the LMC206. Napa re-boxes and sells the LMC206 as NCF 72206. O'Reilly and Autozone master are etched with either "2055 18099" or "2055 19199." These are the ones in question... The fix: cut and thread the pushrod for a coupling nut. And keep that adjustable pushrod for re-use regardless of future master changes. Nice to be able to adjust clutch engagement as the disc wears away, too. I also just did clutch hydraulics on my 2003 Accord. It has an adjustable rod to dial in the correct length. I wish AMC and Chrysler had made them that way originally. I'm also considering adding a PEEK M2 washer between the pushrod and piston for good measure. I have plenty other things to work on with my rig at the moment but I'm going to see if my neighbor has a left hand thread die set and try this at the earliest opportunity. /end rant

Thanks! It almost doesn’t feel real yet. I took another short trip to the grocery store gas station in front of my neighborhood (no plate, no registration). Put $20 in it. A lot of firsts for me and this MJ are lining up.

I just drove it for the first time ever, around my neighborhood. Running and driving is silky smooth. It's still a ways away from finished. Bugs to work out - the temp and oil pressure gauges are pegged. Oil pressure gauge sweeps at key on, temp does not, both gauges worked fine some months back when I was tuning and making engine running adjustments. No big. Right fender liner still needs to go in, lots of clear coat correction and repair, little things. No tool exists to measure the width of my smile today...

Homebrew toe setup - flip some spare 1/2" - 20 lug nuts around to hold the toe measurement bars with the rotors snug. Angle aluminum tends to be more true than steel angle iron and it's lighter. Frequently check they're level when making adjustments and re-measuring. Shoot for 1/16" less up front for about .5* toe-in. I used a laser angle finder and started with the beam at centerline of the rear tires and moved each side outward equally until I got the measurement I wanted. Then measured center to center on the knuckles and transferred that to the tie rod. Close enough to get it to my buddy's alignment shop.